Exercises in Knitting

As the number of stitches required to work each pattern will be mentioned, these patterns can easily be applied for any other purpose, and are most of them well adapted for doilies. Some of the most open patterns are suitable for Shetland shawls; and as the majority of the chair covers are now done in coloured wool, the colours and number of shades will be described; though, if wished in white, the linen thread, No. 1, is the proper material to be used.

German Pattern of Open Double Knitting, both Sides alike.

Large wooden pins are required for this pattern, which is done in double or eight-threaded wool, in 5 colours that contrast well—claret, gold colour, blue, white, scarlet; and 4 rows of each, worked in the order they are here placed. Cast on 71 stitches.

First row:—Seam 1, make 1, slip 1: this row is only to begin with, and is not repeated, the whole of the knitting being done as the

Second row:—Seam 2 together, make 1, by passing the wool round the pin, slip 1, and repeat. At the end of the row, if correctly knitted, there will be 1 stitch, which seam. When the colours have been repeated 6 times, the cover will be the proper size.

To finish it round, work fringe No. 2, work claret for the head, and put in two lengths of each colour in the fringe.

II.

Nun's Pattern.

Pins No. 10, 8 stitches to a pattern: 14 shades of orange 4-threaded German wool, beginning with the darkest, and working 6 rows of each: 4 plain rows to begin and end the cover; and 4 plain stitches at the beginning and end of every row, for an edge. These edge stitches are not mentioned with the pattern, but will be included in the number cast on. Cast on 112 stitches.

First row:—Make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, and repeat.

Third row:—Make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Make 1, knit 5, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, and repeat.

When 6 rows of each shade have been done, reverse them by continuing with the 2d lightest shade.

III.

Viennoise Pattern.

Pins No. 10, 9 stitches to a pattern. Eight shades of scarlet four-threaded German wool, 12 rows of each, the shades to be arranged and reversed as No. 2. Cast on 116 stitches (this includes the 8 edge stitches).

First row:—Make 1, knit 5, knit 2 together, pass the wool twice over the pin, knit 2 together, repeat.

Second row:—Seamed. The stitches that were passed twice over the pin to be knitted only as 1 stitch.

Third row:—Knit 1, make 1, knit 4, knit 2 together, pass the wool twice over the pin, knit 2 together, repeat.

Fifth row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, pass the wool twice over the pin, knit 2 together, repeat.

Seventh row:—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, pass the wool twice over the pin, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Ninth row:—Knit 4, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, pass the wool twice over the pin, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Eleventh row:—Knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, pass the wool twice over the pin, knit 2 together, and repeat.

IV.

Beautiful Coral Pattern.

Pins No. 12. Sixteen shades of scarlet, four-threaded German wool, and 6 rows of each shade, to be worked in the same order as No. 2, for the cover. Cast on 116 stitches; if wished for any other purpose, cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 17, and 14 stitches over, to make the pattern correspond at the edges.

First row:—Knit 4, knit 2 together,* thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2, and repeat from * till within 8 of the end, then thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 4.

Third row:—Knit 3, knit 2 together,* thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped one over, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, and repeat from *. For the end: thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 5.

Fifth row:—Knit 2, knit 2 together,* thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 5, thread forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, knit 2, and repeat from *. For the end: thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 6.

Seventh row:—Knit 4,* thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 1, and repeat from *. For the end: thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4.

Ninth row:—Knit 5,* thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3, and repeat from *. For the end: thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 3.

Eleventh row:—Knit 6,* thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 5, and repeat from *. For the end: thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2.

Beautiful Diamond Pattern.

Pins No. 10; 24 stitches to a pattern; 6 shades of scarlet four-threaded German wool, 12 rows of each shade, and for the centre, 12 rows of white. Cast on 128 stitches.

First row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 (make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times), knit 2 together and draw the preceding stitch on the right-hand needle over the stitch formed by knitting the last 2 together, make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together; repeat.

Third row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 (knit 2 together and make 1 three times), knit 1 (make 1 and knit 2 together twice), make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

Fifth row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1 (knit 2 together and make 1 three times), knit 3 (make 1 and knit 2 together three times), knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together; repeat.

Seventh row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1 (knit 2 together and make 1 three times), knit 5 (make 1 and knit 2 together three times), knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, and repeat.

Ninth row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1 (make 1 and knit 2 together three times), knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 (make 1 and knit 2 together four times).

Eleventh row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 (make 1 and knit 2 together three times), knit 2 (knit 2 together and make 1 three times), knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

VI.

Pretty Feather Pattern.

Pins No. 11; 25 stitches to a pattern. Six shades each of scarlet, drab, and blue. Cast on 108 stitches. Commence with the darkest blue and knit 4 plain rows.

First row:—Knit 2 together four times, bring the wool forward and knit 1 eight times, knit 2 together four times, knit 1, and repeat.

The shade is changed after the completion of these 4 rows. The 6 shades of blue are knit from dark to light; then the 6 shades of scarlet; and then the shades of drab: each set of shades is knit twice, and you will finish with the lightest drab. Knit 4 plain rows of that colour besides the 4 pattern rows.

VII.

Rose-Leaf Pattern.

Pins No. 10; 19 stitches to a pattern. Fifteen shades of blue four-thread German wool, and 6 rows of each colour. Cast on 122 stitches.

First row:—Knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, seam 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, seam 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, and repeat.

Second row:—Seam 3, knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, seam 4, knit 2, seam 1; repeat.

Third row:—Knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, seam 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, seam 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, and repeat.

Fourth row:—Seam 4, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1, seam 5, knit 2, seam 1, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, seam 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1.

Seventh row:—Knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 5, make 1, and repeat.

VIII.

Pretty Spider-Net Pattern, with Open Work between.

Pins No. 12; 35 stitches to a pattern. Fourteen shades of four-threaded scarlet German wool, 6 rows of each shade. Cast on 113 stitches.

First row:—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 9 (make 1, and knit 2 together 6 times), knit 5; repeat.

Second row:—Seam 4 (seam 2 together and make 1 six times), seam 9 (seam 2 together and make 1 twice), seam 3, make 1, seam 2 together, seam 1, and repeat.

Third row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together (make 1 and knit 2 together twice), knit 9 (make 1 and knit 2 together six times), knit 3, and repeat.

Fourth row:—Seam 2 (seam 2 together and make 1 six times), seam 9 (seam 2 together and make 1 twice), seam 1, make 1, seam 3, make 1, seam 2, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Knit 3, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 3 (make 1 and knit 2 together twice), knit 9 (make 1 and knit 2 together six times), knit 1, repeat.

Sixth row:—Seam 3 (make 1 and seam 2 together six times), seam 6, seam 2 together, make 1, seam 1, make 1, seam 2 together, make 1, seam 2 together, seam 7, repeat.

Seventh row:—Knit 6, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4 (knit 2 together and make 1 six times), knit 4, repeat.

Eighth row:—Seam 5 (make 1 and seam 2 together six times), seam 2, seam 2 together, make 1, seam 2 together, seam 1, seam 2 together, make 1, seam 2 together, make 1, seam 2 together, seam 5, repeat.

Ninth row:—Knit 4, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 (knit 2 together and make 1 six times), knit 6, repeat.

Tenth row:—Seam 7 (make 1 and seam 2 together six times), seam 3, make 1, slip 1, seam 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, seam 3, make 1, seam 2 together, make 1, seam 2 together, seam 3, repeat.

IX.

Shield Pattern, surrounded with Open Work.

Pins No. 11; 15 stitches to a pattern. Ten shades of four-threaded German wool, 8 rows of each shade, the shades to be reversed from the centre the same as No. 2. Cast on 113 stitches.

First row:—Knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together.

Third row:—Knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together.

Fifth row:—Knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together.

Seventh row:—Knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together.

Ninth row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together.

Eleventh row:—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

Thirteenth row:—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

Nineteenth row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together at the back, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.

Twenty-first row:—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together at the back, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3.

