The Project Gutenberg eBook of Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-catcher After 25 Years' Experience
    
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States,
you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.

Title: Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-catcher After 25 Years' Experience

Author: Ike Matthews

Release date: December 6, 2005 [eBook #17243]
                Most recently updated: December 13, 2020

Language: English

Credits: This eBook was prepared by Les Bowler


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FULL REVELATIONS OF A PROFESSIONAL RAT-CATCHER AFTER 25 YEARS' EXPERIENCE ***





This eBook was prepared by Les Bowler.





Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-Catcher,
after 25 Years' Experience
by Ike Matthews.


[Title page image: title.jpg]




Introduction.


In placing before my readers in the following pages the results of my
twenty-five years' experience of Rat-catching, Ferreting, etc., I may say
that I have always done my best to accomplish every task that I have
undertaken, and I have in consequence received excellent testimonials
from many corporations, railway companies, and merchants.  I have not
only made it my study to discover the different and the best methods of
catching Rats, but I have also taken great interest in watching their
ways and habits, and I come to the conclusion that there is no sure way
of completely exterminating the Rodents, especially in large towns.  If I
have in this work referred more particularly to Rat-catching in
Manchester that is only because my experience, although extending over a
much wider area, has been chiefly in that city, but the methods I
describe are equally applicable to all large towns.

Yours truly,

IKE MATTHEWS.

PROFESSIONAL RAT-CATCHER,
     PENDLETON,
          MANCHESTER.




PART I.  HOW TO CLEAR RATS FROM WAREHOUSES, OFFICES, STOREROOMS, ETC.


In the first place my advice is--never poison Rats in any enclosed
buildings whatever.  Why?  Simply because the Rats that you poison are
Drain Rats, or what you call Black Rats, and you can depend upon it that
the Rats that you poison will not get back into the drains, but die under
the floor between the laths and plaster, and the consequence is that in a
few days the stench that will arise will be most obnoxious.  And there is
nothing more injurious than the smell of a decomposed Rat.

Having had a long experience in Manchester I am quite sure of this.  As
an instance, I remember a private house where I was engaged catching Rats
under a floor with ferrets.  I went as far as possible on my belly under
the floor with two candles in my hands, and I saw the ferret kill a large
bitch Rat, about six yards from me against a wall, where neither the dog
nor myself could get at it.  I finished the job and made out my bill for
my services, but in about two or three weeks after they again sent for
me, declaring they could not stay in the sitting-room on account of the
smell that arose from beneath the flooring boards.  They had in
consequence to send for a joiner; and as I knew the exact spot where the
Rat was killed I ordered him to take up the floor boards just where the
dead Rat lay, and the stench that arose from the decomposed Rodent was
bad in the extreme.  I disinfected the place, and I was never sent for
again.  This was under a cold floor, and it is much worse where there is
any heat.

Now to deal with the different methods of catching Rats.  The best way,
in my opinion, is,



TRAPPING THEM WITH STEEL SPRING TRAPS.


Whenever you are trapping, never on any consideration put bait on the
traps; always put traps in their runs, but you will find Rats are so
cunning that in time, after a few have been caught, they will jump over
the traps, and then you must try another way.  A good one is the
following, viz.:--Get a bag of fine, clean sawdust, and mix with it about
one-sixth its weight of oatmeal.  Obtain the sawdust fresh from under the
saw, without bits of stick in, as these would be liable to get into the
teeth of the trap and stop them from closing.  Where you see the runs put
a handful in say about 30 different places, every night, just dropping
the sawdust and meal out of your hands in little heaps.  That means 30
different heaps.  Do this for four nights, and you will see each morning
that the sawdust is all spread about.  Now for four more nights you must
bury a set trap under every heap of sawdust.  Thus you will have 30
traps, on each of which there is a square centre plate; you must level
the sawdust over the plate with a bit of stick, and set each trap as fine
as you can on the catch spring, so that the weight of a mouse would set
it off.  They will play in the sawdust as usual, and you will have Rats
in almost every trap.  You will find that this plan will capture a great
many of the Rodents.  I have trapped as many as 114 in one night in this
way.

In time, however, the Rats will cease to go near sawdust.  Then you must
procure a bag of fine soot from any chimney sweep, and you will find that
they will go at the soot just as keen as they did in the first instance
at the sawdust.  When they get tired of soot (which they will in time)
you must procure some soft tissue paper and cut it fine, and use that in
the same way as the sawdust and the soot.  You can also use light chaff
or hay seeds with the like result.

I must not omit to tell my readers to always trap Rats in the night, and
to go very quietly about it, for if you make much noise they will give
over feeding.  You must not go about with too big a light whilst
trapping.  You should stay at the building from dark until midnight, and
every time a Rat is caught in the trap you should go with a bull's eye
lamp, take it out of the trap or kill it, and then set the trap again, as
you have the chance of another Rat in the same trap.  From experience I
can say that you need not stay in any place after 12 o'clock at night, as
I think that the first feed is the best, and that the first three hours
are worth all the other part of the night.  You can go home at 12
o'clock, and be sure to be in the place by 6 or 7 a.m., for many a Rat
caught in the trap by the front leg will, if it gets time, eat off its
leg and get away again, and they are very cunning to catch afterwards.



NEVER HAVE YOUR TRAPS SET IN THE DAYTIME.


Handle them as little as possible.  Always catch as many Rats as you can
in your buildings in January and February, as they begin to breed in
March, and every bitch Rat means, on the average, eight more.  Also get
as much ferreting done as possible before breeding time, for a young Rat
can get into the ends of the joisting under a floor, where a ferret
cannot get near it, and the consequence is that a ferret is unable to
cope with its task.  The best thing I can advise for clearing young Rats
is a good cat, one that must not be handled nor made a pet of, but
allowed to live in almost a wild state.  A good cat can do as much, in my
opinion, in one night, when Rats are breeding, as two ferrets can do in a
day, especially in a building where there are cavity walls, as it is
impossible for a ferret to follow a Rat in such walls.

This is all the information I am able to give on the trapping of Rats--a
method I have proved by 25 years' experience to excel all others.  Still
another way of clearing the pests is as follows:--The majority of Rats
are Black, or what we call Drain Rats; if they are in a building they
will in most cases come from a water-closet.  Sometimes you will see from
the drain pipes in the water-closet, say, a six-inch pipe fitted into a
nine-inch pipe, and the joint covered round with clay, through which the
Rats eat and scratch and get into the building in great numbers in the
night, but most of them return into the drains during the day.  Now, if
it is the breeding season (about eight months out of the twelve) they
will do much damage to silk, cotton, leather, lace, and, in fact, all
other light goods.  And one would be surprised to see the quantity of
cloth, paper, etc., they will procure for their nests whilst breeding.

The way to get clear of these is to go in the day with two or three
ferrets and leave the drain pipe open.  Ferret them all back into the
drain; don't put a net over the drain for fear you might miss one or two.
If they got back into the building they would be hard to catch, as they
would not face the net again.  Then, after ferreting, make the drain
good, and if there be an odd Rat or two left in the building you will get
them in a few nights by baiting the trap.

There is another way of catching the Brown Rat which breeds under the
floor in large buildings where there are no drains.  They are very
awkward to catch.  Always have a trap or two set, but do not set them
where they feed; place them in their runs.  But there are other methods
for other Rat-infested places.  For instance, take a restaurant, where
they feed in the cooking kitchen; we will suppose they have eaten four
holes through either floor or skirting boards.  The best way to catch
these--however many holes they have leading into the kitchen--is to block
up (with tin or similar material) all the holes with the exception of
one, and let them use that one for two nights.  Then put a plateful of
good food, such as oatmeal and oil of aniseed, as far from the hole as
you can in the same kitchen; then run a small train of meal and aniseed
from the hole to the plate.  Next drive two six-inch nails in the wall,
with a long piece of string tied to the nail heads.  Put on these nails a
brick or piece of board right above the hole 2 inches up the wall.  Be
sure the nails are quite loose in the wall over the hole, and leave in
that position for two nights, so that the Rats will get used to it.  On
the night that you are going to catch them, before leaving the place
carry the string from the nail heads to the door or window; let the door
or window be closed within an inch, with the end of the string outside.
After the place has been quiet for thirty minutes return to the door or
window very quietly, and you will hear the Rats feeding.  Pull the
string, the loose nails come out of the wall and the brick or board drops
over the hole.  You can then go in, close the door, turn up the gas and
catch or kill them at your leisure, as they cannot get back again.

