The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850, by Unknown

Encouraged by the kind welcome which greeted their former efforts to provide a volume worthy the attention of the ladies of the United Kingdom, the Publishers of the Lady's Album of Fancy-Work have issued a similar production for 1850. Solicitous to preserve the favourable consideration so flatteringly accorded, every care has been taken to render the Lady's Album of fancy-Work for 1850 as attractive and useful as possible; no expense has been spared in its artistic illustration, letterpress, and embellishment; and it will be found an elegant ornament in the drawing-room as well as a useful ally at the work-table. The patterns and designs are of the most useful and varied character: specimens are given of each style of work recently invented; and no article either of ornament or use at present in fashion is omitted.

The exercise of the needle has been from time immemorial a favourite occupation with the females of every country; and the allusions to the subject from cotemporary historians and poets evince that this feminine pursuit was regarded with approval and respect. The invention of embroidery is ascribed to the Phrygians; and we also learn from ancient authors, that the Sidonians particularly excelled in this beautiful art of decorative needlework; it must have also made considerable progress in the country soon after the Norman Conquest, from the accounts that are recorded of the robes embroidered in gold and silver, generally worn by persons of rank at that period. The Bayeux Tapestry also remains to us as a lasting trophy of the skill and industry of Queen Matilda and the ladies of her court, and is not more interesting as a historical record than as a specimen of the needlework of the mediæval age. The introduction of knitting into this country is comparatively of modern date; so late as the middle of the sixteenth century. The invention of the art is usually ascribed to the Spaniards; though the Scotch, with some appearance of justice, assert their claims as its originators. Like all inventions, knitting has undergone wonderful improvements since it was first simply used for stocking-making: and the value attached to stockings so made may be judged from the fact, that a pair were deemed a fitting present from one sovereign to another. A pair of knitted hose was amongst the gifts received by that lover of finery, Queen Elizabeth; but no record remains to shew if these were preserved with the three thousand robes which were found after her death in the wardrobe of England's Maiden Queen.

The love for domestic occupations, which is so admirable a trait in the character of our countrywomen, has often been a subject of gratulation; and that female ingenuity and skill may continue to be employed in embellishing the drawing-room, rather than in directing the political intrigues of the salon , must be desired by all interested in the preservation of those domestic attributes which give so pleasing a charm to home, and secure the comfort of all around.

The taste which her Majesty Queen Victoria evinces for feminine pursuits and occupations has naturally exercised considerable influence in preserving habits of industry amongst her female subjects; and to her Majesty's example, and that of the amiable Queen Dowager, may be ascribed that the labours of the English embroideress are now justly appreciated, and her work esteemed as in no respects inferior to the produce of foreign ingenuity.

In expressing their thanks for the patronage extended to the Lady's Album of Fancy-Work for 1849, the Publishers take leave to state that the present Volume contains designs and patterns for various articles in Embroidery, Braid-Work, Crochet, Knitting, Netting, Ribbon-Work, Scagliola, and Indian Ornamental Work; all of which are executed and engraved in a style of unusual superiority. Each pattern is accompanied with plain and explicit directions; and it is hoped that their execution will afford many hours of pleasurable employment to the fair and industrious votaress of the needle.

CONTENTS .

CHAIN-STITCH OPEN CROCHET.—This consists of five or any uneven number of loops attached by a plain stitch to every third stitch of the foundation, and in the succeeding rows to the centre loop of the chain of previous row.

THREE CHAIN CROCHET.—Work a chain of three loops as in chain-stitch open crochet.

DOUBLE CROCHET.—Work as follows: having made a chain, pass the needle through the first loop on the chain, draw the cotton through the loop, there will now be two loops on the needle, through these draw the cotton.

SINGLE CROCHET.—Insert the needle in the loops, and draw the cotton through this loop and that on the needle.

RIBBED CROCHET.—This is worked in a similar manner to double crochet, only that the under loop of the previous row is taken, and it is done in rows to and fro.

LONG STITCH.—Twist the cotton round the needle, pass it through the loop, draw the cotton through the first two loops on the needle, then catch the cotton again and draw it through the next two loops; there will be one loop left on the needle.

DOUBLE LONG STITCH.—This resembles long stitch, excepting that the cotton is twisted twice round the needle.

SINGLE OPEN CROCHET.—This is a succession of long stitches, with a chain-stitch between each, missing one stitch of the foundation; in the succeeding rows the long stitch is worked between the two long stitches of the preceding rows.

DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.—This consists of two long stitches, then two chain-stitches; or it may be varied by making one long stitch, two chain-stitches, missing the same number of stitches in foundation as there are chain-stitches.

TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.—Work three long stitches, then three chain, missing three of the foundation.

VANDYKE OPEN CROCHET.—Work three long stitches into one of the foundation, make one chain-stitch, miss three of the foundation; repeat. In the next and following rows the long stitches are worked in the chain-stitch.

The various elegant designs for handkerchiefs, jupons, shirts, &c. are worked in raised satin stitch. The material used is French working-cotton; numbers 100 or 120 will be found suitable for most purposes, but this must be regulated by the quality of the cambric. Handkerchiefs embroidered in colours continue to be extremely fashionable; the patterns in the Lady's Album are of the most novel description, and quite suitable for this style of work. The names and initial letters are worked in satin-stitch, sewing over the lines.

Materials—Black satin; six shades of crimson, five shades of yellow, three shades of puce, two shades of scarlet, three shades of yellow-greens, three shades of blue-greens, and two shades of brown embroidery silk, or of chenille

Draw the design upon the satin, frame the work, and work in embroidery-stitch. The rose-leaves with the yellow-greens, the leaves of thistles with the blue-greens, the stems with brown, the thistle and bud of thistle with the shades of puce, working the centre of the former with the shades of scarlet.

Work the rose on the right hand of thistle with the four darkest shades of crimson, and that on the left and the buds with the four lightest shades. Work the remaining rose with the yellow shades. Work the designs for corners in a similar manner, shading according to the taste of the worker.

The above design is adapted for the front or door of a small rosewood or an inlaid ebony cabinet, suitable for a lady's boudoir or dressing-room. It looks well if worked upon white instead of black satin; and if the former is used, it is advisable to have plate-glass as a protection to the needlework.

Materials—Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40, darning-cotton No. 12, meshes Nos. 4 and 9, cornucopia gauge

With the crochet-thread make a foundation by netting 33 loops on the large mesh, join and net 6 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on mesh No. 4 net 4 loops in one, missing every alternate loop; net 7 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on the large mesh net 4 loops in one, missing, as before, every alternate loop; net 15 rounds on the small mesh, net 4 loops in every alternate loop on the large mesh, then net 24 rounds on mesh No. 9; (a) net 24 loops, then net back, leaving the last of the 24 loops: continue netting these loops to and fro, decreasing one loop at the end of each row by leaving the last loop, and net until but one loop remains; repeat from (a) all round. This forms the scalloped edge.

With the cotton embroider the pattern in darning-stitch, as given in illustration.

Make a chain of 9 stitches; unite and work three rounds in double crochet, increasing in every loop in the first round, in every alternate in the second, and in every third in the third round.

9th round . Double crochet, increasing as before; repeat from fourth round four times, then work 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2 three times, then three rounds of double crochet without increasing; work these last six rounds three more times. This completes the bonnet.

For the Roll .—Make a chain the width required; work three rows in double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2; after which work alternately three rows of double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; these six rows may be repeated five more times, or till the size wished for is worked. Make up the bonnet on a foundation covered with blue silk, form the roll for the edge with wadding, trim with a small plume of blue feathers, or a rosette of blue ribbon.

The above directions are for a bonnet for an infant of five or six months old, but by increasing the number of rounds and rows for the roll a larger size may be worked.

3d row . 12 c s, s c into d l s; * 12 c s, miss 1 d l s, s c into second d l s; repeat from *.—

4th row . Begin on centre of loop of 12; * 16 c s, s c round the same loop, close to first stitch; 12 c s, s c round centre of next loop; repeat from *.

5th row . Commence on centre of 12 c s in last row; * 9 c s, s c into top of 16 c s; 9 c s, s c into centre of 12 c s; repeat from *.—

7th row . Commence on centre of 3 l s; * 13 c s, s c into same stitch to form a ring; d c round this seventeen times; 12 c s, miss 1, scallop, s c into second scallop; repeat from *.—

8th row . Commence on top stitch of 17 d c, round the ring in last row; * 8 c s, s c into same stitch; 8 c s, d c round centre of next loop of 12 c s; 8 c s, s c into centre stitch of ring; repeat from *.—

9th row . Begin in small loop at top of ring; 8 c s, 1 l s into same small loop; * 5 c s, s c into fifth of 8 c s in last row; 5 c s, s c into fourth of next loop of 8 c s; 5 c s, 1 l s into top loop; 5 c s, 1 l s into same loop; repeat from *.—

10th row . Begin in small loop at top of former small loop; * 11 c s, s c into next small loop; repeat from *.—

11th row . Begin on centre of 11 c s; * 7 c s, 1 t l s into same stitch; 6 c s, 1 s c into last part of t l s; 7 c s, s c into first stitch of the row; 12 c s, s c into centre of next 11 c s *; repeat from * to *.—

15th row . * 9 c s, 1 l s round 7 c s; 9 c s, 1 l s round same loop of 7; 9 c s, 1 s c into same loop; 10 c s, miss 1 loop of 7 c s, s c round next loop; repeat from *.

