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Title: Dairying exemplified, or, The business of cheese-making

Author: J. Twamley

Release date: February 1, 2023 [eBook #69922]

Language: English

Original publication: United Kingdom: J. Sharp

Credits: Charlene Taylor, Krista Zaleski and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DAIRYING EXEMPLIFIED, OR, THE BUSINESS OF CHEESE-MAKING ***






Dairying Exemplified.




  Dairying Exemplified,

  OR

  The ~B U S I N E S S~ of

  CHEESE-MAKING:

  Laid down from approved Rules, collected
  from the most experienced Dairy-Women,
  of several ~C O U N T I E S~.

  Digested under various Heads.

  From a Series of Observations,
  during _Thirty Years_ Practice in the
  _CHEESE TRADE_.

  By _~J.  T W A M L E Y~_.

  The SECOND EDITION, Corrected & Improved.


  WARWICK:

  Printed for the AUTHOR by J. SHARP, and Sold by
  MESSRS. RIVINGTON’S _St. Pauls Church Yard_, and
  J. TAYLOR, No. 56 _Holborn_, LONDON, 1787.
  PRICE TWO SHILLINGS.


  _Enter’d at Stationer’s Hall._




PREFACE.


If a Dedication, or Introduction to the following Work should be
thought necessary, I most humbly, and justly address it to the
excellent DAIRY-WOMEN, of _Great Britain_; duly sensible, that from
them I received the first hints that led me to the performance,
and without whose assistance and encouragement, joined with my own
knowledge and experience, I should never have offer’d it to the Public.

The real design of this Work, is to assist those who are not fully
acquainted with the most proper methods, necessary to be used in the
management of a DAIRY; I have made it my endeavour to render every
part as plain and intelligent as possible, and am in hopes upon a due
Observation of the rules laid down many will find their account in it.
It is my sincere wish, that it may be a means of improving the quality,
as well as enlarging the quantity of CHEESE, through the Kingdom; and
become extensively useful to the community in general.

As the Publication of this Work has met with a very ready sale, & been
much approved of in general, and many who have carefully apply’d the
rules for Dairying therein laid down, have deriv’d great advantage from
it, which the Author has by many, been inform’d of; encourages him to
print a second Edition, and having omitted the other treatises upon
_Orchards_ and _Vegetation_, in order to bring the price more moderate,
hopes that, will cause it to be more read by DAIRY-WOMEN, who if they
pay a due attention to it, cannot help receiving benefit from the
advice it contains.




[Illustration]




Dairying Exemplified, _&c._


It has been the wonder of many People, who are interested in the
Article of Cheese, either as Makers or Dealers; that no Treatise or
Book of rules, or method of making Cheese, hath ever been attempted; or
the business of it examined, so as to direct those who are concerned
as Dairy-women, or have the chief management in Dairys, to become
proficients therein.

The great number of inferior Dairys there are, in comparison to the
few, that are excellent in their kind, or even what are called good
Dairys; every person who is much concerned in the Cheese Trade, is well
convinced of; and ’tis evident to a nice observer of the different,
yea, very different qualities of Cheese produc’d in different Dairys,
or even in the same Dairys, when either the Dairy-maid is changed, or
the usual method of Cheese-making, by the Mistress or manager of each
Dairy, is not strictly adhered to. A Remedy for this great deficiency
is looked upon as an affair of great moment, especially by those,
whose lot it is to be fixed in the Cheese Trade in a considerable
Dairy Country, where large quantities of Cheese, are annually bought;
and where, was Cheese-making in equal repute, or the real quality
of Cheese, equal in goodness to some neighbouring Counties, a much
larger quantity would certainly be made, and what would be a great
encouragement both to the makers and buyers of it, a better price would
be procured for the same Article, and a much readier Sale, than when of
an inferior quality.

Besides which, it is very clear that many People do not, for want of
a proper method, make near so much Cheese, from the same quantity of
Milk, as others do; or as even themselves might do, if a more proper
method was pursued. These considerations, having always been clearly
apparent, have from time to time, and as oft as an opportunity of
attaining any knowledge, in the business of making good Cheese hath
offered; led the Author of the following Treatise, to collect, weigh,
and investigate every particular circumstance leading to improve the
said art, or business; and hath enabled him from time to time, to
assist, and help many, by his advice and directions, to rectify and
amend many faults, and deficiencies, in the method, they followed;
and many have by such directions, greatly improved their Dairys.
And from constant experience and seeing the improvements, and the
effects produced from every different method practised or explained,
by such as he found most experienced, or best informed, for the space
of Thirty Years and upwards, he never fail’d to avail himself; this
hath constantly led him to scrutinize into the real cause, of every
impediment, or fault, in the method of making Cheese, from the first
step, or Milking the Cows, to the compleating or removing the Cheese
for Sale. And to point out a remedy to each complaint upon rational
principles, as far as they appear to him, and are confirmed by the
opinion of others, who have been in the way of making observations
of the same nature, and who give every encouragement to the Author
to make such improvements Public, for the general good. I am well
acquainted, how unthankful an office it is, to attempt to instruct or
inform Dairy-women, how to improve their method, or point out rules,
which are different from their own, or what hath always been practised
by their Mothers, to whom they are often very partial, as having been
esteemed the best Dairy-women of their time, and even when they have
imperceptably alter’d their method, by shortening the time in gathering
the Cheese, which is a term generally given for collecting the Curd at
the bottom of the Tub or Pan, after the runnet or rendless has done its
duty, or by putting a larger quantity of runnet into the Milk to hasten
the coming of the Cheese, which alteration, though often not observed
by the Dairy-maid, or Mistress, is of very material importance, and is
what I shall endeavour to explain, in as concise a manner as possible.
I doubt not, the same reflection will occur to the minds of some few
on reading my Book; as hath often done upon occasion, when I have in a
Dairy, met with any particular impediment in their Cheese, which the
Dairy-woman would fairly acknowledge she could not account for, and
hath tried every means she could think of to rectify without success;
saying, what does he know of Dairying, or how should a Man know any
thing of Cheese making?

But let these remember, that I have had frequent opportunities, of
consulting the best of Dairy-women, in many Counties, who I knew from
experience did know how to make good Cheese, and in order to have it in
my power to inform such as did not know how, I have taken great pains,
to inform myself, as many now living, in both situations can testify.

The principal faults that cause these difficulties to Dairy-women are,
Hove Cheese, Spongey, full of Eyes, Whey Springs, Jointed or Shook
Cheese, Split Cheese, Loose Cheese, or Cheese made of unsettled Curd,
Rank or strong Cheese, Flying out or Bulging at the Edges, Dry cracks
or Husky Coated Cheese, Blistering in the Coat, Blue-Pared, or Decayed
Cheese, Sweet or Funkey Cheese, Curdled or sour Milk Cheese, and
sometimes ill Smelling Cheese, from tainted Maw-skins, from distemper’d
Cattle, or some other cause, which by a strict observer may be
accounted for. Before a certain cure can be found out or applied, you
must be acquainted with the nature, and cause of the complaint, or if
by any accident, you hit upon a remedy, it may perhaps be a partial
one, or such as will not answer at all times, or in all Dairys, by
reason the complaint is from a certain fixt cause, and which cause will
at all times and in all places produce that effect; when perhaps, the
remedy apply’d may only be proper in some particular Dairys, owing to
Herbage, very rich Pasture or very Poor, to Clover ground, or ground
given to Noxious Weeds, Plants, or Trees, which the Cows eat of; each
of which if not known or considered will produce a different effect,
some of which effects may be similar in appearance to complaints in
other Dairys produced from different causes, the knowledge of which
will be of great use, to every Dairy-woman, or maker of Cheese to know,
as the operation of the work, or management and care of the Cheese when
made, must necessarily fall to their lot.

What relates to Pasturage; or the quality of Land for Grass, the
produce of the Land regarding Plants, Weeds, or Grass of different
kinds, falls more immediately under the eye or care of the Master, or
Farmer of the Land; and from observing from time to time, the state
of the Dairy, the Taste of the Cheese, so far as it may be affected
by any particular Herb, Weed, or Grass; the situation of the Cheese
in the Dairy-Chamber, how it is affected in different Seasons by
Heat, Cold, Damp or Dry Weather, to know what are the causes of many
general faults, or complaints in Cheese, such as Heaving, Splitting,
Jointing, Whey-Spring, Ill Formed, or Sweet Cheese, which often, when
any of these happen in a Dairy, are produced by one general cause, and
frequently go through the principal part of it, proceeding from the
same neglect, or mismanagement. These difficulties or deficiencies,
it is proper a Master should be acquainted with, as it often, I may
say, too often happens, the Mistress leaves the care of the Dairy to
Servants, especially the putting together the Milk, preparing the
Runnet and putting it into the Milk, the standing of the Milk till it
becomes Curd, and breaking or gathering it after it is come; which is
generally done by some common rule or method they have been used to,
the method used by a former Mistress perhaps, who might be esteem’d
a good Dairy-woman, and very likely undertook the management of the
Dairy herself; or at least so far as the essential part of the work
extended; paying a particular regard to the time of the operation
of the Runnet, in bringing the Cheese, or of gathering the Curd,
fixing, or setting it after it is come; each of which require a minute
exactness, and the principal error, or misfortune in Cheese making,
is owing to these operations being too hastily performed, not giving
time enough for the different effects to take place; for if due regard
is paid to making good Curd, you will very easily make good Cheese;
few people in any business make good Goods of bad Materials, tho’ many
of the most ignorant, when provided with good Materials, prepared for
that purpose, will finish them in a Workman-like and Masterly manner;
so will many a Dairy-maid, make very handsome Cheese and take care of
it, till it comes to be very good, and so as to give credit to the
seller, as well as the vender of it, that has no consistent idea how
the Runnet operates, or perhaps of the different states of the Curd,
in its various stages, or even when it is in a proper state to begin
the part of the work which usually falls to her share, of Breaking,
Vatting, and preparing it for putting in the Press, which former part
should be the care of the Mistress, or at least of some Person who
does understand it, to prepare the Curd for them. The business of a
Dairy, is of a considerable importance, and is in some Places, half,
or nearly the whole income, or produce of a Farm. The difference is so
great between a very good Dairy-woman, an inferior one, and a very bad
one, as would surprise, even a judicious observer, and the following
observations, which flow from what have happened in my own walks,
will be apt to strike conviction on the minds of many, who have never
applied their thoughts to the Theory of Dairying. The general way that
the art of Dairying has been carried on for Ages, has been progressive,
or traditional, being taught by Mother to Daughter, from common and
continual experience; naturally adopting from time to time, the methods
that appear’d best from such as have happened to come within their own
knowledge; without ever calling in the assistance of either Philosophy,
by which they might learn the different qualities, and effect of
materials they use, or knowledge, how to apply them in a Physical, or
Practical manner. And although the Author of this Treatise, is very
conscious of the deficiency of his own knowledge; yet has great hopes
that from the desire of making himself useful to community, with the
assistance of reason and common sense, he shall be able to render
some assistance, to those he wishes to serve. A kind providence hath
provided for all our wants; Nature, as Nature, is compleat in all its
parts; we, often in trying to improve it, distort, or throw it into
confusion; our Ideas being inadequate to the attempt. Where nature
points out, or leaves any open for improvement, in the use of any of
the common necessarys of Life, it is the duty of individuals to take
the hint, and endeavour to explain them for Public good. The present
System of Dairying, being in a very imperfect state, I am in hopes,
my endeavours to render service and improvement, will not be found
unnecessary.