Twenty-third row:—Knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together at the back, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4.

Twenty-fifth row:—Knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together.

Twenty-seventh row:—Knit 2 together at the back, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together.

Canvass Pattern.

Two stitches to a pattern, 3 half-ounce skeins of shaded scarlet 8-threaded wool, and 2 skeins of 8-threaded white wool, 6 rows of scarlet, and 4 of white. Cast on 100 stitches.

First row:—Seam 1, seam the remainder of the stitches, passing the wool twice round the pin. This row is not repeated, but the knitting continued with the 2d and 3d rows till large enough.

Second row:—Knit half the 1st stitch, knit the other half with half the 2d stitch, passing the wool twice round the pin, knit the other half of the 2d stitch with the 1st half of the 3d stitch, passing the wool twice round the pin, and so on.

Third row:—Seam half the 1st stitch, seam the other half with the 1st half of the 2d stitch, passing the wool twice round the pin, seam the other half of the 2d stitch with the 1st half of the 3d stitch, passing the wool twice round; repeat. Finish this round with fringe No. 2; use scarlet for the head, and scarlet and white for the fringe.

XI.

Leaf Pattern.

First row:—Knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, and repeat.

Third row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Seventh row:—Knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, and repeat.

Ninth row:—Knit 5, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together and bring the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 4, and repeat.

Eleventh row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Thirteenth row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Fifteenth row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Seventeenth row:—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Nineteenth row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 9,* make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together and bring the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 9, repeat from * to end, and then begin first row.

XII.

Another Leaf Pattern.

First row:—Seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 4, knit 2, seam 2, bring the thread forward and knit 1, pass the thread round the needle, and repeat.

Second row:—Seam 3, knit 2, seam 2, knit 3, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Third row:—Seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 2, knit 2, seam 2, knit 1, thread forward and knit 1, thread forward and knit 1, and repeat.

Fourth row:—Seam 5, knit 2, seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, seam 2, knit 2, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 2, and repeat.

Sixth row:—Seam 7, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Seventh row:—Seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 2, knit 3, thread forward and knit 1, thread forward, knit 3, and repeat.

Ninth row:—Seam 2, thread forward and knit 1, thread round the needle and seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 5, and repeat.

Tenth row:—Seam 4, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 2, seam 3, knit 2, and repeat.

Eleventh row:—Seam 2, knit 1, thread forward and knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 3, and repeat.

Twelfth row:—Seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 2, seam 5, knit 2, and repeat.

Thirteenth row:—Seam 2, knit 2, thread forward and knit 1, thread forward and knit 2, seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, and repeat.

Fourteenth row:—Seam 1, knit 2 together, seam 1, knit 2, seam 7, knit 2, and repeat.

Fifteenth row:—Seam 2, knit 3, thread forward and knit 1, thread forward, knit 3, seam 2, knit 1, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Narrow Vandyke Edging.

Second row:—Slip 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit 2 together.

Third row:—Make 1, knit 1, knit the first half of next stitch, seam the other half, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together.

Sixth row:—Slip 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice round, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped one over, knit 1.

Seventh row:—Knit 2, knit the first half of next stitch, seam the other half, knit 1, knit first half of next stitch, seam the other half, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together.

Eighth row:—Slip 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 7. Cast off 5 stitches, and repeat from first row.

For a Baby's Hood—very pretty.

First row:—Knit 1 stitch, and bring the wool forward before each of the other 6 stitches.

Third row:—Knit 2 stitches, make 1, knit 2, make 1. A plain row is knit between every increased one.

Next row:—Make 1 between every 3 stitches, then between every 4, and so on, only increasing in the same plan, that is, 6 times in every other row, till you have 16 stitches between every increased stitch. Then knit a plain row.

Next row:—Make 1, and knit 2 stitches together alternately throughout the row, cast off 12 stitches on each side of your pins, knit 2 plain rows.

Next row:—Make 1, and knit 2 stitches together alternately. Knit 8 plain rows.

Knit a plain row, and continue commencing with 12 stitches every other row, making 1 between every 12 stitches, so that in every other row there is an additional stitch between every increasing. Continue the plain and increased row alternately, in the whole making 30 rows.

When the hood is made up, satin ribbon is first run between the holes, and then turned back, and stuffed with wool. It is turned over to the second of the 8 plain rows. Satin ribbon is run between the 3 rows of holes and the increased parts down the crown, which is sewed up. The curtain, or frill, is sewed to the back part, and is knit as follows:—Cast on 64 stitches, knit 18 plain rows, then take up the stitches at each side, and knit a plain row; bring the wool forward, and knit 2 together for the row, 1 plain row, cast off, then draw the ribbon through the holes, and sew on the frill. The crown is neatly lined with white Persian, and strings of sarcenet added. A rosette of ribbon is an improvement. Pink, white, or blue wool, is the best colour to knit this hood in.

Very Pretty Pattern for a Fish Serviette.

No. 2 linen thread, and pins No. 14. Cast on 116 stitches; 2 are for the edge on each side: knit 1 plain row, seam 1. The 2 stitches for the edge are not mentioned in the pattern.

First row:—Knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together (knit 1 and make 1 twice), knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together (knit 1 and make 1 twice), knit 2.

Third row:—(Knit 2 together and knit 1 twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1 (knit 1 and knit 2 together twice), knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2.

Seventh row:—Knit 2 (make 1 and knit 1 twice), knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together (knit 1 and make 1 twice), knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Ninth row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1 (knit 1 and knit 2 together twice), knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together.

Eleventh row:—Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit one, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat.

Repeat these 12 rows till you have about 9 or 10 nails in length, then knit 1 plain row, seam 1 row, and cast off.

Two pretty Fringes for Chair Covers, &c.

No. 1. Cast on an even number of stitches for covers, 8 will be a good number, and use double wool. Make 1 by passing the wool round, seam 2 together, repeat; both rows are done in this manner: when sufficient fringe is done, cast off 4 stitches, take out the other pin, and unravel the remaining stitches.

No. 2. Cast on 9 stitches, make a stitch, seam 2 together, make a stitch, seam 2 together, make a stitch, seam 2 together (the wool is cut in lengths of about 6 inches and put in 3 at a time), put in 1 piece of the fringe, knit 2 plain stitches, pass the piece of fringe between the needles, knit the last stitch.

Second row:—Knit the 2 first stitches, knit the third and the piece of fringe together, knit the rest plain, knit the next row the same as the first. Continue with these 2 rows alternately till sufficient fringe is made. It may be done either in one plain colour, or the knitting in one colour and the fringe in another.

New Pattern for Lace Edging.

First row:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together.

Second row:—Knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2.

Fifth row:—Slip 1, knit 2, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, knit 1, pass the cotton 4 times round the pin, knit 2 together, knit 1, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Sixth row:—Knit 3, seam 1, knit 3, seam 1, knit 1, seam 1, knit 3, seam 1, knit 3.

Eighth row:—Cast off 5, knit 11. You have now 12 stitches on the pin, and must begin with the first row again.

Sugar-Plum Stitch.

Very pretty for babies' quilts, done in shaded wool and large pins. Cast on an uneven number of stitches.

First row:—Knit 1 stitch, bring wool forward, slip 1 the reverse way, pass the wool back, and repeat.

Second row:—Seam the stitch that was slipped in the last row, pass the wool back, slip 1 the reverse way, bring the wool forward, and repeat. Continue these 2 rows till the knitting is large enough.

Leaf Pattern for Half-Square Shawl.

Twelve stitches to a pattern, pins No. 10. This may either be done in Shetland or German wool, and is very pretty in black Shetland wool. Cast on 3 stitches; increase at the beginning of each row till you have 12.

First pattern row:—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1.

Third row:—Make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2.

Fifth row:—Make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.

Seventh row:—Make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.

Ninth row:—Make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, make 1, and knit the remainder.

Eleventh row:—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 (knit 2 together twice), knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit remainder.

Thirteenth row:—Make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 (knit 2 together twice), knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit the remainder.

