THE
LADY’S KNITTING-BOOK.

THE
LADY’S KNITTING-BOOK.

BY
E. M. C.
AUTHOR OF ‘THE LADY’S CROCHET-BOOK.’

CONTAINING EIGHTY CLEAR AND EASY PATTERNS
OF USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL
KNITTING.

Second Edition, revised and enlarged.

LONDON:
HATCHARDS, PICCADILLY.
1874.

LONDON
John Strangeways, Printer ,
Castle St. Leicester Sq.

{vii}

In sending this little work before the public, I have tried to remedy one fault which I have often heard complained of, namely, that knitting-books generally give so many more stitches than are really required. This is partly owing to the different qualities of wool used by different knitters, and partly also, to a certain extent, whether the worker knits loosely or tightly. The following directions are for medium knitters. As knitting sometimes shrinks in the washing, I should advise my readers to try and knit moderately loose. But, of course, the principal thing is to have the same sized wool or silk as that for which the directions are given; and this is especially important in socks and stockings. I will therefore state that Charity wheeling is the thickest and most harsh kind of yarn made; Scotch wheeling is a trifle less coarse. Scotch fingering is the usual yarn sold for socks and gentlemen’s stockings: it ought to be very strong, and to appear about the same size {viii} as Berlin. If it looks finer (and some does) put on more stitches than are given. For couvrettes, and things of that kind, the size of the wool and pins is, of course, a matter of less importance, as it does not signify whether the work is a trifle larger or smaller than intended; but in stockings, a slight thing makes a good deal of difference in the fit.

I have also endeavoured to explain everything at full length, so as to enable inexperienced knitters to find out the patterns by themselves; the cost of each article is put, whenever possible, at the head of the pattern.

‘ To purl or pearl’ and ‘to seam’ mean the same thing; that is, to put the wool round the right-hand needle. Thus: the wool hangs straight down, it must be lifted and placed round the needle from right to left. You must then insert the right-hand needle into the stitch, exactly the opposite way as in ordinary knitting.

‘To decrease’ is simply to knit two stitches together. Another way is to slip a stitch, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over it.

‘To take two together’ means to knit two together.

‘To increase,’ you must knit both into the lower part of the stitch, and also into the stitch itself.

The directions given for silk stockings are worked with Adams and Co.’s silk, 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E. It is very good, and of lovely colours. Patterns are sent free, and all orders can be sent by post. Any uncommon shade can be dyed to order, provided it be not for less than 1 lb. of silk.

{10}

The prices are as follow:—Imperial knitting-silk, the best quality, any colour, 3 s. per 2 oz. skein. Filoselle, any colour, 2 s. per oz., or 3 d. per skein of 15 yards. Embroidery silk, 1 s. 6 d. per oz. Knitting-pins, 2 d. per set of four. These knitting-silks are guaranteed fast colours, and are beautifully bright and soft.

Those of my readers who prefer a coarser knitting-silk will be glad to hear that Mr. Adams is now making some.

For a lady’s stocking it is best to decrease once and increase three times for the calf of the leg. For a gentleman’s this is unnecessary. Most of these directions are for ribbed stockings, as they fit so much better; but if preferred plain, of course the same number of stitches is required.

You must always remember in ribbed stockings to carry on the ribs and seam-stitches all down the back of the heel, until you begin to round it. The ribs on the front of the foot must be continued straight on, until within an inch of the decreasing for the toe.

The seam-stitch is made by knitting a certain stitch in two rounds and pearling it in the third.

Before decreasing for the instep, do two or three plain rounds and then begin.

The ‘flap,’ or heel before it is rounded, ought to be three inches, or even more, as a long heel wears better. It also makes it much stronger to knit it double with Angola wool, of the same colour as the knitting; it can be bought at any linen-draper’s on wooden reels for 2 d. One reel does a pair.

{11}

Except for young boys, socks fit quite well without being decreased at all for the ankle; therefore I only give one pattern on the decreasing principle.

With silk stockings the size of pins is important.

To inexperienced knitters the heel seems to present mountains of difficulty, but in reality the mountain is but a mole-hill after all. The following pattern is one of the best.

Divide your stitches. We will say you have 50 altogether, on three needles: take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch, and knit these 25 backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds (making the seam-stitch all the same); you must pearl backwards, so as to keep the knitting even. Continue until you have made a flap about three inches long, always slipping the first knitted stitch. Now knit, from the right-hand side, the 12 stitches; then the seam-stitch, which from this time forward you cease to make. Knit 4 stitches beyond it; knit 2 together; knit 1; turn, pearl until you get to 4 beyond the seam-stitch, pearl 2 together, pearl 1, turn. Knit until you come to the stitch in the previous row where you turned—you may know it easily by the little hole which was formed by the turning; you now knit 2 together and knit one more stitch, then turn. Pearl the next row, of course always pearling 2 together where the little hole has been left, and so on until you have gradually worked off the stitches. You then pick up the side-stitches of this flap and the heel is finished.

Put half your stitches on one needle, a quarter on the second, and a quarter on the third needle. Thus: suppose you have 60 stitches, you must have 30 on one side and 15 on the other two. The 30 must be the front or ribbed part, the two pins with 15 stitches on them ought to be the sole part. In doubling your knitting now, the front part ought to lie evenly on the sole of the foot. Begin to knit the 30 stitches; knit 27, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. Now begin the next pin; knit 1, knit 2 together. Continue plain knitting. Now begin the 3rd pin; knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. Now you begin again on the 30. Knit 1, knit 2 together. Continue plain. Do two rounds plain, and then decrease again in the same manner 4 stitches in every round, leaving always 2 stitches between the decreasing, remembering always to do two rounds of plain knitting between each decreasing round.

Repeat for two inches and cast off.

Some people only do one round between the decreasing: this plan makes the toe rounder and more puckered.

On the right-hand side of the heel, just where the ribs leave off, you slip 1, knit 1; pass the slipped stitch over; continue plain knitting; and where the ribs begin again you knit 2 together. You must remember that on the right side of the heel you slip, and on the left that you knit 2 together.

(MEDIUM SIZE.)

2 oz. black and 2 oz. rose-coloured Imperial knitting-silk. Pins, No. 17.

Cast on 128 stitches in black, do 12 rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now make the first stitch the seam-stitch, and do plain knitting until 4 inches are done, making the stripes come quite evenly, one inch broad. When you have once joined the rose-coloured, let the black thread hang down inside the seam-stitch; do not break off every time you change colour, which must always take place at the seam-stitch. Now do 3 plain and 1 pearl alternately. When 5½ inches are done decrease on each side of the seam-stitch. Do * 7 more rows and increase. Repeat from * twice more. When 12 inches are done decrease for the ankle every five rows until you have 92 stitches. Knit until the stocking is 20 inches long, and then divide for the heel. Proceed as on page 10 ; pick up the side-stitches, and decrease over the instep until you have 90 stitches: the front ribs must be carried on evenly, but the sole is left plain. When the foot is 7 inches long discontinue ribbing. Knit 9 rounds plain, and then decrease (see page 12 ). The foot must be 9¼ inches long. Cast off and sew up carefully on the wrong side.

Proceed as in the former pattern, with 128 stitches, in the finest kind of silk. Plain silk stockings are the easiest to knit, but when finished the striped ones are very pretty, especially when worn to match the dress, with low shoes.