A Cow, may I think justly be stiled, the most useful of all Animals,
in regard to Man; Milk is a support to our Infancy and greatly
contributes both to our comfort and support through Life, not only
supplying our present wants, by that salubrious aliment, but our
future wants, not only at home, but abroad; by the Cheese and Butter
produced from it, it supplies us, even with many luxuries in our
taste, is a great support to weakly constitutions by its Veal, as
well as a great support in the Article of Provisions, afforded when
alive; when Dead, is to us the grand stamina of our Food, Beef, being
the most nourishing and agreeable repast; it not only supports us at
home, but supplies our Fleets, our Armies, our Garrisons and Islands
all over the World; its Leather, so useful for Shoes, for Implements
of Husbandry, for Travelling, and for innumerable Conveniences; its
Hair for our Buildings and other purposes; its Tallow for our Light at
Home and Abroad; its Horns and Hoofs, and even its very Bones for our
Implements, and various Materials of Trade. Were all its excellencies
enumerated; they would be very extensive.

Milk, must be allowed one of its most useful productions; it is given
for our use in a pure, wholesome, and nutritive state; capable of
improvements, or alterations, of its nature, according to our different
wants. In the Article of Cheese, and Butter, a great deal depends on
the Art, Judgment, Care and Diligence of the Performer, and the good
or bad qualities of each, chiefly depend on the skill and industry of
the Dairy-woman. On a judicious observation you will find, that Milk
is generally found even at different Seasons, to be of a regular and
equal stamina, or quality, and in the same manner affected by different
fluxings; by Salts, Liquids, Spirits, &c. at all times; the business
of Cheese making, is a regular and constant proceeding, practised
perpetually, every Day, time immemorial; and it seems strange, that
when the ingredients you employ are so few, and their nature also so
exceeding regular, and certain, that there can be much difficulty,
in producing the Article of Cheese pure, and compleat; but daily
experience convinces us, that there is an amazing difference in the
goodness of Cheese, insomuch that you can scarce find two Dairys
that are exactly, or even very much alike; it does not occur to the
knowledge of every one what that difference is, but to a Person who
deals largely in it, and makes observations upon it, must plainly
appear; and though so few have ever attempted to scrutinize the nature
of Cheese, or particularly of Cheese making, in a manner that yields
conviction to its improvements; yet there is no reason, why that useful
branch of knowledge cannot, or may not, be clearly explained.

The business has been in the hands of the Women hitherto, except in
_Cheshire_, _Wilts_, some part of _Gloucestershire_, &c. where a large
quantity of Cheese is made, a Man is employ’d as an assistant, the
weight of a large _Cheshire_ Cheese, being too great to be wrought by
a Woman, and turning, rubbing, washing, and cleaning, is more than
one Man can easily perform; ’tis common in large Dairys, to meet
with Cheeses, Eighty, one Hundred, one Hundred and Twenty, or even
one Hundred and Forty pounds a Cheese, which requires considerable
strength to manage. In some part of _North-Wiltshire_, I am informed
there are Dairys that make Twenty-five Tons in a Year; and some few
more than that. A Gentleman told me, that being lately at _Bath_, he
was informed of a Person within less then Twenty Miles, who Milk’d
200 Cows: Which led his curiosity to take a ride to see it, being a
considerable Factor, who had frequent opportunity of buying Dairys
of Four, Five, or Six Tons each; but had never met with any Dairy of
that extent. On hearing the recital of it, led me to the same thought
as would naturally strike him, viz. what sort of a House or Premises
the Person must have to cure, spread or dispose of such a quantity
of Cheese, to get it ready for Sale? When he came to the Place, he
found the report was true, but then he milked these 200 Cows at three
different Houses, in number proportionable to the convenience or
situation of the Place. We often hear talk of _Cheshire_ Dairys of
100 Cows each, which the largeness of the Cheese in a great measure
accounts for. But what are called large Dairys in _Warwickshire_,
_Leicestershire_, _Staffordshire_, or _Derbyshire_, is from 20 to 40
Cows each; in these parts, from general observations I have made,
each Dairy may produce annually on an average three Hundred Weight
of Cheese from each Cow, taking the Dairys in general. I am inclined
to think more Dairys produce less than that quantity, than there are
that produce more; but this is observable, much the greater number
of Dairys, are on Tillable, or Arable Farms, where new Grass is
introduced, which is always allowed to make less Cheese than good
old Turf; and the proportion of up-land Farms, is much greater than
of low-land. I have weighed many times Four Hundred from a Cow, and
some few Dairys which have produced Five Hundred from each Cow; but
then in scrutinizing into the affair, I find it has been attended
with particular circumstances, such as being situate, in an excellent
Grass Country, where Meadows of dry Old Turf have been the Pasture,
where clear streams of running Water have gone through the Meadows,
affording always good Beverage for the Cows, as well as a cool retreat
for them in Hot Weather; by which means their Milk was kept in a
temperate state, while Cows on up-lands, perhaps scorched with heat,
and not having the nourishing stream to go to, or shade to protect
them from the Sun, cause their gadding, or running about to such a
degree, as prevented the increase of their Milk, in any proportion to
what the running stream produced; and throw’d the Cows into such a
heat and disorder, that their Milk would not yield near the quantity
of Curd, and caused many difficulties in making the Cheese, which the
cooler Dairys were not exposed to, (especially, when under the hand
of an unskilful Dairy-woman,) likewise, in these prolific Dairys, the
owner made a point of never keeping a Cow that was too old Milcht, or
Milk’d too long from the time of Calving, or when any Cow went off her
Milk either by any accident, or otherwise; then the Dairy-man always
replaced her with a new Milcht one, either drying the old Milcht one
for feeding, or disposing of her. That so the Dairy by that means was
kept in full vigour through the Grass Season. The number of these
Dairys is so very few and rare, they can only at most show the World
what may be done. I have been told by a _Wiltshire_ Factor, that the
Land in their principal Dairy Country, is so Rich and Good that it
is not very uncommon there for prime Dairys to yield five Hundred of
Cheese from a Cow; but then there is also every Advantage in their
Favour; such as (I believe no body who judgeth from the goodness
of their Cheese, but must allow) the best of Dairy-women, who have
been regularly bred to it from their Childhood, it generally being
almost the sole employ of the Farm, and those Dairy-women led on by
the greatest and most powerful emulation, of selling for the highest
Price. Their Cheese being generally sold, retail, at a penny, and often
two-pence per Pound, more than good Cheese in common. Their Cheese,
that is made in the prime of the Season, generally known in the country
by the name of _Marlborough_ Cheese, being much brought to Fairs by
_Marlborough_ Factors, or People residing not far from thence. Or in
_London_, by the name of _North Wiltshire_ Cheese, which always bears
the greatest Price of any Dairys, except those of _Gloucestershire_;
which, even the finest of _Barclay Hundred_, do scarce come up to: And
I believe by many judicious People, some of the _Wiltshire_ Dairys are
even allowed to excel. Likewise, in many very principal Dairys, they
have this great Advantage; where Gentlemen in some places, occupying
a large tract of Ground, or Lordship, either themselves, Stewards,
Bayliff, or some other Person for them, Stock the whole or chief Part
with Milking Cows, which they are very particular to get to come in, or
calve, by the Time Grass is in Vigour. Then these Dairy People agree
with them for the Milk of such a number of Cows, as they can manage at
a given Price per Week. The Gentleman, Bailiff, _&c._ engaging, that if
any Cow fails in her Milk before a given Time, that he will take her
away and replace her with a new Milcht one, by which means their Dairys
are always in full Power all Summer; and then they engage for the
Winter Dairy, at a Price proportioned to the state of the Cows, either
new, or old Milcht, by which means they are certainly enabled to make
a larger quantity of Cheese than any common Dairy, or Land of inferior
kind without these Advantages. And in many Dairys they make Cheese all
the Year, as the quantity of Winter Cheese, and Fodder Cheese, sent
to _London_ Markets clearly shews.--Much depends on the situation of
Dairy-ground, being nearer, or farther from the House, where the Cheese
is made, as Cows being driven any considerable distance to be Milked,
causeth the Milk to Heat in their Udders in Summer-time; Milking
them in the Field and carrying the Milk on Horse-back in Churns, or
Barrels to much Distance, I take to be still worse, as that perpetually
disturbs the Milk, inclining it to the nature of Churning Cream for
Butter, and the operation performed upon it, is quite of a different
nature, as it is for a different purpose or design, and if Milk is put
in a violent Motion by carrying, it makes it in some degree partake
of the nature of Churning, insomuch, that you often observe round the
Bung, Plug, or Stopple of the Churn, a Froth or Scum, work out by force
of Air, or Motion in carrying, that very nearly partakes of the nature
of Butter, which plainly shews that the Body of Milk, cannot be in a
proper State to make Cheese with, as Butter is produced by violent
Motion, and the making of Cheese from a state of Rest, being directly
opposite. I take it that oftentimes in very Hot Weather, the Milk in a
Cow’s Udder, much agitated by driving, or running about, is in a state
not very far different from that carried in a Churn, which frequently
makes the great difficulty in what is called bringing the Cheese or
fixing the Curd in the Tub, or Pan; I have often heard Dairy-women say
that ’tis sometimes very difficult to make it come at all, and instead
of one Hour, (the Time very commonly given by Dairy-women, in bringing
the Cheese,) that it will frequently not come in Three, Four, or Five
Hours; and then in such an imperfect state, as to be scarce capable of
being confined either in the Cheese-Vat or Press, and when released
from the Press, will heave, or puff up, by Splitting or Jointing,
according as the nature or state of the Curd happens to be. Whenever
People find their Cows in this situation which in Hot Summer Evenings
must often happen, especially, where Water is scarce, or in Grounds
where there is very little Shade; then it is, that making use of a
little cold Spring Water before earning, or rendling, is useful; as
that will make the Runnet take effect & the Milk coagulate much sooner.
It often happens, in some Dairys, that the Work is quite at a stand,
the Dairy-woman not knowing how to hasten the co-agulum, or coming
of the Cheese, thinks of putting more Runnet in, to forward it; but
the nature of Runnet being such, as will dissolve the Curd, in part
co-agulated, if more is put in; disturbs the whole, and prevents its
becoming Curd at all, or, in a very imperfect manner, remaining in the
Whey, in an undigested state that will neither turn to Curd or Cream,
and a principal part of the richest of the Milk is then cast away with
the Whey. Cold Water, with a little Salt, (as hereafter recommended)
will in a great measure prevent this difficulty. One great Point, or
Thing to be observed, in first setting off, or rendling the Milk, is
carefully to observe the state of the Milk, as to Heat or Cold; the
grand medium, or state it should be in when you put the Runnet into
it, is what may be properly understood, Milk-warm; if you find it to
be warmer than that, it is recommended, to put some fresh Spring Water
into it, in such quantity, as will reduce it to the Milk-warm state; a
Quart, Two, Three, Four or more according to the quantity of Milk to be
so cooled; many People may think Water will hurt the Milk or impoverish
the Cheese; experience shews it will not, but is a means of the Runnet
more immediately striking or operating with the Milk. I would recommend
the use of a Thermometer, to shew the degree of Heat Milk bears. I
doubt not one may be constructed on a very easy Plan, that will cost
a very little Money, and it will be very well worth while to be at a
small Charge, to regulate a fault, of putting Milk together too Hot,
which is of more ill consequence than People are aware of. The same use
holds good in putting Milk together for Butter; it is observed, that
Milk being set up too Hot, will not throw up Cream near so well, as
when in a temperate state, and causes it sooner to turn sour.[1]