Fifteenth row:—Make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, * knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, and repeat from *, knit those left at the end.

Seventeenth row:—Make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together, * knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together, and repeat from *, knit those left at the end.

Nineteenth row:—Make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 4, make 1, knit the rest.

The shawl can be made any size by repeating these 10 rows till you have it as large as you wish.

Baby's Shoe and Stocking.

Set on 80 stitches, and knit the top as the Swiss mittens. When deep enough, diminish your stitches to 60. Knit 2 seamed rows in colour, then 2 plain white, and 6 rows of bars, formed by knitting 2 plain and 2 seamed stitches alternately for 3 rows, and then 2 plain rounds, then reverse the ribbing, and so on, with 2 plain rounds between. Divide the back and front—on the 2 back pins 32 stitches, 28 on the front; on the back pins knit 2 more plain rows, on the front continue the bars 6 more rows, and at the end knit 4 plain rows. This finishes the stocking part.

For the shoe, set on 32 stitches of coloured wool on a separate pin: 1 plain row, and 1 row of holes for ribbon to go through, 1 plain row, and then join it to the back part of the stocking, knit 2 seamed rows, 2 plain, 3 rows of bars, and 2 seamed rows. Divide for the heel 12 stitches on the middle pin, and 10 on each side, which you bind down. Continue 3 plain rows on the middle part where there are 12 stitches, and 3 rows of bars; no plain rows at the end; take up each side of the heel 10 stitches, and seam 3 rows. For the foot part, knit 2 plain rows, and 8 rows of bars, before knitting the plain rows to these 8 rows of bars. Set on 28 stitches of coloured wool on a separate pin, and after knitting 2 seamed rows, join it to the front part of the stocking, then knit 2 plain rounds all round to join the whole, but in the back part reduce 4 stitches to make it equal with the 28 in front. Commence the pattern or bars on the back pin, and make the 1st stitch a plain one, at the end of that pin, and on the front one seam 3 stitches to form the side of the shoe, with 2 plain rows as before, narrowing at the end and beginning of the pins. At the beginning of the pins, narrow the 1st stitch, and at the end before the 3 seamed stitches, and only narrow in the plain rows. When you have narrowed to have 10 on the front and back pins, 20 in all, knit 4 plain rows, and finish by turning it and binding down. The front part of the shoe should have 4 rows of bars; join the sides of the shoe and stocking, and knit 4 seamed rows; draw a ribbon through the back part where you made the holes.

Shell Pattern for a Baby's Cap.

The front part is knit with 2 needles only. Cast on 208 stitches, knit 5 rows plain for the beginning. After these 5, you must diminish 1 stitch in every shell, so as to have only 192. Then 3 rows of the pattern, or shells, 2 rows of holes (for putting narrow ribbon in) before doing the pattern again, which is done in this manner: bring your thread forward, knit 2 stitches together, and so on to the end of your needle. Knit 5 rows of plain between these 2 rows of holes; when this is concluded, knit 4 rows of the shells, and then 2 rows of the holes the same as before, with the 5 plain rows between, then again 2 rows of the pattern or shells. You now take your two other needles, and increase 43 stitches for the back of the head; 2 rows plain, 1 row for putting ribbon in, and 3 rows plain, then knit 8 rows of the shells; the 7th row you must have 7 holes in each shell, and the 8th but 6. After this, seam the first and second stitches, knit the third plain, without taking it off, and twist it so as to make 2 stitches of this last one; then seam the fifth, slip the sixth without knitting, knit the seventh plain, and pass the sixth over, knit the eighth plain, slip the ninth, and the tenth knit plain, and pass the ninth over it. The next row: seam the first stitch, slip the second, knit the third, and pass the second over without taking it off, and knit it twisted; twist the fourth, seam the fifth, and knit the 3 remaining plain. After this row, knit 2 rows plain all round; after these, make a row of holes (for putting ribbon in) by taking 2 stitches together, and making one as before. First 3 rows plain all round, another row of holes, and then 3 rows plain. Then do the pattern 8 shells round the cap, and so continue until you have but 5 stitches instead of 9 (not including the 2 twisted, and the seamed).

After this row, seam the 1st, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, raise a stitch by picking up a loop, slip the 5th, knit the 6th, and pass the 5th over, knit the 7th plain, and take the 8th and 9th together, raise one stitch before beginning to seam.

The next row:—Seam the 1st, slip the 2d, knit the 3d plain, and pass the 2d half through, and knit it plain, seam the 4th, knit the 5th plain, slip the 6th without knitting, knit the 7th, and pass over the 6th to the left, and the 8th to the right, knit the 9th plain.

Then do 2 rows of plain knitting all round, 2 rows of the holes (for ribbon), knitting 2 rows plain to divide them, and 4 plain rows to finish with. Take off your stitches on a needle with coarse thread, and tie it up.

The pattern stitch:—First row:—Seam the 1st stitch, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, knit the 5th plain, bring your thread forward, and so continue for 9 stitches plain, counting the 5th for 1; by putting your thread forward, you will have 17 stitches.

Second row:—Seam the 1st stitch, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, and knit the 17 plain when with 4 needles, and seam them when with 2.

Third row:—Seam the 1st, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, slip the 5th, knit the 6th plain, and pass over the 5th; knit 15 stitches plain, including the 6th, and take 2 together at the 15th.

Fourth row:—The same as the 3d, with the exception of the number, which is 13 this time, diminishing at the first and thirteenth as before.

After the 6 rows, you begin at the first again, the 6 rows comprising all the pattern.

For a Knitted Bodice.

Fourth row:—Make a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit 2 together, and so on to the end of the row; knit 4 plain rows, knit 70 rows in double knitting, knit the 4 first and last stitches of every row plain, then let off all the stitches on to a piece of thread, except 25 on the right-hand side. *Knit these 25 stitches backwards and forwards (remembering that the 4 plain stitches are still to be knit on the right-hand side, but not on the other) for 26 rows; then cast on 15 additional stitches; the 4 plain stitches are now to be knit on both sides for 74 rows. Knit 3 plain rows.

Next row:—Make a stitch, knit 2 together, make a stitch, knit 2 together, and so on, knit 3 plain rows, and cast off. This completes the back and one front. You then let off 25 stitches on the other side, and repeat from the point marked above with an asterisk. Then take up the stitches all round the neck, and knit 3 plain rows.

Next row:—Make a stitch and knit 2 together alternately, knit 4 plain rows, and cast off. Then sew the two fronts to the back, about one third of the length up, and run a ribbon through the row of holes formed at the top and bottom. This is worn outside the dress; and under a shawl or cloak is very comfortable. All should be done in double knitting but the 4 edge stitches.

Pretty Open Pattern.

Nine stitches to a pattern. For the centre of a shawl I have done it in white, with a deep shaded border in feather stitch, in German wool, and the effect is extremely good.

First row:—Seam 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, and repeat.

Third row:—Seam 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Seam 2, knit 2, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Shell Knitting for a Bag, in German Wool.

Pins No. 14. Take 11 shades of wool, begin with the darkest, and 4 rows of each shade; that is, 1 pattern done of each. Cast on 155 stitches, 57 on 2 of the needles, and 38 on the third.

First round:—Knit 4 stitches plain. Bring the wool forward, knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 1. Repeat this 8 times. Knit 4 plain, seam 3. Repeat this all round.

Second round:—Knit 2 plain, 2 together, 15 plain, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped one over the knitted one, knit 3 plain, seam 4. Repeat this all round.

Third round:—Knit 2 plain, 2 together, 14 plain, slip 1, and pull 1 over as before, knit 2 plain, seam 3.

Fourth round:—Knit 1 plain, 2 together, 14 plain, slip and pull over as before, knit 1, seam 3.

The stitches will now be reduced to their original number. Tie on the next shade, and repeat the 5 rows as before. Repeat this 15 times. Then take very small needles, and knit a binder, in simple ribs, in any of the shades, 15 rows deep.