(AVERAGE SIZE.)

Cast on 108 stitches. Rib by doing 1 plain, 1 pearl. When 3 inches are done, do 3 plain and 1 pearl for 8½ inches. Turn the heel as on page 11 . Decrease at the instep to 96. Carry on the ribs in the front part, but let the sole be plain; when 8 inches are done leave off ribbing and do 8 plain rounds. Decrease as on page 12 , and when the foot is 10¼ inches long, cast off and sew up.

The following pattern is in stripes of black and blue, but it will do equally well plain. 2 oz. blue and 2 oz. black Imperial knitting-silk. Pins, No. 17. If coarser silk is used, knit with pins No. 16 and cast on 128.

Cast on 138 stitches in black, and proceed exactly the same as with Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stockings, page 16 . Measure an inch of each coloured knitting alternately: it is better to measure than to count the rows, as silk is apt to be unequal. The ankle ought to be 100 stitches. Knit a flap 3 inches long for the heel, turn it, pick up the side-stitches, and decrease at the instep to 98. After the first joining of the black and blue, pass the colour you are not using at the back; always change the colour at the seam-stitch: in that way you need not break off the silk when you have finished a stripe, but keep on with both balls, so as to join the silk only once. The remainder as page 16 .

Knitted with Adams and Co.’s thickest knitting-silk and 4 pins, No. 16.

Cast on 120, knit a plain round. Knit 2 pearl, 2 plain, for 8 rounds, and now begin to knit plain, making the first stitch the seam-stitch. In this stocking you need not increase for the calf, unless you wish to make it a larger size. If you rib the stocking, begin when 4 inches of plain knitting are done; knit (or pearl) the seam-stitch, * pearl 1, knit 3; continue from *. When 12 inches are knitted decrease every 5th row until you have only 84 stitches on your pins. When the stocking is 20 inches long divide for the heel, by taking 21 on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit the heel as on page 11 . Pick up the side-stitches, and reduce over the instep to 80. Make the foot 9 inches long, reducing for the toe as on page 12 .

Pins, No. 15. 1 lb. merino makes several pairs.

Cast on 116 stitches.

With Berlin fingering-wool only cast on 98, and proceed as with Girl’s Stocking, page 19 .

In merino yarn and pins No. 17.

Cast on 23 on the first pin, 22 on the second, and 20 on the third. Knit a plain round, keeping the first stitch as the seam-stitch. Do ten rounds in ribs of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now do plain {16} knitting, and decrease twice in every fourth round for 12 rounds. Knit 10 rounds. Take 14 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, knit backwards and forwards for 20 rows; turn (see page 11 ). Take up 10 side-stitches, and reduce until you have 56 for the foot. Do 26 rounds, decrease, and cast off.

Pins, No. 15, and 11 skeins of best Scotch fingering-yarn.

This is the largest size, suitable for a gentleman of six feet in height.

Cast on 112, 37 on two pins and 38 on the third pin. Rib for about an inch by doing 1 plain and 1 pearl, remembering to have the first stitch on the first needle as the seam-stitch. You make this, by working it plain in 2 successive rounds and pearling it in the next. Then do plain knitting for 5 inches. You now begin to rib as follows:—Knit or pearl the seam-stitch, knit 3 and pearl 1. Continue to knit 3 and pearl 1 every row until 12½ inches are done. Then begin to decrease every 8 rows. You decrease on the right-hand side of the seam-stitch by slipping a stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Work the seam-stitch and knit 2 together. If the stitch to be slipped happens to be a pearl stitch, you must not slip it but merely pearl two together on both sides. You will thus decrease 16 stitches, and now 16½ inches ought to be done. Then knit 5 more inches. You ought now to have 94 stitches for the ankle and divide for the heel. Proceed for this as on page 11 ; but as this is a large size, you must make the flap 3½ long, always slipping the first stitch. When you have turned the heel you must take up 21 stitches, and decrease for the instep at first {17} every row; and the last 6 decreasings do every other row until you have only 92 stitches. When 9 inches of the foot are done (measuring the whole of the heel as well), you begin to decrease for the toe, which takes up 2 more inches; you then cast off, and sew up the toe on the wrong side.

(SUITABLE FOR POOR PEOPLE.)

Charity yarn, 3 s. 6 d. per lb. This yarn can only be bought by the lb. Pins, 14 or 15.

Cast on 56, 20 on two pins, and 16 on the third. Knit 3, pearl 3, alternately: make a seam-stitch. Rib in this way for an inch. Decrease on each side of the seam-stitch. Do 7 more rows, decrease again. Rib the sock for about 3 inches, 1 row plain, and decrease again. You must now decrease again every 6 rows, when you ought to have 38 stitches.

For the heel, take 9 on each side of the seam-stitch, and pearl and knit until 3 inches are done. Turn and take up the side-stitches. Decrease every row until you have only 38. When the foot is 8 inches long decrease for the toe and cast off.

(ANOTHER GOOD PATTERN, VERY EASY.)

Knitted in charity yarn or wheeling-yarn.

Cast on 48, rib in 2 and 2 alternate, plain and pearl stitches. Rib 3 inches, and do the rest in plain knitting until 8 inches are done. Take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, {18} continue as on page 11 . Pick up the side-stitches, decrease for the instep until you have 38 stitches, or until the foot measures 8 inches in breadth; that is, 4 when doubled. When the foot is 8 inches long decrease for the toe. Make the foot altogether 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up. This pattern, which is very easy and without any decreasings at all, fits exactly.

Cast on 54. Proceed as in above pattern, without any decreasings, until you come to the heel. Divide your stitches, knit a flap of 3 inches, turn your heel, reduce for the instep until you have 48 stitches. Make the foot 8 inches long, decrease until the foot is 10 inches altogether in length. Cast off and sew up. This wool is so thick and strong that it is hardly necessary to do the heels and toes double with Angola.

Scotch wheeling-yarn—1 lb. at 4 s. 3 d. makes nearly 3 pairs. They are very strong and nice for the poor. Pins, 15 or 16.

Cast on 69. Knit 14 rounds, 2 plain, 2 pearl; make the first stitch the seam-stitch. Then 50 plain rounds. Decrease on each side of the seam-stitch 5 plain rounds. Increase 3 times with 5 plain rounds between each, increasing 20 plain rounds. Decrease with 6 plain rounds between every decreasing until you have only 53 stitches. Do 34 plain rounds for the ankle. Divide for heel and do the flap, 29 rows. Take up 18 stitches on each side. Reduce at the instep until you have 52 stitches. Do the foot as in preceding pattern, except that this one need only be 9½ inches long.

In white Scotch fingering-yarn.

Cast on 80. Knit 12 rounds, 1 plain and 1 pearl. Plain knitting for 4 inches. Rib 1, knit 3, until you have done 66 rounds. Now decrease on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit 5 rounds and increase in the same way. Do this twice more, and you ought now to have 84 stitches. When 11 inches are done decrease every 8 rows, and knit plain until the stocking is 16½ inches long; then divide for heel. Knit and pearl 32 rows, and proceed as on page 18 . Pick up 16 side-stitches, and after 2 rounds keep decreasing every row for the instep until you have only 68. Work 7¼ inches and decrease. The foot ought to be 9¼ inches long. Cast off and sew up.

(LARGE SIZE.)