As soon as the Milk is reduced to a proper warmth, and before you put
the Runnet to it, it is an exceeding good way to put a handful or two
of Salt into the Milk, or three or four handfuls if your quantity is
large (I recommend about two handfuls to ten or twelve Cow’s Milk;)
this will also cause the Runnet to Work quick, and giving a Saltness
to the whole, will be a means of preventing Sweet, or Funkey Cheese,
as it will make the Cheese all Salt alike, be a means to prevent Slip
Curd, or Slippery Curd, make the Curd sink in the Tub more readily,
and equally.[2] If your Milk is too Cold, let some Milk be warmed and
put into it, to bring it to the state of Milk-Warm, observing not to
warm a small quantity to make it boil, as boiling alters the nature of
Milk in some degree; scalding Heat is thought to set the Curd, making
it Tough, that it is judged best, to warm a tolerable good quantity of
Milk pretty warm, that it may give warmth to the whole in a sufficient
degree. Sometimes you will find in Cold Weather, your Milk in the time
of earning, get Chill; I have known in such a case, a Person take a Tea
Kettle of Hot Water and put into it, with success; let it be when the
Curd is nearly, or pretty well come, as then the Hot Water will give a
Toughness to the Curd, to relieve it from the slippery nature it had
acquired by being Chill, and that Chilness continuing to encrease, it
is with difficulty you can bring your Cheese into a regular or fixed
state. It is a very common way with many Dairy-women to allow the Milk
to stand an Hour, in earning, or after the Runnet is put in, before it
is gather’d, or sunk; many I fear content themselves with thinking it
sufficiently come in less time, _But here_ lies the greatest mischief
in Cheese-making; the Milk is very often disturbed before its proper
time, and sometimes when the whole is in a state of Slip-Curd, or
Slippery Curd, which is a state all Curd is in, before it becomes solid
Curd, or Curd, fit to make Cheese with. You are always to observe that
the state in which it is when you first stir or disturb it, in that
state the Curd will remain; it never improves as Curd, or becomes
better Curd after it is disturbed or removed from its state of rest.

You will generally observe, that when you sink the Curd in the Tub,
even when it is in a tolerable good state, as many imagine, there will
bits of Slip-Curd swim about in the Whey and not sink with the rest,
till the Whey is laden from it: That slip-Curd will not adhere to, or
join with the solid Curd, and though ever so well broke or separated,
yet in whatever state it is, when the Cheese is made, it all dissolves,
or melts; if a bit as big as a Nut happens together, it dissolves
into a Whey-Spring, runs out, and leaves a hole in the Cheese, which
always decays in that place; if a bit as big as a Pin’s-head happens,
it dissolves, and leaves an Eye in its place, and that is the cause of
Eyes in Cheese; if you cut the Cheese when young, you will find, that
there is a Moisture, or Wet, in every Place where the Eye is after it
is dried up, which Wet or Moisture is called Tears.[3]

When a large quantity of slip-Curd is in a Cheese, ’tis a long Time
before it becomes hard, appearing always loose within; which, when the
Cheese is dry, on cutting, it appears like a Honey-comb.

The thing that more Dairy-women err in, than any other, is gathering
or sinking the Cheese too soon. The rendling of Cheese, causeth a
very great Fermentation; there must be time given for the fixt Air in
Cheese, or Curd, set to work by the Runnet, to dissipate, expand, or
fly off. Runnet is a thing so powerful in its effect, as to have no
substitute yet found that can be used in its place; all Fermentations
remove or separate the fixed Air, from the different Bodies they are
connected with.

The effect of Runnet on Milk is very great, and in order to thoroughly
fix the Curd, it must have sufficient Time to work, concrete, or
congeal the Curd into a solid Mass by extirpating the Air from it; if
you remove or disturb the Milk before its full Time, yet the Runnet
having begun its operation, though you do not give it Time to work,
by reason of hurrying it forwards, yet when it is again at rest, such
Air as hath not been separated, by breaking, squeezing or pressing,
will extend itself, and the Air will find a vent, or expand itself into
a greater compass than it was before confined in; and whether it is
in the Press, or after it comes out of the Press, will find a way to
discharge itself; many times to that degree, when in the Press, as to
even burst the Cheese-cloth it is wrapt in, if it is so confined that
it cannot escape by it. If it does not get discharged otherways, then,
as soon as the Press is let up, it will shatter the Cheese within to a
surprizing degree, and immediately cause the Cheese to heave, or puff
up, even in that state, which so separates the Curd in the Cheese, as
it seldom settles again, unless taken quite in Time, or before the Curd
is connected in the Press. A good way to prevent this disorder, of what
is called Cheese heaving in the Press, from taking a bad effect, which
complaint generally happens when the Milk is put together too hot, and
the Whey that comes from it, is left white (which it ought never to
be, for then you may be sure all is not right); when the Cheese has
first been in the Press an Hour or more, let the Press up and if you
find the Cheese swell, or blister, take a large Needle, or fine Skewer,
of Wood or Iron, and pierce it in many places to let the Air out; a
Pin is not so well, as Brass taints the Cheese, and it will appear of
a tainted brassy colour ever after: If you find when the Cheese comes
again out of the Press, that it still swells, or blisters, apply the
Needle again, and it may perhaps settle again so as to make a useful
Cheese; it will never be a good one, but will remain in the state
called loose Cheese or shook Cheese. Thus you may discern somewhat of
the nature of slip-Curd; every Dairy-woman should take care to become
as well informed of the different properties, its nature, cause of its
Formation, and manner of operating as possible, in order thereby to
avoid the many difficulties proceeding from it, which are more numerous
than all others, in the whole system of Cheese-making put together,
and have been by them, the least considered and examined. In order
to avoid many difficulties, and render you complete Mistress of the
first part of the work, which is a very material Crisis, take care to
be well informed of the nature of Maw-skin or Runnet-skin; it is very
proper every Dairy-woman should know how to prepare them for use, which
is very easily acquired; to know in what manner or to what degree it
should be salted, and how, properly dried, and take particular care
that you have the Maw fresh, not in a tainted or putrid state, you
may happen to have such a misfortune as to have it damaged either by
neglect, as to Time of preparing it, great heat of Weather, which
sometimes hurts our best and freshest Meat in a surprizing degree,
notwithstanding every care or caution taken to prevent it, or by the
Skin having any way taken Wet, or being Fly-blown; to many of which
mishaps the most careful Person, is sometimes exposed; any of which
quite alter the nature of it; being of a more particular construction
than any other thing, which must appear plain, when ’tis considered,
that you cannot substitute or apply any one Thing, in the Article of
making Cheese to a proper effect, or that will answer your purpose of
extracting Curd from Milk in order to make Cheese with, but Maw-skin;
and you will find that when the Skin is damaged or tainted, it looses
its fermenting quality considerably; that it will either not take
effect at all, or in a very partial and slow degree, and you will often
find Cheese made from tainted Maw-skin appear of a putrid, unsettled,
ill-tasted, discoloured nature, being affected in a different manner,
according to the degree of Putrifaction the Maw-skin has received.
Sometimes I have perceived the Cheese of a dusky black colour, not
fixt in its Texture, or become solid and close; sometimes, in Taste
resembling the flavour of tainted Beef or Mutton, when it comes to
your Table; sometimes it has the smell of rotten or addled Eggs,
sometimes of the most insipid or tasteless nature, which on enquiring
into the cause, could never be explained to me by the Maker. Sometimes
an ingenious, well-disposed Person, who wished for Improvement, or to
become acquainted with the nature or consequence of such complaint,
would hint to me, her fear was, the Maw-skin was damaged; tho’ I have
had some, who instead of being open to conviction, or that would pay
any regard either to my Opinion or Advice, would tell me that could
not be cause, for they always prepared their own Maw-skins, and no
one could be more careful to cure them properly, which was the reason
they always avoided buying Skins as much as possible, for fear of
that misfortune. All this care and precaution I doubt not was just,
as from the great care many People take of their Dairy in every other
respect, would be particularly cautious about their Maw-skins; but let
themselves judge, whether some of the afore recited causes, might not
happen to their best endeavours. When I have come to a place where the
Dairy-woman has informed me she has been deceived in her Maw-skins,
being then I thought on sure ground, or certainty of the cause, I
have been very careful to become acquainted with the real nature of
the ill effects produced in consequence thereof, and have always
found some of the evils before-mentioned, and could often judge from
the state I found the Cheese in, in what manner, or to what degree
it was affected thereby, and even so as often to convince the Maker
of it, that my Opinion was right. If at any Time this misfortune is
apparent to you, that some neglect, or mishap has taken place in curing
your Maw-skins, you will easily guess from which of the above causes
they spring; and perhaps in a course of Time, you may become well
convinced, that every one of these mischances do sometimes happen, and
as you must certainly be a better, or more competent judge of the real
nature of the complaints, (than any other Person can be from common
observation,) you will most likely, find other causes of damage, or
misfortune that happens in the process, more than I have enumerated;
and if any material one, it would be exceeding useful to have it made
Public, for the benefit of Society, or to warn those of the damage,
whose Business it is to supply the Market with Skins for Sale. When
you perceive any of your Skins have miscarried, that they are either
tainted, or otherways damaged, take particular notice how they appear;
in what respect they differ from perfect Skins, knowing, that the
like causes produce similar effects, and then if you are obliged to
buy Skins, you will be enabled to avoid buying such as have the faults
you are acquainted with. I have often been led, when in a Shop where
Maw-skins were on Sale, to examine them somewhat minutely, and could
perceive in some of them much difference; I have seen in the same
Skin sometimes, the appearance of very different qualities; I have
observed discoloured Spots on holding it up to the Light; I have seen
one part of a Skin of a well-coloured sound nature, another part that
had somewhat the look of rough Parchment, or hard Whit-leather; on
smelling, it has not appeared of the same nature, or relish, with the
rest; I have also observed Skins that have appeared quite tainted, and
even in a decaying state, and have seen Rendless after being made,
appear of a dusky blackish colour. A Dairy-woman should be acquainted
with these complaints, in order to avoid the difficulty that inevitably
accrues for want of that knowledge, and should frequently taste the
Runnet when made, that she may find out in Time if there is any thing
disagreeable attends it; for there is no making good Cheese with bad
Runnet.