By this method I may mention that I have caught a great number of Rats,
and it is quite possible to clear a place in this manner: that is, if
they do not come out of the drains.  I have caught upwards of 103 in six
nights in this way.  The best time to catch Rats in any building is
always at night, and always about half-an-hour after the place has been
closed, as Rats are generally more adventurous to come for their first
feed.  Always go about as quietly as possible.

In some of the very old Manchester buildings that were built in the days
before drain plans had to be submitted to the corporation, one finds
under the cellar floors old-fashioned brick and flag drains (better known
as "spit" drains), that were left in when the place was built.  Once the
Rats get in these disused drains all the professional Rat-catchers in
England could not clear them without pulling the building down.  The Rats
have, by some means, got out of the main sewer, probably by the bursting
of a sewer into one of these disused dry brick drains.  It is then
impossible to get underground to see where they have got into the dry
drain, and the only thing that can be done in a case of this sort is to
engage a professional Rat-catcher occasionally, and keep two or three
good cats to keep the Rats down.  These places as a rule are more plagued
with them when it is very wet weather and there are floods running.  This
is the best time to catch them, as they are all under the floor of the
building, and are very easy to catch in the night with the traps.

As a rule the Black or Drain Rats feed only in the night, very rarely in
the day, as they are of a dirty nature, and prefer being in the drains.
In my opinion the Black Rat is more vicious than the Brown.

There is another Rat I call the Red Rat, which is akin to the Brown Rat.
You will always catch these at a tannery, or about kennels, where hounds
are kept, and they generally feed on horseflesh or offal.  Red Rats are
the "gameist" Rats I know, for whatever kind of Rats are put into the
store cage, these Red Rats kill them the first night they are left quiet.

I may describe another mode of catching Rats.  In any Rat-overrun
warehouse, storeroom, or cellar, where there is a deal of rubbish such as
packing cases, wrappers, waste paper, etc., throw a lot of food, say
oatmeal or soaked bread, carelessly amongst the cases or rubbish and let
the Rats have a full week's feeding at their leisure, and then if you
know the holes round the floor wherefrom they come, go in some night as
quick as possible, turn up the lights, run to the three or four holes,
and block them up with pieces of rag, etc.  Now as all the Rats will not
run out of the packing cases or waste paper, but will hide amongst the
same, this is the time to take a good terrier dog or two with you, and to
have a bit of sport.  Let one dog hunt among the cases, etc., and hold
the other, for the Rats will soon make for the holes, but the rags
preventing their escape you will catch and kill a great many by this
means.

It should be stated here that as Rats are very cunning, it takes a lot of
study, dodging, and experience to be able to rid them entirely.  When you
are feeding Rats anywhere, never feed them with other than soft stuff,
which you can squeeze through your fingers, for if you feed them with
anything lumpy, they will carry pieces into their holes and eat at their
leisure.



FERRETING.


Ferreting is a very good plan for destroying Rats in cottage houses,
stables, hotels, etc., as it can be done in the day, but in buildings,
say five or six storeys high you cannot ferret very well as you cannot
tell where to set your nets.  The only way to ferret a large building is
to ferret one floor at once, and always start at the top storey first.
The majority of floors are laths and plaster.  This is what the Rat
likes, especially the Brown Rat, and there are more nests found in these
places than anywhere else.  To ferret thoroughly in such places you will
require to have a board up at each end of the floor: the two end boards
that run crossways with the joist; then you must have a man to put the
ferret in at one end, and ferret one joist at a time; have a net set at
the other end.  The best way at the catching end is to have a long sheet
net about a yard wide, and the full length of the boards that are up, for
sometimes under the boards the Rats can get out of one joist into
another, and if you use the long net you can catch them whichever joist
they bolt at.

Now we will suppose you are ferreting a seven-storey building, which
might occupy three or four days.  If you have ferreted two stories the
first day, during the night the Rats that have not been ferreted on the
lower stories may get back again to the top storey.

How to prevent this happening I will give you a plan of my own, which I
don't think any Rat-catcher but myself has ever employed.  The course of
action--a rather expensive one I admit--is the following: While you have
the boards up you must go to the druggist and get two shillings' worth of
cayenne pepper, and put it into a pepper duster.  Scatter the cayenne
along the boards and joist where you have had the long sheet net, and
also along the other end of the joist where you put the ferrets in, and
you will find that under no consideration will Rats face the cayenne
pepper.  Cayenne is alright for any dry place and will last a long time,
but it will not do in any water closets or any damp places, as dampness
takes all the nature out of the cayenne.

After ferreting in any kind of building, always go carefully round the
outside, and see that there are no broken air grids, or broken cellar
windows, as these are likely ways that the Rats get into the building at
first.  When ferreting always be careful how you set your nets, and be
extremely quick on the Rats when they bolt, for sometimes if they get
back they will face the ferret before they will bolt again; then the
ferrets kill them under the floors, and this as in the case of poisoning
them is liable to cause an abominable smell, more especially where heat
is near.

In the whole of my experience of Rat-catching, which is a lengthy one, I
never gave a guarantee to clear a place completely, in Manchester or any
other town where so many large buildings are so close together.  And let
me show the reason for this.  Take Cannon Street, Manchester, as an
illustration.  Here are six or eight different firms in one block of
buildings.  Now, suppose four of these firms are suffering from the
damage the Rats are doing.  Well, one or two of these firms may go to the
expense of having the Rats cleared away.  But between the two buildings
there may be a hardware business or ironmonger's shop, where Rats cannot
do any harm to their goods.  The owners of these shops will not go to the
expense of having Rats caught, nor will they let us go into their shops
at midnight; therefore the result is the Rat-catcher in his trapping and
ferreting is limited to these two places, and all he can do is to catch
some and drive the rest into the hardware shop.  When under the floors in
such places one finds there has been so many alterations made at
different times that one joist may be a foot or six inches below the
other, and when the Rats are completely driven out of these places it
would require joiners and bricksetters to work for weeks under the floors
to stop the Rats returning.  And most firms will not go to this expense.
I only give my readers this as an illustration of what has often happened
with me, and to show why I never guarantee to clear Rats completely in
large towns.  If they are in a private house, stable, greenhouse, or any
block of houses, of say five or six, I might then, after looking through,
give a guarantee to clear them completely.

These are the fullest details I can give you, and if you will put any of
the ways I have mentioned into practice you will find that they are all
successful, especially the covering of traps.  I can give you just one
more instance in Manchester, where I was engaged.  The workpeople had
been tormenting the Rats with traps, not knowing how to set them.  They
sent for me, and on my looking round the place I knew there was a lot of
Rats.  I submitted my price to do the job, and when I went down one night
with 40 traps, dog, and two ferrets I thought I should catch 20 or 30
Rats, but I found that they had plagued them so much with their attempted
trapping that I only caught three in the whole night.  This place
belonged to a limited company, and when I went before the committee the
next morning they were not satisfied.  I told them that their own
workpeople had tormented the Rats so much with traps that the Rats would
not go near one.  I then told the committee that I would still stick to
my terms, but I would leave the job over for a fortnight.  Now during
that fortnight I went down a good many times, and laid the sawdust as I
have already described, and thus got the Rats used to it.  The first
night that I went catching I took with me 33 traps.  I had them all set
by 8-30 p.m., and by 12-30 a.m. I had trapped 45 Rats; the next night 31
Rats; and before I completed the job, with the trapping and the other
ways that I have mentioned, I caught 183 Rats!  This I give merely as an
illustration to show the necessity of engaging an experienced man to
catch Rats--that is, if you want them caught.  And to confirm the
statements above, I shall be most happy to supply privately the name and
place of the firm, and also to give a personal interview if necessary.