The handle is made by knitting on 2 needles of the same size as those used for the bag, with double wool, in the following manner:—Cast on 14 stitches, slip 1, bring the wool forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped one over the knitted one to the last 2, which are both knitted; without bringing the wool forward, fold the two edges into the middle, and sew together with the double wool. Silk tassels to match.

Pretty Pattern for Basket Serviettes.

Eighth row:—Seamed. Repeat from first row. The plain rows between may be knit, instead of seamed, if wished.

Oriental Mat, or Hookah Carpet.

This may also be used as a carriage rug, or is very pretty as a mat for the front of the piano.

It is composed of an open stripe of dark knitting, and a stripe of white knitting, with a pattern worked in cross stitch on it, and is quite new. Large wooden pins are required, and 12-threaded fleecy, dark claret for the open stripe, and white, with 4 shades of gold, green, lilac, and scarlet, form a good combination of colours for the close stripe, and are extremely rich in their effect. For the open stripe cast on 18 stitches.

First row:—Knit 2 stitches, bring the wool forward, pass the first of the 2 knit stitches over, knit 2, bring the wool forward, pass the first of the 2 knit stitches over, repeat.

Second row:—Seamed: repeat these 2 rows alternately till you have done the length you wish your mat to be.

For the close stripe cast on 20 stitches, and knit the same length as the open stripe. When finished, pin it on to a weighted cushion to work the pattern on it, as that stretches the knitting, and shews more plainly where you should put your needle in.

Then work the annexed pattern on it. First pattern in shades of gold; second, shades of green; third, shades of scarlet; fourth, shades of lilac. Repeat with the gold. Four stripes of the white, and 3 of the dark, will make a nice-sized mat for a drawing-room. If for a carriage rug, an additional stripe of each.

Very elegant Knitted Pelisse.

This may be made either smaller or larger by using finer or coarser wool and pins.

It is usually done in 4-thread fleecy, with coloured centre, and border to imitate ermine.

Cast on 270 stitches with white, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch the reversed way, knit 2 together, and repeat: every row is alike. Knit 24 rows with the white, then slip off 24 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and join the coloured wool, leave 24 stitches at the other end. These stitches are not required again till the centre is done, and are then knitted in white to form the border up the sides: this will leave 222, knit with these, with the coloured wool for 12 rows.

Next row:—Knit 27, bring the wool forward, slip 1, and instead of knitting only 2 together, knit 5 together: this decreases 1 rib. Knit to within 30 stitches of the end, decrease 1 rib as before, knit 13 rows, and decrease 1 rib at the beginning and end of the next row as before: each decreasing is done at the beginning of the row after knitting 27 stitches, and when within 30 of the end; knit 11 rows, and decrease 1 rib at each end of the next row; knit 13 rows, and decrease 1 rib at each end; knit 13 rows.

Next row:—Knit 27 stitches, decrease 1 rib; knit 6 stitches, decrease 1 rib; knit 6 stitches, decrease again; knit and repeat, decreasing after every 6 stitches, till 14 ribs are decreased; knit the 30 last stitches without decreasing; knit 24 rows without decreasing.

Next row:—Knit 27 stitches on to another needle, and knit them backwards and forwards for 42 rows: then cast off 3 stitches at the end nearest the centre, knit 2 rows, cast off 3 more stitches, knit 2 rows, and cast off 3 more stitches, till only 9 stitches are left, then cast off the 9 stitches; this completes 1 front, except the white, which will be mentioned below. The 27 last stitches are knitted in the same manner for the other front; then the stitches that remain for the back are knitted for 42 rows; then cast off 3 stitches at each end, knit 2 rows, and cast off 3 at each end, till you have cast off 18 at each end, knit 2 plain rows, and cast off the remainder of the stitches; then sew the shoulders very loosely, or it will contract them. The 24 stitches of white that were let off to another pin must be knit on each side the length of the front, and neatly sewed to it.

For the sleeves:—Cast on 66 stitches, and knit 78 rows: this is for the coloured part, and in sewing it together at the elbow, it must be rather tightened; and for the cuff, which is done in white, cast on 18 stitches and knit 66 rows, and sew it very nicely to the coloured part.

Next row:—Knit to within 12 stitches of the end, turn back, and knit to within 12 of the other end.

Next row:—Leave 24 stitches at each end, then 33, 39, 45, and 48 stitches, turning back between each as before, knit to the end of the row with white, join the coloured wool, knit 8 rows.

Next row:—Leave 12 stitches at the end, turn back, and leave the same number at the other end.

Next row:—Leave 18, then 24, 30, 36, and 42, at each end, then 2 rows of coloured, knitting the whole number of stitches, then cast off, and sew it to the neck.

A cord of tassels for the neck and waist, made of the white and coloured wool, to be added, and little tufts of black wool sewed into the white border at equal distances, completes this elegant pelisse.

Half Cap for Wearing under a Bonnet.

Pins No. 14. Cast on 119 stitches, knit 2 plain rows with the coloured wool, join the white, and knit 2 plain rows.

Next row:—Make a stitch, seam 2 stitches together, make a stitch, seam 2 together, and so on; knit another plain row of white, knit 2 plain rows of coloured, then join the white.

First row:—Knit 4 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 4 plain stitches, make a stitch, knit 3 stitches together, make a stitch, knit 4 plain stitches, and so on to the end of the row.

Third row:—Knit the same as the first, and continue with these 2 rows alternately for 10 rows, then slip off 28 stitches on to another needle, then knit the remaining stitches backwards and forwards for 16 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of each of the last 8 rows, join the coloured wool and knit 2 plain rows, then 2 rows of white.

Next row:—Make a stitch, seam 2 together, make a stitch, seam 2 together, and so on; knit 1 plain row of white, then take up the 28 stitches at the back, and the stitches on each side, knit 2 plain rows of coloured all round, and cast off the stitches. Then run a ribbon, of the same colour as the wool, through the holes of the border round the back and front of the cap.

For a Muff.

Cast on 80 stitches with the lightest shade, and knit 3 plain rows: in the fourth row pass the wool round the pin, seam 2 stitches together, pass the wool round the pin, seam 2 together, and so on to the end of the row; join the next lightest shade, and knit 3 plain rows. In the fourth row, seam 2 stitches together, pass the wool round the pin, seam 2 together, and so on to the end of the row. Continue in this manner, knitting 3 plain rows, and an open row of each shade, till the darkest; then again to the lightest: this forms 1 stripe, 4 of which are required. The last stripe should finish with the lightest shade, to correspond with the beginning. The shading of each stripe must be reversed; thus, first begin with the lightest shade and knit to the darkest, then knit from the darkest to the lightest, and then again to the darkest, and so on. This should be done in double German wool, in five shades of sable or chinchilla colours, and satin put underneath the knitting of the same colour.

A Swiss Pattern for the Top of a Mitten or Muffatee.

Cast on 26 stitches on 3 needles. Begin by seaming the first stitch, knit the second, and slip it on the left-hand needle, bring the 1 from behind over, which decreases a stitch; knit the 3 next stitches plain, pass the thread in front of each of the 2 next stitches and knit them, which increases and makes the holes; then knit 3 more plain, and decrease again as above; then seam a stitch; and so on all round: after each round done in this way, knit a plain round.

Beautiful Pattern for a Shetland Shawl.

The centre is done with fine white Shetland wool and large ivory or wood pins. Cast on for the centre 180 or 190 stitches; the pattern does for any number that will divide by 10.

First row:—Knit 1, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 3, and repeat.

Third row:—Knit 2 (make 1, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch over 3 times), knit 2.

Fifth row:—Knit 3 (make 1, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch over 3 times), knit 1.

Seventh row:—Knit 4 (make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over 3 times).

For a Comforter.