The same as the following pattern, but cast on 94. When you have decreased the instep, let the foot be 92.

(SMALL SIZE.)

This also does for a boy from 12 to 14.

Pins, No. 15. Grey or brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, as bought at Haig & Vince’s, 209 Oxford Street, 6 s. per lb. 1 lb. makes 4 pairs, leaving some over; 2 lbs. make 9 pairs of socks.

{20}

Cast on 80. One plain round; make the first stitch the seam-stitch. Knit in ribs of 1 plain, 1 pearl, for 2½ inches. This is for the top part. Now begin to rib in threes; 3 plain stitches, 1 pearl. Continue thus for 8 inches, and then divide for the heel by taking 20 stitches on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit these 21 backwards and forwards, remembering to keep the seam-stitch and ribs even: you must, in coming back, of course pearl 3 and knit 1. When 3 inches or 34 rows are done you discontinue ribbing, and turn the heel as on page 11 . Pick up 18 stitches from the side, and knit the sole plain, but continue the 10 ribs on the 2 front pins. When 2 rounds are done, decrease every round until you have only 70 stitches; then knit until the foot is 7½ inches long. You now discontinue ribbing. Do 8 rounds plain, and then decrease for the toe as on page 12 . This takes up 2 more inches, and your sock ought now to be 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up.

This is a very pretty pattern indeed. It must be knitted on two pins, No. 16: ½ oz. pink Andalusian and ½ oz. white are required.

Cast on 50 stitches with the pink.

First row—knit plain.

Second row—knit the 3 first stitches; * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from * until you come to the last 3 stitches, which must be knitted.

Repeat this row twice.

Fifth row—plain.

Sixth row—pearl.

{21}

Seventh row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *; knit the last stitch.

Eighth row—slip the first stitch, * put the wool over the needle to increase; knit 1; repeat from *. In this way you ought to have 50 stitches on your needles.

Ninth row—knit every stitch.

Tenth row—pearl every stitch.

Eleventh row—slip 1, take 2 together; continue to knit 2 together until you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted.

Twelfth row—the same as eighth.

Thirteenth row—plain knitting.

Fourteenth row—pearl.

Now join the white wool. Do 9 rows of ribbed knitting, but remember to do 3 plain stitches both at the beginning and end of every row.

Tenth row—plain knitting.

Eleventh row—pearl.

Twelfth row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *; knit the last stitch.

Thirteenth row—slip the first stitch, * pass the wool over the needle, knit one; repeat from *. You ought now to have 50 stitches.

Fourteenth row—plain knitting.

Fifteenth row—pearl.

Repeat these four rows three times, so as to have four rows of ornamental holes. Join the pink wool.

Sixteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together; knit 20, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together.

Second row—knit plain.

Third row—slip one, take 2 together; continue to knit plain {22} until you come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must be knitted together.

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—knit 14. Join the white, knit 16; turn round and work on those 16 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without working them. Pearl a row, and knit a row.

Then, slip the 1st stitch,* take 2 together; repeat from *.

The next row slip 1, and increase before every stitch by passing the wool over the needle: you ought now to have 16 stitches.

Knit a row, pearl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times.

You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Cast off the white, and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. Pick up 11 stitches from the side of the white flap, make 11 stitches. Knit 14 rows.

Fifteenth row—*, slip the 1st stitch, take 2 together. This ought to be at the toe. The rest plain.

Sixteenth row—plain knitting.

Seventeenth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the rest of the row being plain knitting.

Eighteenth row—plain.

Nineteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together: take 2 together again; the rest plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the end, when you knit 2 together, the last stitch plain.

Twentieth row—knit plain.

Twenty-first row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again; continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, when you knit the 5th and 4th together; knit the 3rd and 2nd together, and the last stitch plain.

Twenty-second row—knit plain.

{23}

Twenty-third row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again; plain knitting till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which you must knit together.

Twenty-fourth row—plain.

Twenty-fifth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the remainder plain.

Twenty-sixth row—plain.

Twenty-seventh row—slip 1, knit 2 together, the rest plain.

Twenty-eighth row—plain, cast off.

Pick up 11 stitches of pink at c to form the toe.

First row—knit plain. Then increase at the toe until you have 18 stitches. Knit 3 rows plain.

Decrease every other time at the toe, until you have only 11 stitches. Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap d , still knitting with pink wool, and take up the 14 stitches at e .

Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row, and end at the 28th row.

This is rather a difficult pattern, but when finished quite repays one for the trouble taken.

(A VERY EASY PATTERN.)

White Berlin, and pins No. 13.

Cast on 30; and, if speed be a desirability, the entire sock may be done in plain knitting, but the following way is far prettier. Knit the 1st row; then do 24 rows for the leg, in any fancy stitch you like; the last row,* knit 2, wool over the needle, take 2 together. Repeat from *. This forms holes, into which ribbon must afterwards be run.

Twenty-fifth row.—From this time forward you must knit 1, pearl 1; reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice pattern. Cast on 11 extra stitches at the end of each of the next two rows, making 52 in all. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are 62 stitches; do 4 plain rows; then decrease in the same way until you have only 52 again. Cast off and sew up. Crochet a double scallop at the top in blue Andalusian, to give a little finish.

Cast on any number of stitches.

Knit a plain row.

Second row—slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd in the usual manner, but put the thread twice round the needle. Then bring the thread forward as if you were going to pearl, only do not pearl, but take the stitch off, and put the wool in front of the stitch back to its place. Then begin again and knit a stitch with wool twice round the needle.

{25}

Third row—knit the first stitch. Bring the wool forward, and take off the long stitch, putting the thread down in front. Knit the short stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle.

Cast on twice the number of stitches you wish to have on the right side of the knitting.

* Bring the wool forward, slip 1, put the thread back, knit 1, putting the thread twice round the needle. Repeat from *.

Second round—pearl, putting the thread twice round the needle, put the wool back to the other side, and then slip the long stitch. Repeat these two stitches.

You must be very careful in changing these rows, as otherwise it joins. A good plan is to tie a piece of red wool where the pattern begins. Of course the pattern interlaces at the 1st stitch, but otherwise it ought to be quite separate.

Third round—the same as 1st.

Fourth row—the same as 2nd.

Double knitting is most useful for boys’ comforters.

Cast on 60 stitches with pins No. 6, and Berlin fingering or any soft wool, and continue to knit backwards and forwards until the desired length is attained. White or scarlet double Berlin is very warm and soft.

This pattern does for a grown-up person if tolerably large bone needles are used.

The above figure shows the sock completed but not sewn up.

Cast on 80 stitches. Double knitting for 13 rows.

Fourteenth row—double knit 63, plain knit the rest.

Fifteenth row—take off the 17 plain-knitted stitches, double knit 46, plain knit to the end.

Sixteenth row—take off the 17 plain stitches.

Continue double knitting for 13 or 14 rows. Now 1 plain and 1 pearl row.

Knit 1, knit 2 together; knit 6 plain stitches. Repeat to the end of the row.

Pearl 1 row.

Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat to the end of the row.

Pearl 1 row.

Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat.

Knit 1, knit 2 together, 4 plain; repeat until 12 stitches are {27} left, and cast off, leaving a long thread. Fold the work together and sew it up at the heel; gather it a little in the sewing at the toe. This may seem an odd shape, but it fits very well when on the foot.