Materials—Half-an-ounce of pink four-thread Berlin wool, half-an-ounce of white ditto, four yards of cord, and a pair of pearl watch-hooks

With pink work in double crochet over the cord a circle of three inches and a half diameter; there should be 140 stitches round the edge, on which work the border, thus:—

1st row white . Work 1 stitch in open crochet, 1 chain, miss 1 of the foundation; repeat.—

2d row white . Work two treble long stitches into every space, 1 chain stitch between each.—

4th row pink . 1 plain crochet, 2 chain, miss 20, 1 plain; repeat. Tack the loops in the centre, and sew on a pearl watch-hook.

Make a round the size of a shilling, and work thirty-two treble-stitches round it.—

3d round . 1 single into the middle treble-stitch of the 3 in last round, 9 treble in the loop of 3 chain; repeat.—

4th round . 1 single into the third of the 9 treble, 5 chain, 1 single into the seventh of the 9 treble; repeat.—

5th round . 2 treble, 5 chain, 2 treble in the chain of five in the last round, 5 chain; repeat.—

6th round . 2 treble over the 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble in the loop of 5 chain, 2 chain, 2 treble over the second, 2 treble, 3 chain; repeat.—

7th round . 2 treble over the first 2 treble-stitches, 3 chain, 2 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, 1 chain; repeat.—

8th round . 4 treble, commencing on the last 2 treble-stitches in the last round, 5 chain, 2 treble, 5 chain; repeat.—

9th round . 2 treble over the 2 middle of the 4 treble, 7 chain, 2 treble, 7 chain; repeat.—

10th round . 1 single into the last chain-stitch in the last round, (a) 5 chain, 1 single into the second of the chain of seven, 7 chain, 1 single into the last but one of the 7 chain; repeat from (a) .—

16th, 17th, and 18th rounds . The same, only making 2 treble-stitches together, with 1 chain.—

21st round . 1 treble into the centre of the 1 loop of 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 single into second loop of 7 chain, 6 chain; repeat.—

22d round . 3 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain; repeat.—

23d round . 5 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the 3 treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain; repeat.—

24th round . 7 treble, commencing as before, and making a chain-stitch between each treble, 5 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 5 chain; repeat.

Materials—Black or crimson satin or velvet, gold thread, and gold-coloured silk braid

Draw the pattern with a white crayon, and work the leaves and the name with the gold thread in embroidery-stitch; sew on the braid on the scroll which encircles the cover.

Materials—Raworth's crochet-thread No. 30, or three shades of rose and one of drab crochet-thread

If the coloured threads are used, commence with the lightest pink, and make a chain of 30 stitches; work on each side and in the end of this in close double crochet, increasing by making three stitches in the end-stitches.—

2d round . 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, except at the three end-stitches, when none must be missed.—

3d round . 1 long in the 1 long of last round, 2 chain; increase at the ends by working 1 long in the alternate chain-stitches.—

4th round (with the second shade) . 5 single, 11 chain, miss 7; repeat all round.—

5th round . Work a stitch of double crochet in each of the chain-stitches, and in the first two of the single of last round, 5 chain, unite to the single in the ring which this forms; work 1 single, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 1 single, work 2 double in the 2 single; repeat all round.—

6th round (with the darkest shade) . 1 single in the centre of the 11 chain-stitches, 9 chain, 1 single in double long, 9 chain; repeat.—

For the Forget-me-nots .—With drab make a chain of 6 stitches, unite, and into this ring work 3 long stitches, 3 chain-stitches; repeat four times more. Make a chain of 5 stitches for the stem, and fasten off.

For the Leaves .—Make a chain of 15 stitches, work 11 double crochet down this chain, pass the thread under the stalk, and draw it through the 12 stitch on the opposite side. Work 1 long stitch into each of the next 3 loops; 4 chain-stitches, ( a ) 1 single crochet into the next loop; 1 long stitch into the following loop; 2 double long into the next; 1 treble long into the next; 2 double long, 1 single long, 4 chain; repeat from ( a ) to the 1 treble long, which brings you to the point of leaf. Work on the reverse side 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single, ( a ) 4 chain, 1 single, 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single; repeat from ( a ), and finish by working down the stem. 27 forget-me-nots and 12 leaves will be required. Cut a paper pattern the size and shape required; tack the centre of serviette to this, the right side to the paper, arrange the leaves and flowers as indicated in illustration; work stems for the flowers in chain-stitch, and to this attach each flower; work between the flowers and the leaves in button-hole stitch, and sew the leaves and flowers to the centre.

Materials—Black satin, three shades of green chenille, three shades of brown chenille gold twist, and gold beads

Work the shamrocks with the green chenille, veining the leaves with gold twist; the foliage in the background is also worked with green chenille. The framework of the harp is executed with beads, and the strings with twist. The wolf-hound is worked with brown chenille in embroidery-stitch, as also are the stems of the shamrocks and foliage.

Materials—Three skeins of coarse purse silk, either a rich green, dark blue, or cerise, according to fancy; mesh No. 12

2d row . Net the 2d stitch, then the 1st, now net the 4th, and afterwards the 3d; continue in this way to the end of the row.—

3d row . The first and every alternate stitch of last row will appear to be twisted, into which net 1 stitch; but into 2d and every other net 2; repeat to the end of the row.—

4th row . Net plain, leaving the extra stitches of last row unnetted; these 4 rows form the pattern, which must be repeated fourteen times more; join one-third of the rows together at each side, net 2 rows round the opening with a No. 21 mesh, draw up the ends, and finish with steel tassels and slides.

Materials—Green and puce Berlin wool (four shades of green and three of puce), three skeins of each shade, and four skeins of black wool. One pair of tassels of corresponding colours, and a quarter of a yard of morocco leather for lining, will also be required

Work in double-stitch crochet, passing the hook through both the upper and under loop of the stitch of the preceding row. With black make a chain nine inches in length. Work 1 row; work 2 rows with each shade of green, commencing with the darkest; work 2 rows with black, then work 1 row with each shade of puce, commencing at the darkest. Work five stripes with each colour, and in working the last row but one of black work 3 chain, miss 3, fourteen stitches from each end. These form button-holes.

For the Ends .—With darkest green make a chain of 9 stitches; unite, and work two rounds, increasing in every stitch in the first and every alternate in the second round. Work two rounds with each of the other shades, increasing always in the same stitch. Work one round with black, one with the lightest puce, then one with black. Work a second end in the same manner.

For the Handle .—With black make a chain fourteen inches in length. Work one row with the second shade of green, one with the mid shade of puce, then one with the third shade of green, and one again with black. Crochet in the ends to the body of the bag. Line with leather. Sew on the handle, the tassels, and also two buttons on the side opposite to the button-holes. Sew gimp round the joining at the ends, or work 3 plain stitches, 9 chain, miss 4, with black wool.—

Materials—Dark crimson velvet, or cachmere and gold twist or embroidery silk; if the latter, three shades of green, three of rose, three of blue, three of yellow, three of violet, and two of brown will be requisite

Draw the pattern on the material with a white crayon, and work in embroidery-stitch with gold twist or the silks, as may be preferred; if the silks are used, work the leaves with the shades of green, the stems with brown, the pansy with the shades of violet and yellow, the buds of the rose with the greens and the rose-colours, and the forget-me-nots with blue, carefully blending the shades as may be suggested by the taste of the worker. Finish with a row of gold twist sewed round the edge of the case.

Materials—Cambric muslin and French working-cotton No. 80, or black silk and fine sewing-silk

Having drawn the pattern on the material, work the lines and the edge in button-hole stitch; then cut out the spaces between the lines, leaving only the parts which are worked.

Materials—White silk or cachmere; three shades of scarlet, three of blue, three of green, and two of yellow chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin wool, two skeins of each shade; and two skeins of white wool

Draw the pattern on the material; work in embroidery-stitch the centre flower with the shades of scarlet, and the stamens of the flower with two shades of yellow. The buds are worked with scarlet, the small flowers with blue, and the leaves with green.

Work the fringe from the directions for fringe for liqueur-stand, and line with green silk.

Materials—Raworth's crochet-thread No. 21, and pink and drab crochet-thread of corresponding quality

5th row . 1 long, 4 chain, (a) 5 long, worked on the last stitch of chain and above the first four long of last row; repeat from (a).—

6th, 7th, and 8th rows . As 5th row , but that the number of edge-stitches must decrease in each row.—

9th row . 5 long, the first worked above the second long of last row, the remaining above the remaining long, and in the first stitch of chain; repeat.—

10th, 11th, and 12th rows . As 9th row , increasing the number of edge-stitches.—

15th row . 7 stitches of double, (a) make a chain of 15 loops, form a circle by working a plain stitch into the ninth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the second loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the third loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the fifth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the sixth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the eighth loop; work a stitch of single crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches, then 15 stitches of double crochet in the fifteen following stitches of the 14th row; repeat from (a) to the end of row.

With pink work rows of single open crochet between the flowers already worked with white, attaching the thread to the second stitch of foundation in the 1st row , and finishing in the third chain in the opposite leaf. In the 2d row , fasten the thread to the third chain of second leaf, and finish at the opposite leaf.— 3d row . Fasten on at the fifth chain of second leaf, and finish at the opposite leaf.— 4th row . Commence at third chain of third leaf, and finish at opposite leaf. Work thus between each of the flowers to the end of row, then work a row of single open crochet.

With white work 1 row in double crochet, and a row, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat. Recommence again at 2d row, and repeat the stripes of drab five times, and of pink three times. Procure two tassels of the colours used in the cover for chair, and attach to the sides.

Materials—Drab crochet-thread, two shades of narrow blue satin ribbon, cord and tassels to correspond with the ribbon; a piece of blue and a piece of white silk as a lining

7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th rows . Like the 2d and 3d ; repeat from the 3d row twice, and finish with 3 rows, 3 long, 3 chain, miss 3. Crochet the sides together, work a row of double-long stitches around the top, in which to insert the cord, and finish with a row of double crochet. Pass the ribbon through the rows of 3 chain, 3 long, placing the lightest in the centre strip, as will be seen by referring to illustration. Make a double lining with the silk; place the white next the reticule, and the blue inside, and finish with cord and tassels.