No. 11 pins. Four-thread fleecy, geranium and grey. Cast on 48 stitches: knit 20 rows in double knitting of geranium, then 12 rows of the grey, 12 of the geranium, 12 of the grey, and so on, till the end; then knit 20 rows, as at the first, with the geranium, and finish with the following fringe:—Cast on 8 stitches; make a stitch by keeping the wool at the back, seam 2 stitches together, pass the wool round the pin, seam 2 together, pass the wool round, seam 2 together; continue in this manner, remembering to make a stitch at the beginning of each row, till sufficient fringe is done; then cast off 4 stitches, pull the other needle out, and ravel the depth of the 4 stitches out, and sew on the fringe at each end.

For Another Comforter.

Pins No. 10. This is done in bright scarlet and claret; 6 rows of each. Eight-threaded German wool: cast on 39 stitches.

First row:—Seam 1, make 1, slip 1: this row is not repeated, but the remainder of the comforter is done as the second row: seam 2 together, make 1, slip 1. Repeat when two yards in length are done, cast off, and add fringe No. 1, at each end, or a tassel of the colours of the wool, if preferred.

Raised Knitting, a kind of Bell Pattern, for a Counterpane.

Cast on any number that will divide by 4, and 4 stitches for each edge. The 4 stitches at each edge are not mentioned in the pattern.

First row:—Seam 4 stitches, cast on 6 stitches, seam 4, cast on 6 stitches, and repeat.

Third row:—Seam 8, knit 2 together, taking the back of the stitches, knit 3, knit 2 together, and repeat.

Fifth row:—Seam 3, knit 2 together, taking the back of the stitches, knit 1, knit 2 together.

Seventh row:—Seam 3, knit 2 together, taking the back of the stitches, knit 1.

This pattern is very pretty done in stripes; and if wished in that way, 48 stitches must be cast on for each stripe; and for a narrow stripe to join it with cast on 12 stitches. Knit and seam alternate rows for 8 rows.

Ninth row:—Knit 3, take a third pin, and knit 3 more, knit the remainder of the stitches with the first pin.

Tenth row:—Seam 3, seam the 3 stitches on the third pin, seam the remaining 6, repeat from first row. These 2 stripes form a beautiful pattern for a counterpane.

For a Knitted Penwiper.

Cast on 20 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip 1 the reverse way, knit 2 together, bring the wool forward, slip 1 the reverse way, knit 2 together. Continue this to within 2 of the end, which knit plain.

Second row:—Knit 2, bring the wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together. Continue this to within 3 of the end, which leave on the other pin, and return, doing the same pattern to the 2 at the end of the row, when the wool is to be twisted twice round the pin, and the 2 stitches knit together.

Fourth row:—Make a stitch, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1. Commence the pattern again, and continue it to within 6 of the end, which, as before, are to be left on the other needle. Return with the same pattern to within 4 of the other end, which are to be knit plain.

Sixth row:—Knit 4, knit the pattern to within 6 of the end. Return, as before, to within 4 of the edge, bring the wool twice round the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat this.

Eighth row:—Knit 1, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 1, knit the pattern to within 9 of the end. Return, as before, and knit the edge plain.

Tenth row:—Knit 6 plain, knit the pattern to within 12 of the end. Return to the edge, and bring the wool twice round the pin, and knit 2 together. Repeat this twice more.

Twelfth row:—Knit 1, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together. Return and repeat this. Knit the edge plain. Cast off 8 stitches, leaving 2 for the edge as at the commencement. Knit the pattern to the end of the row.

When finished, sew the two sides together, and make it up with a button in the centre.

Beautiful Pattern for a Scarf.

Five ounces of Shetland wool, or 4 of silk, are required. This may either be worked with a deep shaded border or all plain; worked in the fine black Shetland wool or Ardoise silk, it has the effect of black lace. The patterns both for the border and the centre may be applied for a variety of purposes, and where beauty and elegance of pattern are appreciated, they cannot fail to be admired.

For the border, cast on 130 stitches; 2 are kept for each edge, which are not mentioned in the pattern; they are knit and seamed every alternate row. No. 11 pins for Shetland wool, and No. 12 for Ardoise, are good sizes. Nine stitches form the pattern; so, if wished wider or narrower, either add or take off 9 stitches. Knit 1 plain row, seam and now commence the border, which may be knit about half-a-yard deep.

First row:—Seam 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1; repeat.

Third row:—Seam 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

Fifth row:—Seam 2, knit 2, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 2.

For the centre:—Knit 1 row, seam 1, then commence the pattern. Only 1 stitch is for the edge at each side, the pattern is of 16 stitches.

First row:—Knit 1, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 5, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 4; repeat.

Third row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, taking the back of the stitches, knit 2; repeat.

Fifth row:—Knit 1, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, taking the back of the stitches, knit 1; repeat.

Seventh row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together; repeat.

Ninth row:—Knit 1, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2; repeat.

Eleventh row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3; repeat.

		Page.
No. 1.	German Pattern of Open Double Knitting	2
2.	Nun's Pattern	3
3.	Viennoise Pattern	4
4.	Beautiful Coral Pattern	6
5.	Beautiful Diamond Pattern	10
6.	Pretty Feather Pattern	13
7.	Double Rose-Leaf Pattern	14
8.	Spider-Net Pattern	16
9.	Shield Pattern, surrounded with Open Work	18
10.	Canvass Pattern	22
11.	Leaf Pattern	24
12.	Another Leaf Pattern	26

Repeat these 12 rows till the scarf is from 1½ to 2 yards long in the centre, as may be desired. Knit 1 row, seam 1 row. Then knit the border, as on the other side. A pretty fringe for this scarf is 3 rows netted with double silk, on a mesh of this width ----, [2] and 1 row on a mesh 3 inches wide, netting 3 stitches into each loop.

Twisted Knitting.

Cast on 12 stitches, knit and seam alternate rows for 8 rows; the 3 first and last stitches of each row are always knit.

Ninth row:—Knit 3 stitches, take a third pin and knit 3 more, knit the remainder of the stitches with the first pin.

Tenth row:—Knit 3 stitches, seam the 3 stitches on the third pin, seam the other 3, knit the 3 edge stitches. This completes 1 twist, and is repeated after every 8 rows.

A Pretty Pattern for a Baby's Shoe.

Cast on 30 stitches, knit 8 rows, increasing 1 at the beginning of each, knit 12 rows, increasing 1 at the beginning of every other row for the toe, knit 4 rows without increasing. You will now have 44 stitches on the needle; let off 32 on to a third needle, and knit the remaining 12 stitches backwards and forwards for 30 rows, cast on 32 stitches, knit 4 rows, knit 12 rows, decreasing 1 at the beginning of every other at the same end that you before increased, knit 8 rows, decreasing 1 at the beginning of every row; cast off. This completes the foot part, except the little bit that is let in to shape it better, for which take up 12 stitches along the increased part of the toe, and knit 10 rows, decreasing 1 at the beginning of every other one at the end nearest the casting on.

For the instep:—Take up the 32 stitches on each side, and 16 across the toe, knit 2 plain rows all round, and cast off; then take up the same number all round, but from the bottom of these 2 rows, and knit 2 rows all round; then place the 32 stitches on each side on to separate needles. With the 16 stitches across the toe, knit 2 plain rows, taking up one of the 32 stitches at the end of each row, and knitting it together with the last stitch.

Next row:—Knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the thread forward, knit 1, bring the thread forward, seam 1, pass the thread back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the thread forward, knit 1, bring the thread forward, seam 1, pass the thread back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the thread forward, knit 1, bring the thread forward, seam 1.

Next row:—Knit 2 plain stitches at each edge, and seam the remaining stitches. Continue the pattern and plain rows alternately till 24 rows are done, remembering to knit 1 of the side stitches with the last of each row; then take the stitches on each side on to the same needle with the centre ones, and knit 5 plain rows.

Next row:—Make a stitch, seam 2 together, make a stitch, seam 2 together; this is to form a row of holes for the ribbon to pass through; knit 2 plain rows. Continue the plain and pattern rows as in the instep till 36 rows are done; knit 4 plain rows, and cast off.

Pretty Open Diamond Border.

Third row:—Knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, and repeat.