(MEDIUM SIZE. FOR A YOUNG MAN.)

Steel pins, No. 10. ½ lb. dark claret-coloured double Berlin wool, at 6 s. 6 d.

Cast on 60 stitches.

First row—1 plain, 1 pearl. Repeat.

You must be careful always to pearl where, in the preceding row, you worked a plain stitch. Every row is alike. When you have knitted it long enough, work another side in the same manner, and send it to a tailor to make up. This knitting will not run down when cut.

(LARGER OR SMALLER SIZE.)

As sizes vary so much, a good plan to ensure a nice fit is to measure the front of a waistcoat at the broadest part, and then for every inch allow 6 stitches in double Berlin wool, with steel pins No. 10.

Thus: suppose your waistcoat ought to measure 11 inches across, you must cast on 66 stitches; and for the turnings in you had better allow 9 stitches: altogether, 75 stitches.

1 oz. white and 1 oz. scarlet, 1 skein black, 1 skein yellow Berlin wool; 4 pins, No. 17.

Cast on 20 on 2 needles, and 23 on the 3rd. Knit 2 inches in ribs of 3 plain, 3 pearl. Join the scarlet, knit 1 plain inch. Go on with the white and knit 2 inches, ribbed, 3 and 3. Take a wool-needle, and with black wool make 2 little lengthway stitches on the plain stitches of the ribbed part. Then make a yellow stitch between the black, to imitate ermine spots. Now double back the plain knitting and hem it in a neat fold. Any other colour may be substituted for scarlet. A bright blue is pretty.

(QUICK PATTERN.)

Pins, No. 14. 1 oz. white Berlin, ½ oz. bright blue.

Cast on 20 on two needles, 24 on the 3rd. Plain 3, pearl 3. Knit 3 inches and cast off. With a bone crochet-needle make a very narrow crochet edging lengthways up and down each rib. This has a very pretty and bright effect.

1 oz. brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, price 5½ d.

Cast on 70 stitches, 1 row plain; 2nd row, 2 plain, 2 pearl. Repeat for about an inch. Then 4½ inches of plain knitting. Another inch to match the bottom part, of 2 plain and 2 pearl alternately; remembering, of course, to make the plain {29} stitches in one row, the pearled ones in the next. Cast off, and take care not to cast off too tightly, as this part goes over the hand. Sew up, leaving about four inches unsewn for the thumb. Join the wool at the lower part of the thumb, nearest the wrist; pick up 2 stitches; with your second needle turn and pearl off these 2 together. Now you have 1 stitch upon your needle; knit this stitch and pick up 1 from the side; turn and pearl these two; pick up another from the other side. Continue to pick up these side-stitches, but every 3 rows you must knit (or pearl) 2 together until you have decreased 8 stitches. You will now find it more convenient to have the knitting on 2 pins. Continue knitting and pearling until you have picked up nearly all the side-stitches. These few remaining stitches, about 8 (4 on either side), take up on a third needle, and knit 3 plain rounds.

Fourth round—pearl 2, plain 2. Repeat 9 times and cast off.

One skein blue and one black of purse twist.

These old-fashioned long purses are still occasionally used; the following pattern is rather a small one.

Cast on 72. Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat. Second row plain. When broad enough double it and sew up, leaving about 3 inches open for the money to slip in. Finish off with steel rings and tassels.

With pins No. 17 or 18, and 1 oz. embroidery silk, price 1 s. 6 d. , from Adams & Co. 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E., cast on 144, and proceed as above; or make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the 3 over the other 2.

Second row—plain. Repeat.

(BEAUTIFULLY WARM AND COMFORTABLE.)

Needles, No. 9; merino wool, or 2-ply fleecy; the former for summer wear.

These cost about 1 s. 1 d. each, and are the greatest comfort to those who suffer from the cold.

The 2-ply fleecy is the best wool to use, as it does not wash hard.

For the back—cast on 78 stitches, pearl 3, plain 3, in ribs for 140 rows.

141st row—knit 18 stitches; now turn (these 18 stitches form the shoulder-strap); pearl the 18; knit them; turn, and pearl them. You ought now to be beginning the row again, and this time you pearl; and now pearl the 17th and 18th stitches together; turn and knit back; knit a row, taking the 16th and 17th together; turn and pearl back; knit a row, taking the 15th and 16th together. Turn, and knit the row. Go on in this way, remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the end of every row, until you have done 5 ribs altogether. You ought to {31} have 12 stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to be crossways instead of lengthways.

Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come to the last 18. Work this shoulder the same as the last.

The Fig. is the right-hand shoulder, the plain and pearl each counting as one rib, making 5 in all.

For the front part of the vest you cast on 78 stitches and knit 125 rows. Begin the right-hand shoulder by pearling, and make ribs as before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the left until you have done 7 ribs. Reduce to 12 stitches; make 11 ribs and cast off. Cast off the remaining stitches, and proceed as before with the last 18 for the fourth shoulder-piece.

Now sew up these two sides until you get to within 24 rows from the top of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must now join the rest with a gusset, which you form by picking up one stitch, knit it and turn; in every row you must now take up one stitch, and rib them the same as the other part of the vest in 3 and 3. Thus, the first row you have 1 stitch, the {32} next row 2, the next row 3, and so on. When 24 rows are done, cast off. Sew up the shoulders, and crochet a narrow border of small even holes, into which run a piece of crochet wool or white ribbon.

It is a good plan to pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap, and knit a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve desired.

This takes ¾ lb. of wool, and costs about 9 s. A scarlet or violet crocheted border improves it. It can be finished off with a fringe or not, as suits the taste. Bone pins, No. 7.

Cast on 302. Knit a plain row; knit 1 plain stitch at the beginning and end of every row. * Make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the three over the other two. Repeat from *. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows until enough is done, and cast off.

Any fancy stitch will do: it had better be rather a simple one.

½ oz. pink and ½ oz. black Andalusian would do three. They would cost 3½ d. each. 5 needles, No. 16.

Cast on 12 stitches on 1 pin for the spout, 10 on each of the three other needles; 4 rounds plain. Now do rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl, except the spout, which leave plain, decreasing 1 stitch at each side of the twelve in the first 4 rounds, and 1 stitch on every alternate side in the next 8 rounds. The spout is now finished, and you ought to have 31 stitches on the needles.

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Knit 12 rounds, 2 pearl, 2 plain, except under the spout, where 1 stitch is to be plain.

With black begin the bowl; increase by knitting 2 in 1; pearl 2 rounds; knit 4 rounds with pink; knit 1 round with black, increasing 12 stitches (one in every six); pearl 2 rounds with black; knit 4 rounds pink; knit 1 round black, increasing 12: there ought to be 86 now. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 6 rounds pink. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink. Knit 1 round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink, 1 round black, decreasing 6. Pearl 2 black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. Divide these by 6. Knit 11 rounds pink, decreasing 6 stitches in each round by knitting 2 together at the commencement of each division, where a star of 6 points will be found, and 6 stitches will remain on the needles. These are to be drawn up and sewn together. Now cast on 6 stitches in black, and knit and pearl alternately until you have done 3 inches: this is for the handle; attach one end to the bowl and the other to the top of the jug.

(LONG SHAPE.)

Andalusian wool as the preceding pattern, and pins No. 15.