Procure a case made of sycamore wood of proper shape. Upon this draw the design with a pencil, trace over the pencil-marks with Indian ink and a fine crow-quill; then fill in the ground with Indian ink and a camel's-hair brush. After two or three days, varnish with the best picture-varnish.

7th round . Two 3 chain crochet-stitches, 3 chain, 7 long in the centre loop of 5th, 3 chain crochet-stitch.—

17th round . Four 3 chain crochet-stitches over the 12 long, 7 long in the centre loop of 3 chain.—

2d round . 5 chain, 1 long in centre of 8 chain, 5 chain, 4 long over the 6 long.—

3d round . 5 chain crochet to the centre of 5 chain, 5 chain crochet to the centre of 5 chain, 5 chain, 3 long.—

4th round . 5 chain. Work this lace round the top of the row of leaves which is to form the side of cushion, commencing at the 17th round.

4th row . Cast off 13 stitches at the beginning and end of the row, knit the remaining stitches.—

6th row . Knit 3, (a) thread forward, knit 5, thread forward, knit 3 together; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 3.—

8th row . Knit 1, knit 2 together, (a) thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 2 together, knit 1.—

10th row . Knit 2, (a) thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 2.—

Commence again at 6th row, beginning each row with knit 2, and knit until five diamonds are worked; knit two plain rows, then thread forward, knit 2 together, after which a pearl row, and cast off loosely in knitting the two last diamonds, and the remaining rows increase by making a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; join the piece behind, and pass a narrow ribbon through the open loops and down the front, leaving sufficient for strings.

Materials—Black satin; four shades of scarlet, four ditto of crimson, four ditto of amber, four ditto of peach, three ditto of stone-colours, three ditto of blue, three ditto of blue greens, three ditto of yellow greens, and one skein of white embroidery silk or of Berlin wools.

Draw the pattern upon the satin, and work in embroidery stitch. Commence the first dahlia with shades of amber; the second with the shades of stone-colour, using white for the lightest; the third with scarlet shades; the fourth with peach shades; the roses with the crimsons; the lilies with the stone-colours, using white for the lightest shade; and the forget-me-nots with the shades of blue. Work the rose-leaves with the yellow greens, and the dahlia-leaves with the blue greens; work the stems with brown. The stamens of the yellow dahlia must be worked with green, but in all the others with yellow.

Materials—Shaded green, shaded amber, shaded geranium-colour, Berlin wool; two skeins of blue, two of green, Berlin wool, and two yards of wire, will also be required.

With shaded green make a chain of nine stitches; unite and work ten rounds in close double crochet, increasing in every stitch in the first round, in every alternate in the second, and in the same stitch in each of the succeeding rounds.—

13th round (with amber) . 3 long worked in the 3 chain of last round, 4 chain; repeat.—

15th round (with shaded green) . 3 long worked in one stitch, 1 chain, miss 3; repeat.—

17th round (with amber) . 3 long worked above the one chain of 15th round, 2 chain; repeat.—

18th and 19th rounds . Close double crochet. The last of these rounds is worked over a wire, and a round in close double crochet, with amber, is also worked over a wire in the 10th round, to form the bottom of basket. Wrap four pieces of wire, the height of the basket, with green wool, and attach to the inside at regular distances. Prepare a piece of wire, in like manner, for the handle. Work the handle as follows:

3d row (with green) . Close double crochet; sew this to the wire, which must be placed in the under side.

Prepare the flowers and leaves which ornament the edge of the basket in the following manner:

Geranium .—With geranium-coloured wool make a chain of five stitches, unite, and work a round in double crochet, increasing in every stitch; work a round without increasing, then work 1 single crochet, 2 chain, 3 long, 2 chain, 1 single crochet, in one stitch, miss 1, and repeat in every alternate stitch.

For the Cup of the Flower .—With green make a chain of five stitches, unite, and work 1 single, 2 long, 1 single in every stitch. Make the stamens with amber wool, and sew the stamens and flower to the cup.

For Geranium-bud .—With geranium-colour make a chain of three stitches, unite, increase in the second round by working two in each alternate stitch; work 2 rounds without increasing; then work two rounds decreasing in every stitch. With green make a chain of four stitches, unite, and work 1 single, 3 long, 1 single; repeat three times, and draw the bud through this, leaving a piece for the stem, which must be wrapped with green wool. Forget-me-not .—With blue make a chain of five, unite, and into this ring work 1 single, 2 long, 1 single; repeat four times.

For the Cup of the Flower .—With green make a chain of four stitches, work 1 single, 1 long in every loop; make stamens with pieces of amber wool; place the flower within the cup, draw the stamens through, and sew at the end, leaving a piece of wool for the stem, which is wrapped with green.

For the Leaves .—With green make a chain of 18 stitches; work down one side of these for 11 stitches in single crochet; turn to the other side, work 1 single, 2 long, in the first two stitches; ( a ) 1 single, 1 long, in third stitch; 2 double long in the fourth; 1 long, 2 chain, in the fifth stitch; repeat from ( a ) once, and work 1 long, 2 double long, in the ninth and tenth stitches, and in the last stitch work two treble long. Work the other side of leaf to correspond. Work down the chain to the fifteenth stitch; from this work a chain of 11 stitches, and work a leaf from the directions already given. Work a third leaf on the reverse side of stem. Seven geraniums and three buds will be required, and fifteen forget-me-nots and seven sprays of leaves will also be needed.

Arrange the flowers and leaves on the basket as seen in illustration, and sew on the handle.

Materials—Raworth's crochet-thread No. 70, and a middle-sized tambour-needle.

Cut out in paper the shape of the collar you wish to make, but half an inch larger all round.

Edging for the Collar .—Make a chain about one-third longer than the outside of your paper pattern, turn and work the first row along the chain in long crochet, making a chain stitch after each long one, and missing the corresponding loop of the chain.—

2d row . Turn again, keeping the work on the right side; make 3 chain stitches, and along the opposite edge of the long stitches, ( a ), work 10 plain stitches, and in the tenth a chain of 9 stitches; turn, and along the vein just made work 8 stitches in double crochet, and 1 plain stitch in the loop from which the chain springs; repeat from ( a ) throughout the row. Break off your cotton, and begin the next row and all the following at the other end.—

3d row. (b ) Work 9 plain stitches, then work round the vein in long stitches, making an additional stitch at the top; repeat from ( b ).—

4th row. (c ) Work 8 plain stitches, then round the leaf in long stitches, making 2 additional stitches in the top loop; repeat from ( c ).—

5th row. (d ) Work 7 plain stitches, then, in double crochet, making round the leaf an additional stitch in the top loop; repeat from (d) .—

6th row. (e) Work 6 plain stitches, and round the leaf in double crochet, without making a stitch at the top; repeat from (e).

To complete your edging, work a row of double crochet on the other edge of the row of long stitches.

— Make a chain of 6 stitches; close it by taking a plain stitch in the first of the chain; work in every loop of this small ring 2 long stitches, with a chain-stitch between each of the long ones. In finishing the round, make a stitch to complete the number of twenty-five loops; then (a) work 5 plain stitches, and in the fifth make a chain of 7 stitches; turn, work 6 stitches in double crochet along the chain, and 1 plain in the loop from which the chain springs; repeat from (a) four times. You have then three veins; work round them as directed for the leaves of the edging; after the second row of double crochet break off your cotton. According to the size of the collar, five or six flowers will be sufficient, if you make also the trifoliums.

Trifoliums .—Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn, and work along the chain 3 plain stitches, a vein of 7 stitches; 6 plain, a vein of 8 stitches; 6 more plain stitches, another vein of 7; 3 plain stitches, and break off the cotton. Begin at the first end, and work the two rows of long stitches exactly as directed for the leaves of the edging; at the end of the two following rows, which are in double crochet, round the leaves, instead of breaking off the cotton, work in double crochet from the third leaflet to the first; thus connecting the work in one single leaf with three divisions. Having prepared the required number of flowers and leaves, baste your edging on the paper pattern, so that the whole of the leaves rest on the paper; then work a chain rather loose, to connect the two ends of the collar on the neck side; turn, and work along that chain a row of double crochet. Baste this narrow band carefully half an inch from the edge of the paper; then begin a row of double crochet inside the collar, throwing, at even distances, a slanting chain from the edging to the neckband, working back each time along that chain in long or double crochet; repeat the same operation from the neckband to the edging, so as to divide the whole middle of the collar in a certain number of diamonds; baste the diamonds to the paper, place alternately in each a flower or a trifolium, and, with a sewing-needle and fine French embroidery cotton, connect the flowers and leaves to the inside edges of the diamonds in long twisted stitches, rows of button-hole stitches, or any kind of lace-work. After being washed and starched, the collar ought to be pressed on the wrong side with the head of a round nail warmed in the fire.

This description of drawing is called Scagliola work, or a Mischia (mixed workmanship); it was first invented by Guido Tassi, and the art was afterwards improved and perfected by Henry Hugford, a monk, of Vallambrosa. It was first used to counterfeit marbles; and the altar of St. Antonio, in the church of St. Nicolo, at Carpi, is still preserved as a monument of extraordinary skill and beauty. It consists of two columns, representing porphyry, and adorned with a pallium, embroidered as it were with lace; while it is ornamented in the margin with medals bearing beautiful figures.