The Maw-skin, or bag of the Abomasus, is the Maw or Stomach of Calves,
that have fed on nothing but Milk, and are killed before the digestion
is perfected, it contains an Acid Juice called Runnet, Rennet, or
Earning, with which Milk is co-agulated, or rendered into Curd for
making Cheese; in the Maw the Chyle is formed, that causes this
co-agulum; but it greatly looses this effect, when Calves have fed
on Vegetable Food; the Maw of House-Lamb, I am informed will answer
the same purpose, but not of Grass Lamb. I have heard of a person who
Salted the Curd, or Crudity that was found in the Maw at the Time
the Calf was killed, prepared as the Maw-skin is, with good effect,
only used in a larger quantity. This may easily be tried by way of
experiment; I never heard of but one Person who used it, and she is
now dead; that prevented my enquiry about it. Since the above was
publish’d I am informed, that in the last Age, the principal part of
the Cheese was made from the Curd, of the Maw prepared with Salt, till
it was found the Skin was of a more clean and wholesome nature. It is
observable as an old Maxim, that although Runnet readily co-agulates
Milk, yet if put in when already co-agulated, it dissolves it.

There are many ways of making, or preparing Maw-skins; the best and
most approved I ever met with is, as soon as your Maw is got cold, when
taken from the Calf (for ’tis known that salting Meat hot, in sultry
Weather, will make it taint,) let it be a little swilled in Water; some
People say ’tis better not to be clean’d at all, and the effect will
be greater, it coming nearer to real nature, and the reason given,
is this, ’tis the inside of the Maw that has the effect in Runnet,
and the chyle proceeding from it, the outside being little otherwise
than any other Entrail. Rub the Maw well with Salt, then fill it, and
afterwards cover it with Salt; some cut them open and spread them in
Salt, one over another in layers, and let them continue in the Brine
they produce, sometimes stirring, or turning them, for four, six, or
nine Months, as they can spare them, then open them to dry, being
stretched out with sticks or splints, that they may dry regularly;
when they are dry they may be used; though, ’tis reckon’d best to be a
Year Old before used, keeping them one Year under another. Do not let
them in drying, be too near a Fire; if heated too much, renders them
liable to reeze, (as Bacon will, when melted by heat,) and hurts their
quality, giving them a rancid taste; many People think, the Brine they
are prepared in, very useful in making your Runnet, putting it amongst
it as other Brine, with smaller proportion of Runnet. People differ in
their way of preparing Runnet or Rendless. Many will make it with Whey;
some will put in with the Whey, the Brine drippings that come from the
Cheese when in the Press. Both these I quite disapprove; Whey, having
already undergone purgation, fermentation, or separation of the Curd
from Milk, is more likely to become viscid, or gummy, acrid, or sharp,
or liable to putrifaction than a more pure element. Brine drippings
are of a gross foul nature, and may be deem’d, (if the expression
may be allowed) even the very excrements of Cheese-making, and what
ought never to be put in, in order to bring the Cheese, causing a rank
and foul smell as well as taste, I take it to be the worst of all
disagreeables.

The way most approved by good Dairy-women, or such as have fallen
within my knowledge is this; take pure Spring Water, in quantity
proportion’d to the Runnet you intend to make; it is thought best by
some, about two Skins to a Gallon of Water; boil the Water, which makes
it softer or more pure, make it with Salt into Brine that will swim an
Egg, then let it stand till the heat is gone off, to about the heat of
Blood warm, then put your Maw-skin in, either cut in pieces or whole:
the former I should imagine best or most convenient; letting it steep
for twenty-four Hours, or two Meals, (so called in Dairying) and it
is fit for use, putting such a quantity into your Milk as you judge
necessary, for rendling your quantity of Milk into Curd; observing that
too much Runnet makes the Cheese strong and liable to heave, and is
what many People call, tastes of the Bull, or Bull Cheese (especially
when Brine drippings are put in.) Too little Runnet makes it very
mild, and must have more time to stand, before it is broke, or sunk:
The judgment required, in the quantity of Runnet, to be used must be
regulated by your own prudence, increasing or lessening it as you find
it necessary; ’tis often reckon’d, about a Tea-cup full, to ten Cows
Milk. If you make a quantity of Runnet together to keep for use, let
the same method be used, increasing the quantity of each material to
what you want, putting it in jars or bottles, till you want it.

I have frequently heard Dairy-women mention putting in rose leaves and
spices of different kind into the Rennet at the Time of preparing it,
in order to give it a relish, and make the Cheese fine flavor’d.

_Mr. Hazard_, in his Essay to the _Bath_ Society gives a receipt for
making Rennet after this manner; when the Maw-skin is well prepared and
fit for the purpose, three pints or two quarts of soft Water (clean and
sweet) should be mix’d with Salt, wherein should be put sweet briar,
rose leaves and flowers, cinamon, mace, cloves, and in short almost
every sort of spice and aromatic that can be procured, and if these are
put into two quarts of Water they must boil gently till the liquor is
reduced to three pints, and care should be taken that this liquor is
not smoaked; it should be strained clear from the spices &c. and when
found to be not warmer than Milk from the Cow, it should be poured
upon the Vell or Maw, a lemon may then be sliced into it, when it may
remain, a day or two, after which, it should be strain’d again and put
in a bottle, where if well corked, it will keep good for twelve months
or more, it will smell like a perfume, and a small quantity of it
will turn the Milk and give the Cheese a pleasing flavour--he farther
adds--after this, if the Vell or Maw, be salted and dried for a week or
two near the Fire, it will do for the purpose again almost as well as
before.

A very material circumstance to be attended to in Cheese-making, is the
time allow’d for the Cheese coming, or from the time allow’d for the
Runnet to take effect, or the time when the Milk is at rest, called
earning time.[4] Which should on no account be less than an hour and
half; all that is stirred, gather’d, or sunk, in less time is liable
to danger. It may happen, and often does, that it will come sooner,
especially when the method I have recommended of putting Salt in the
Milk is used, and where care is taken to have the Milk of a proper
warmth, as in these cases the Curd co-agulates or collects sooner on
that account; I believe it will be found that the additional time given
will never be of any bad consequence, as the Curd then gets firm, and
on sinking, becomes more solid, and is easier made into Cheese, in less
time, and with much less trouble, than when stirred or broke sooner.
What is called sunk Cheese is always allowed to be the fattest; when
Curd is fully set, or fixed of a solid nature, by having time enough,
it will incline to sink to the bottom of the Tub, by the assistance of
the Hand to gently Press it down, gather, or collect it, and will soon
become of a solid nature; most People break the Curd, by stirring it
round several times with the Bowl, in order that it may be collected
together. Sinking, is performed by getting it down, or sinking with the
Hand, without breaking.

In order to prevent a difficulty in getting the Whey to separate easily
when sinking the Curd, you may prepare a long Cheese Knife made with
a Lath, one edge being sharpened to cut the Curd a cross from top to
bottom, in the Tub, three or four different times crossing the lines,
checkerwise, by which means the Whey rises through the vacancies made
by the Knife, and the Curd sinks with much more ease. I have also known
a sieve used to facilitate or hasten the Curd sinking, with success, as
it gives an opportunity to lade off the Whey clear from Curd, gets the
Curd down much easier and saves time.

When all the Curd is got firm at the bottom of the Tub, by pressure
of the hand, let all the Whey be taken from it; then let it stand
one quarter of an Hour for the Curd to settle, drain, and get solid,
before you break it into the Vat; if any bits of slip-Curd happen to
be swimming in the Whey, that does not sink with the rest, it had
better be put away with the Whey, than put to the Cheese, as it will
not cement or join with the solid Curd, and all slip-Curd, as before
observed, dissolves or melts, so that it is a detriment to Cheese when
ever put in; many People, as soon as the Whey is removed, immediately
break the Curd small as possible, and then put it into the Cheese Vat,
for finishing. I would always recommend that it rest one quarter of an
Hour, before ’tis broke, or vatted; the Cheese would be much better for
it, as the Air would more easily separate, and prevent its puffing up
under your hand, when squeezing in the Vat, and also prevent the Fat
squeezing out, as it often does through your Fingers; which being so
much broke, occasions, and certainly it must make your Cheese, both
leaner and lighter. I have consulted many good Dairy-women, on the
Article of breaking Cheese, and find, ’tis the most general method to
break the Curd as small as possible, when put into the Vat; but what
makes that more absolutely necessary, is, there being slip-Curd amongst
it, and that never appears to embody, or join with the rest, unless
broke and thoroughly mixed; and even then I am fully convinced is of no
use for the reason above given; although I have laid it down as a rule,
never to stir or gather the Cheese in less than an Hour and half, many
of the best Dairy-women I have ever consulted, generally let it stand
two Hours; by which time the Curd is got to be of so firm a nature, as
to render the breaking of it at all absolutely needless, it being got
so solid, they only cut it in slices, put it into the Vat and work it
well into it, by squeezing thoroughly to make it firm and close, then
put it into the Press, and no more is needful. The finest, fattest and
best Cheese I have seen, I have been informed was made this way; there
is sure to be no sweet Cheese, horny-coated, or jointed Cheese made
in this manner; sometimes I have observed Cheese that has been sunk,
tho’ very fat and well tasted, that would become very hard and cut
chiselly, which I take to be owing to the Curd getting very cold and
set hard before Vatted, to prevent its doing so, it may be necessary
to break the Curd and not give it quite so much time in earning; as
many People prefer Cheese that is not so very solid, or that has a
mellow softness, which breaking will give it; although it is reckon’d
the best quality to cut solid, and flakey; remembering that giving
it more time in earning makes it more solid, and shortening the time
makes it less so. Many Dairy-women are much puzzled concerning the
cause of sweet Cheese, forming different ideas about it; I am fully
convinced it is wholly caused by stirring or breaking it too soon in
the Tub, by which means the Runnet has never taken full effect, nor
is any slip-Curd ever fit to make Cheese with, in what ever state it
may appear, unless in soft Cheese, or slip-coat Cheese; for when Curd
is quite in a slippery state, especially if very warm, salt will have
very little effect on it, which is the cause it is so apt to putrify
and dissolve, and a very principal cause why Cheese becomes sweet, is,
its not having taken salt, as you may generally perceive Cheese that
is much jointed or blue-pared has scarce any relish or saltness in it.
When the Whey is of a white colour the Curd is not fully settled, and
if it is so to any great degree, the Cheese is sure to be sweet, and
in that case you always cast away great part of what should be Cheese,
for the Whey thus put away would neither turn to Butter nor Cheese,
though of a considerable substance, remaining of an undigested nature:
If you pursue the method I have laid down, you will always find the
Whey quite green, which is the colour it ought to be of; and let more
or less be the time you adopt to put your Cheese together, if the
Whey is not green, depend upon it your Cheese is not properly come,
or your Maw-skin is not good, or quantity of Runnet not sufficient.
It is difficult to ascertain what quantity of Runnet is required to
bring a Cheese in the most proper manner, as the quality of the Skin
is so various, and strength of Runnet, as well as quality of Milk so
different; People are much divided in opinion, whether ’tis the best
way to make your Runnet fresh every Day, or to prepare a quantity
together, according to the quantity you want and bottle it up for use;
in large Dairy’s it must be best to make a quantity together, as you
certainly must be a better judge of the quality, or what quantity is
necessary, than when the making is left to chance, as by that means you
may regulate the quality and taste of your Cheese better, and have more
dependance on the time of its coming.