Cast on 12 stitches for the spout, and 15 on two other pins. Knit 4 rounds. Now decrease each side of the spout in every round. Do 9 rounds and then 3 pearl rows; then 9 more plain rows. Now for the bowl—increase 1 stitch in every five, and then do three rounds in black; now join the pink and * knit 2 {34} together, make 1, knit 1: repeat from *, the next round plain. Repeat these rows twice more, and with black increase again 1 in every 8. Then with pink repeat the pattern from *, and when the black begins again decrease instead of increasing. Repeat as in preceding pattern and sew up. Take up 6 stitches at the top of the jug opposite the spout, and knit and pearl for three inches; cast off. Leave about a third of an inch hanging, and above that attach it to the bowl.

(ON TWO PINS.)

Berlin wool, and pins No. 15.

Cast on 3 stitches in blue or any other bright colour. 1st row, make 1, knit 1, repeat. 2nd row, make 1, pearl 2, repeat. 3rd row, make 1, knit 3, repeat. 4th row, make 1, pearl 4, repeat. Continue in this way until you have 42 stitches. Pearl a row and join the black wool. * Bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Knit the next row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Do the same in blue, then the same in black again. Join the blue, * knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat from *. The next row plain. Do this for 4 rows. To form the neck of the jug rib with black for 6 rows. For the spout, knit to the middle; increase, knit 1; increase; the rest plain. Pearl a row, increasing on each side of the 2 centre stitches. Increase in this way until you have 14 for the spout; cast off in blue. Sew up the jug and make the handle in blue, beginning a third of an inch from the top; take up 4 stitches; pearl and knit alternately until long enough, then attach to the bowl of the jug.

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This can be knitted in Andalusian and pins No. 17, but in that case you must make the bowl larger—68 stitches is a good size; and the neck or ribbed part must be done for 12 rows instead of 6.

In 6-thread fleecy wool, ¼ lb. for each stripe. Pins, No. 6. This costs 9 s. 9 d. Scarlet maize, black, green, violet, are pretty contrasts.

Cast on 14 stitches plain knitting until you have attained the required length. The only difficulty is in the casting off. You begin by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, which must be very loose indeed, almost an inch in length; pass the slipped stitch over. Now drop the 3rd stitch and let it run the whole length of the knitting. Continue thus. The dropped stitches are allowed to run down, and they form a kind of loop-pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe at top and bottom.

4-ply fleecy, and bone pins to match.

Cast on 19 and rib cross-ways in nines. When long enough drop the middle stitch. Cast on 9 in white, rib another stripe in the same way, and drop the middle stitch. Crochet with black along every coloured stripe, and join to the white with maize or orange. Two stripes of green and one of purple look very nice.

This is extremely pretty, and is not difficult. The cost of these couvrettes is generally about the same.

2 or 3 skeins of 4-thread fleecy, of each colour, according to the length required. Pins, No. 10. Scarlet, gold, green, violet, dark crimson, and blue. 6 skeins black, and 6 white filoselle, at 3 d. per skein, from Adams and Co., 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E.

Cast on 22. Knit any length you like and cast off. Now select any simple wool-work pattern—a palm is best—or any Moorish pattern, and work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 5 on one strip and 6 on the next, so that they do not come exactly in a line one with another. This has a very handsome effect, indeed. The pattern ought to be worked in black, or black and white filoselle. Join, and add a fringe.

(THIS IS EXTREMELY HANDSOME.)

Pins, No. 5. 3 lbs. and 3 ozs. 12-thread fleecy wool. You must have a third pin pointed at both ends. This costs 25 s.

Cast on 20, and knit 6 plain rows.

Seventh row—knit 4, pearl 4, turn round, and knit and pearl these 4 alternately until 11 rows are done. An easy way of counting is to look at the side of the small strip, where there ought to be 7 large chains. When 11 rows are done you slip {37} these 4 stitches on to the third pin, which you must keep on the right-hand side of your knitting.

Pearl 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the 2nd pin on the left, leaving the 3rd pointed pin hanging down over the right side of the knitting; then pearl the 4 stitches on the above-mentioned 3rd pin; pearl 4, knit 4.

Eighth row—plain knitting.

Ninth row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.

Tenth row—knit 8, turn round, and pearl and knit these 4 {38} alternately until 11 rows are done. Slip them on to the pointed pin, and let it hang down over the right side of the knitting. Knit 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the left one; then knit the 4 on the double-pointed pin; knit the remainder.

Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.

Twelfth row—plain knitting.

Repeat from the 7th row until one yard and a half are done; knit 6 plain rows and cast off. You must knit 5 stripes, three scarlet and two white, and join with Berlin or Scotch fingering. Put a fringe, which must be crocheted on. Take about 24 inches of wool, double it, insert the crochet-needle in a stitch of the couvre-pied and pull the ends of the wool through the loop, and tighten gently with the fingers.

Long wooden pins, No. 10. 1 lb. pink and 1 lb. white, 4-thread fleecy. Costs 15 s. with lining.

Cast on 7 stitches with pink, 7 with white; continue to cast on alternately 7 in each colour until you have 147 altogether. Do * 7 stitches in pink, 7 in white. Repeat 3rd row, 7 pink stitches, and pass the wool in front; then go on with the white. Continue this knitting, and when 7 rows are done do white over the pink squares and pink over the white; you thus make regular rows of squares. You must be careful always to pass the wool after every alternate row to the front of the knitting, so as to have all the long threads on the wrong side: care must be taken not to pull these threads too tightly in passing from one coloured square to another. Make a fringe, and line carefully with pink silk.

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Several of the couvrette patterns would make the above, and nearly all the fancy stitches would be pretty done in stripes of pink and white.

In stripes with cross-stitch sprigs.

Bone pins No. 6, and 4 lb. 6-thread fleecy, scarlet and white.

Cast on 12 stitches; knit a stripe of plain knitting, 208 rows long. Now work about 17 sprigs or any other pattern on it, in bright filoselle silk (see page 10 ), leaving 10 rows between each pattern. Now knit a scarlet stripe 108 rows long. This stripe has no sprigs worked on it. Do 10 scarlet and 9 white stripes, and join together.

This must be made in squares and then sewn together. Cast on with ordinary twine and steel pins any even number of stitches. Have ready narrow pieces of cloth, about 2¾ inches long and ½ inch broad. Knit one plain row. Second row, slip one; * put a strip of cloth between the two needles and knit a stitch; then turn the end of cloth up again so that both ends may come on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. The next row plain. You must pull this knitting rather tight.

The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the pound of scraps. It makes a pretty border to put scarlet stripes at regular intervals.

This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty and warm for quilts, couvrettes, &c.

Cast on, in 6-thread fleecy and pins No. 7, any number of stitches. Do not slip the first stitch, but always knit it.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—put the wool round the needle as if you were going to knit a plain stitch, but instead of knitting let the wool hang straight down over the forefinger of the left hand; wind it round and put it for the second time over the right needle. Wind the wool a second time round the finger, and for the third time put it round the needle; and now knit this stitch, which ought to have the appearance of three in one. Repeat. The next row plain. Do about six rows plain and then repeat with the loops; of course you must only make them on one side of the knitting, and they will require a little pulling to keep them in the right place. This is handsome in stripes of shaded red.

Berlin wool or cotton. Pins, No. 14.

Cast on 14. Knit the desired length, cast off 4 stitches, and then unravel all the rest.