And now a word or two respecting the different ways in which Rat-catchers
are treated.  Many people think that a Rat-catcher is favoured if they
give him permission to catch Rats on their farms or round the banks of
their corn or wheat fields.  Well, on some occasions I grant this may be
a favour, for I have seen when I have had an order in hand for about 10
dozen Rats, and have had only a day or two in which to get them.  Such
are the only times and circumstances when a Rat-catcher gives his
services gratis, and simply because he wants the live Rats.  Most farmers
will send you word when they are threshing their corn, and then the value
of the Rats are worth the day's work to the Rat-catcher.

This is all right as far as it goes, but when one comes to consider the
yearly expenses of the Rat-catcher it will be found that they are very
heavy.  Now, first of all it will cost, at the least, 5 pounds annually
for the wear and tear of traps alone, then there is the wear and tear of
nets; two dog licences; always three or four ferrets to keep (and ferrets
are often lost down drains or killed by Rats); also sundry other
expenses, such as store cages, etc.  Then, again, the Rat-catcher always
has to pay a man to help him.

I don't call Rat-catching a trade only: I maintain that it is a
profession, and one that requires much learning and courage.  I have
found this out when I have been under a warehouse floor, where a lot of
Rats were in the traps, and I could not get one man out of 50 to come
under the floor and hold the candle for me, not to mention helping me to
take the live Rats out of the traps.  I just relate this because at some
places where we go and where we catch perhaps 30 Rats, the first thing
they say when the bill is presented is "Why, you have got 15s. worth of
live Rats!"  They don't think of the damage 30 Rats can do to fancy
goods, nor do they consider the evil smells that men have to tolerate
under the floors or from the bad drains.

I could relate many interesting anecdotes of what I have seen and heard
about Rats, but I fear its perusal might take up too much of my readers'
time.  There is, however, one thing I will mention.  I dare say you have
heard of Rats running about in "swarms" in the night.  Do not believe it.
In my whole experience I have never been so fortunate as to meet a
"swarm" of these, when I have had an empty cage on my back, and an order
for 12 dozen live Rats at 5s. per dozen.  When trapping at farms on a
moonlight night I have seen a train of Rats almost in single file going
from a barn to a pit or brook to drink, and then I have simply run a long
net all along the barn very quickly, sent my dog round the pit and caught
all the Rats in the net when they ran back to get in the barn.  For in
these places you must be as cunning as the Rats to catch them.  The
quickest way for a farmer to get rid of Rats is to run a long trail of
good oatmeal outside his barn doors, and shoot them on a moonlight night.
I have seen 11 killed at a shot in this way.  They will stay eating the
oatmeal because they cannot carry it away.  At farms or out-houses you
might poison Rats round a pit or along brook sides where they go to
drink, although I don't believe in poisoning, as one never knows where it
ends--the Rats being likely to carry the poisoned food about, and then
dogs, hens, pigs, pigeons, etc., may pick it up.

There may be a few more ways of catching Rats than I have enumerated, but
I think I have given the best ways in detail.  Some people think that to
use



THE MONGOOSE


is very good, but I think that the mongoose is no better than a good fox
terrier dog or a good cat, the only advantage in the mongoose being that
all the Rats it kills it will bring back dead to its habitation, and that
stops the dead Rats from smelling under the floors.  I think that the
mongoose is not half so sly or sharp as a good cat, and a mongoose,
moreover, has to be taught how to kill a Rat (just the same as a dog).  I
am fortunate in having actually seen a mongoose and a Rat put alive in a
tub together, and the mongoose would not even look at the Rat.  And I
maintain that the mongoose cannot compare with the ferret anytime, for
the simple reason that a small ferret can get anywhere that a Rat can,
whilst the mongoose must wait until the Rat comes out to feed.  For
instance, if a board of a floor be left up for a mongoose to get under
the floor, it can only get into one of the joists; but a ferret can
follow a Rat wherever it goes.  Then again, the Rats can smell a mongoose
even more strongly than they can smell a cat.  So these facts prevent my
recommending a mongoose on any account.  I have also heard of people
experimenting with different sorts of



DRUGS AND CHEMICALS


for enticing Rats out of their holes.  I hope none of my readers will be
attracted with this device.  I hold that there is nothing that will tempt
a Rat from its hole like hunger.  The nearest approach that I have found
to entice the Rodent out of its hole is oil of aniseed or oil of rhodium,
but the latter is expensive.  I can rely best on oil of aniseed, because
I have often successfully tried it in experiment upon the plate of a set
trap.  I have placed only three or four drops of oil of aniseed upon the
plate of a set trap without bait, and often the trap has closed and
trapped the Rat by the nose; so that it will be seen that the Rat must
have been licking the plate, or it could not be caught in that manner.  I
have also frequently noticed when I have set, say, 20 traps covered with
meal and sawdust mixed, that if I have put only two drops of oil of
aniseed on half the traps I should find next morning on looking at the
traps that most Rats are in those in which I had placed the aniseed.  I
think that oil of rhodium and oil of aniseed are very good to drop on the
traps after setting, or to mix with the stuff with which the traps are
covered.

There is also another way of bolting Rats.  Sometimes when the ferret is
put under a boarded floor, all the Rats will run together and pack
themselves in a heap at the end of a joist.  When the Rats pack
themselves on each other thus, the ferret on reaching them will tackle
only one at a time.  You can always tell when this happens by the ferret
working a long time and bolting no Rats.  Now, immediately you notice
this, put your mouth near the hole where you have put the ferrets in, and
make a squealing noise with your mouth to imitate a squealing Rat.  This
causes the heap of Rats at the end of the joist to disperse through fear,
and when they get running about they will bolt into the net.  Many times
I have not had a bolt for half-an-hour and when I have squealed at the
hole I have had four or five Rats in the nets at once.

These are some of the methods of clearing Rats from various places, and
from experience I think they excel all others.




PART II.  HOW TO KEEP AND WORK FERRETS.


The first necessity in ferret-keeping is that they shall be kept in
hutches or "cotes," as they are commonly called.  Care must always be
taken to have their places well swilled with carbolic water, and then
allowed to thoroughly dry before whitewashing the inside, which is also
essential to keep them healthy.  This should be done at least four times
a year.  Always have your hutches leaning from the wall, so that wet or
refuse will not lodge, for when the bottom of a hutch is always wet it is
liable to give the ferrets a disease called foot rot, which is very
frequent where ferrets are neglected.  Always keep the feeding part of
the hutch well covered with sawdust.

In feeding ferrets for the purpose of Rat-catching, never do so before
going out with them; I think it is quite sufficient to feed them every 24
hours.  If you feed them oftener they are liable to get too fat, and also
lazy and unwilling to work as they should.  The best food you can give
them is bread and milk, and occasionally a little raw liver.  Mix the
bread and milk with a little hot water, stir well with a spoon or squeeze
through your fingers, so that the ferrets will have to eat it where you
feed them; if not they will carry the large pieces of bread that are wet
into the corners of the sleeping place, which would soon cause that part
of the hutch to smell very sour and become injurious to the health of the
ferret, especially where four or five are kept together, as they are of a
very perspiring nature.  Always give them plenty of room to run about
when you can; if you don't they are likely to take cramp.

Ferrets are usually subject to distemper.  The first symptom is the
ferret's neglect of its food.  When you see this you will observe a
little matter at the corner of the eyes, and the ferret will have a
slight running at the nostrils.  Immediately you see these symptoms
separate that ferret from the others, as this is, I think, the worst
disease one has to contend with.

In the whole of my ferret-keeping experience I have found distemper, if
caught in time, can be cured; but if it gets too far I know of no cure
for it.  I have known a gamekeeper to have dogs with the distemper, and
he has not touched his ferrets or handled them at all during the time his
dogs were bad, yet a week afterwards his ferrets caught the disease.  He
tried all the remedies he knew of, but in 14 days 12 hitherto good,
strong, healthy ferrets died: all he had.  This will show at once that
the disease is very contagious.  The moment you see signs of distemper
coming on feed the ferret as little as possible.  Give it as little to
eat as will just keep life in it, for in feeding the ferret you also feed
the disease.  When you have kept the food from it is the time to start
curing if possible.  Now, from experience the first thing I recommend is
to sweat the disease out of it, and I find the best way to do this is as
follows:--Get an old bucket with a few one-inch holes bored in the
bottom, and almost fill it with good new straw horse-droppings; put a
little hay on the top of the droppings, and then put the ferret on the
hay.  Place or hang the bucket over a boiler or on the mantelpiece, and
let the kettle steam under the bucket, say for 30 minutes, and you will
find the steam and the ammonia from the droppings will together sweat the
disease out of the ferret; then you can start feeding it again.  Feed it
with something substantial, such as the jelly from stewed cowheels; give
them the jelly only, not the meat; and you will have a good result.  Also
give them a teaspoonful of cream.  This is the one and only cure for
distemper.