The best Dairy-women I have known, in general, recommend the latter
method.

The cause of jointing or wind-shook Cheese, is from a small quantity
of slip-Curd being much broke, so as not sufficient, to form Eyes in
the Cheese; but which is sufficient when dissolved through the whole
mass, to leave a vacancy, which generally unites in a perpendicular
direction, and forming cracks or joints within the Cheese, and sinking
joints nearly like to cracks on the outside. If it happens to any
considerable degree, it causes the Cheese to have very little taste,
generally turns blue-pared whilst under a year old, and often rotten
Cheese when older; most dry rotten Cheese is produced from this effect,
unless when bruises, or cracks are the cause. Wet, or moist rotten is
generally produced by a larger quantity of slip-Curd; having never
united in a solid state, nor taken any salt, becomes very putrid and
rots, and as the Cheese dissolves, is often very wet or moist. I have
several times seen Cheese that has appeared sound till cut, that
afterwards had not a pound of sound Cheese in a whole one. Spungy
Cheese is such as partakes of the elastic or springing quality of a
Spunge, I take it to be produced from Curd, which has nearly undergone
every proper fermentation to make the Curd unite, but leaves it in
a very tough state, caused by the over heat of the Milk when put
together. Rank, or strong Cheese is generally caused by too great a
quantity of Runnet, and that Runnet made too strong to operate in the
time given, or from Runnet being made with foul materials; hove, or
heaved Cheese is caused by different means; when the quantity of Air in
Cheese increases after the Cheese has been some time made, I suppose
such Air to be rarified by a greater heat than the Cheese has before
been in, the coat being got hard and the pores much closed, the Air
expands within, and causes the Cheese to rise or swell, in a round
form; this is very visible when you put a taster into the Cheese or a
pin to let out the Air, it rusheth forth with a strong wind, of a rank
disagreeable smell, caused by the Air being discharged from putrid or
undigested Curd. Sometimes, if Cheese is laid cool when first made,
or coming from the Press, is dried outwardly by means of a harsh cool
Air, when at the same time the inside of the Cheese remains in a moist
state, though the coat is hard and dry; when that Cheese is exposed to
heat, either by lying near a hot Wall, or near Tiles in hot Weather,
or by the immediate heat of the Sun, it will be drawn up, round, in
the same manner, and by the same cause that a board is made round or
coffer’d up, by the heat of the Sun; rank Cheese very often heaves,
from the cause before given that makes it rank: ’Tis very common for
Dairy-women, to ask, what will cure hove, or heav’d Cheese? I am fully
of opinion there is no cure for it after it is affected with heaving,
but to let the Air out of it, that it may close and settle again.
There has for many Years, been an ingredient sold in Shops, called
Cheese-powder, being made of nitre or salt petre, and bole armoniac
proportion’d thus, to one pound of salt petre, put half an ounce of
bole armoniac, both powder’d very fine, and well mixt together, rub
about one quarter of an ounce upon a Cheese, when put a second and
third time into the Press, about half on each side the Cheese at two
different meals, on the upper side, before you rub the salt on, that it
may penetrate the Cheese with it; these are very binding ingredients
and are sometimes found to be very serviceable, but nitre is apt to
give the Cheese an acetous or sourish taste, and if too much is put in,
and the Cheese is expos’d to great heat, will cause a fermentation,
that will encrease the quantity of Air in the Cheese & cause it to
swell more than it would if none had been put in. I have known many
things recommended as a cure, but could never find that any thing was
serviceable except the above, and piercing, or discharging the Air,
with a needle, wire, or skewer. The most powerful preventative to the
heaving of Cheese, is, to avoid making the Runnet too strong, or, not
to put too much into the Milk, to take care that your Runnet is not
foul, nor made either with Whey or Brine drippings, or tainted Skins,
to be certain that your Curd is fully come, not stirring it till it has
had time for the fermentation fully to take effect, to let it drain a
little before it is broke or vatted, and to keep the Cheese warm, till
it is got stiff, or had a sweat, and you will, by a careful attention
to these particulars, very seldom have any hove Cheese.

Cheese is very apt to split, or divide in the middle, by being salted
within, especially, when people spread salt across the middle of the
Cheese when the vat is about half filled, which Curd tho’ in a small
degree separated by salt, never closes, or joins, and is much easier
coffer’d up or drawn round than other Cheese; especially, thin Cheese
made in what we call _Glocester_ vats being round or rising in the
bottom, and the slider or Cheese-board that is laid over it, made
convex also, in order to make the Cheese thinned in the middle, that
it may dry quick, for early sale. Then, if salted within and being
laid soft on the shelf to dry, as it bears only on the edge all round,
it is almost sure to split; and it is often seen, scarce a Cheese in
some Dairys of this form but what do split; salting a little in the
Milk is greatly preferable, for these Dairys in particular; for as
salt dissolves, it keeps the inside of the Cheese moist or soft for
sometime, if salted in the Curd, which is what I would never recommend
to be done in any Dairy, especially across the middle as is often
done. I have sometimes known Cheese thus salted when there has been
much slip-Curd in it, and that, and the salt both dissolving together,
and the Cheese split, the vacancy shall contain a quantity of Water,
which if ironed when Young, gushes out, or else cracks the Cheese
when moved, and the Water runs out to a considerable degree, the same
thing must have been observed by other Factors, in some Dairys where
salting in the middle is used. Cheese is apt to bulge, fly-out, or
get round edged, when it is either kept soft, by being moist within,
or having too much slip-Curd or unsettled Curd, or elastic Air within
it. Dry cracks, or wind cracks are generally produced, by keeping Curd
from one meal to another which gets quite cold and fixed, and being
put together with Curd that is made of too hot Milk, these two, never
properly adhere, or join, and cause the coat to be harsh, and often
fly, or crack. Curdly or wrinkle-coated Cheese is caused by sour Milk,
chiefly when Cheese is made from two meals, as ’tis very common in hot
Weather for Milk to turn, or get sour in one night’s time, especially
if Milk is hot when set up, having been much heated in the Cow’s Udder,
and very probably much agitated and disturbed by Cows running about,
or being heated to a violent degree, or the Milk having been carried
in Churns or Barrels on Horse-back any distance; Cheese made of cold
Milk, especially if inclined to be sour, is apt to cut chiselly, or
that breaks or flies before the knife. Sunk coated Cheese is caused
by being made too cold, as you will often find Cheese that is made in
Winter or late in Autumn, will be, unless laid in a warm Room after it
is made. Two-meal Cheese is made with two meals, or night and mornings
Milk, which if put together pure, not having the Cream taken off, will
make nearly as good Cheese as new Milk, and much better if it must be
finished in one Hour, or less, or when new Milk Cheese is made with
Milk that is too hot.

What is generally known by the name of two-meal Cheese, is in
_Gloucestershire_ called second Cheese, being made from one meal new
Milk and one of old, or skimmed Milk, having the Cream taken away.
Skimmed Cheese, or Flet-Milk Cheese, is made from all skimmed Milk,
the Cream having been taken off the whole to make Butter, or for other
purposes: This sort of Cheese is much made in the County of _Suffolk_,
or at least goes by the name of _Suffolk_ Cheese, when at market, or
in _London_, where the principal part of it is disposed of; it being
much used on ship-board, not being so much affected by the heat of the
ship as richer Cheese, or so subject to decay in long Voyages, and
being bought at a low price, makes it much called for in that way.
There is but little art required in making this Cheese, if care is
taken of it, but yet there is great difference in the quality of it,
which I am fully convinced is principally caused by want of care; it is
not exposed to so many difficulties as richer Cheese, but Dairy-women
must remember, slip-curd has the same effect, in a lesser degree in
Skim Cheese as in new Milk; though the Milk being much weaker is not
in so much danger. An Hour, or an Hour and a Quarter is time enough to
give it in rendling; keep the Cheese warm when young, and cool after.
I know some Dairy-women do not give it three quarters of an Hour in
coming, and thereby find more difficulty than need be; paying little
regard to it, as they do not use it themselves, nor will it fetch much
money, yet I know some careful Dairy-women who make Skim cheese that
would deceive a common observer, in appearance, being made in the same
form as new Milk Cheese, well coloured, made clean, and better coated,
than many ordinary Dairys of new Milk Cheese.

I have paid in a Dairy of thirty Cows upwards of sixty Pounds in a Year
for skim Cheese, an object not unworthy a Dairy-man’s notice, some
people are of Opinion, the most Money to be made of the skim Milk of a
Dairy, is to feed Sows and Pigs with it, but this I must leave to those
concerned in the business. Some Dairy-women in order to enrich their
new Milk Cheeses will put the Whey Cream, into their Milk, which if
quite fresh, not older than one or two Meals, will improve it. To make
fine Cream Cheese, one meal of Cream extraordinary should be added to
the new Milk; this will make exceeding rich Cheese, but requires great
care, and should not be gathered or sunk in less than two Hours. I
apprehend two Hours and a half or three Hours will be found much better
in general.

The way recommended to make soft Cheese, or slip-coat Cheese, is,
take six quarts of new Milk hot from the Cow; the stroakings or
last Milkings are the best, being the richest Milk; put into it two
spoonfuls of Runnet, let it stand three quarters of an hour, or
till it is hard coming, or become full Curd; lay it into the Vat
with a spoon, not breaking it at all, laying upon it a trencher, or
flat-board; press it with a four pound weight, or if you find it gets
too hard, then press it with a lighter weight, turning it with a
dry cloth once an hour, and when got stiff, shift it every day upon
fresh grass or rushes; it will be fit to cut in ten or fourteen days,
or sooner, if the Weather be warm; many people use Baskets, made on
purpose, instead of Vats to make it in, this is esteemed in private
Families; where it is carried to market, Vats must be best, unless
carried in the Baskets.