(VERY HANDSOME.)

Have some ends ready cut, and cast on 7 stitches.

First row—knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; take one of the lengths and double it, hang it on the right-hand needle, knit 2 stitches, bring the double ends of wool forward, knit 1 stitch, put the end back, and knit the last stitch.

Second row—knit every stitch plain, taking up with the 4th stitch the loop of fringe wool, and being careful not to split either of them. Continue to the end of the row plain.

Third row—the same as 1st.

Fourth row—the same as 2nd. Repeat.

(WORN INSTEAD OF A FLANNEL ONE.)

Wooden pins about 17 inches long, and then cast on all the stitches you require. With pins No. 5 cast on 360, and knit with scarlet for 1 inch; then 2 inches of white, then 2 inches of scarlet. Now do the rest of the petticoat in double knitting, or some fancy stitch. (See page 42 .) When it is 26 inches long rib 21 rows in 2 plain, 2 pearl, and cast off. Knit a simple crochet scarlet edging. These petticoats pull out several inches longer after being washed.

Both these petticoats take about 15 skeins of petticoat yarn. Bone pins, No. 5.

Begin with scarlet, if preferred, as above; but this pattern is given for entire white wool.

Cast on 120, and knit 25 inches plain, then rib by doing 2 plain and 2 pearl for 24 rows. Cast off. Do another breadth; and for the 3rd and front breadth you must, after the first 12 rounds, decrease at the beginning and end of each row about every two inches. If you do not like to have a gored breadth do this one exactly the same as the other two. Crochet some scalloped edges round the bottom of the petticoat, after having joined the breadths together. These petticoats are beautifully warm and last for a long time. Summer ones can be knitted with the same pins in Scotch wheeling-yarn or 2-thread fleecy, which are much cheaper but not so nice and soft. It makes a charming finish to put a border as on page 44 . You need only make the petticoat 24 inches long in that case.

Cast on with cotton 2 stitches, use pins about No. 14, and increase every row. Do 6 rows of plain and 6 of pearl, so as to make lengthway ribs. When half a square is done decrease at the beginning of every row. When a sufficient number of squares are finished join together with a square piece of calico between each knitted one. Thus: take a piece of calico, turn down the {43} raw edges, double it to the size of the knitted square, and tack the two edges together. Then sew the knitting and the calico together, as if you were doing patchwork. The raw edges of the calico must, of course, be turned inwards, meeting each other so as not to be seen even on the wrong side of the quilt. This is a quick and neat quilt, but is not so pretty as the other patterns.

Cotton, and pins No. 14 or 15. It makes a beautiful berceaunette cover in 2 or 3-thread fleecy, and bone pins. The price so entirely depends on the size of quilt desired that it is impossible to give it exactly. It is a very handsome pattern.

This quilt is made in squares and joined afterwards.

Cast on 1, and you must not forget to increase at the beginning of every row.

Second and third rows—plain knitting.

Fourth row—increase (by putting the cotton round the needle) before every stitch.

Fifth row—you ought to have 6 stitches now. Do 1 plain, 3 pearl, 2 plain.

Sixth row—knit 2, increase; knit 3, increase; knit 2.

Seventh row—knit 2, pearl 5, knit 3.

Eighth row—knit 3, increase; knit 5, increase; knit 3.

Ninth row—knit 3, pearl 7, knit 4.

Tenth row—knit 4, increase; knit 7, increase; knit 4.

Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 9, knit 5.

Twelfth row—plain knitting.

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Thirteenth row—knit 5, pearl 9, knit the rest.

Fourteenth row—plain.

Fifteenth row—knit 6, pearl 9, knit the rest.

Sixteenth row—plain.

Seventeenth row—knit 7, pearl 9, plain the rest.

Eighteenth row—plain.

Nineteenth row—knit 8, pearl 9, knit the rest.

Twentieth row—plain.

Twenty-first row—knit 9, pearl 9, plain.

Twenty-second row—knit 10, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 5, knit 2 together, the rest plain.

Twenty-third row—knit 10, pearl 7, knit the rest.

Twenty-fourth row—knit 11, slip 1, knit 1, take the slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, plain.

Twenty-fifth row—knit 11, pearl 5, plain.

Twenty-sixth row—knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, plain.

Twenty-seventh row—knit 12, pearl 3, plain.

Twenty-eighth row—knit 13, slip 1, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over. This finishes the leaf, and ought to be 28 stitches; the other half of the square is in ribs, decreasing at the beginning of every row.

Twenty-ninth row—pearl, then a plain row, then pearl a row, plain a row, plain another row, pearl. Continue thus in lengthway ribs of 3, until you have decreased to one stitch. Join the squares so that 4 laurel leaves meet in the centre.

Strutt’s knitting-cotton No. 6, and pins No. 16.

This is one of the handsomest patterns there are, but it must be knitted much tighter than ordinary work. Twist the cotton twice round the little finger, and you will thus be enabled to draw the stitches quite tight.

When your squares are done, sew them together at the plain part, at the beginning, where the increasings were made. They ought to make a perfect Maltese cross. Cast on 1 stitch and increase every row. Knit until you have 27 stitches on your needle. This completes the first division.

Twenty-eighth row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Twenty-ninth row—make 1, knit the remainder.

Thirtieth row—make 1, pearl 1, * put thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat from *.

Thirty-first row—make 1, knit the rest.

Thirty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Do the 33rd and 34th rows like the 31st, and now the 2nd division is done.

Thirty-fifth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.

Thirty-sixth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from*. Knit the last stitch.

Thirty-seventh row—make 1, knit 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.

Thirty-eighth row—make 1, pearl 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.

Thirty-ninth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.

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Fortieth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. Pearl the last stitch.

Forty-first row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Forty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Forty-third row—now you begin to decrease. Knit 2 together, knit the rest.

Forty-fourth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.

Forty-fifth row—knit 2 together, put the cotton before the needle. Repeat alternately.

Forty-sixth row—pearl 2 together. Pearl the rest.

Forty-seventh row—knit 2 together, knit the rest.

Forty-eighth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.

Forty-ninth row—like the forty-eighth.

Fiftieth row—now you do the third division again of 2 plain, 2 pearl, according to the pattern; always decreasing at the beginning. In the last row of this division you knit every stitch. You ought to have 27 stitches, and the rest of the square is plain knitting.

It is an improvement after the quilt is finished to run blue ribbon round the holes which surround the cross, to define it, and bring it out more clearly.

Wooden pins, No. 1; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scarlet Shetland wool.

Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 2½ yards. Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at the two sides. Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends and finish off with a large tassel, made in the following way:—Double a skein of white wool twice, then tie it round very tightly with strong wool about two inches from the end; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and tassel together with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel.

Pins No. 13 and coarse cotton.

Cast on 19 for the pattern, and two extra stitches, to have a plain one at the beginning and end of every row.

First row—knit the first stitch, and knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, put the cotton over the needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, pearl, take 2 together, knit 1, pearl 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, pearl 1, take 2 together, knit 1, put cotton over, knit the last stitch.

Second row—1 plain, 3 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 4 pearl, 2 plain, 1 pearl.

Third row—slip the 1st stitch, 1 plain, 2 pearl, 1 plain; put the cotton over the needle, 1 plain; put cotton over, slip 1, knit {48} 1, pass the slipped over; 1 pearl, take 2 together, 1 pearl, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, 1 pearl, take 2 together, the cotton over, 1 plain cotton over, the last plain.