The dicromi, or yellow figures on a black ground, in imitation of the Etruscan vases, are now most admired in scagliola work; and as the art is one easy of attainment, we shall describe it. Having procured a piece of sycamore of the desired size and shape, you draw upon it with a pencil, first the centre piece, and afterwards the border; you then trace over the pencil marks with Indian-ink and a fine crow-quill, and next fill in the ground with Indian-ink and a camel's-hair brush. After two or three days, varnish with the best picture-varnish. If sycamore cannot be procured, deal will answer the purpose, covered with good cream-coloured drawing-paper.

Make a chain of 60 stitches; work round this, at each side and the ends, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, increasing by missing but 1 stitch at the ends. Work 10 rounds thus; then make a round of double crochet. For the sides, work 13 rounds in the same manner, but increasing in every alternate round by making 3 chain-stitches between the long; finish with the following lace:

1st round . 3 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2; repeat.—

2d round . 5 long, the first worked over the last stitch of chain; the others in succeeding stitches, 4 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 4 chain; repeat.—

3d round . 3 long worked over the 3 centre long stitches, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

4th and 5th rounds . 1 long, 5 chain, the long worked in the centre stitch of chain; repeat.—

6th round . 5 long worked in the centre stitch of chain, 3 chain, miss 8; repeat.—

7th round . 3 long, the first in the last chain-stitch, the succeeding above the first, 2 long, 2 chain, miss 1, 3 long, 3 chain; repeat.—

8th, 9th, and 10th rounds . 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of 3 chain of last round, 3 chain, 1 long, miss 3, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 3, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 3, 3 chain; repeat.

Line the basket with rose-coloured satin before sewing in the crochet lining; wrap the handle with ribbon of shade to correspond with the satin, and place small rosettes at each side.

Materials required will be a quarter of a yard of common bed-ticken, but of a good broad stripe; some fine gold thread, also some silver thread, and various coloured silks.

Measure the size round the head, and cut a piece of ticken to the length, and of the depth of seven inches; work on the black stripes in herring-bone; stitch a row of gold and silver cord, alternate; and on the intermediate white stripes work, according to fancy, different coloured silks, also in herring-bone stitch, only rather larger, to fill up the stripe. Cut a piece of ticken round, and of about 2-1/2 inches in diameter; work it in the same manner, and mount it on a circular piece of card; full the headpiece round the small crown, line it with some bright-coloured Persian, and trim it with a gilt band, and gilt tassel to match.

This cap is so simple a work, that it hardly allows any one to suppose it will look as pretty as it certainly does.

Materials—Scarlet and green shaded eight-thread Berlin wool; Penelope crochet needle No. 1.

With scarlet make a chain of 9 stitches, join and work a round in double crochet, increasing in every stitch.—

4th round . 1 long in the centre stitch of chain, 4 chain; repeat all round.—

6th round . 3 long, the centre one above the 1 long in 3d round, 4 chain; repeat all round.—

7th round . 4 long worked in the 4 chain stitches, 4 chain; repeat all round.—

13th round . Chain of 7 stitches, worked in every third stitch with a plain stitch.—

14th and three following rounds . Chain of 9 stitches, worked in the centre stitch of chain of previous round.—

18th round . 3 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre chain-stitch of every 5th chain of 9; repeat all round, and this completes the mat.

Make a chain of 40 stitches, join and work two rounds in single open crochet.—

5th round . 5 long worked in the last chain-stitch, and over the 3 long stitches and in the first chain-stitch, 5 chain, 1 long 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

6th round . 7 long worked as in 5th round, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

7th round . 9 long worked as before, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

8th round . 11 long worked as before, 5 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

15th round . 9 long, 5 chain, 1 long worked in the centre stitch of the 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

16th round . 7 long, 7 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 7 chain; repeat.—

17th round . 5 long, 3 chain, 1 long worked in the centre stitch of 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.—

18th round . 3 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain.—

Band of insertion for the Wrist .—19 c s, unite d c round this ring eighteen times, which will cover about three-quarters of the ring. Turn the work wrong side up. 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat this five times more. Turn 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c, into every space formed by 6 c s, d c round the remaining part of the ring six times; fasten off, leaving one end about three inches long. Turn on the wrong side. Begin on the third stitch of third scallop of last flower. 12 c s, s c into fifth stitch of next scallop, forming a loop over the two centre scallops. Turn. D c round this loop eighteen times. Turn. * 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat from * five times more. Turn. 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c into every space formed by 6 c s; fasten off, leaving one end as in last flower. Work fifteen of these flowers, thread a fine needle with the ends left, and make a few stitches on the wrong side to secure them. The band between the two puffings is to be worked exactly the same; but there must be eighteen flowers instead of fifteen. Commence the fulness on the band for the wrist on the first scallop, at the edge, 5 c s (working in the end of the thread), s c into the centre of next scallop, * 6 c s, s c into the first scallop of next flower. 5 c s, s c into next scallop; repeat from * to the end of the band.

2d row . Commence on the first loop of 5 c s in last row, * 8 c s, d c round the next loop, 8 c s, d c round the same loop; repeat from * to the end of the row.— 3d row . Commence on first loop of 8 c s in last row, 9 c s, d c into next loop, 9 c s, d c into next loop; repeat to the end of the row.— 4th row . Commence on the same loop of 8 c s, as the last row was begun on 10 c s, d c round the centre of first loop in last row, * 9 c s, d c round the next loop; repeat from * to the end of the row. After the d c stitch round the last loop in this row, make 5 c s, and draw the end of the cotton through. These 5 c s must be worked at the end of every alternate row, in order to keep the ends of the fulness even . Work four more rows like the two last, making in all six rows, then seven rows, having 10 c s in each loop, every alternate row of which is begun in the same loop as the preceding row, having 12 c s in the first loop. Then work six more rows like the former six, having 9 c s in each loop. This will make nineteen rows of loops: fasten off. Work a fulness on the upper band of insertion in exactly the same manner, and gather it in at the top next the sleeve in this way: commence on the first loop 2 c s, take the next loop on the needle, and d c round it once, 2 c s, * d c round next loop once, 2 c s; repeat from * to end of row. In the next row, work 1 l s into every stitch of last row.

To unite the fulness on the wristband to the upper band of insertion, turn them both on the wrong side, and hold them as if they were to be sewn together, the insertion being at the back. Take the first loop, and the centre stitch of the first scallop, on the needle, and work 1 s c to unite them, 3 c s, s c the next loop and centre stitch of the next scallop, º 4 c s, s c the next loop and centre of first scallop in next flounce together, 3 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, º * 4 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, 2 c s; take the next loop on the needle without the scallop, and s c once round it, 2 c s, s c the next loop and next scallop together; repeat from * to end of row, except on the two last flowers, which must be worked as from º to º.

For the Edging on the Wristband .—Commence on the first scallop of the insertion, * 5 c s, s c into next scallop, 6 c s, s c into next scallop; repeat from * to end of row.

2d row . 10 c s, 1 l s, into first loop of last row, * 3 c s, 1 l s into same loop, 3 c s, 1 l s into next loop; repeat from * to end of row.—

5th row . Begin on the first loop of third row, 6 c s, 5 l s into first loop of last row, 4 c s, d c into next loop, * 4 c s, 5 l s into next loop, 4 c s, d c into next loop; repeat from *.—

6th row . 4 d c stitches round first loop of 6 c s in last row, 8 c s, * miss the 5 l s, d c four times round the next loop of 4 c s, 4 d c round the next loop, 8 c s; repeat from *.—

7th row . Begin on first loop of 8 in last row, 7 c s, s c between the two loops of 4 d c each, * 7 c s, s c round the centre of 8 c s in last row, 10 c s, d c round the same loop, 7 c s, s c between the two loops of 4 d c; repeat from * to end of row. This finishes the edging.

D c round the ends of the puffings, taking in the ends left on finishing the rows. Make a chain of 15 stitches at the ends of the two bands of insertions, and s c into the edge for a small loop. D c round these twenty-four times, and sew a small pearl button on the other ends of the bands. The insertion may have a narrow satin ribbon run through the open holes, finished by a small bow at the upper part of the sleeve.

Six pieces of velvet, three nails in length, and the width given in diagram will be required, and these must be sloped to a point. Draw the designs upon the velvet with a white crayon, and sew on the braid; arrange the patterns in alternate order; neatly join the pieces of velvet, and edge each joining with braid; line with silk, and finish with band and tassels.

With No. 90 make a chain of 3 loops, join and work a round of double crochet.—

11th and 12th rounds . 3-chain crochet, increasing as required, to form the round for crown.—

13th round . Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding round; repeat.—

14th round . Three 3-chain, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding round; repeat.—

21st round . Double crochet. This completes the crown of the cap; leave one-third to form the neck. The front of the cap must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the right hand.

Front.—1st round . 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loop of preceding round; repeat.—

4th round . Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet stitch of preceding row; repeat.—

5th row . Three 3-chain double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.—

6th row . Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 1 loop between each long over the double crochet of preceding row; repeat.—

7th row . Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.—

9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th rows , like the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th rows.—

20th row . Three 3-chain crochet, five long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch; repeat.—

30th row . Double crochet; repeat. Work the ends of the front and that part of the crown that was left to form the neck, in double crochet, rounding the crown part by missing every second loop; then work 2 chain, 2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; then a row of double crochet: this completes the cap. Draw with narrow satin ribbon, and trim with the following lace:—

This lace must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the right-hand side of foundation. Make a chain the required length with thread No. 90; work 1 row in double crochet.—

5th row . Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.—

6th row . 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the five long stitches of preceding row; repeat.—

8th row . Five 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every sixth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.—

9th row . Five 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long stitches of preceding row; repeat.—

12th row . Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.—

13th row . Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the 5 long stitches of preceding row; repeat.—

14th row . Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.—

15th row . Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.—

16th row . 5 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.—

Materials—Black satin and four shades of crimson, two ditto of blue, three ditto of green, and white embroidery silk.