Another disease in ferrets, especially young ones, is what I call "red
mange."  This starts always under the belly, and you will find that the
skin becomes very red and speckled.  This is easily remedied by the
simple process of washing in lukewarm water and rubbing with sweet oil
and black sulphur.  The same mixture will answer for "foot rot" if rubbed
well into the paws.  The general cause of this latter disease is neglect
of the ferrets and the hutches not being cleaned out regularly.

I think the best bedding for ferrets is good oat straw, fresh every
fortnight.  Throw the straw in carelessly, and the ferrets will make
their own beds.  When breeding ferrets, never go near them more than you
can help, as they are of a wild nature and liable to destroy their young.
When you know a Jill or bitch ferret has young, give her a little extra
good food, but don't interfere with the young ones on any account, and if
you want to give her a little extra bedding put the straw in the same
place as the food, and she will take it into the sleeping place herself.
It is advisable not to touch the young ones for five weeks, or better
still leave them until they come out to feed themselves; and when running
about, if there be a good number, say nine or ten, in the lot, it is a
good plan to remove them into a larger place for sleeping, as young
ferrets are very liable to catch the red mange, which arises from too
many being together and sweating very much.



WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR RAT-CATCHING


always work them unmuzzled.  Make as little noise as possible, as Rats
are very bad to bolt sometimes.  Never grab at the ferret as it leaves
the hole, nor tempt it out of the hole with a dead Rat.  The best way is
to let the ferret come out of its own choice, and then pick it up very
quietly, for if you grab at it, it is likely to become what we call a
"stopper;" and never on any account force a ferret to go into a hole.



WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR RABBIT-SHOOTING


always muzzle them.  The old-fashioned style of muzzle is, I think, the
best, that is, made with string.  I don't approve of wire muzzles, as
they are liable to catch against tree roots and bits of sharp stones, and
from experience I find the ferret works much better with the string
muzzle.

There is one way of working ferrets when rabbit-shooting which, if
followed, I think would lead to a better day's shooting.  You will often
see the ferrets stick up with the rabbits.  Now, in most cases the
gamekeeper or his man working the ferrets will often cut open a dead
rabbit and put the paunch to the burrow.  I quite agree as to the
desirability of this to get the ferrets out, but I say that the man using
the ferrets ought never to touch the paunch, as the ferrets will not work
half so well after he has the smell of the paunch on his hands.

Another bad plan is that of throwing a dead rabbit into the burrow so
that the ferret will follow it out.  The best plan is to let the ferret
get clear of the hole, and then pick it up quietly.  If you will break
your ferrets in in this manner you will never have any trouble with them
afterwards.

When ferrets are conveyed about for the purpose of rabbiting, boxes are
much better to use than bags, as the ferrets then get a better chance of
resting.  If bags be used you disturb the ferrets' rest and position each
time you remove one.  Take care to observe this and it will result in a
good day's sport.

Always take your ferrets home as quickly as possible after a day's work.

Ferrets kept only for rabbit-shooting should always be fed as soon as the
day's work is over, but they must not have more food till the same time
the following day.  If fed in this way regularly you will find that they
will work very well.  It is also advisable to let them drink at a stream
when they have worked about three hours.

When ferrets have been fast in a rabbit burrow, their paws may be full of
down with scratching at the rabbits.  Always remove this before placing
them to another burrow.  Each time you handle the ferret see that the
muzzle is alright, and in muzzling with string great care should be taken
to remove the long hair on the snout from under the string; otherwise the
ferret may experience a tickling sensation, and not work so well as it
should; see also that the string is tied tightly around the ferret's
neck; if not it can easily pull off the muzzle with its paws.

Whenever a ferret is severely bitten by a Rat the best course to take
immediately you get it home is to bathe the wound in clean luke-warm
water.  See that all the dirt is removed, and then apply a few drops of
sweet oil to the wound.  Repeat this every four hours, until the wound is
healed, but until then do not work the ferret lest more dirt gets into
the wound.  My experience proves this to be the best way to cure a ferret
when it has received a severe Rat-bite.

It is also a good plan occasionally (say once a fortnight) to skin a nice
young Rat and give it to the ferret.



SUITABLE DOGS.


And now a word or two as to what is a good dog for waterside hunting, or
working with the ferrets.  I recommend a cross-bred dog, but I find that
it is always better to have the pointer breed in it, whatever other breed
you get, because the pointer always has the nose or scent.  Pointer and
Airedale would be very good, or pointer and Irish terrier.  I have often
noticed that pure-bred dogs are not much good for hunting in buildings or
rivers.  I have frequently seen a cross-bred dog stand at one side of the
river, and if the wind has been in his favour he has winded his nose
across the river, and I have sent him over and he has turned a Rat out,
bolted it into the water, and killed it.

The best precaution to take in breaking a dog to Rat-catching and
waterside hunting (especially if it be a puppy) is to never allow anybody
but yourself to have anything to do with it, it being the worst thing
possible to let a working dog have too many masters.  Break it in to the
ferrets first, and then it is a good plan to go up the river banks, with
either a dead Rat or rabbit skin, letting the dog play with it for a
while, and then burying it about 18 inches in the river bank; or you may
pull up a clod and put it under, only you must not let the dog see where
you place it.  Then take the dog with you near to where the rat or skin
is buried, and you will soon see that the dog knows its work.  Do this a
few times, and you will see that once the dog finds the dead Rat or the
skin it will never forget.  The younger the dog the better, the right age
to break a puppy this way being about four or five months.  Break it in
for taking to the water at the same time.  If you want a good working dog
always keep it on the chain when at home, and feed it at the same time as
the ferrets, but do not over-feed it; also give it one dose of castor oil
or syrup of buckthorn every 14 days.  I recommend this because you never
know the nasty poisonous stuff that the dog gets on its stomach from the
dirty brook and river sides.

Let me add that all I have written about ferrets and dogs are not given
merely from hearsay, but are the facts derived from study and experience
during 25 years of dog and ferret-keeping.




PART III.  THE HABITS OF RATS.


Rats breed very quickly.  This I have often proved by visiting a given
haunt for many years together.  I remember an instance in point one June,
when out with dog and ferrets.  The dog made a set under the root of a
tree.  I put the ferret in and it bolted eight young Rats, nearly half
grown, still suckling the bitch Rat.  When the old Rat bolted my dog
killed it, and whilst the dog was shaking it I found she was very heavy
in young again.  This, therefore, will prove how quickly Rats breed.

Another result of my observation may be of interest to my readers.  After
removing a lot of old rubbish when ratting I came upon a nest of just-
born Rats, and, in curiosity, I cut the tails off the lot, and then put
the young Rodents back, leaving the nest undisturbed.  When I returned
next day, I found the old Rat had carried all her young away, and, later,
I found the same tailless lot in another part of the building, and, after
disturbing them again, I found the following day that the bitch Rat had
killed every one by eating off their heads.  This destruction of the
offspring I have witnessed on more than one occasion.  The old bitch Rat
has always killed them in the same way by eating off their heads.

I must not forget to tell you of the young Rat's dread of the ferrets.  I
have often seen when the ferrets have been put in the hole the young Rats
(not many days old and their eyes yet unopened) creep out of the hole.
This is a proof that the smell of the ferrets has a tendency to bolt
Rats, either young or old.

Old Rats are very bold whilst suckling their young.  I have seen them
very venturesome to get to water, and more eager for water than for food.
I have often traced their runs a long way for water, and noticed that
when crossing a field to get to a pit or river they never walk, but are
always on the run; and in the summer, when they reach the pit, they not
only drink, but often swim about.  I have frequently watched them
swimming on a moonlight night, but they generally go back to the
buildings in the early morning, especially in the winter months.