Fourth row—slip the 1st, pearl 4, knit 1, pearl plain, pearl plain, pearl 5, knit 2, plain pearl.

Fifth row—slip 1, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 3, cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, pearl 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, put cotton over, knit 3, put cotton over, knit the last.

Sixth row—slip the 1st, pearl 6, knit 1, pearl 7, knit 2, pearl 1, knit the last.

Seventh row—slip the 1st, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 5, cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, put cotton over the needle, knit 5 plain, cotton over.

Eighth row—1 plain, pearl 16, 2 plain, pearl 1, knit the last plain.

Repeat from the 1st row again.

This forms a handsome border, either for quilts, antimacassars, or baby’s berceaunette cover; especially the latter, done in stripes of plain knitting, in wool.

With Strutt’s knitting-cotton cast on 54 and knit a plain row. First row—knit 2, * knit 2 together, knit 6, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 6, knit 2 together. Repeat *.

Second row—pearl.

Third row—like the first.

Fourth row—pearl.

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Fifth row—like the first.

Sixth row—plain knitting.

Seventh row—pearl.

Eighth row—plain knitting.

Begin again from the 1st row.

(VERY EASY.)

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according to the width you require. We will say 13. Put the wool before the needle and knit 6 plain stitches. This makes 7 stitches on the right-hand needle. Knit 2 together. The rest plain. Every row alike.

This is very pretty, either for the tops of babies’ boots or stockings in fine wool, or for couvrettes, quilts, &c. in coarser.

It takes 8 stitches for the pattern. Cast on as many as you require for the width of the knitting, and do 1 row plain.

Second row—pearl 1, put the wool back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; pearl 1, putting the thread twice round the needle, knit 4. Repeat to the end of the row.

Third row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.

Fourth row—pearl 1, keep the thread forward, slip 1, pass the wool back to its proper place, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch {50} over, pearl 1. Now take the next 2 stitches on a third needle, and keep them on the right side of your knitting; knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit off the 2 on the third needle.

Fifth row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.

Begin again from the 2nd row.

If you desire your cable broader you need only add on a few more stitches, say 9 or 10, to the pattern. With 10 stitches you would have to slip 4 on to the third needle.

It makes quite as handsome a couvrette as the one on page 37 , and costs about the same price. If 6 instead of 12-thread fleece is used, it is of course much cheaper and smaller.

Hood Pattern. —Any number of stitches divisible by 2.

First row—knit 2 together, thread forward. Repeat.

Second row—thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Pearl the last 2 together. Do the next row like the 1st.

Fourth row—pearl 1, * thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat from *.

Fifth row—knit 1, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from *.

Sixth row—like the 4th.

Seventh row—like the 1st. Finish by knitting. Then begin again at the 4th row.

Pretty Pattern, which forms a deep Scallop. —Cast on 12 for each pattern. Knit a row, pearl a row four times.

Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

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Sixth row—pearl. These two rows alternately, until the knitting is long enough.

Open Pattern, for Antimacassar. —Make 1, slip 1, pearl 2 together, make 2, slip 1, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Every row is alike.

Net Pattern. —Any number of stitches which can be divided by 3. Slip 1, thread before the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat.

Large Holes. —Cast on in eights.

First row—knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1; knit 1, pass the slipped over; knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Second row—pearl 1, knit the first part of this stitch and pearl the second, pearl 2, knit the first, pearl the second part, pearl 1. Repeat.

Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over; * knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat from *.

Fourth row—knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2; knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2. Repeat.

This is very handsome for antimacassars in stripes of two or more colours, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the latter cast on in white petticoat yarn 110 stitches on long wooden pins, No. 6. If when finished you wish it larger put a border in rose-bud pattern. For an antimacassar cast on 1 stitch with fleecy wool and coarse bone pins. Plain knitting, increasing at the commencement of every row, until you have 22. (This pattern is in sixes, and you must have 2 plain stitches at the beginning and end of every row to form a border: these must always be knitted plain. There must be an even number of stitches, 22, 28, 34, according to the width required.)

First row—knit the 22 stitches plain.

Second row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Knit 1, putting the wool three times round the needle. Repeat from *.

Third row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Take off 6 long stitches, and pass the first 3 over the second 3, but do not let the latter run off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 6 stitches plainly. Repeat from *.

This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the reverse, as it merely consists in putting three stitches over another three, and then knitting these six afterwards.

Do 2 plain rows, and repeat from 2nd row.

When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to match the commencement, and finish off the points with tassels.

The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different {53} pattern, only you must remember to make the points, by beginning with one stitch and then increasing up to the requisite number, decreasing in the same manner at the end.

All the following patterns are pretty. You must always cast on two extra stitches, so as to have a plain stitch at the beginning and end of every row, and every alternate row is pearled. Always work one or two rows plain for a foundation.

Pearl Pattern. —Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row—pearl 1, slip 1. Repeat.

Third row—slip 1, pearl 1. Repeat.

Go back to the 1st row.

Rain Pattern. —14 stitches are required for each pattern. 1st row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 5, thread forward. Repeat.

Open Pattern. 1st row—knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, bring thread forward. Repeat.

Third row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.

{54}

Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over.

Seventh row—knit 2 together *. Thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over. Repeat from *. Then go back to the 1st row.

Square Pattern, with reversed Holes. —Cast on 10 for each pattern and two over, slip the first and knit the last in every row. Each alternate row is 5 plain, 5 pearl.

First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 3, pearl 5.

Third row—knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 2, pearl 5.

Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 1, pearl 5.

Seventh row—knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, pearl 5.

Ninth row—pearl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward.

Now do every alternate row 5 pearl, 5 plain.

Eleventh row—pearl 5, knit 2, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1.

Thirteenth row—pearl 5, knit 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2.

Fifteenth row—pearl 5, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3.

Leaf Pattern. —7 stitches for each pattern.

First row—thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat.

Third row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass {55} the slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward. Repeat.

Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.

Seventh row—knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3. Repeat.

Ninth row—knit 2 together, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.

Eleventh row—knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.

The next row pearled. Recommence from first row.

Honeycomb. —Small holes. Cast on 6 for each pattern.

First row—pearl 1, putting the thread before the needle twice, pearl 2 together. Repeat.

Third row—pearl 2 together, thread before the needle, pearl 1. Repeat.

Another Pattern. —Cast on 8 for each.

First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 6. Repeat.

Brioche. —Cast on any number of stitches in threes, 21, 30, 36, according to the desired width. * Thread before the needle, knit 2 together, slip 1. Repeat from *.

Nice Pattern for the Tops of Socks. —5 stitches for each pattern.

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First row—pearl 2, keep the thread over the needle, knit 3 together, thread over. Repeat.

Second row—pearl 3, knit 2. Repeat.

Third row—pearl 2, knit 3. Repeat.

Fourth row—like the second.

Very pretty little Pattern. —First row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.

Second row—Pearl 2, thread over, pearl 2 together. Repeat these rows alternately.

Another. —Cast on six for each pattern.

First row—pearl 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Second row—pearl 5, knit 1. These two rows alternately.

Another. —Cast on 8 for each pattern.

First row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2. Repeat. Every other row is—pearl 4, pearl 2 together, thread over, pearl 2.