Draw the design on the satin, and work in embroidery stitch the large flowers with the shades of crimson, commencing each petal with the second shade, then work with the third, and finish with the lightest. Commence the centre of the flower with the lightest, then work with the second shade, after which work the two upper divisions with the two next shades in regular order. Work the cup of the flower with the middle shade of green, and the piece beneath with the second shade of crimson. Work the stems with the lightest green, and the leaves with the other two shades. Work the centre part of the small flowers with the darkest crimson, the small petals which encircle this with the next shade of crimson; then work with the darkest blue, after which with the lightest, and finish the edge of the flower with white. Work the pockets and the band in a similar manner, and finish with cord and tassels.

Materials—Brussels net, French working-cotton No. 120, Raworth's sewing-cotton No. 100, and a fine pearl edge.

Work the outline of the pattern and the edge with French cotton in tambour-*stitch, and fill in the spaces with the sewing-cotton in the same stitch, or, if preferred, in darning-stitch; work dots in the places indicated in the design, and, after washing the scarf, sew a pearl edge all round.

A description of head-dress, for which this scarf is intended, will be found in the London and Paris fashions of No. 126 of the Lady's Newspaper.

Materials—Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40; a reel of pink cotton of the same size, or two pieces of white and two of pink netting-silk; three silk pink and white tassels; two yards and a half of silk bag-cord; half-a-yard of pink sarsnet; three meshes cornucopia gauge of No. 1, No. 6, and one No. 11; two netting-needles; and a piece of cane used for drawn bonnets.

Set on 71 stitches with No. 1 mesh, join the round in pink cotton.— No . 11 mesh . Net 4 rounds of alternate white and pink.—* No . 1 mesh (white cotton). 2 plain rounds.— No. 6 mesh . Take 2 of the preceding row together in pink cotton; 1 plain round, same cotton and mesh.— No . 1 mesh (white cotton ). Make 2 stitches in each stitch of the preceding row; 1 round plain, same cotton and mesh.— No . 11 mesh (pink cotton ). Net 5 plain rounds; recommence from * twice; finish top of bag by 3 plain rows in white of No. 6 mesh, for the cords to pass through; 2 plain rows in pink of No. 11 mesh; last row, double pink cotton, with No. 1 mesh.

Take the half-yard of sarsnet, join it up neatly, make 3 runners the width of the cane, the first at three inches from the bottom, the second at two inches from the first, and the third two inches from the second; run a piece of cane ten inches long in the first runner, another piece of sixteen inches and a half long in the second runner, and one of eleven inches and a half long in the third runner; tack each of these bands of cane to the 5 rows of fine netting to form the shape, close up the bottom, and place a tassel; run the cord round the top of bag, and fasten a tassel to each end.

Materials—Shaded green, shaded scarlet, and shaded amber Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 1, 4, and 8.

With scarlet make a foundation of 25 loops on mesh No. 4; join and net 1 round on mesh No. 8; fasten on the green; net 2 loops in 1; then net 3 rounds more with green, without increasing; fasten on the scarlet; net 1 round on mesh No. 4, 2 on mesh No. 8, 1 on mesh No. 4, and 2 on mesh No. 8; fasten on the green; net 6 loops in every loop on mesh No. 1; net 1 round with amber on mesh No. 8; fasten on the scarlet wool in the fourth round from edge, that is, in the same loops as that in which the row of scarlet, netted on mesh No. 4, was netted; into this row net 1 row on mesh No. 8; net 2 more rows with scarlet on mesh No. 8; then with green net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; net 1 row with amber on mesh No 8; fasten on the scarlet in the last row of green in the centre of the mat; into this row net 1 row on mesh No. 8; then net 6 more rows in the same mesh; net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; 1 row with amber on mesh No. 8.

Materials—Pink silk or satin, a piece of white silk braid, white silk fringe, and white satin ribbon.

Draw the pattern on the silk with a white crayon, and hem the braid on; trim with the fringe, and rows of satin ribbon.

Materials—Raworth's crochet-thread Nos . 120 and 90, or black crape silk.

The receipt for the back of mitten is here given, the underpart and the thumb being simply French ground-work, finished at the top and bottom like the back, leaving an opening at the side for the thumb. Make a chain long enough to go round the wrist in thread No. 90, and work one plain row. Fasten on thread No. 120, and work one treble and row of French ground of six stitches to each hole.—

3d row . 4 French ground, 6 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 6 long close, 4 French ground.—

4th row . 5 French ground, 6 long close, 2 French ground, 6 long close, 2 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.—

5th row . 5 French ground, 15 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.—

6th row . 7 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 18 long close, 4 French ground.—

7th row . 4 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.—

8th row . 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.—

9th row . 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 4 French ground, 18 long close, 3 French ground.—

10th row . 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground.—

11th row . 3 French ground, 12 long close, 2 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.—

12th row . 5 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground.—

13th row . 6 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.—

14th row . 5 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.—

15th row . 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground.—

16th row . 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 18 long close, 9 French ground.—

17th row . 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground.—

18th row . 4 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 4 French ground.—

5th row . 6 long close, 5 chain, 6 chain, 8 chain, 6 chain to be worked into the same loop, 5 chain; repeat all round. The engraving will greatly assist in working out this.

Explanation of Terms .—French ground: six chain stitches united to the centre stitch of former row. Long close: long stitches, without any chain-stitch between.

Flowers for the Border .—The following is the mode of working this pattern:—Make 28 chain. Turn. Miss 17, 1 plain, 1 chain, 1 long, 2 chain. Continue to work 1 long and 2 chain all round the flower.—

2d round . 3 plain under every 2 chain; 4 plain in the stem. Fasten off for the leaf.

12 chain. Turn. Miss 2; 7 long stitches in 7 following chain, 1 plain; 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long, 1 plain in the same chain as last long; 3 long, 1 plain, 5 long to turn the point; 1 plain, 3 long, 1 plain twice; 7 plain in stem. Fasten off. The second flower, worked as the first, is united to it by working the eighth plain stitch of the last round of the flowers into a stitch the same distance from the stem of the first flower. To turn the corners of the collar, work a flower without a leaf. Continue these flowers the length of the collar.

First leaf . 31 chain. Turn. Insert the needle into the nineteenth chain; 1 plain, 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long into three following chain; 2 long in 1 chain, 4 long, 2 long in 1 chain; 3 long to turn the points. Then down the other side of the leaf the same. 4 plain in the stem; 1 chain to cross the stem.—

Second leaf . 21 chain, and work as first leaf. When finished, work 4 plain down the stem.—

The flower . 17 chain. Turn. Insert the needle in the tenth chain to form a loop; work 15 plain stitches in the loop.—

3d round . 3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain; repeat. 17 plain in the stem. Fasten off for the band.

2d row . 1 plain, 2 long, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 plain; repeat. Directions for making up the collar .—After the leaves, flowers, band, and border are worked, cut the shape of the collar in pink or blue paper; gum a piece of holland at the back of the paper, to prevent its tearing; tack the border on the paper pattern, the right side downwards; then sew on the sprigs as in the engraving. Sew the edges of the leaves and flowers nicely, to prevent their turning up; then, with a sewing-needle and fine cotton, unite the flowers, leaves, and borders, by passing the needle from one part of a leaf or flower to another four or five times; then pass the needle under the bars formed six or eight times, according to the length of the bar; pass the needle to another part, and continue to connect the work in this manner throughout the collar.

Materials—Black satin or velvet; three shades of green, two ditto of crimson, two ditto of blue, and one skein of olive silk; and one piece of silver twist

Work, in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the greens, the flowers with the crimson, the stems with the olive, the harp with blue, the cords of harp with the silver twist, and the shamrocks with green.

Materials—Half-an-ounce of shaded scarlet Berlin wool, and six skeins of white wool; Penelope crochet No. 2.

With white make a chain measuring 18 inches. Work a row in single open crochet. With scarlet work 2 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each row. Work the next row with white, and continue alternately 2 rows scarlet and 1 white, decreasing every row until 9 rows are completed.

For the Borders .—With white work in chains of 7, missing every alternate stitch at the back, and taking every stitch at the sides; and for the space of 24 stitches in the centre of the cap miss 2 stitches. Work a second row of chains of 7 at the sides. Work an additional border in the same manner, taking the stitches above the third row of white. Pass casings of scarlet ribbon through each of the rows of white wool, place loops of the same between the borders, join the cap behind, and finish with a rosette of ribbon.

The materials required are, a quarter of a yard of bright rose-coloured glazed muslin, a quarter of a yard of white glazed jaconet muslin, two pieces of card of three inches and a half long and one inch broad; join in, and cut out of rose and white jaconet muslin twenty pieces of each colour; fold them, and sew on the card 5 rose, then 5 white, all round, and your baboche will be completed.—( See drawing.) We assure our fair readers they are exceedingly pretty, and certainly not found difficult.

Materials—Shaded scarlet and green double Berlin wool; Raworth's crochet-thread No . 16; Penelope crochet No . 1.

With green make a chain of 5 stitches, unite the ends; then make 7 chain, 1 single into each loop of the preceding chain.—

1st round . 5 chain, 1 single in the centre loop of the 7 chain; repeat four times.—

2d, 3d, and 4th rounds . 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat, uniting the ends of each round, and taking the loops at the back of the chain.—

5th round (crochet-thread .) 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble twice, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.—

6th round (green wool) . 4 treble over the 4 in the last row, 1 double, 5 chain, 1 single through the loop in the last round twice, 5 chain, 1 single; repeat.—

7th round (crochet-thread) . 4 treble over the 4 in the last round, 1 double, 5 chain, 1 single over the 1 in the last round.—

8th round (scarlet) . 4 treble, 1 double, 3 chain, 1 double through the loop, 5 chain, 1 double twice, 3 chain, 1 double; repeat.