Another habit I have often noticed.  Take a farm, or any place where
there are many Rats, and it will be always found that when a Rat gets
very old it becomes very greyish in colour and rather scabbed, and its
hair comes off, mostly on the back.  The healthy Rats will then drive the
old Rat away, and these scabby old Rats may be caught by themselves in
other parts of the buildings; and, further, I often notice that if the
ferrets are bitten with these old Rats, they "take bad ways."  I never
put such Rats with the others nor allow my dog to kill them.  I would
advise any gentleman having a dog he values never to let it touch one of
these old scabby Rats, as it may prove injurious to the health of the
dog.

It is surprising how far Rats will travel in the night.  I have traced
their tracks from a stackyard over two or three fields to a farm to get
to their food.  And you will always find that they have one time for
feeding, which is as soon as it is dusk, the young Rats being the most
venturesome for their food, always coming out first.

Rats, especially stackyard ones, are of a very clean nature.  You will
find that after they have had their first feed they diligently wash
themselves.  These Rats feed on nothing but good stuff, such as wheat,
corn, and meal; and from experience I find that if a man is bitten on the
hand by one of these Brown or Stack Rats it never "takes bad ways," but,
if bitten by a dirty Drain Rat, then whether he cauterises or bathes the
wound is no matter, it is sure to "take bad ways."  I think the reason of
this is because the Drain Rat, when it cannot get anything else to eat,
exists on the worms and slugs, and this, I think, causes the teeth to
become more venomous.  When bitten in this way blood poisoning is very
likely to ensue.  Indeed, you must understand that the teeth of a full-
grown Rat are quite half-an-inch long, and the jaw is very strong, so
that if you are bitten on the finger it is almost sure to penetrate to
the bone.  I have known a good many cases of blood poisoning through Rat-
bites.

The damage Rats can do to property, commodities, etc., is almost
incredible.  I have had so many examples of this that I scarcely know
which to submit as illustration.  I think the worst case I have seen was
where they gnawed a hole half way through a 2-1/4 inch lead pipe, and
often I have known them to bite through a one-inch lead pipe.  The worst
damage is done when they get under the flag floors of cottage houses out
of the drains.  They scratch the soil from beneath the flags, which then
sink, and the consequent stench from the drains is abominable,
jeopardising the health of the tenants.  I have seen a great many of
these cases in the poorer parts of Manchester.  The damage the Rats will
do in the silk and similar trades, to the goods of merchants, or in the
grocery business, is enormous, and not so much by reason of what they
actually eat as by what they carry away, which is often ten times as much
as they eat.  I have often proved this when ferreting at a wholesale
grocery warehouse.  When we have taken up the boards between the laths
and plaster we have found the ceiling almost full of lump sugar, nuts,
candles, etc., which have been there for years, hoarded by the Rats.  Now,
this all means heavy loss, and that is why I say that any business man so
suffering ought to engage the services of a professional Rat-catcher once
a year in order to keep the Rats down, and catch as many as possible
before they begin breeding.

Another Rat habit may be noticed where the Rodents are accustomed to have
their holes and runs among flags and stones.  If they find any soft wood
such as pine or white deal, they will nibble at it until it is eaten
through.  I have often known them to eat right through the legs of tables
in the middle of cooking kitchens.  This, I think, they do simply to keep
their teeth clean and in order; I have known half-grown Rats to do the
same.

Rats can exist a long time on herbage, if they can get nothing more
palatable.  It is a very common thing to find Rats in the rabbit burrows
when ferreting; in fact, I have seen, not once, but many times, Rats,
rabbits, and weasels all bolt from the same burrow.  I have also
unearthed a Rat and a rabbit together out of one single burrow.

Now as to keeping Rats in store cages at home.  Look well after them, and
I think it is possible to keep them alive for quite a year; but if you
keep, say, 20 in one store cage and neglect their feeding,, you will find
that when hungry in the night they will kill the weakest of their number
and eat it, sometimes even eating two or three in one night, leaving the
skin as clean as if a man had skinned them.  It is always the best plan
to put the Rats in different cages, according to their sizes.  The young
ones together, the old ones together, and the middle-aged ones together,
as they keep themselves much cleaner when thus divided, and do not fight
so much as they would otherwise.  They must also be kept in a warm place;
if not, they soon have cramp.  Also keep them in a dark place and see
that they have plenty of water; sprinkle them now and then with it so
that they will wash themselves.  It is astonishing what a hungry Rat will
do.  I have seen them in the summer at dusk run at an old hen with her
chickens under her, and almost as quick as I tell it, the Rat has
snatched a live chicken and run with it under a pigsty floor.

I have known them to take half-grown young ducks from the water side.  I
remember once ferreting round a pit, near a barn, and when I put my
ferret in the hole, it pulled out two dead chickens and three
middle-sized dead ducks, and behind them, not more than a yard deep in
the pit bank, was an old Rat.  I have also known them to get into the
coops where a gamekeeper was rearing his pheasants, and to kill nine
young ones in a single night all from under the same hen.

Rats are also fond of eggs.  I have read of many ways in which Rats take
eggs, but in my quarter-of-a-century's experience of Ratting I never saw
Rats take eggs save in one way, and that is, dragging or rolling them
along the floor with their front paws, until they get them to the mouth
of the hole.  I remember one place where I was ferreting.  There was an
old cellar, the door of which at the top of the steps had to my knowledge
been nailed up two or three years.  Out of the hen house the Rats had
eaten a hole at each side of the cellar door at the bottom.  One day we
burst open the door, went into the cellar (where it was impossible for a
hen to get whilst the door was closed) and beneath the bottom step we
caught two Rats.  On lifting the flag at the bottom of the steps, we
found 15 whole eggs, some good and some bad, all of which I am quite
satisfied the Rats had carried down those nine stone steps!  How they had
done so I cannot explain, but content myself with stating only the plain
facts of my own personal observation.

Rats are also very cunning in the water, say a pit or a river.  Now, a
Rat can exist in water for at most about seven minutes, and you will find
when a dog is swimming after a Rat that the Rat is watching the dog all
the time, for as soon as the dog gets within a yard of the Rat the latter
will dive under water and come to the surface again about 15 yards away.
When the dog has tired the Rat out with swimming, you will very often see
the Rat dive again and come up very quietly and just put its nose out of
the water, or rest its head on a floating leaf.  It is so cunning that it
will remain still there, and if the leaf or reed gives way it will come
up at the water side and just thrust out its nose to breathe.  By this
means the dog loses full scent of the Rat.

I have also noticed how useful are the Rat's front paws and tail.  I have
seen a Rat on the top of a swill tub at a pigsty, when the swill has been
about ten inches from the top of the tub.  The Rat was too cunning to
jump down on the wet swill and drown, but I saw it reach as far down the
inside of the tub as possible with its front paws and scrape the grease
from around the sides!  I have also seen the same Rat, when unable to
scrape any further down the tub sides, turn round, clutch the top of the
tub with its front paws, dip its tail into the swill, and then gain the
top of the tub and commence licking its tail.

I have also tried an experiment with the same tub, which consisted of
covering the top of the wet swill with bran, which floated on the
surface, and placing a bit of lumpy swill in the middle of the bran, in
the hope that the Rat would jump on the bran in the expectation of
getting at the swill in the middle.  However, it did not do so, no doubt
instinctively guided against the danger.

I have also watched Rats run round a set wire or cage trap for a full
hour.  I have seen them go half way in and out again, look at the bait
and never touch it, but go away and never return to the same trap that
night.  These examples show the cunning instinct of Rats.

There is, however, one power that the Rat is not favoured with, and I am
afraid if they were they would be a greater pest.  It is the ability of
high jumping.  A Rat cannot, I think, jump higher than three feet six
inches, and will have to be very hungry before doing that to obtain food.

Many people may not know how fierce Rats are when fighting.  Let me
instance.  I have often taken, one in each hand, two good Rats from my
cage before a hundred spectators and set the Rats at each other on the
top of a table.  To see them fight would be surprising.  They will fight
like two bulldogs.  When they have got a grip of each other with their
teeth I have taken away my hands, and they have stuck and shook one
another for at least half-a-minute, although you must understand that the
moment they are loose of one another they are off if you don't catch them
again.