To make brick-bat Cheese; in _September_, take two gallons of new
Milk, and a quart of good Cream; warm the Cream, put in two or three
spoonfuls of Runnet, when it is well come, break it a little, then put
it into a wooden mould in the shape of a brick, press it a little, then
dry it; it is best to be half a Year old before it is used, or more,
if you like it older; two hours is as little as it ought to be in
earning, or to stand before it is broke after the Runnet is put in, or
longer if the Whey is not inclined to be green. I am informed _Stilton_
Cheese is made in this way.

Cream Cheese is generally made in _Autumn_, the Milk being richer and
fatter in _August_ and _September_; by which means it has not the
warm Season to ripen it, and it is generally made thick, in order to
preserve it’s mellowness. Rich Cheese will not dry so fast as lean, nor
thick Cheese so soon as thin; in course it must get less hard in the
Season than common thin Cheese, by which means it is more exposed to
frost and chilling cold. I have often found that people who make Cream
Cheeses, find more casualty attend them, than in leaner, hard Cheeses,
owing to chillness, or being froze before they get hard; for when frost
gets much into Cheese, it destroys every good quality, and makes it
putrify, and become either insipid or ill tasted; Cream Cheese should
always be kept in a warm situation, and be particularly guarded from
frost, and till it has sweat well, or you will lose the advantage of
its richness. The contrary method is to be used with skim Cheese, as in
that, there is very little fat to sweat out, and chill Cheese is better
than harsh-meated, horney-coated Cheese; let it have what warmth you
can for about a fortnight after making, and then keep it cool.

In making slip-coat or soft Cheese, remember it is of quite a contrary
nature to hard Cheese; and instead of getting stiff, its best quality
is to have it run, or dissolve into a creamy substance; for which
reason it must be made with Slip-Curd, which alone will cause it so to
do; good Curd will always get harder by drying, but Slip-Curd will not
even become solid, or continue a Substance; this clearly demonstrates
my Sentiments on Slip-Curd as before related. It has generally been
reckoned that the Milk required to make one Pound of Butter will make
two Pounds of Cheese, and a larger quantity where Land is poor, the
Milk being weak will not afford so much Cream.

As colouring of Cheese is now become almost an universal practice, it
is highly necessary to pay a due regard thereto; Cheese, in its native
state, that is well Manufactured, being put together in proper time,
the Milk of proper warmth, well cleaned when young, and kept warm,
till being regularly Dry, will naturally be of a yellow cast, and when
a Year old will coat of a reddish or brown-red colour; the richer the
Cheese, the more ’tis inclined to appear in this manner, and you seldom
meet with Cheese of this native cast but what is exceeding good, being
fat, well-tasted, cuts flaky, is stout, or full-tasted, high-flavour’d
Cheese; and it is found that every country will produce some such
Cheese, when in the hands of skilful Dairy-folks, though it has yet
appeared in a small degree; you will find such Cheese among the fine
Dairys in _Cheshire_, _Double-Gloucester_, or _Thick-Gloucester_, being
made double the Thickness of common Cheese, _North-Wilts_, in some
few Dairys, in _Derby_, _Stafford_, _Leicester_, and _Warwickshires_,
but there being so small a proportion of this best Cheese, and the
demand for it being larger than the supply, a substitute is thought
necessary, to make good Cheese look as much like fine Cheese as
possible, from which cause the art of colouring originates, and much
increases.

It is remarked by dealers in Cheese as well as others, that a much
greater part of the People that eat Cheese, have little Idea how it
is produced; they, finding the best Cheese of the fullest, or yellow
colour, naturally conclude, or are led to think, that Cheese of a pale
colour, must be made with inferior (or skimmed) Milk. So much this Idea
prevails, that it is well known, in _London_, a Cheese-monger will more
readily sell good Cheese of a full colour than fine Cheese of a pale or
inferior colour; _London_ being the principal Market, or place where
the greatest quantity of the best Cheese is sold. Colouring formerly
used to be performed by various Drugs, as _Turmerick_, _Sanders_,
_&c._ by _Marigolds_, _Hawthorn-buds_, and the like. The principal
ingredients now used is _Annatto_, and in its best kind, is much the
best colouring that ever was found out. _Annatto_ is of two sorts,
known by the name of _Spanish-Annatto_ and _Flag-Annatto_, the former
is much the best for Cheese-colouring; being of a hard substance,
and proper in kind, or texture, dispensing its colour in a regular
and free manner, without being subject to much waste or decay. The
_Flag-Annatto_ is brought over in a moist state, and wrapped in large
broad _Flags_, which keeps it in some degree from waste; it is brought
in that state chiefly for the Dyers use, and is a principal Article in
Dying Orange-colour; if this sort is used in colouring Cheese before
it gets hard, it is apt to appear in the Milk of an oily nature which
prevents the colour taking effect in a regular manner, and is some
detriment to the coming of Cheese; if it is kept till quite dry and
hard, which in course of time it will be, perhaps in six, nine, or
twelve Months, it is then very little inferior to _Spanish_. Of this
last ingredient, mixt with others, the Druggists and Blue makers in
_London_, make large quantities of what they call Cheese-colouring,
often giving it the name of _Spanish-Annatto_, and there is some of
it made, to very much resemble it, both in nature, and colour. But
true _Spanish-Annatto_ is much preferable; I have known an ounce of
it colour ten hundred weight of Cheese, of a much better colour than
any other ingredient would that I ever knew; I have known it formerly
sold in shops at three shillings, and four shillings _per_ ounce; the
great price it then brought at market, and getting very much into use,
induced the _American_ planters, at one time, to send a large quantity,
which so much over-stocked the market, and lowered the price, that it
was not worth their while to make it; and for that reason, very little
of the genuine sort has come to _England_ since; but the same materials
have come in flags, which come at a much lower price, though nearly as
dear in the end, being so much heavier, and the colour not going so far
as the _Spanish_, nor is the colour so exquisite or blooming as the
_Spanish_; that, giving the Cheese the bloom of native yellow Butter,
when made in the prime season of Spring. An ill opinion having been
formed of coloured Cheese, and by many said, that it is unwholesome;
in order to remove that prejudice, I will endeavour to describe its
nature. It is made from the seed of a plant, of the flowering kind,
much like to a balsam, the seed is so much like it, as scarce to be
distinguished from it; I have sowed it, but without effect, our climate
being too cold. I was sometime since enquiring of a _Jamaica_ Planter,
how the _Annatto_ was prepared for use; who said when the Seed was ripe
it was covered with a slimy or unctuous skin like as Linseed is, which
being steeped a little while in water, became loose from the Seed and
was rubbed off with a cloth or flannel, which being afterwards washed
with water, was sunk to the bottom; on pouring the water off, the
_Annatto_ was produced in a wet pulp, or paste, which being wrapped in
flags, was ready for Dyers use.

In the _Spanish Islands_, they dry it and make it up in balls for use,
and ’tis a principal ingredient in lacquering brass, _&c._ as well
as colouring Cheese. I am well convinced that in its pure state, it
is of a very rich fattening nature, and improves Cheese to a great
degree, in quality, as well as colour; as I never met with any Cheese
so exquisite, that had not been coloured with it, as I have of that
which hath. The way it is used in colouring Cheese, is, take a piece
of _Spanish-Annatto_, which appears in form of a stone, then take a
bowl of Milk, dip the _Annatto_ a little into it, then take a pebble,
or hard Rag-stone, on which rub the _Wet-Annatto_, washing off the
_Annatto_ into the bowl, till it becomes of a deep colour, then put
that into the tub, or pan of Milk you make Cheese of, (before you put
in the Runnet or Salt) in such quantity as will render the whole of a
pale Orange-colour, which will get deeper, or increase in colour after
the Cheese is made; one good property _Annatto_ partakes of, it neither
affects the Cheese in taste or smell. Cheese is often impregnated with
Sage, by bruising the leaves and mixing the juice with Milk, which
gives it a green colour, and an agreeable taste. Some use Parsley in
the same manner, but that is not so much esteemed for flavour as Sage,
Marigold-flowers are bruised and used the same way; these flowers
are reckoned of a very fattening nature, and good flavour, and
esteemed the most of any, and give the Cheese a colour nearly equal to
_Annatto_. Cochineal is also used by the curious, being of a fine pink
hue, and has a pretty effect, in the hand of an ingenious Dairy-woman,
in making figures of Flowers, Trees, _&c._ in Cheese.

Dairy-women who are fully of opinion, that no better method can be
used, than that which they apply, are not often very readily convinced,
that there are better methods of making Cheese than theirs. A Factor
who is a good judge of Cheese, sees a great variety in the quality of
Cheese, and altho’ most People like good Cheese, yet so easily is the
difference discerned by nice judges, who have frequent opportunities
of remarking it, that they can perceive a real and distinguishing
property, that causes a very different Idea in them, from what they
hear advanced by the makers. Such a dealer is very certain, that in a
large connexion of trade, he will find some very good judges, who know
how to prefer excellence in quality, and are well acquainted with the
perfections required in the article, and perhaps from their situation
in life, are enabled to get a much higher, than a common Market-price,
for a superior Article: Such a Person will have such goods, in what
place soever they can be met with, and knows also that in order to
procure them he must give a superior Price.