Third row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1. Repeat.

Fifth row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 4, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

By this time my readers will perceive how much alteration can be made by merely reversing, and slightly altering, the position of knitted, pearled, and slipped stitches, and will doubtless be able to invent many more equally pretty patterns for themselves.

This bodice is meant to wear under the dress. Three skeins scarlet merino and pins No. 5, or Shetland wool and pins No. 7.

Cast on 98 stitches, and rib with 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 12 rows.

Thirteenth row—knit 16, make 1 (by putting the wool round the needle), knit 30, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 16.

Fourteenth row—Plain knitting.

Fifteenth row—knit 17, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 8, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 17.

Sixteenth row—Plain knitting.

Seventeenth row—knit 18, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 10, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 18.

Eighteenth row—plain. Continue in this way until you have done 30 rows with holes and 30 alternate plain rows.

Now, for the front part take 60 stitches, leaving all the rest still on the needle, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on those 60 for 32 rows.

Thirty-third row—cast off 5 stitches, knit the rest plain.

Thirty-fourth row—you must now reduce for the neck at the end of this row by taking 2 together.

Decrease thus every other row for 31 rows; you must have 39 stitches on your needle. Cast off; this part is for the shoulder.

Cast off 16 stitches under the arm.

For the back take 66 stitches, and do 16 rows of plain knitting; then 38 rows, decreasing for the shoulder at the end {58} of each row. Now cast off 28 stitches for the neck. Cast off 16 under the other arm. Now take the remaining 60 stitches for the second front, and do 32 rows as on the other side. Reduce for the neck in the same manner, by casting off 5 at the 32nd row, and then decreasing at the end of every alternate row for 32 rows. Cast off; there ought to be 39 stitches.

Sew the shoulders together, crochet round the neck and sleeves (1 treble, 2 chain), and run ribbon or crocheted chain round the former.

If sleeves are desired, cast on about 48 stitches, and do ribs of 3 and 3 the desired length.

The following diagram will render the explanations easier:—

{59}

A good plan to prevent the front part from stretching too much is, at every 10th row to leave the last 10 stitches before the end unknitted.

This pattern is for an ordinary figure, but after one trial the knitter will find it can be altered to any size.

Pins No. 9, and fleecy or fingering-wool.

Cast on 36, knit 5 plain rows.

Sixth row—knit 4, make 1, knit the remainder. The next row plain.

Eighth row—knit 5, make 1, the rest plain. Continue in this way to make holes each time one stitch further from the edge until 13 holes are done. Then do 6 rows, decreasing once in every row, at the 6th from the edge, on the side where the holes are: this part goes under the arm. Now cast it off, leaving 32 stitches on the needle for the chest; knit these 32 for 22 rows, and then decrease (at the opposite side to where you cast off) for 20 rows, thus making 10 decreasings; knit 3 plain rows and cast off. Do another piece in the same way, and for the back cast on 22 and knit 5 plain rows: this part is for the neck.

Sixth row—knit 4, increase; knit to within 4 of the end, and increase again; knit the remaining 4.

Seventh row—plain knitting.

Do these alternately for 26 rows until you have 48 stitches; knit 16 rows; then knit 1, take 2 together, take 2 together, make 1; plain to within 5 of the end where you make 1, take 2 together, {60} 2 together again, knit the last. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows alternately 12 times, then do 24 plain rows and cast off.

For the neck, pick up about 40 stitches in scarlet and do 4 rows of ribbed knitting. Pick up 100 for the waist and do 8 rows plain, also with scarlet, and 2 rows up the front. Finish off with large buttons and elastic loops, and either knit 4 rows (like the neck) round the sleeves, or put long ones. For the latter cast on 40 stitches and knit 7 inches. Rib 20 rows in scarlet for the wrist.

Three needles, No. 11 or 12, and 2 oz. brown Berlin wool.

Cast on 60 (for a very small child 54 will do), knit 3, pearl 3, for 24 rows. Now do plain knitting for 12 rows, then decrease at the beginning and end of the row. Continue plain knitting, but you must decrease every five rows. When six decreasings are done go on knitting until 78 rows are done.

Seventy-ninth row—knit 21 stitches, take the next 18 for the instep on a third pin and knit backwards and forwards, decreasing at the beginning and end after the first 2 rows. When 18 rows are done cast off.

Sew up the leg, and take up the rest of the stitches for the heel. Do 10 rows, decreasing at the beginning and end of every row. Cast off.

This can be worked in shades, or in any two colours which contrast well.

Berlin and pins No. 14 may be used, casting on 54 stitches. This is rather a small size; to make it larger use coarser wool, and pins to correspond.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—the rest of the cushion is done in Brioche stitch ; leave the last 3 stitches unknitted, turn and go on with the Brioche stitch.

Fourth row—leave the last 6 unknitted and turn.

Sixth row—leave the last 9 unknitted, and so on, 3 more every time you get to the end of the row.

When you have worked off all the stitches, join the next shade and knit the whole row. The next row like the 2nd.

This makes the knitting come into a gradual round. When large enough sew it up and do a second in the same way. Make a round pillow lined with feathers, and put between the knitting, which must be sewn together like a silk pincushion. Draw in the centre, which may be finished off with an ornamental button; the edges can be crocheted or left plain, as preferred.

These cushions used to be very fashionable at one time, although they are seldom seen now. However, fashions change so quickly that they may, perhaps, be used again.

These are very comfortable for people who are at all rheumatic.

Cast on 29 stitches with Berlin wool, knit 14, bring the wool forward, knit the rest. Continue this until 28 rows are done. Then knit 32 rows without increasing. Begin to decrease where you took the wool forward at the 14th stitch by knitting 2 together. Do 28 rows to correspond with the other side; have 29 stitches on your pin, the same as you began with. Cast off, and sew the ends together.

The size of knee-caps must be regulated by the pins, and also by the number of stitches used. Many people consider them better when quite plain, without either increasing or decreasing.

Pins No. 9 and Berlin, or any other soft wool.

Cast on 60, and do 1 plain row. Then do Hood pattern, page 50 , for 5 rows; then 6 rows of plain knitting. Do the rest in any fancy stitch. When the knitting is 4 inches deep do 2 plain rows, 1 pearled, and cast off.

Cast on 22 stitches for the crown, do 1 plain row.

Second row—knit 1, thread over, take 2 together. Repeat; 6 more plain rows, and then any fancy stitch. When 3 inches are done knit a row, decreasing at the beginning and end of the row. Pearl the next, decreasing in the same way. Do 5 more rows in this manner, and cast off. Now sew the crown {63} and head parts together, gathering the fulness at the top, and not at the sides.

Take up 74 stitches for the curtain, or neck part, and do 3 rows of alternate knitting and pearling; let the plain part come on the right side.

In the second row increase after every 2 stitches, so as to have about 110 altogether. When you have done 3 rows do any open pattern for 2 inches, and cast off. Edge the hood all round with a simple crochet edging in pink wool, and then ribbon round the neck.

These hoods are very useful in grey wool for poor people.

London: Printed by John Strangeways , Castle St. Leicester Sq.

Sold by HAIG AND VINCE,
209 OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W.

All patterns in The Lady’s Knitting-Book have been successfully worked in the above Wools.

[Transcriber’s Note—the following changes have been made to this text:

Page 14: 12 to 11—“as on page 11”.]