There are several other cunning ways of Rats which I can scarcely
explain.  One must be amongst them regularly to know their wonderful ways
and habits.  Yet another little incident, in conclusion, may be of
interest.  I once called at a farm where they had been threshing a wheat
stack.  A Rat-catcher had been there but without a dog, and when I
arrived two hours afterwards my dog made a set, and commenced scratching
amongst the old chaff left at the bottom of the stack, and to the
astonishment of myself and the farmer I pulled out of the hole where the
dog was scratching 73 live Rats!  The other Rat-catcher, who had been at
the threshing all day, had caught only 14 Rats.  This will serve to show
that a Rat-catcher must not be without a good dog.

And now, respecting the ways and habits of Rats I think I have given my
readers interesting and varied illustrations of what I have seen and
experienced during my time.




PART IV.  LIFE OF THE RAT-CATCHER.


This work will not be complete if I do not deal with the Rat-catcher's
life.  The profession is a peculiar and exciting one, but all right if
pursued in the right way.  Although the calling takes one into dirty and
obnoxious places, there is no reason why the Rat-catcher should not
always appear respectable.  The Rat-catcher has many temptations to
dishonest conducts, for instance, when Rat-catching on a farm or private
estate where there are numerous rabbits and game.  It looks rather hard
lines for the Rat-catcher to come off a farm with his cage full of Rats
and see rabbits running about whilst he has all the requisites in his
possession for catching them; and yet he must not touch one, but go home
and merely reflect on what a good Sunday's dinner he is leaving behind.
This I have experienced many a time, but I have always found even from
the business view-point that the old advice still remains true, "Honesty
is the best policy."  Leaving the rabbits to themselves has always turned
out to be the best, for to take a rabbit worth a shilling, and get caught
in the act, means that you can never go on the same estate again.  And
from that same estate you might have got 500 Rats in a year, worth four
shillings a dozen.

I must also put in a good word here for the gamekeepers.  My opinion is
that if you go on a keeper's ground and do what is right, you will be
able to go again, for in the whole of my experience never having carried
any nets but Rat nets when on private estates, I have the consolation of
knowing that I should always be welcome on going again to such estates.

Of course there are inconveniences that the Rat-catcher has to put up
with.  Whatever engagements he takes in a town, the only time he can
catch Rats with a good result is in the night.  On one occasion, when
going round with my bull's-eye lamp to examine the traps, I was taken for
a burglar by the policeman on the beat, and he doubted me so much that he
would not release me until I had shown him my cage with Rats in and my
traps set all over the place.  Then he took almost as much interest in
the catching of Rats as myself, and also brought in the other policemen
who were outside waiting for me to attempt an escape.  Ever after that,
when I had a night's engagement in any town, I always went to the police
station to tell the man on that beat where I was.

It behoves the Rat-catcher to be always attentive to his customers,
those, I mean, who want live Rats wherewith to try their dogs.  Amongst
mine I have the honour to include clients of highest rank and position,
barristers, magistrates, solicitors and a host of sporting gentry.  If
the Rat-catcher's efforts commend themselves to such gentlemen, and he
always maintains a respectable appearance, he will obtain some very nice
outings in the country.  Oft-times a party of gentlemen have sent for me
in the summer, having arranged with me to bring four or five ferrets and
Ratting appliances, and we have gone 50 miles up the country.  They would
bring their terrier dogs, and we would hunt all along the brooks and
rivers, and round the corn and wheat fields, putting the Rats we caught
into the cage, and after lunch, taking the Rats to a meadow and coursing
them with their dogs, which I think it real good sport.  We would put up
at the best hotels and repeat the procedure next day, very often taking a
drag or coach, and driving ten or a dozen miles farther up the country.

I can assure my readers that the Rat-catcher is well remunerated for the
trouble he undertakes in these cases, and moreover this is the class of
people he requires to fraternise with.  There is always a plentiful
supply of "refreshments" on these outings, and I would therefore advise
the Rat-catcher not to indulge too freely.

The foregoing is, of course, a brief sketch of the pleasantest part of a
Rat-catcher's life, and to complete the picture I may as well describe
some of the other features, and the way he has to rough it sometimes.
Well, Rat-catchers are generally called upon to supply Rats for the Rat
coursings usually held at beerhouses, etc., on Saturday afternoons, which
one often sees advertised.  Now, if he binds himself to supply a coursing
at a certain date, the bills announcing the event are printed and posted,
all of which means expense.  Then you are bound to secure the live Rats,
whatever be the weather.  In doing this I always followed the threshing
machine to the bays and stacks.  (Anyone that catches Rats regularly can
tell by looking at the bays or stacks whether there are many Rats in or
not.)  I remember many times when the men have started threshing a bay of
wheat in which were a great many Rats, and by dark they have threshed
only half of the bay.  At such times the Rat-catcher must not leave the
remaining half, no, not for half-an-hour throughout the whole night, for
if he does the Rats will run out.  To stop the Rats from leaving, the Rat-
catcher has to lie on the top of the bay or go about every thirty minutes
and beat the bottom with sticks until daylight, in order to keep the Rats
in.  Then, after the machine re-starts, and the bottom of the bay is
reached, the Rat-catcher will be well paid for his trouble, for he may
get, say, 150 good Rats for the coursing, at six shillings per dozen.  The
reason I call them good coursing Rats is because they have not been
handled, and that enables them to run well.

Now, when you go to these coursings (which are mostly in the colliery
districts) you will find about 60 dogs entered.  It is the Rat-catcher's
business to measure and handicap the dogs, and a very unpleasant job it
is.  He has also to be the referee at these coursings, and if it is a
"near thing" with two dogs running at one rat, and you decide to award
the victory to a given one, then the owner of the other dog will probably
accuse you of wrong-doing and favouritism.  Then is the time the
Rat-catcher has to be prepared to pull off his coat and start fighting
before, perhaps, 500 spectators.  This has often occurred with me.  This,
I can assure my readers, is what I call "roughing it."

Of course, what I have just related occurred a few years ago, but when
the Muzzling Order came into force, the authorities practically stopped
Rat coursing, for they would not let a dog run at a Rat unless the dog
was muzzled.  This was about the worst thing that the authorities could
do for Manchester and district, for at that time I was supplying for
coursings about 100 Rats per week, and at the same time sending 50 Rats a
week into Yorkshire, and all the Rats I supplied were caught within 15
miles of Manchester.  This in my opinion, speaks very bad of the Muzzling
Order, which I think is nothing but a farce, for at the very time I was
going ratting, dogs were muzzled in some parts of the country but not in
others.  My opinion of dog muzzling is, muzzle all or muzzle none.

You will see by what I have said respecting these coursings, etc., that
the Rat-catcher has plenty of work to supply so many live rats, and he
has also to mix with company high and low.  He also sometimes experiences
difficulties in travelling on the railway.  I have often entered an empty
third-class carriage, sent my dog under the seat, and put the Rat cage
there also.  The carriage would fill with passengers, and upon reaching
my destination I would take from under the seat my cage full of live
Rats, to the amusement of some and the disgust of others.

I have also entered a railway carriage with my cage of rats when there
were passengers in, one or two of whom would generally object to live
Rats being in the same compartment, and on enquiring of the railway
officials, I have found that any one travelling with live Rats is
expected to put them in the guard's van.

I have also had a few good customers in my business, one or two in
particular.  Gentlemen have often sent me post-cards instructing me to
take six or twelve Rats to their residences.  I would run them out on the
lawn in front of the house with their dogs, and generally I have received
good remuneration for my trouble.  These are the customers who should be
looked well after, for they are the sportsmen who do not consider
expense, though of course there are others who are just the opposite.

Further, Rat-catching is a business in which one is not called upon to
allow credit.  It is all a ready-money trade, and as there is not much
competition, the Rat-catcher can command a good price for his work.  He
has always one resource open to him when he has finished a job according
to contract (catching say 40 or 50 Rats), should there be a dispute about
the price and the people decline to pay the bill, then he has the
expedient of letting the Rats at liberty again in the place where he had
caught them.  Most people will pay the price you send in rather than have
the Rats turned loose again.