Materials—White and scarlet Berlin wool, three shades, and shaded green wool; Penelope crochet No . 2.

With white make a chain of 40 loops, and work from the directions given for collar, page 38. Finish, to correspond with, collar, placing a rosette in the centre of the cuff, and fastening with a hook and eye.

Materials—White silk or cachmere; three shades of crimson, three ditto of green, two ditto of brown chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin wool, four skeins of each shade; and four skeins of white Berlin wool.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch; the roses with the shades of crimson; the leaves with green, shading according to taste; and the stems with brown. In working the designs for the corners, it is an improvement to introduce brown leaves occasionally. Work a shaded fringe round the edge with the wools on a mesh an inch and a half in width. Work the first round with white; the second, the lightest crimson; after which, work one round with each shade to the darkest; cut and comb the fringe, and line the mat with green silk.

Materials—If for a black veil, fine black crochet-silk; if white, Raworth's crochet-thread No . 70.

The Rose.—1st row . 39 c s, 1 l s into eighth stitch, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * to end of chain, except the last three stitches, then 6 c s, 1 s c into last stitch.—

2d row . 5 c s, 1 l s over 1 s in last row (this row is worked on the other side of chain, where the two stitches were missed), * 2 c s, 1 l s over next 1 s; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of last row, * 1 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of next space; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space, * 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space; repeat from * to end of row. After the last l s one space is left. 1 c s, 1 l s into this. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s into second space, 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second, 1 c s, 1 l s into next, 4 c s, 1 s c into last space. Fasten off. Commence again on last s c stitch of first row. 3 l s, d l s into first space towards the top, 4 d l s into next space, 3 l s, 1 d c into third space, 3 l s, 2 d l s into next space, 3 t l s into top space, 2 d l s, 3 l s into next, 1 d c, 3 l s into next, 4 d l s into next, 4 d l s, 3 l s into next space. Continue all round thus: 6 d l s into next or corner space, 4 d l s into next and every other space except the end, into which 5 d l s, 1 l s. Turn. 4 c s, miss 2, s c into third, 4 c s, miss 2, d c into third, * 4 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third. Continue from * thirteen times, then 4 c s, d c into third stitch, 4 c s, miss 2, s c into third. Turn. 4 d c round every 4 c s all along the last row, 9 c s, s c into middle stitch of the first of three scallops at the top of the rose, 9 c s, s c into second stitch of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into last stitch but one of same scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of next scallop, 9 c s, s c into first of 4 d c stitches round the space of last row * 9 c s, miss 6, s c into seventh; repeat from * until these chains meet where they were begun; then *11 c s, s c into s c stitch on the other side of first chain; repeat from * all round.

Wreath of Leaves and Buds .—For the wreath under the corner rose: 94 c s, s c down twelve of these, * 7 c s, s c into third s c stitch; repeat from * three times more, which brings it to top stitch; 8 c s, s c into same stitch, * 7 c s, s c into third stitch down the other side; repeat from * three times more; pass the thread under the stalk, 3 d c into first loop of 7 c s, * 7 c, s c round next loop of 7 c s; repeat from * three times, which brings it to top loop; 7 c s, s c into same loop; repeat the 7 c into every loop down the other side; s c, 5 c s for a stalk; 10 c s, 1 d l s into fifth stitch, 5 more d l s into same stitch. Turn. D c along the top of these d l s. Turn. D c along last d c stitches; 9 c s, s c into d c stitch on the other side. Fasten off; this forms the bud. Commence again at the last s c of the stalk of leaf, s c along thirteen stitches; repeat the leaf and bud five times more; s c the remaining c s for a stalk. The wreaths under the roses at the sides are only to have five leaves and five buds on each, and require a chain of eighty-two stalks for the stem. Tack the flowers on paper wrong side up, as seen in the illustration. Tack the buds to the roses, and unite the leaves by a slight band in button-hole stitch. Tack the edges of the roses together, and the ends of the stems to the adjoining wreath; then remove the paper, and lay the bordering upon the edge of the scarf or veil, which should be of Brussels net. Sew the edge of the upper scallops of the rose to the net very firmly, and cut away the superfluous net.

Materials—One skein of cerise, one of blue fine crochet-silk, one skein of gold twist; one hank of gold beads No. 6, one ditto of silver; a gilt top and tassel will also be required

Thread the gold beads on the cerise silk, and the silver on the blue, and with the cerise make a chain of 7 stitches, unite; make 2 stitches in each stitch in the 1st round, in every alternate in the 2d, and in every third in the 3d, passing down a bead in every stitch; work thus, increasing in each stitch until there are 42 bead-stitches in the round; now decrease each division of the star, working 6 bead-stitches, 1 plain, increasing in the plain stitch; then decrease 1 bead-stitch in every round till but one remain, increasing always in the same stitch in each round; work 2 plain rounds, still increasing as before; work 1 round with gold twist, without increasing; 1 round with cerise, passing down a bead at every stitch; and 1 round again with twist. Commence with blue, and work 1 plain round. There ought now to be 64 stitches in the round; if a greater number should be found, decrease by missing a stitch as may be found necessary. This must be done in the first round worked with blue.— 2d round (with blue) . 10 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 2 bead-stitches; repeat all round.—

6th round . 1 plain, 4 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 2 beads; repeat.—

10th round . 1 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 4 beads; repeat.—

13th round . 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat,— 14th round . 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.—

17th round . Plain, decreasing by missing every 16th stitch. Work 1 round with gold, then divide the purse, and work one-half with cerise; work 8 rows, passing down a bead at every stitch, and decreasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; work the other half to correspond; sew on to the top, and finish with tassel in the centre of star.

Materials—White, and three shades of scarlet and shaded green Berlin wool; Penelope crochet No. 2.

3d row (second shade of scarlet) . 1 long worked in the centre long stitch of previous row, 5 chain; repeat.—

4th row (dark scarlet) . 3 long worked above the long, and the last and first stitches of the chain, 4 chain; repeat.—

5th row (green) . Commence in the edge stitch of third row. 5 chain, miss 3 *, 5 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat from *, and work to the end, which must be finished with 5 chain, 1 plain, worked in the third row.—

6th row (white) . Commence at the edge-stitch of the third row. 6 chain, * 5 plain worked above the 5 long of previous row, 4 chain: repeat from * to the end, and finish with 6 chain. Fasten the white wool to the second stitch of fourth row, 6 chain, 3 plain worked above the 3 long of fourth row; repeat. Pass through every second stitch of white row, and place a rosette of ribbon at the end.

Draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch. This elegant design is suitable for the centre of a book-cover, a watch-pocket, and many other purposes, which the taste of the worker may suggest.

Use cotton No. 10 for embroidering the pattern. Meshes No. 4, No. 6, and a flat mesh three-fourths of an inch in width, will be required for the edge, Commence with a foundation of 300 loops on mesh No. 4, and net till the length required is worked; then net the following edge at the sides and end; net two loops in every loop on the large mesh, making four loops in the corner loops.—

6th and 7th rows . Like 3d and 4th. Work the pattern in darning-stitch, as in illustration.

Materials—Black velvet or white satin ribbon of a very good quality, and five shades of crimson and three of green embroidery silk.

Line the ribbon with linen; draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch, shading, as taste may direct,—the leaves with the greens, and the roses with crimson, using three shades for each rose, and working first only with the lightest shades, then with the darkest only.

Materials—White or black satin; three shades of crimson, three shades of yellow, three shades of green, and two shades of olive green embroidery silk; one yard of crimson and one yard of green chenille will also be required.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch one rose with the shades of crimson, and the second with the shades of yellow; the leaves with the shades of green, and the stems with olive; work a few stitches with the shades of the roses in the centre of the rose-buds, and work the corner designs with green and olive. In the arrangement of the colours, the taste and judgment of the worker must be exercised, as much depends upon the harmoniously blending of the various shades.

Materials—Scarlet floss silk, or five shades of scarlet Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 3 and 6; cornucopia gauge, and a flat mesh, an inch in width.

The cap is worked in honeycomb netting, and the borders and rosette in plain netting. With the darkest shade make a foundation of 56 stitches on mesh No. 3, net 2 rows with each shade, increasing a stitch at the end of each row; leave one-half of the cap plain, and net a border in the following manner on the remaining loops and at the ends:—With the darkest shade net 4 loops in every loop on the flat mesh, increasing by making 6 loops in each of the three corner stitches; then on mesh No. 3, net 1 loop in each, and finish by netting a row with the next shade on the smallest mesh: this must be repeated at each side of the cap. For the second border, net 100 loops on the flat mesh on a foundation of wool, and finish to correspond with the first border. Two pieces netted in this manner are required, and they are arranged in festoons at the sides of the cap. Pass a cord the size required through the foundation-stitches, join it, and sew on a rosette made in the following manner:—With the darkest shade net 100 loops on mesh No. 3; then with the next shade net 2 rows at each side and at the ends; make this into a rosette with long ends, as in illustration.

This elegant and becoming head-dress derives its name from the beautiful sister-in-law of the Emperor of Russia, the Grand Duchess Helen, who introduced this style of coiffure at St. Petersburg.

Beautiful cabinets, work-boxes, work-tables, fire-screens, &c., may be painted in imitation of ebony inlaid with ivory by the following means:—Let your screen be made of an elegant form, but merely of common white wood or deal, prepared as below.