A Person who engages to supply such customers, as such there are in
perhaps every country, in a larger or lesser degree, must use his own
judgment, and not depend on the good opinion others may form of their
goods. He will find in a very large survey, amongst Dairys, in the
best country he travels, a very small proportion of excellent Dairys,
or such as will supply those particular customers, and when he meets
with them, is perhaps, obliged to deal them out very sparingly to the
different good customers, that may wish to have some particular nice,
and good Cheese for such of their Friends, who are likewise determined
to have the very best they can meet with. Very good second-rate
Cheese, is much more scarce than inferior, and the best, will still
find customers. Every dealer would be happy to find a large supply of
fine Cheese, every maker of Cheese would be glad to have his Dairy
meet with that preference. Some Dairy-folks will complain that there
is not proper encouragement given for making good Cheese; as Factors
give for all Dairys in a neighbourhood, nearly the same Price, though
some of these Dairys are not so good as others, by some shillings _per_
hundred: But then let these people remember, that ’tis themselves
only that sit in judgment in this case. Bring the makers of two
Dairys together, and you will hear each of them give the preference
to their own. The Factor must clear himself of this charge! For ’tis
of dangerous consequence, for a Factor to complain of any fault in
the Cheese to the maker, or not give it sufficient praise.--Perhaps
he will say to the Person, whose Dairy may appear the neatest, and
have had most care taken of it, and in the Eye of most people, had the
preference, your Cheese is extremely neat and good, is fat and mild,
and will please many of our best customers exceedingly, will even
stand in competition with _Gloucester_ and _Wiltshire_ Cheese, which
is always neat, well-handled, and mostly esteemed by genteel People,
your neighbour’s Cheese is not so mild or beautiful, but has many
good qualities, ’tis full flavoured, stout Cheese, such as is most in
demand, is bought by people who do not so much mind the beauty of it,
as being profitable Cheese to buy, that will spend well, or according
to the common Phrase, will eat Bread well, and though there may be a
few strong Cheeses amongst them, there are many customers wish to have
them so. If you go into a Fair, you will find some people looking for
handsome mild Cheese, but more buyers of stout, good spending Cheese,
of which they must be better judges, what suits their sale, than the
makers.--Certainly there are in most Countries, some few Dairys that
have all the good qualities; beautiful, fat, fine flavoured, _&c._
and these generally find their way to the best market. There is one
best way of doing every thing, and ’tis what in every way of life
is a cause of strife; a maxim I was taught in my youth, was, never
strive to be second best, some one must prevail, and they that do must
strive for it, the best way of doing a thing is as easy, when known, as
the second best. This emulation is what every dealer in Cheese would
wish to discover in the breast, and proceedings, of the Different
Dairy-folks in his walk, that he might be enabled to go to Market,
as one, who could lead and command both the opinion and interest of
the best customers: Such goods as would give that preference to him,
would of course give the command in price to those who supplied him;
for though the Cheese they now make, may at present support their own
good opinion, yet, when they come to find, that they have improved
in so great a degree, as to enable them to see excellence, where
they only saw usefulness, and blooming beauty, where only mediocrity
appeared; Ambition and Interest, their bosom friends, will point out
a new road to them, in which they will travel, not only as swift and
prosperous, as their rival neighbours, but will not leave them in an
easy and composed state, till they have out gone them. In this happy
track I confess I should be glad to meet many of my old friends and
neighbours, in whose service I have laboured many a long day; and
so far as my abilities will support me, should be glad to be their
conductor; but whether in my present pursuit, I may be so happy as to
shew them the right road, is very uncertain. If by opening their Ideas
afresh, shewing them where Improvements may be looked for, and giving
them some convincing circumstances, where such truths appear, they may
be led to look farther to find better, I shall hope they are in a fair
way to prevail. Some few circumstances they perhaps may expect, to
convince, and some fresh out-lines to extend the Ideas I have set on
float. I will give you in a few instances, the way I came first to be
moved in this pursuit.

The first that alarmed my Ideas, concerning the cause of sweet,
unsettled and ill-flavoured Cheese was, I was once going by a house,
I knew was notorious for as bad a Dairy as I ever met with, the
Dairy-woman saw me, and said, won’t you call and look at my Cheese, I
am sure ’tis as good as my neighbour T--s, which you have been buying,
I replied I fear not; come in then and see, she said; as soon as I came
into the Dairy-chamber, I saw, and told her it would not suit me; why
not, she replied, I am sure ’tis every drop New-Milk, and nobody can
take more pains with it, nor work harder at it than I do. On looking
to the farther side of the room, I perceived a Cheese that was very
blooming in appearance, handsome in shape, well-coated, firm, fat, and
much larger than the rest. I said, pray how came that Cheese there--I
should be glad to know the History of it; why truly said she ’tis a
strange one. I replied if you will make such Cheese as that, it would
be worth five shillings, or even ten shillings a hundred weight, more
than the rest; says she, one night when I had rendled my Milk, a person
came running to me, and said, neighbour T-- is groaning and you must
come immediately; I said to a raw wench I had to help me, now be sure
you don’t touch this Cheese till I come back, I will be sure to come
to you when I see how neighbour T-- is; but it happened she was worse
than I expected, and I could not leave her till after midnight. I
said, my Cheese will be spoiled, but the poor Woman shall not be lost
for a Cheese; when I came home I found it not so bad as I expected, put
it into the Vat in a hurry, saying, it may possibly make a Cheese that
will do for ourselves, but I little thought it would ever be a saleable
Cheese;--well now--said I, and is not this Cheese a proper lesson to
you? don’t you thereby plainly see that you have made the rest too
quick--why yes--said she, it might, if I had thought at all--but I
declare, I never once thought about it--Profound stupidity! thought I
to myself, and left her--however, this plainly convinced me that Cheese
in general was made too much in a hurry, and often when I came to a
Dairy where the same complaint prevailed, I told them this story, and
it frequently had the good effect, to produce good Cheese in the lieu
of bad, by giving more time to the Milk in earning.

To corroborate with this story also, my own opinion, that good Cheese
may be made by a skilful Dairy-woman in any place, or on any land;
there now lives in the same farm, where this old woman did, a person
who makes, without exception, as good a Dairy of Cheese, in every
point, as I ever met with in any country; I have had this Dairy, at
a Fair at a distance for many years, and two or three people were
generally at strife to have it, and it commonly happen’d that it was
made a point of by Buyers, that if I would let them have that Dairy,
they would buy their whole quantity of me, so that it generally was the
cause of my selling three or four other Dairys along with it. Next,
to shew that there are many Dairy-women do not make so much Cheese
from the same Milk, or near it, as they might, or ought to do; on the
evening of a very hot day, I went through a Farm-yard, and was much
pleased to see as fine a Dairy of twenty Cows as I had seen for a long
time, on going into the Dairy-chamber, to my great surprize, I found a
poor parcel of very lean, hungry looked, ill shaped, bad tasted, hove,
and Whey-spring Cheese,--I said to the Dairy-woman, certainly this is
not all the Cheese you have made from the fine Dairy of Cattle I saw
in your yard! It really is, said she, except the few that are not come
out of the Dairy. I have been so ill for the last two or three months,
I could not possibly be amongst it, and I find my maids know very
little of the matter. It is a poor parcel, and I am ashamed to see it;
I replied your servant takes a wrong method in making Cheese; I will
engage to tell you how you shall make two Cheeses where you now make
one, or one Cheese as large again; that difference, struck her much;
if you will she said, I will try it, and this very evening--Then, said
I,--as the weather is hot, take three or four quarts of fresh spring
Water, or in such quantity till you find your Milk is what you may
properly call Milk-warm, then, put two or three handfuls of Salt into
it,--after that put your Runnet into it, and let it stand an hour and
half before you stir it, if ’tis two hours it will be better, and you
will be sure to have more Cheese, in that time, the Curd will incline
to sink easily to the bottom of your Tub, then collect and gather your
Curd,--let it stand one quarter of a hour to settle, then Vat it, and
put it into your Press; let it stand in the Press two or three meals,
turning it in the Press once between the first meals, and at each meal
after--she followed my advice precisely, the Milk being at rest before
I left the house. Some time after, I enquired of her how my advice
succeeded; she said quite well, and I am convinced we had not made half
the Cheese we ought to have done. But observed, their Pigs had been
found to thrive in a surprizing manner, and well they might, after
having had more than half the produce of the Dairy.

I once met with a young Dairy-woman at a Fair; who had a lot of
Cheese unsold, after almost every Dairy in the Yard it stood in was
disposed of; she asked me to buy her Cheese, having bought some
adjoining Dairys; I objected, saying I do not like it, she seemed
rather surpriz’d, saying, I am sure ’tis made of as good Milk and as
well took care of as any of my neighbours that you have bought, I told
her the method she took in making the Cheese was wrong, she seemed
quite desirous to improve it if she knew how. I desired her to follow
the method described above, exactly, which she promised to do, but
observed it was so contrary to what she had ever heard of, she should
be surprized if it made good Cheese. I said the Cheese you have here
is very bad, the way to make good Cheese must be contrary to that
in which this was made, for the like reason as when a person is in
a burning fever, cooling medicines are applied to restore him; when
very chill, a warming remedy will have effect--she wish’d to know what
were the faults of her Cheese; I told her it was very loose, sweet,
or ill-tasted; that rather displeased her, and she seemed to mistrust
my knowing any thing of the matter--saying--it is not sweet--how
can you possibly know that never tasted it, I told her Cheese of
that countenance always was sweet. I put my taster into one and gave
it her to taste, she acknowledged it was very rank, but wondered
how I could know it was so--I perceived the Cheese of an unsettled
nature, that I had not a doubt the Milk had been carried in Churns
or Barrels, I said I imagine your Dairy-ground is some distance from
your House, do you milk your Cows in the field or drive them home, she
said sometimes the latter, but generally the former, and brought the
Milk home on Horse-back. I told her how difficult it was to make good
Cheese of Milk carried in that way; she said I find you know where I
live, I replied I don’t know so much as the County you live in, she
seemed quite astonish’d; I saw a husky dry coated Cheese on the top
of one of the heaps, that had dry cracks in it; I said, I suppose you
remember how that Cheese was made; she answered in the affirmative,
when you made that Cheese, I said, you had reserved some Curd from
the meal before, and put into the other Curd, next meal, which having
been rendled too hot would not join together, as I will shew you by
the different Curds in the Cheese, which I did in my taster, the
white looking Curd being the old Curd which caused the cracks, and
the yellow the New-Milk, (and you may always observe a mixture of
that kind where Curd is kept from the last meal, appearing marbled
and cutting chiselly)--She acknowledged that Cheese was made in the
manner I described, seemed very thankful for my advice, and pursued
it very nearly the next Summer, when she produced at the same Fair
the following Year a Dairy of Cheese with very few faults; I pointed
them out to her, told her how to remedy them, as in the rules before
described; she thanked me, and the next Year with great pleasure shewed
me an exceeding good parcel of Cheese.--A near relation of mine, who
kept a Butter Dairy, was desirous of making Cheese, and said to me,
I am entirely ignorant how to proceed, but if you will point out the
right method, I will exactly follow it, I gave her the same direction
as to the former Dairy-woman, she followed it, and I am certain no one
can make nicer, or fatter well tasted Cheese than she did, being one
Day saying how good her Cheese proved, observed she had one Cheese,
then cut, that was jointed and blue-pared, and wish’d to know the cause
of it; I examined it, and found it must be caused by slip-curd; she
said she never altered, or shortened the Time given for the coming of
the Milk after it was rendled; on ruminating the cause, I said, do you
put your bowl in the Tub when the Runnet is in? She replied always; do
you ever find any difference in the Curd under the Bowl from the rest,
on removing the Bowl?--Sometimes I perceive the Curd under the Bowl
of a smooth slippery nature, and when I have tried to get it solid, I
never could, it always slipt through my fingers, and some of it would
swim in the Whey when the other was solid, which I always took care
to break as small as flour, among the other Curd--I said is the Bowl
being there of any use? She did not know that it was; she took it away
and had no jointed Cheese after, in her Dairy; which plainly convinced
me that the Air under the Bowl prevented the Curd from coming in the
same Time as the rest, and that the small quantity of slip-curd under
it, was the sole cause of the joints that appeared, for there was not
an Eye in the Cheese, owing to its being broke so small, which if any
of the slip-curd had been left in bits of any size, would have caused
Eyes larger or smaller in the Cheese, but now it dissolved in the
form, and manner before described, in jointed Cheese; it is a general
practice with Dairy-women to put the Bowl in the Milk when the Runnet
is put in, and leave it in till the Cheese is come; I have frequently
asked the reason for it, and the general answer was, that by taking
the Bowl out, they might know when the Cheese was come; which will be
much better known by putting the Bowl the contrary way, or the hollow
part upwards instead of being downwards, for there is often slip-curd
collects under the Bowl when put downwards and that makes your Cheese
Whey spring, or Eyey, and for that reason the Bowl had much better
not be put in at all, especially in Cheese that is sunk, and not
broke, as then the slip-curd is sure to cause Whey springs.--Another
relation, being pleased with her Sister succeeding so well, followed
exactly the same method, having wrote down every particular, and her
Cheese was remarkably fine and good. These, and such like instances
convince me that good Cheese may be made by rule, or regular method, on
any Land, providing nothing very singular prevents, as from noxious
weeds, plants, &c. or distempered Cattle. It is often observed poor
Land makes the best Cheese; to those who are fond of mild Cheese, it
very often does, the Milk being weaker or thinner, is sooner collected
into Curd, than rich Milk, by which means it is often completely fit
to sink or gather sooner, and has many chances of making good Cheese
by that means, or in the same time allowed, than from better Milk,
which will not become good Curd in the same time that is given for the
weaker Milk; for if the Curd is not solid and good, no art can make
good Cheese of it. But, if rich pasture, good feeding Land, being old
Turf, has proper time given it to make good Curd, and the Cheese is
well taken care of after, I always find the richer Grass makes the best
Cheese and more of it. To confirm my Opinion, that breaking Cheese in
the Curd is a needless and exceeding wasteful method; being lately at a
friend’s house who keeps a few Cows only to make Butter and Cheese for
their own use, and that of a few friends, the Gentlewoman said to me, I
could wish to know the best method of making fine Cheese, (having met
with such at my relations, before mentioned) and desired my directions;
and said their Cheese was apt to be a good while in coming when in the
Tub, their pasture being rich old Turf. I told them to give it full two
hours, recommended putting salt in the Milk as before prescribed, which
was done, and to sink the Curd instead of breaking it; after having a
long knife made from a lath, cut the Curd from top to bottom, crossing
it many times, by which means the Whey separates readily, then get a
sieve and there with you will press down the Curd with great ease.
Having settled the Curd well, and let it stand a quarter of an hour to
drain, having laded all the Whey out, it became quite solid--then the
Dairy-maid cut it in slices and work’d it into the Vat, without ever
breaking the Curd at all; with very little trouble, and in a short time
she made a complete handsome Cheese; full one third part larger than
any they had before produced from the same Cows, and continued so to do
in succeeding days, the Whey being quite green, which they could never
bring it to be, when broke and gathered in the Tub; and broke in the
Vat afterward, which method certainly wastes a great deal of Cheese and
much impoverishes it by squeezing the fat out in breaking.