Although I am showing how the Rat-catcher can always have the advantage
of stubborn payers, I may as well assure my readers that in all my
experience such an occurrence as the above has never happened with me,
simply because I always make my arrangements beforehand, which course I
always find the best and most satisfactory all round.

Another matter I may mention.  If any one could find out a sure way of
catching Rats so that he could give a guarantee to clear large buildings,
my opinion is that he would make a fortune in a very short time; for I
know firms in Manchester alone that would pay almost any amount to be rid
of the Rats; not only because of what they consume, but more for the
damage they do to their goods.

I have referred to the Rat-catcher obtaining good pay.  The reason he
commands such a big price for his work at the present time is because
there is not much sale for live Rats.  The trade is not what it was some
years ago when Rat-pits were allowed.  I think it was one of the worst
things they ever did for this country when the authorities stopped the
Rat pits, for when Rat killing was allowed in pits, it was a common thing
for a Rat-catcher to receive an order for 100 Rats, all to be killed at
one time; then the Rat-catcher would get the Rats and wherever he got
them from he was ridding that district of a nuisance.  But when the
authorities stopped Rat-pits and Rat-coursing, the consequence was that
the Rat-catcher left the Rats to breed in thousands.  Rats being vermin,
I don't see why they should not be killed 50 or 100 at a time in the pit,
but the Humane Society maintain that it is cruelty to dogs to put them in
a pit with a lot of Rats.  I don't see where the cruelty comes in, but
from what I have seen of Rat-pits during my time I approve of them, and I
think if they were in existence again there would be a clearing of many
thousands of Rats.  Some 15 or 20 years since, I supplied 400 Rats in one
week, all to be killed in Rat-pits.

Many of my readers may not understand what a Rat-pit is, and so I will
just give an outline as well as I can.

The Rat-pit is of circular construction, say ten feet diameter, and about
four feet six inches deep, the sides being perfectly smooth to prevent
the rats climbing up and making their escape.  A certain number of Rats
are placed in the pit according to the arrangements made with the owner
of the dog.  Then the dog is put in the pit with the rats to kill them,
which a good dog does very quickly.

The reason the pit is built circular is so that the Rats will keep
running round, for if it were square they would all run in a corner, one
on the other, and then the dog would have no difficulty in killing them.
It is better to have the pit fairly deep; if not, the rats might escape.

I think the best dog, within my recollection, that I have seen was a bull
and fox terrier, which killed 40 good Rats in three minutes and 21
seconds.  I have read and heard of dogs doing better feats, but I am only
writing of what I have myself seen.  I may say that the records for Rat-
killing in Rat-pits are held by a dog called Jacko, which killed 200 Rats
in 14 minutes and 37 seconds, and 1,000 Rats in less than one hour and 40
minutes.

The Rat-catcher has also some very dirty jobs to do sometimes.  Often he
has to go under all sorts of cellar floors, both wet and dry, but the
majority of places are very wet and dirty, for the Rats nearly always
come out of some filthy drain, and very often near a water-closet, the
abominable smell arising from these places being sufficient to cause a
fever.

I remember being once employed at a hospital, and I was paid at the rate
of 5s. per visit for trapping Rats.  Well, I found that 5s. per visit did
not pay me (I had about 120 traps set all over the place), so I went
before the committee and requested 8s. per night.  The committee said
they thought 5s. per visit was enough, and one or two of them said they
thought 8s. per night was above a Rat-catcher's pay.  Now, as I was not
depending on that particular job at the time, I turned round and told
them what I thought.  I told them I considered Rat-catching was a skilled
occupation, and I also offered any of them a five-pound note if they
would only follow me under the floors at midnight, not to speak of taking
the live Rats out of the traps in the dark; but I can assure you that
none of these gentlemen would venture to undertake the task.

Now, if any of these gentlemen had to do this a few times they would not
refuse to pay the Rat-catcher the sum he asks, viz., 8s. per night.

I remember more than once in big places such as bonding warehouses, when
I have been under the floors, my candle or lamp has gone out through
being knocked over with grabbing at Rats, and I have not had a match in
my pocket, and have had to grope about in the dark trying to find the
trap-door where I have got under the floors, more often than not putting
my hand in a set trap.  It would be of no use shouting for a light simply
because I have been alone.  It is always better for a Rat-catcher to have
assistance for night work, but I have done it myself very often.

Now, the expenses of travelling come very heavy sometimes, for wherever
the Rat-catcher goes he always has to pay railway fare for himself and
his dog.

Another thing I must tell you.  Often when I have gone to inspect a small
building I have found that there were a great many Rats in, but I have
also known, after inspecting the place, that they have all come from the
one place, out of the drain.  Well, if I have contracted to do this job
for a lump sum, I could easily clear this place and not catch an odd Rat,
simply by ferreting them all back into the sewer in the daytime, and then
making it good; but in most of these cases they do not like to pay your
bill because you have caught no Rats.  Still, you have driven them all
down the drains, and after making the drain good they cannot get back
again into the building.

Now, in a case like this I always trap them two or three nights and catch
a few, just to give satisfaction to those engaging me.

Sometimes gentlemen will write inviting me to meet them at a certain
farm, and bring my ferrets and a good supply of nets, alleging that there
are "hundreds of Rats in the stacks."  I just relate this to indicate how
anyone not regularly amongst Rats can easily be deceived as to their
numbers, for a couple of Rats on the thatch of a stack, especially when
they have young ones, will probably have twelve holes eaten in the thatch
and underneath the stack, and anyone not understanding their habits would
think there were a lot of Rats in it.

And it is much the same with workpeople; if they chance to see two or
three Rats at once, they will say there are "scores" of them.  You would
also be surprised to see the awful dread that tenants have of the Rat-
catcher in private houses.  When ferreting these places they think that
if a Rat-catcher has once put his ferrets under the floor they will never
see another Rat in the place; but depend upon it they are very bad to
catch in these places.

I have often had much trouble respecting houses, warehouses, etc., to
know whose duty it would be to pay the Rat-catcher for his work, the
landlord's or the tenant's, but I think that the landlord should pay.  I
have had many engagements to catch Rats in newly-built houses before they
were tenanted.  The time the Rats get into these places is whilst the
workmen are putting the drains in the back yards, leaving the drains open
at nights.  Thence the Rats come out and get under the floors, sometimes
having to stop there, too, simply because the next day the joiners board
up the floors and thus block the Rats in underneath, and then the Rats
can always get into the kitchens up the back of the fireplace.  Most
property owners would do well to take note of this fact.

I must tell my readers, especially those having large shops, etc., that
it is a good plan, if possible, to turn off the gas and water every night
and week-end, for I have seen a good many cases where the Rats in the
night-time have eaten through a water-pipe, and the place has been
flooded by morning.  It is just the same with a gas-pipe, and my opinion
is that it is quite possible for fires to be caused by Rats in the night-
time.  Rats are very fond of nibbling and scratching at soft wood, and it
would be an easy matter at a grocer's shop for a Rat to bite or scratch
through the package of a gross of matches and ignite them, and the same
cause may prove disastrous with any other inflammable goods.

Respecting the conveyance of live Rats, the Rat-catcher should always be
particular to have good strong cages and bags, because if he had a number
of Rats in an unserviceable bag which happened to break open at a railway
station or in the street, I think he could be summoned for the damage the
escaped Rats might do.  Still, I have not in my time had or heard of a
case of this sort.

Speaking of bags, a good many people seem to think that if a man puts his
hand into a bagful of Rats they will bite him, but I can assure you that
a child could do the same thing and not be bitten.  Should there be only
two or three in the bag, then they will bite, but not in the event of
there being a good number.  The same rule applies to Rats stored in a
cage, where there is open daylight--if there be 40 or 50 Rats together,
it is then the habit of the Rats for all to cling together, and they will
let you handle them anyway if only you will have sufficient courage.

It is very good sport for gentlemen who want a good day's outing to go to
farms when threshing is on, and also to go hunting and ferreting round
the corn and wheat fields, and I think many sporting gentlemen who have
not seen such sport would indulge in it freely after they had once
witnessed it.  I think it is much better and healthier sport than rabbit-
shooting, especially in the summer when the farmers are cutting their
corn and wheat.