Composition for the Surface of Wood .—Steep one ounce of glue in a pint of cold water all night; throw off the water in the morning. Take six ounces of finest white lead in powder, mix it by degrees in a mortar, with about half a pint of cold water, till it is perfectly smooth, then place it, along with the glue, in a clean pan. Add half a pint more water; set it on the fire, stirring constantly till it boils. Let it boil three minutes; take it off, and pour it into a stone jar, and continue to stir it occasionally till cold. When cold, but before it congeals, take a clean paint-brush, and paint your screen with the composition. When it is quite dry, rub it over with sand-paper, to make it quite smooth; then give it another coat of the white composition, repeating the rubbing with sand-paper as before. Repeat this same process five or six times, until you obtain a smooth, equal, white surface. When that is accomplished, dissolve the fourth of an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water; when cold, but liquid, give the screen a coat of it with a clean brush, and do not use the sand-paper after it.

To Ornament the Screen .—Lay a sheet of black tracing-paper on the screen, with the black side downwards; then place a pattern above it, with the right side uppermost; place a weight here and there, to prevent it slipping; then trace over the outline with a rather blunt stiletto. On removing the paper, you will find the outline of the pattern transferred to the surface of the screen. Trace over the outline, and shade, in lines, with a fine camel's-hair pencil dipped in Newman's lamp-black; fill in with the same.

Varnish .—Place four ounces of rectified spirit of wine in a wide-mouthed bottle; add one ounce of gum sandarac, a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic, and a drachm of camphor, all in powder. Put a stopper in the bottle, set it near a fire, and shake it occasionally. When all the gums are quite dissolved, add one ounce of oil of turpentine; then strain through muslin into another clean, dry wide-mouthed bottle. Let it stand a day or two before using.

Mode of Varnishing .—Take a large clean new varnish-brush, dip it into the bottle, and then cover over all your screen with it. When perfectly dry, give it another coat, and so on till it has had six coats; let it remain untouched for two days; rub it smooth with sand-paper; then give it two more coats of varnish, and repeat the rubbing, being careful to wait between each coat till the last is dry, and not to rub with sand-paper sooner than two days after varnishing, and never give more than two coats of varnish in a day—one in the morning, another at night. When you think it looks clear and sufficiently thick, give it another coat without using the sand-paper after it; let it stand four days; then rub it all over with pounded rottenstone, and wipe it off with a wet cloth; after which take a little Florence oil and hair-powder, and polish with your hand.

Violet Petals .—Cast on three stitches with a bright shade of violet; knit and pearl in alternate rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row, until you have fourteen or sixteen stitches; then knit and pearl six rows alternately, without increase, and continue in knitted and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till six or eight stitches alone remain; these cast off in the plain row, taking the two last as one before you turn the last stitch over. Two petals like these are required.

Large Yellow Petal .—Take a bright, though rather deep, shade of yellow wool, split; cast on three stitches, knit and pearl in alternate rows, increasing one stitch before and one after the middle stitch in the plain row, till you have fifteen or seventeen stitches; take a higher shade of yellow, and work six more alternate plain and pearled rows, still increasing in the middle, but decreasing one stitch at the beginning of every row; change your wool for a deep violet, and continue to knit in alternate plain and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till seven stitches only remain; these cast off, taking the two last as one.

Two smaller Petals .—Exactly like the large one, but increased only to thirteen stitches. Sew a fine wire round each petal with split wool, tie the five petals together with a bit of green.

Buds .—Take eight or ten lengths of split wool, yellow and violet, place across a piece of wire, fold the wire, twist the ends, turn down the ends of wool, tie them round the wire, leaving out the length required for the bud (about a quarter of an inch); cover the stem with green wool, split; also the stem of the heartsease.

Leaves .—Begin with a shade of green wool, split as for one of the yellow petals, but you have thirteen stitches; cast off three at the beginning of the two following rows, go on increasing again to thirteen; cast off three at each end, and make thus as many scallops as will look well—in general three or four on each side make a very good-sized leaf; after the last scallops, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row, till the leaf comes to a point.

Materials—Raworth's thread No. 30, and three shades of Manlove's pink crochet thread of corresponding size.

3d round . 5 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre stitch of chain of previous round; repeat.—

7th round . 1 chain, 1 plain above the centre stitch of chain in 5th round; repeat.—

8th round (second shade of pink) . 9 chain, 1 plain, worked in the plain of last round; repeat.—

11th round . 4 chain, 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of chain of last round; repeat.—

12th round . Double crochet, increasing in every ninth stitch. Now divide the work into three parts, commence with the darkest shade, and work as follows:—Fasten on the thread three stitches from the centre of one of these divisions; make a chain of 9 stitches, 1 plain, miss 6.—

2d row . Commence one stitch from the first stitch in last row, 1 chain, 1 long in every stitch; repeat, finishing by working a stitch in advance.—

3d row . Commence as in last row, 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1, and finish as before.—

5th row . 3 chain, 1 long, miss 2; repeat, beginning and finishing as before.—

6th row . 1 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat, commencing and finishing as before. Now work the other two divisions in the same manner; after which work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round; then work a round in double crochet. This completes the centre.

4th round . 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain, 5 long worked in the following stitches: 1 plain, 7 chain, 1 plain in the centre stitch of chain, 7 chain; repeat.

Take Penelope canvass, three quarters of a yard long, half a yard wide; a piece of crimson china ribbon; one piece of gold-colour, one of shaded lilac, and a rug-needle.

Prepare the canvass by cutting away every 2 alternate threads, and draw them out the whole length of the canvass; next cut away and draw them out with tweezers, every 2 alternate threads, the whole of the width of the canvass. Next thread the rug-needle with crimson ribbon, and sew over the first 2 threads of canvass the lengthway of the canvass; when at the end, pass the needle to the next 2 threads and sew them over, taking care to keep the ribbon flat as possible; when at the top, return and cover the next two threads with the same coloured ribbon. This will make 3 stripes. Proceed the same with the gold-colour, 3 stripes; then the lilac, 3 stripes; then recommence with the crimson, and continue the same until you have the whole length finished. Next commence to sew over the same from side to side, which will form a chequered pattern, and has a rich effect. Finish round with a ruche of satin ribbon or fringe, crimson colour. If desired, can be worked with slight silk.

Materials —10 pieces of fine black crochet silk ; 2 bundles of No . 6 steel beads; Penelope crochet No . 3.

This completes the band for the arm, which must be worked on one side, detaching the silk at the end of each row. Work 4 rows in chain-stitch open crochet, making 7 loops in each chain, and missing 4 stitches in working the first row, join and work in rounds; work 2 rounds, then divide the mit in half, and leave a space for the thumb; the silk must be detached at the end of the row. Work to the centre of the back of hand, make 3 chain-stitches, pass down a bead in making the next 3 chain-stitches, crochet to the centre stitch of chain of last row; then work 3 stitches, passing down a bead at each stitch, then 3 chain-stitches; work to the end of row. Work 6 rows, increasing the number of bead-stitches by commencing at the preceding chain-stitch; then work 6 rows, decreasing as seen in illustration; the last 3 of these must be worked in rounds instead of rows; work 3 rounds in chain-stitches of 7 as before, then a round of chain-loops in each chain. Work one-half plain for the inner part of the hand, then 1 bead, 1 plain. Next round plain. Work 3 rows thus on the back of the hand; 3 bead-stitches, 3 plain stitches. Next round plain; then 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain as before, and finish with a plain round. Now work the thumb as follows:—Work a chain of 7, missing every third stitch; repeat three times, then work 5 rounds, decreasing in each round by passing the loop through the centre stitches of two of the chains; work 3 rounds without decreasing, and finish with 3 rounds of close double crochet, making every alternate stitch of the centre round a bead-stitch. Work a loop on the band, and fasten with a button.

Materials—Raworth's thread No . 30, knitting-cotton No . 10, shaded amber Berlin wool, mesh No . 6.

Commence with a foundation of 100 loops, and net till the proper length is completed. Work the pattern in darning-stitch with cotton. Net a fringe with shaded wool, making two loops in every loop, using a flat mesh two inches broad.

Materials—A quarter of a yard of pale-blue satin, one yard and one-eighth of blue silk fringe, three shades of green, and two shades of olive-green embroidery silk, and a small bundle of pearl beads.

Draw the design upon the satin, and work in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the shades of green, the stems with the shades of olive, and the grapes with the beads. Use such perfume as may be preferred, and trim round the edge with the fringe.

Materials—Canvass No. 40; scarlet, black, and white Berlin wool; fourth shade of blue, fourth ditto of green, fourth ditto of peach Berlin wool; amber floss silk, six skeins of each of the wools, and a similar quantity of silk will be required; also a piece of fine piping-cord, and emerald-green velvet ribbon.

Cut the canvass into strips 3 inches in width, and the length required; sew 14 lengths of cord upon the canvass, leaving 2 threads between each cord; the cord will cover a space of 2 threads. Leave a margin 18 threads from this, and with black work 6 stitches over the 7th and 8th cords opposite each other; with blue work 6 stitches on the same cords on the right side, and with green 6 on the left; with peach work 6 stitches on the 9th and 10th cords, above the stitches of black; and with scarlet 6 stitches on the 6th and 7th cords, underneath the black. There will now be 60 stitches worked. With white work 6 stitches on a line with each of the preceding stitches, and on the 2 cords above the stitches of peach and below the scarlet; with amber silk work 6 stitches in the same manner. This completes the first diamond. The pattern is repeated to the end of row. The spaces between the diamonds are worked as follows: With black work 6 stitches on a line with each stitch of amber; with peach work the stitches between the black on the 3d and 4th cords; on the right hand work 6 stitches with blue on the 1st and 2d cords, and on the left with green; work the centre stitches with silk. The opposite space is worked in a similar manner, substituting scarlet for peach. For a cushion it will be necessary to work 4 strips of this pattern; and, in making it up, a length of velvet ribbon of a similar width is placed between each division of work. Finish with green cord and tassels.