Seventh row:—Wool forward, knit 2,* wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, wool forward, knit 3, and repeat from *.

Ninth row:—Wool forward, knit 4,* wool forward, knit 3 together, wool forward, knit 5, and repeat from *.—Begin again from third row.

Honeycomb Cuffs.

No. 12 pins. Cast on 68 stitches, slip a stitch with the wool forward, knit 2 together, bring the wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, bring the wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, bring the wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together.

Third row:—Slip the second stitch over the first and knit it, knit the first, slip the fourth stitch over the third and knit it, knit the third; continue in this manner till the row is completed.

Repeat the open row, with a plain row between each, till 6 open rows are done; then repeat the 22 rows of the close knitting, as at first, and cast off.

Fan-Pattern Knitting for a Mitten.

Needles No. 19, and fine black netting silk. Set 30 stitches on each of 3 needles; and, after knitting a top either in ribs or any other pattern, begin the fan, by seaming the first stitch; the second stitch plain, except that you take the outside part of the stitch; seam the third; knit the fourth quite plain; bring the thread in front of the next 6 stitches, and knit them, which makes 13 stitches. With the fourth you knit plain, then seam again, as at first, and so on for 1 round.

Second round:—Seam the 3 first stitches, as at the beginning, and wherever you did in the first round; knit the other 13 stitches quite plain.

Third round:—Seam the 3 first stitches, as in the first round, slip the fourth stitch, knit the next, and bring the slipped stitch over them; knit the others plain, till you come to the 2 last before the seamed stitch; then with your left-hand needle take off the last knit stitch, and bring the one from behind over that, which decreases 2 with the one you did after seaming, and so on for 1 round, and every other, till you have reduced the 13 stitches to 7; then begin again the first round.

It is well to count the stitches frequently, that you may have them even, allowing 3 for the ribs and 7 plain, whenever you begin the fan, so that there will be 3 fans on each needle. When you have 4 or 5 rounds of fans, begin the thumb by bringing the silk forward, and knitting a stitch, which increases 1; then knit a plain stitch, and increase the same as before. This do every other row, till you have as many as you think enough—say 30 stitches; leave the 30 stitches, and go on with the hand part, and finish that off at the top; after, knit the thumb. Observe, in increasing, to bring your silk directly over the stitch you increased to the right hand; and to the left, knit over, and bring the silk in front of the stitch after the increased.

Corkscrew Muffatees.

Five skeins of German wool are required for each: the 2 first and last should be alike, the middle one white. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 3 needles.

First round:—Seam 3 stitches and knit 3, seam 3 and knit 3. Continue this for 2 rounds; then knit 3 rounds, knitting the 2 first and last on each needle plain; the intermediate ones, 3 plain and 3 seamed as before.

The next 3 rounds:—Knit the 1st and 2 last stitches plain, with 3 seamed and 3 knit between them. Three rounds of 3 stitches plain and 3 seamed. Then 3 rounds, the first 2 and last stitches seamed, and the middle 3 plain, and 3 seamed. Then seam the first and last 2 stitches of the next 3 rounds, and begin the whole pattern again, only knitting 3 rounds instead of 2, as at first, of 3 seamed and 3 plain.

Gentlemen's Cuffs: an Excellent Pattern.

Shetland wool. Needles No. 20. Cast on 33 stitches on 2 needles and 36 on the third. Seam 8 rows all round, knit 8 rows plain, seam 8 rows, knit 8 rows plain, seam 8 rows, knit 1 row plain, rib in 3's 84 rows, knit 1 row plain, seam 8 rows, knit 8 rows plain, seam 8 rows, knit 8 rows plain, seam 8 rows. Cast off.

Receipt for a Stocking.

No. 10 Mee's Persian thread, and needles No. 22, are the proper sizes. Cast on 56 stitches on the first needle, and 48 on each of the other 2. Knit 1 row plain. Second row: knit 40 stitches plain, seam a stitch, knit all round plain. Knit 12 rows in the same way, all plain but the seam-stitch. Now the pattern begins: seam a stitch, knit 23 plain, seam a stitch, knit 15 plain. This will bring you to the centre seam-stitch. Seam this stitch, and knit 15 plain. This brings you to the end of the first needle. Seam a stitch, knit 23 plain, seam a stitch, knit 23 plain. This will end the second needle. Seam a stitch, knit 23 plain, seam a stitch, knit 23 plain. This ends the third needle. Seam a stitch, knit 6 plain stitches, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward and knit 1. Continue to bring the cotton forward and knit 1 till you have made 12 additional stitches. Knit 5 plain, seam a stitch, knit 15, seam a stitch, knit 15. (This is the back of the stocking, and must always be knit the same—15 plain, 1 seamed, and 15 plain.) Seam a stitch, knit 6 plain, bring the cotton forward, and knit 1. Continue this till you have made 12 additional stitches, as before. Knit 5, seam a stitch, knit 6, bring the cotton forward, and make 12 stitches as before. Knit 5, seam a stitch, knit 6, make 12 stitches as before. Knit 5, seam a stitch, knit 6, make 12 as before, and knit 5. This finishes the row; and you have 60 additional stitches for the pattern. Seam a stitch and knit 35 plain, seam a stitch and knit the back of the stocking, seam a stitch and knit 35, seam and knit 35, seam and knit 35, seam and knit 35. This ends the row. Knit 2 rows more same as the last. You have now made stitches enough for the pattern, and begin it. First row: seam a stitch, knit 2 together 6 times, bring the cotton forward, and knit 1. Continue this till you have 11 holes made. Bring the cotton forward and slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Continue to slip a stitch, knit a stitch, and pull the slipped one over it 4 times more, which should bring you to the seam-stitch. Knit the back of the stocking, and continue this pattern round the other two needles, which will conclude the row. The next 3 rows are knit plain, except the seam-stitches, which must be attended to. This finishes the pattern; and you begin again at the first row, and repeat the pattern 45 times. You then begin the heel: knit the seam-stitch on the 1st needle plain, then knit the pattern-row of the stripe; knit the back of the stocking and knit the 1st stripe off of the next needle, (using the needle you have knit the stripe and the back of the stocking with,) remembering that this is the pattern-row; knit the seam-stitch at the end of the stripe plain. You have now 2 stripes and the plain back of the stocking on the heel needles, and 3 stripes on the front of the stocking; with the front you have at present nothing to do. The first or pattern row of the heel is knit; the remainder of the heel is to be knit with double thread. Second row: slip a stitch, seam 35 stitches, knit a plain stitch, seam 15, knit 1 plain, seam 15, knit 1 plain, seam 36. Third row: slip a stitch, knit 35, seam a stitch, knit 15, seam a stitch, knit 15, seam a stitch, knit 36. Fourth row: slip 1, seam 35, knit 1 plain, seam 15, knit 1 plain, seam 15, knit 1 plain, seam 36. Begin again with the pattern-row, remembering that there is 1 plain stitch at the beginning and end of each needle, which stitch must be slipped at the beginning of every row. Repeat this pattern 9 times: at the 10th time slip a stitch, knit 7 double stitches, make 8 holes, narrowing from the last hole, 7 times, in the same manner as usual; this will reduce the pattern 6 stitches. For the 11th time: slip 1, knit 7 double stitches, make 2 holes, narrowing from the 2d hole in the usual manner; this will have reduced the heel 14 stitches in each stripe, and finishes the pattern. Knit 10 plain rows, knitting all the seam-stitches except the middle one plain. The heel must now be closed; the narrowing must begin in the row of plain knitting, not the seamed one. Knit 26 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 11 stitches, which brings you to the seam; knit 11 stitches beyond the seam, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, turn back, slip 1 stitch, and seam 11 stitches, knit the seam-stitch plain, seam 11 stitches, seam 2 together, turn back, slip a stitch, knit to the seam-stitch and 11 stitches beyond, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Continue this narrowing till you have knit up all the stitches at each side. Take up the loops all along the side of the heel (they should be 29), knit them with the single thread, knitting the 2 last on the needle together. This begins the gore. Knit the 3 stripes on the front needle, in the pattern, as usual, only remembering that you have no seam-stitch between the gore and the pattern; take up the loops all along the 2d side of the heel, and take half the heel stitches on the same needle, then slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2d, pull the slipped stitch over it, knit the remaining stitches on the needle. There should now be 41 stitches on each of the side needles. The middle of the heel ends the row, therefore the 1st needle is the one which begins from that place. Knit 15 stitches plain, make a stitch by taking up a loop of the last row, knit 3 stitches, make another as before, continue to knit 3 and make 1 till you have increased 11 stitches, which will bring you within 4 stitches of the end of the needle; knit them plain. Knit the front needle in the 2d row of pattern, knitting 35 and seaming 1, knitting 35, seaming 1, knitting 35, which ends the needle. Knit 3 stitches, make 1, knit 3 as before, till you have made 11, knit 15 plain, which ends the row. There should now be 51 stitches on each of the side needles. You must knit to within 2 stitches of the end of the 1st needle; knit them together. Knit the front needle in 3d row of pattern. Third needle: slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pull the slipped stitch over it, knit to the end of the needle plain. The next row is not to be narrowed at either place. Continue to narrow the side needles, as directed, every second row, carrying on the pattern on the front needle, till you have reduced the stitches on each side needle, the first to 35, and the second to 36 stitches. There will now be 173 stitches all round. Continue to knit the side needles plain, and the front in pattern, till you have repeated the pattern from the beginning of the gore 32 times, join on the second thread, and narrow the pattern 14 stitches in each stripe in the manner directed for the heel. There will now be 136 stitches on the needles. Knit 8 plain rows. Divide the stitches exactly, leaving 68 on the front needle, and 34 on each of the side needles. The first needle of the row is the same as before. Knit to within 3 stitches of the end, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 plain. Second needle: knit 1 plain stitch, knit 2 together, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 plain. Third needle: knit 1 plain, knit 2 together, knit 1 to the end, knit 1 plain row all round. Continue these alternate rows till you have reduced the stitches to 88, then narrow every row, as directed, till there remain only 30 stitches on the front needle, and 15 on each of the others. Cast off, and fasten the thread.