When catching Rats as a regular pursuit, one is surprised at the queer
places in which he finds them.  I recollect ferreting seven full-sized
Rats from under the floor of a built dog kennel not above four yards
square, where a large mastiff and a terrier dog slept every night, only a
3/4-inch board dividing them from the Rats, and the Rats having eaten
holes through the boards in the kennel!  I have also found at an
out-house an old bitch Rat and nine young ones in an old tin trunk
without a lid.  I have also caught Rats and taken young ones out of the
nest from under railway sleepers where trains have been running and
shunting operations carried on every day.  And I have even taken old and
young ones in their nest from a pile of Cheshire cheese, at a wholesale
cheese and bacon factor's!

And mentioning cheese in this connection reminds me that once I
discovered that Rats had scratched and eaten a hole direct through the
bottom lot of cheese in a pile which had only been there three weeks.

A word or two about what a Rat will do with a ferret.  I have often seen
a Rat run a ferret out of the hole, and then wait with its head out of
the hole until the ferret has come to it again.  I remember once
ferreting at a hencote, and put the ferret behind the hen nest, whereupon
the Rat attacked the ferret, which then jumped back and died in five
minutes, the Rats having given only one bite behind the ferret's ear!  Of
course this is a very rare occurrence.  True, I have had many ferrets
killed by Rats in my time, but it has always occurred through the
poisonous bite first swelling and then "taking bad ways," the ferret
dying in probably a week or so.

You must understand that if you put a Rat and a ferret together in a tub
the ferret would kill the Rat in nine cases out of ten, the nature of the
Rat being to get away from the ferret if possible; but if it cannot it
will fight, and I think a Rat, for its size, is of a very vicious nature,
for I have often seen when trying a puppy at killing a Rat in a pit, that
a game Rat will run the puppy all round the pit.  The best way to try a
pup to kill a Rat is to draw the teeth of the first Rat it secures for
sometimes if a pup gets a severe bite from a Rat it will never look at
another.  It is a very bad plan to let a pup play with a Rat too much,
for this causes the pup never to put a hard mouth on the Rat.  When this
latter occurs it is the best plan not to allow the same pup to see
another Rat until it is a month or two older.  If you will take care and
trouble with a pup you can bring it up to your own liking, and to do
anything you want.  I have worked seven years with a curly-coated
retriever bitch, and when ferreting a brook she would stand in the water
and catch the Rats that escaped from the nets into the brook and bring
them to me alive in her mouth.  I have sold hundreds of Rats she has
caught in this manner, and to show you how the dogs can be brought up
with the ferrets I need only mention that this bitch would lie down and
let two ferrets kill a Rat on the curly coat of her back.

Farmers know too well of the many restless nights the cows and horses
experience through Rats.  I have seen when trapping all night at a farm
the Rats running over the cows and horses whilst sleeping: and when
horses have been working in the field all day they want better rest in
the night.  I have known when farmers would not let the Rat-catcher
ferret their buildings gratis, simply because they have a few hens
sitting.  They don't consider that when the hens have hatched the eggs
the Rats will take the chickens.  Whenever a farmer has refused to let me
ferret at his farm I have passed that farm ever afterwards.  To show you
the different dispositions of farmers I have met, I may mention that when
once ferreting at a farm, we caught nine rats and lost the ferret, and
two days afterwards the ferret was found on the farm, and I sent for it,
but the farmer demanded two shillings of me for the ferret's keep.  This
same man I may add farmed about two hundred acres.

Of course, there are other farmers just the opposite, who will not only
pay you for your trouble, but take great interest in helping you to catch
the Rats.  I relate these facts and incidents to show you the contrast in
the disposition of different people one meets in this business.

I don't think the Rat-catcher's life is one of the worst if he looks well
after his business, for he has a few advantages over other occupations.
In the first place, he is his own master, and need only doff his coat
when he chooses, there being for him no such summons to work as a factory
bell.  And if he fancies a day's outing in the country he can always take
his dog and ferrets with him, and make a day's pleasure into a
remunerative business, by reason of the income from the Rats, and I find
from experience that the best friends he has are his dog and ferrets, if
he will look well after them and treat them kindly, for I think that a
Rat-catcher in the country without a good dog might walk over scores of
Rats and never know they were there, so you will see that his dog is
chiefly what he has to trust to.

And now, in conclusion, let me express the hope that this book will prove
instructive, entertaining, and profitable to my readers, inasmuch as I
have endeavoured to make it so to the best of my ability and within the
somewhat limited scope and sphere of a Rat-catcher's calling.  Of course,
I might have made the narrative portion of the book more startling and
exciting, had I drawn upon my imagination, but I have thought it best to
adhere to cold fact and actual experience.




HINTS ON RABBIT SHOOTING.


Always have your gun made at your gunmaker's to your own liking.

Always be prepared for the worst of weather, and be sure to have good
strong boots.

Never have your gun on full cock while walking about, especially whilst
going through a fence.

Never stand too close to a burrow, and don't be too eager to shoot.

Always have your gun pointed upwards to the clouds or down to the ground.

Never shoot at a rabbit as it sits on the top of the hole, or you might
shoot the ferret.  Always stand so that all the shooters can see one
another.

Never remove from where the gamekeeper places you.

Never have your gun barrels up while it is raining.

When you go out in the country always provide yourself with refreshments
before starting.

If you miss an easy shot don't blame the gun.

Don't be too excited, and get well on the rabbits before you pull.

If the keeper's dog is retrieving rabbits never attempt to take one from
it.




AUTHOR'S NOTES.


IKE MATTHEWS is prepared to go out Ratting with parties of gentlemen or
their gamekeepers on their private estates during the summer, supplying
dog, ferrets, and nets, at moderate charges.  Arrangements may be made by
post.

IKE MATTHEWS is also willing to go out rabbit-shooting with gentlemen
during the season, and will supply and work ferrets at reasonable
charges.  He is also prepared to break dogs and puppies to ferreting and
Ratting on reasonable terms.

Any number of live Rats and rabbits supplied at a few days' notice.

All orders promptly attend to.
           Undeniable References.
                    Yours truly,
                              IKE MATTHEWS.





*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FULL REVELATIONS OF A PROFESSIONAL RAT-CATCHER AFTER 25 YEARS' EXPERIENCE ***


    

Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will
be renamed.

Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
States without permission and without paying copyright
royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™
concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following
the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use
of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for
copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very
easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation
of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project
Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may
do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected
by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark
license, especially commercial redistribution.


START: FULL LICENSE

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK

To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at
www.gutenberg.org/license.

Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™
electronic works

1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your
possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person
or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.

1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be
used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this
agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™
electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.

1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the
Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual
works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting
free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™
works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily
comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when
you share it without charge with others.

1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no
representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
country other than the United States.

1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:

1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear
prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work
on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the
phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed,
performed, viewed, copied or distributed:

    This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
    other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
    whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
    of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
    at www.gutenberg.org. If you
    are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws
    of the country where you are located before using this eBook.
  
1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is
derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™
trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted
with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works
posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
beginning of this work.

1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™
License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™.

1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg™ License.

1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format
other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official
version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website
(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain
Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the
full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.

1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
provided that:

    • You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
        the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method
        you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
        to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has
        agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
        Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
        within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
        legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
        payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
        Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
        Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
        Literary Archive Foundation.”
    
    • You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
        you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
        does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™
        License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
        copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
        all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™
        works.
    
    • You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
        any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
        electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
        receipt of the work.
    
    • You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
        distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works.
    

1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than
are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of
the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set
forth in Section 3 below.

1.F.

1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™
electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
cannot be read by your equipment.

1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right
of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.

1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
without further opportunities to fix the problem.

1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO
OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.

1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
remaining provisions.

1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in
accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™
electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or
additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any
Defect you cause.

Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™

Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
from people in all walks of life.

Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will
remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future
generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org.

Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation

The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws.

The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West,
Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up
to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website
and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact

Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation

Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread
public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest
array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
status with the IRS.

The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state
visit www.gutenberg.org/donate.

While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
approach us with offers to donate.

International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.

Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation
methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate.

Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works

Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be
freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of
volunteer support.

Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed
editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
edition.

Most people start at our website which has the main PG search
facility: www.gutenberg.org.

This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™,
including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.