Centre Flower .—12 c s, unite, work into this ring 5 c s, 1 l s, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from * eleven times, finish with 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first, 5 c s.—

2d round . D c into first space, * 5 c s, d c into next space; repeat from * into every space, finish with 5 c s, s c into first d c of the round.—

The eight Leaves round this Flower .—Commence on one of the stitches at the edge of this flower, 25 c s, s c back (this is for the stripe in the centre of leaf), * 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth; repeat from * five times, which brings it to top stitch of leaf, 6 c s, d c into same stitch, 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth six times down the other side of the stripe, draw out the loop on the needle a little, pass the thread under the leaf, 1 d c round the first loop, 5 c s, d c round the next loop, * 6 c s, d c round the next; repeat from * four times, which brings it to top loop, 7 c s into same top loop, 6 c s into five more loops down the other side, 5 c s, d c into last loop, pass the thread under the leaf, d c three times round the loop next to stripe, five times round next loop, six times round every loop up to the top, 2 d c, 5 l s, 2 d c round the top loop, 6 d c round every chain of six down the other side, 5 d c round chain of 5, 3 d c round the last loop at bottom of leaf next to the stripe; fasten off. Make another leaf in the same manner at the opposite side of the centre flower, and one at an equal distance between these two; another on the other side to correspond, which will make four leaves, then work four more leaves between these 4, and the eight leaves will be finished.

For the rounds of open work proceed thus: Commence on the point of one of the leaves, work 29 c s, d c into point of next leaf; repeat this all round, not making the c s too tight.—

5th round . 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from *.—

7th round . 1 l s, 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * all round.—

8th round . D c into every stitch of last round. Work on the inside of the first round of 29 c s a ring, thus: commence on centre, c s between the leaves, 16 c s, unite on foundation-stitch, d c twenty-four times round this ring; repeat these rings between every two leaves, making eight in all.

— Commence on stitch opposite to the point of one of the large leaves. 18 c s, 1 l s into sixth stitch, * 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat three times more from *. 1 s c into foundation-stitch, then 4 d c round first loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round next three loops, 1 d c, 4 l s, 1 d c round top loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round three loops on the other side of leaf; 4 d c round last loop. Make another leaf in the same manner, beginning at the same foundation-stitch. Fasten off. Then two more leaves exactly the same, opposite the points of all the large centre leaves. Then two more leaves opposite each of the d c rings inside the open rounds (which will be at an equal distance on each side from the others). There will now be thirty-two small leaves, two and two, the upper point of each leaf to be turned outwards , and to be tacked with needle and thread to the point of the next leaf, which it will meet easily. (Care must be taken to refer to the engraving for the manner in which the mat is to be finished, as it will greatly assist the explanations.)

For the small roses between the leaves, which are made separately: 9 c s, unite, 5 c s, 1 long stitch into ring, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from * seven times. 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first 5 c s.

2d round . 1 s c round first space, 3 c s, 3 l s, into same space, * 5 c s, miss 1 space, 4 l s into next space; repeat from * all round. Finish with 5 c s, s c into third stitch of 3 c s. Fasten off sixteen roses for the round. Place one of these roses between every pair of the leaves which proceed from the same foundation, and sew it at the edge to the third scallop of the leaves; then commence between the points of the leaves which were sewn together, * 24 c s, d c into centre of edge of small rose, 24 c s, d c between the points of the leaves; repeat from * all round, then 26 d c stitches round every 24 chain.

Sprigs between the 24 C S .—18 c s, unite on twelfth. D c round this loop twenty-two times. S c up remaining c s for stalk. Fasten off, leaving an end to sew the sprig on the mat. Turn wrong side up. Commence on fifth stitch from stalk on the right-hand side of the flower, * 10 c s, unite in same stitch. Turn again. Into this circle work 18 d c stitches *. Turn wrong side up. S c up to top of ring formed by 18 c s; repeat from * to * for another ring. Turn wrong side. S c down to fifth stitch from stalk. Repeat another ring, when the work will be on the right side. Bring the cotton to the side of this last ring nearest to stalk. 13 c s, s c into top of last ring. 6 c s, s c into same stitch. 13 c s, s c into foundation close to the lower part of ring. 5 c s, s c into foundation-ring, close to centre ring, at the top. 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into foundation at bottom of ring; 5 c s, s c into foundation at lower part of next ring; 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into foundation at the other side of ring. Fasten off. Sixteen of these sprigs are required, and sixteen more small roses. Place one sprig between each of the chains of 24 d c, where they meet at the points of the leaves, and sew them by the thread which was left at the end of the stalk. Confine them to the 24 d c by the lower 13 c s. Place a small rose between each of these sprigs, fastening them together where they meet. The best way is, to cut out a circle in coloured paper, and (after the crochet work is completed) place the mat wrong side up upon it, and fasten the flowers to it and to each other, as it will then be quite flat and smooth.

Pencil the design on tissue-paper, trace this over with ink, tack the pattern thus prepared on the right side of the satin or velvet. Sew the braid on by the pattern, and when completed tear away the paper. Sew on the beads with strong sewing-silk in the spaces indicated in the design.

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The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850

THE LADY'S ALBUM OF FANCY WORK

FOR 1850, CONSISTING OF NOVEL, ELEGANT, AND USEFUL DESIGNS IN KNITTING, NETTING, CROCHET, BRAIDING, AND EMBROIDERY WITH CLEAR AND EXPLICIT DIRECTIONS FOR WORKING THE PATTERNS.

ADDRESS

CONTENTS .

EXPLANATION OF THE VARIOUS TERMS USED IN CROCHET .

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR EMBROIDERY .

THE LADY'S ALBUM OF FANCY WORK

1. FRONT FOR LADY'S CABINET. ( EMBROIDERY .)

2. COVER FOR CAKE-BASKET. ( NETTING .)

3. INFANT'S BONNET. ( CROCHET .)

4. LACE FOR POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF. ( CROCHET .)

5. ELIZABETHAN WATCH-HOOK. ( CROCHET .)

8. MUSIC-STOOL COVER. ( CROCHET )

9. COVER FOR ALBUM. ( EMBROIDERY .)

10. SERVIETTE FOR CRUET-STAND. ( CROCHET .)

11. SCREEN. ( EMBROIDERY .)

12. A LONG PURSE IN HONEYCOMB PATTERN. ( NETTING .)

13. GERMAN KNITTING-BAG. ( CROCHET .)

14. CIGAR-CASE. ( EMBROIDERY .)

15. COLLAR AU FESTON. ( EMBROIDERY .)

16. CARD-CASE. ( SCAGLIOLA WORK .)

19. CLARET-JUG MAT. ( EMBROIDERY .)

20, 21. CORNER FOR HANDKERCHIEF. ( EMBROIDERY .)

22. COVER FOR EASY-CHAIR. ( CROCHET .)

23. LADY'S RETICULE. ( CROCHET .)

24. SPECTACLE-CASE. ( SCAGLIOLA WORK .)

25. TOILET-CUSHION. ( CROCHET .)

26. BONNET-PRESERVER. ( KNITTING .)

27. SMALL OTTOMAN. ( EMBROIDERY .)

28. CARD-BASKET. ( CROCHET .)

29. RAISED CROCHET COLLAR. ( CROCHET )

31. GARNITURE FOR TOILET-BASKET. ( CROCHET .)

32. GREEK CAP. ( EMBROIDERY .)

33. FLOWER-STAND. ( CROCHET .)

34. COVER FOR TASSEL OF WINDOW-BLIND. ( CROCHET .)

35. UNDER-SLEEVE. ( CROCHET .)

36. SMOKING CAP. ( EMBROIDERY IN BRAID .)

37. BABY'S CAP. ( CROCHET .)

38. LACE FOR CAP. ( CROCHET )

39. APRON. ( EMBROIDERY .)

42. LIMERICK LACE SCARF. ( TAMBOUR .)

45. A KNITTING-BAG. ( NETTING .)

48. VASE-STAND. ( NETTING .)

49. WATCH-POCKET. ( BRAID .)

50. MITTEN. ( CROCHET .)

51. COLLAR. ( CROCHET .)

52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC-BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.( EMBROIDERY .)

53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS. ( CROCHET .)

54. "BABOCHE," OR ORNAMENT FOR CANDLES.

55. CHESS-BOARD.

56. D'OYLEY. ( CROCHET .)

57. GAUNTLET CUFF. ( CROCHET .)

58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT. ( EMBROIDERY .)

61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL. ( CROCHET APPLIQUE .)

62. CARD-PURSE. ( CROCHET .)

63. ROUND COLLAR. ( CROCHET .)

64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME. ( EMBROIDERY .)

65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS. ( NETTING .)

66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.

67. TOILET-CUSHION. ( EMBROIDERY .)

68. THE HELEN CAP. ( NETTING .)

69. SCREEN. ( INDIAN ORNAMENTAL WORK .)

70. HEARTSEASE. ( KNITTING .)

71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR-STAND. ( CROCHET .)

72. A NEW AND ELEGANT WORK FOR SOFA PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS, CARD-BASKETS, &c.( RIBBON WORK )

73. LADY'S SILK MITTEN. ( CROCHET .)

74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR. ( NETTING .)

75. SACHET. ( EMBROIDERY .)

76. PEN-WIPER. ( EMBROIDERY IN BRAID .)

77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL OR CUSHION. ( BERLIN WORK .)

78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE. ( CROCHET .)

79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER. ( EMBROIDERY IN BRAID .)

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

FOR
1850,

CONSISTING OF
NOVEL, ELEGANT, AND USEFUL DESIGNS
IN
KNITTING, NETTING, CROCHET, BRAIDING, AND
EMBROIDERY

WITH CLEAR AND EXPLICIT
DIRECTIONS FOR WORKING THE PATTERNS.