For a Brioche.

Either 8-thread German or 3-thread fleecy should be used. Pins No. 12. Cast on 90 stitches; keep the wool in front, slip a stitch the reversed way, knit 2 together, pass the wool in front, slip a stitch the reversed way, knit 2 together, pass the wool in front, slip a stitch the reversed way, knit 2 together, and so on. The whole of the knitting is done in this manner; then knit 2 rows of dark for the edge, 2 rows of the colour for the centre, 2 more dark: these 6 rows form an edge, which is done on each side of each piece. Then commence the centre part of the stripe, and knit 2 rows to the end; in the third row, leave 6 stitches at the end, and turn back, as if beginning a fresh row, and knit to the end; in the next row, leave 12 stitches; then 18, 24, 30, 36, and 42 stitches; after leaving 42 stitches, you must only leave 3 more each time instead of 6; and next leave 45, 48, 51, and so on, until you have only 15 stitches left; then knit 2 rows of dark (the whole number of stitches), 2 of the centre colour, 2 of dark; and take it off like common knitting. This completes 1 piece, 16 of which are required, and look pretty placed—scarlet, white, blue, gold, scarlet, white, lilac, green: this forms half the brioche, and the colours are repeated.

Very Pretty Vandyke Border.

First row:—Cast on 10 stitches, slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice over the pin, knit 2 together, knit 1 plain.

Second row:—Slip 1, knit 1, knit half the stitch turned twice over the needle, seam the other half, knit 2, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Third row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain stitches.

Fourth row:—Make a stitch, knit 4, knit 2, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Fifth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit 2 together, knit 1 plain.

Sixth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, knit the first half of the double stitch, seam the other half, knit 1, knit the first half of the double stitch, seam the other half, knit 2 plain, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Seventh row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit the remainder of the stitches plain.

Eighth row:—Knit 9 plain stitches, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Ninth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice over the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat this 3 times. Knit 1 plain stitch.

Tenth row:—Knit 2, knit first half of double stitch, seam the other half, knit 1 double stitch as before, knit 1, knit double stitch as before, knit 2, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Eleventh row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 10 plain stitches.

Twelfth row:—Knit 3 plain stitches, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1 plain, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Thirteenth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice over the needle, and knit 2 together. Repeat this 4 times. Knit 1 plain.

Fourteenth row:—Knit 2, double stitch as before, knit 1, double stitch as before, knit 1, double stitch as before, knit 1, double stitch as before, knit 2, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Fifteenth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit the remaining stitches plain.

Sixteenth row:—Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Seventeenth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, pass the thread twice over the needle, and knit 2 together. Repeat this 5 times. Knit 1.

Eighteenth row:—Knit 2, double stitch as before, knit 1 plain, double stitch as before, knit 1, double stitch as before, knit 1, double stitch as before, knit 1, double stitch as before, knit 2, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

Nineteenth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit the remainder of the stitches plain.

Twentieth row:—Cast off all the stitches but 10 (there should be 23 in all), knit 5 plain, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together.

This completes 1 vandyke. You then begin again from the first row, and repeat these 20 rows till sufficient length is done.

For Children's Gaiters.

For this, two-thread white fleecy is required, and No. 11 pins. Cast on 22 stitches, and knit 18 plain rows, increasing at the toe every time; there will then be 30 stitches on the pin, 14 of which must be let off at the heel on to a third pin; then knit 24 plain rows without increasing. Cast on as many extra stitches as you before let off, and knit 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch every row, until only 22 stitches are left. This completes the foot part. For the leg, take up 14 stitches on each side, and 12 in the centre; knit 20 plain rows without increasing, and afterwards increase 1 every third row at each end until 54 rows are done; knit 24 rows with increasing, knit 20 plain rows, decreasing 1 every other row; then knit 10 rows, knitting 2 stitches and seaming 2, without increasing or decreasing; knit 6 plain rows, and cast off.

For an Under Spencer.

For the sleeve, cast on 40 stitches, knit 6 rows plain knitting, seam and knit in twos 20 rows (the stripes at the beginning and ends will have 3 stitches), knit 6 rows plain knitting.

Seventh row:—Knit 3 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4 stitches. Continue making a stitch, knitting 4 between, to the end of the row. Knit a stitch, increase a stitch, knit to within 2 stitches of the end, increase a stitch by knitting 2 in one loop. Continue increasing a stitch in every 6th row till there are 72 stitches; cast off 18 stitches, knit to the end of the row; cast off 18 more. Knit 2 together at the beginning of every row till only 24 stitches remain. Cast off, and sew up the sleeve.

For the back, begin at the waist by casting on 28 stitches, knit 3 plain rows, knit 3 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. Continue making a stitch, and knitting 6 between, to the end of the row; knit 6 rows, knit 3 stitches, increase 1 by knitting 2 in one loop, knit to within 4 stitches of the end, increase 1 as before, knit 3, the next row knit plain. Continue to increase a stitch till within 3 stitches of the beginning and end of the needle, every second row, till there are 82 stitches. The next row, knit 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit till within 5 of the end of the row, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 16 rows without increasing or decreasing (this is for the arm-hole); knit 3, knit 2 together, knit to within 5 of the end, knit 2 together, knit 3. Continue to decrease every row in this manner till only 24 stitches remain; cast off.

For the fronts, begin at the waist, cast on 52 stitches; knit 3 rows, knit 3 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. Continue to make a stitch, and knit 6 between, to the end of the row; knit 12 rows, knit (from the front) 11 stitches, increase a stitch by knitting 2 in 1, knit to the end of the row, knit 3 rows, knit 12 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 13 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 15 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 17 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 18 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 19 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end. Knit 3 rows, knit 20 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end. There should now be 61 stitches on the needle. Knit 8 rows, without either increasing or decreasing: knit from the front 45 stitches; cast off 9; take another needle, knit the 7 which remain, knitting together the 2 first at the end of the needle, where you cast off every row till only 1 is left; cast off.

This is the beginning of the arm-hole. Knit 2 together at the beginning of each row at the arm-hole, until it is reduced to 37 stitches; knit 32 rows without increasing or diminishing; cast off 10 stitches from the front, knit a stitch, knit 2 together. Continue to decrease a stitch in front every row (inside the first stitch) till only 20 stitches remain. Leave off decreasing in front; knit to within 2 stitches of the end next the arm-hole; increase a stitch as before. Continue to do this every row till there are 27 stitches; knit a plain row, cast off, take up the stitches down one side of the spencer, knit 3 rows at one side, knit 3 stitches from the bottom, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit to the end of the row, knit 5 rows, cast off; at the other side knit 3 rows, knit 3 stitches from the bottom as before, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 10, make 1 stitch, knit 10, make 1 more, knit 10, make 1, knit 10, make another stitch, knit to the end.

For the button-holes, knit 5 rows, cast off, sew the back and fronts together, take up the stitches all round the neck, knit 3 rows, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, make a stitch. Continue to make a stitch, and knit 6 between, to the end of the row. This is for a string to pass through, as are also the holes at the waist. Knit 8 rows, cast off, and sew in the sleeves.

Netted Shawl.

Make a foundation of 108 stitches, and net on the narrow mesh 25 rows with white, 25 with the colour for the centre alternately, till you have 5 stripes of white and 4 of coloured; this completes the centre.

For the border, on the second-sized mesh:—Net entirely with double wool throughout, and 2 stitches made in every corner stitch in the wide rows, in addition to the pattern.

Second row:—Take 2 stitches together and net them as one on the same mesh as the row before, also with white, and the 2 next rows.

Repeat these 4 rows till you have net all the shades, beginning with the lightest and ending with the darkest; 4 rows of each.

For the fringe, on the wide mesh, with double wool, taking the 2 shades marked for the fringe.

Another Pretty Pattern for a Knit Purse.

Pins No. 16. Cast on 76 stitches, knit 1 plain stitch at each edge, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, seam 1. Four skeins of silk are required, and passing 3 beads at a time makes it very handsome: 3 bunches of No. 6 beads, the beads are passed in every alternate row at the made stitch; every row is the same.

For a Knitted Collar.

First row:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 plain.

Second row:—Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2.

Fifth row:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass the cotton 4 times round the needle, knit 2 together, knit 1, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, pass the cotton twice round the needle, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Sixth row:—Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 3, seam 1, knit 1, seam 1, knit 2.

Begin with the first row again, and repeat the pattern 15 times; 16th time, knit the first 6 rows of the edging. Cast on 56 stitches on the same needle, knit the 56 stitches, and the 7th row of the edging (remembering that the first stitch of every row of the edging must be knit now, and not slipped), knit the 8th row of edging, seam the 56 stitches.

First row of pattern:—Slip 1, knit 3*, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 1, cotton forward and knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from *, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, knit the first row of the edging.

Third row:—Slip 1, knit 3*, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 3, cotton forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from *, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit the third row of the edging.

Fifth row:—Slip 1, knit 3*, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward, knit 5, cotton forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from *, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, cotton forward and knit 2 together, knit the fifth row of the edging.

Seventh row:—Slip 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one*, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2, cotton forward and knit 1, repeat from *, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward and knit 1, knit the seventh row of the edging.

Ninth row:—Slip 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one*, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, cotton forward and knit 3, repeat from *, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward and knit 1, knit the first row of the edging.

Eleventh row:—Slip 1, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one*, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward and knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 together, knit 2, cotton forward, knit 5, repeat from *, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, cotton forward, knit 1, knit the third row of edging.

Begin with the first row again. Care must be taken to knit the proper rows of the edging; knit the collar the length you please, cast off from the straight side 56 stitches, repeat the edging pattern 16 times, cast off, and sew the edging neatly on to the sides of the collar; sew a narrow band of muslin to the neck part to make it firm.

It will be observed that, in beginning the second time with the first row of the collar pattern, it is the fifth row of edging which must be knit, and so on every second time the pattern is begun.

Pretty Feather-Pattern for the Border of a Shawl.

First row:—Knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 1 and knit 1 for four times, knit 2 together, knit 2 together.

Open Diamond Pattern for the Centre of a Shawl.

Twelve stitches to a pattern. This pattern looks extremely well in stripes of scarlet and white, 18 rows of each. For a large shawl, cast on 240 stitches.

First row:—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, repeat.

Third row:—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, repeat.

Fifth row:—Make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, and repeat.

Seventh row:—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, and repeat.

Ninth row:—Make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, and repeat.

Eleventh row:—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, and repeat.

Thirteenth row:—Knit 1,* make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, and repeat from * at the end of the row, knit 2 together.

Fifteenth row:—Knit 1*, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 7, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, and repeat from *.

Seventeenth row:—Knit 2 together*, make 1, knit 9, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, and repeat from *.

Fan Pattern.

First row:—Knit 2, (make 1 and knit 1 for five times,) make 1, knit 2, and repeat.

*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXERCISES IN KNITTING ***

Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will be renamed.

Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark license, especially commercial redistribution.

START: FULL LICENSE

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK

To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work (or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at www.gutenberg.org/license.

Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works

1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property (trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.

1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.

1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the United States and you are located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when you share it without charge with others.

1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any country other than the United States.

1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:

1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, copied or distributed:

This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org . If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.

1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™ trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.

1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™.

1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project Gutenberg™ License.

1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website (www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.

1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works provided that:

• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.”
• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ works.
• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of receipt of the work.
• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works.

1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.

1.F.

1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment.

1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGE.

1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further opportunities to fix the problem.

1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.

1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.

1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any Defect you cause.

Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™

Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from people in all walks of life.

Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org.

Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation

The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit 501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws.

The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact

Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation

Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations ($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt status with the IRS.

The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate .

While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who approach us with offers to donate.

International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.

Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate.

Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works

Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.

Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.

Most people start at our website which has the main PG search facility: www.gutenberg.org .

This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™, including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.

Border, Pretty Vandyke	98
Bodice, A Knitted	49
Bag, Shell Knitting for a	52
Basket Serviette, Pretty Pattern for a	54
Border, Pretty Open Diamond	81
Brioche, For a	97
Cap, Shell Pattern for a Baby's	45
Carpet Hookah, or Oriental Mat	55
Cap Half, for wearing under a Bonnet	62
Cuffs, Honeycomb	83
Comforter, For a	67
Comforter, For another	68
Counterpane, Bell Pattern for a	69
Cuffs, Gentlemen's	87
Collar, Beautiful Knitted	112
Edging, New Pattern for Lace	37
Edging, Narrow Vandyke	29
Fish Serviette	33
Fringe for Chair Covers, &c.	35
Fan Pattern	124
Gaiters, Children's	104
Hood, Baby's Very Pretty	30
Muff, For a	64
Mitten, Swiss Pattern for the Top of a	65
Muffatees, Corkscrew Pattern	86
Mitten, Fan Pattern	84
Pattern, A Pretty open	51
Penwiper, For a Knitted	71
Pelisse, Very elegant Knitted	57
Purse, Pretty Pattern for a Knitted	111
Shawl, Leaf Pattern for Half-Square	39
Shoe, For a Baby's	79
Shoe and Stocking, A Baby's	42
Shawl, A Shetland	66
Scarf, Beautiful Pattern for a	74
Shawl, Netted	110
Shawl, Pretty Feather Pattern for the Border of a	120
Shawl, Open Diamond Pattern for the Centre of a	121
Spencer, For an Under	105
Sugar Plum Stitch	38
Stocking, Receipt for a	88
Twisted Knitting	78

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Exercises in Knitting

EXERCISES IN KNITTING.

INDEX.

RECEIPTS FOR TWELVE CHAIR COVERS, IN DIFFERENT PATTERNS.

RECEIPTS IN KNITTING. [1]