A friendly correspondent, being a considerable dealer in Cheese,
knowing of my intended publication, is so kind as to favour me with his
sentiments on some particulars; which, as some of them coincide with my
own already described, and one in particular, promises great utility
to very small Dairys, and will be a considerable means to prevent
sour Cheese, by pointing out a method to preserve the Curd without
hazard, with his permission I lay it before my readers. “I have some
years been trying to find out the reason why Cheese frequently looks
of a grey dirty appearance, and which is always attended with a strong
disagreeable taste, and from enquiries and observations I have made,
I am clearly convinced it is owing to the Runnet being kept too long,
and not being sweet when put into the Milk. It is often the case in
small Dairys in order to make the Cheese of a tolerable full size, to
make it but once a day, and in hot Weather it is almost impossible to
prevent one meal being sour, which must inevitably spoil the Cheese.
I beg leave to inform you of a method practised with good success.
A friend of mine who was a Farmer’s Daughter, and had been used to
a Dairy, marrying a person of a different profession, they kept one
Cow to give Milk for the family, which being small she could not use
all the Milk; she then tried to make Cheese of the surplus, and made
tolerable sized Cheeses, perhaps seven or eight pounds each, in the
following manner; when the weather was warm, she put Runnet to the Milk
as oft as she found it necessary, once or twice a day, while it was
sweet; having separated the Curd from the Whey, she put the Curd into a
broad shallow Tub, just covering it with cold water, and shifting the
water two or three times a day as she thought necessary, and thus kept
the different parcels of Curd, till she had enough to fill her Vat, by
which means, she made exceeding good Cheese. Some good Dairy-women, I
think often err in the manner of breaking their Curd; tho’ they make
good Cheese, they might make better and more of it, if they did not
squeeze out so much of the fat in breaking; the Whey that first runs
from the Curd is always the thinnest, and was that thin part first
separated, before the Curd was much broke, it would certainly leave
the Cream in the Cheese, which would but little of it squeeze out in
putting in the Vat, but when it is broke so very small amongst the Whey
the rich parts are squeezed amongst the thin Whey and carried away
with it. I know an instance or two myself, of persons who I firmly
believe made their Cheese of real New-Milk, yet broke their Curd so
much that their Cheese was not so good as I have had two-meal Cheese. I
think the method used in _Norfolk_ and _Suffolk_ to separate the Whey
from the Curd, is much preferable to that used in _Warwickshire_, or
_Leicestershire_; when they think the Milk is sufficiently curdled,
they lay a strainer into a basket (made for the purpose,) which they
put the Curd into and let it stand to drain for a time, before they
break the Curd.” In regard to my friend’s opinion concerning what he
calls grey, dirty looking Cheese, ’tis often caused by foul Runnet, but
I am of opinion it more often happens when Cows have been drenched,
either for the yellows or other complaints; and it will look of that
countenance and get insipid, or ill tasted when much frozen, as I have
more than once had Cheese in my own possession turn of that dark putrid
colour after being much froze, that I knew was not so before it was
affected by frost.

Being lately in company with a Dairy-man at a distance, talking about
Cheese-making, he said he never used a Cheese press, and said that his
Cheese got hard as soon, and kept as well as those that used a Press,
the method he used is, to make the Cheese in a hoop (being chiefly
thickish skim Cheese, tho’ he said he often made New-Milk Cheese in
the same way) that was open at top and bottom, which being filled
with Curd, and well squeezed into it, was then set upon a board that
had holes bored in it, the hoop also being bored and cover’d with a
board which was bored also, putting a moderate weight upon the board
to settle the Cheese; turning it upside down, twice a day till it got
stiff, and it answered very well. When Curd is firm, it will settle and
get hard with very little crushing, it is the slip-Curd that is in it,
that makes it require so much pressing to settle it, this method will
be very useful in very small Dairys that have no Press.

Clover, or other artificial Grass, which generally contains more Air
than common Grass, requires full time in bringing the Cheese; in its
first operation, it should not be exposed to too much heat, immediately
after it is made, as the greater the quantity of Air that remains in
the Cheese, the more effect heat will have upon it, by causing it to
heave, or split when the Air becomes rarified. Cheese made from Clover
is rather more difficult to make, to even the best of Dairy-women, but
I have seen very good sound Dairys of stout, full flavour’d Cheese
made from Clover, especially when a good deal of time is allowed to
bring the Cheese, and care is taken not to let it lye too hot, after
it begins to get dry. It is always hurtful to Cheese to lye too near
tiles in hot weather. Dairys are subject to damage by noxious, or
poisonous plants, roots, or trees: Where Cows are fed in pastures much
addicted to wild-garlick, or cow-garlick, ramsons, or wild chives, I
have often perceived the rank taste of the Herb in the Cheese. Many
people are at a fault to know the cause of bitter Cheese; which I have
often observed is most prevalent from poor, or moderate light Land, and
have frequently taken notice that where Cheese is bitter, their pasture
is much addicted to black plantain, ribbed Grass, or cock plant, may
weed, dandelion, especially the rough leaved sort; centaury--arsmart
or lakeweed, tansey, wormwood, meadow sweet, &c.--I take yarrow to
be an ill favoured Plant for Cheese, where it prevails much in Land,
being of a very faint nature, tho’ Sheep are said to be very fond of
it,--Hemlock--hen-bane--nightshade, cow-bane, cow-weed, water-wort,
kex, drop-wort, yew-tree, box, and most other ever-greens certainly
are noxious and very hurtful.[5] I have often observed in riding
thro’ Dairy-farms, how little attention is paid to pasturage, Farmers
frequently suffering many sorts of known noxious Plants or Weeds to
flourish in them, without any concern to extirpate or cast them out, or
of having the least thought of encouraging, or propogating such as are
salutary or cheering to Cattle; I have often heard the remark made by
Farmers that there is an instinct in Cattle that directs them to avoid
noxious Plants, and even directs nature to apply many as remedies in
various complaints; we often read of wild Beasts, Serpents, _&c._ that
are governed by such instinct.--But it often happens that in very dry
seasons, pastures are so very short that Cattle are obliged to eat any
thing that is green to keep them alive, and ’tis well known they often
do clear up every thing before them, and many sorts of Plants that
they will not touch at other times; I have often observed that in such
seasons, Cattle are very much subject to violent disorders; I have
known many die, without the owners, or cow-leech being at all able to
account for the cause; and frequently taken notice that Cattle dying
so suddenly are much subject to swell greatly, and often in the same
Dairy that many have died apparently from the same cause, and that such
complaints are most prevalent in the Months of _July_ and _August_,
when poisonous Plants are in full vigour; I remember one Person who
had lost several Cows, who was a judicious person in Farming affairs,
observe, that undigested Plants were found in their Stomachs, or Maws
when opened, although they had not eat any vegetable food for two or
three days, which made him suspect they were poisonous, and ’tis very
natural to form such an Idea.

There is no branch in Husbandry seems of more importance, or gives
a larger field for improvement than the conducting and managing of
Dairy-Farms; as a great share of the health, as well as the lives of
the human species, are in a considerable degree dependent, on the
health and good condition of Milch Cows. Milk being a vegetable juice,
or that yields a nourishment partly vegetable and partly animalized,
partaking more or less, of the good or bad qualities of Plants on which
the Cow feeds--Milk, in its produce of Cream, Butter, Cheese and many
of our luxuries, is a constituent part of our daily food, through every
stage of Life, consequently great care ought to be taken, with respect
to the food of Animals, who furnish us with so great, and necessary a
part of our sustenance; I have always thought some knowledge in the use
of Plants, a very agreeable amusement, and it would certainly have been
much more my study, had I thought of ever having such an opportunity of
making it useful. Such as have fallen under my knowledge I have here
endeavoured to describe, in which I acknowledge to have received much
help from a late ingenious publication of DR. WITHERING on _Botany_,
(being the first I ever met with in English after the Linnæan System,)
which I think a work of great merit. As the Dairy-man, or Farmer,
becomes more informed of the nature of noxious Plants, he will
surely think it worth his while to try to get rid of them, by rooting
them out; and as it is well known that Cows are very much subject to
scowring, and flatulent or windy disorders, it may be very well worth
his while to sow or plant in his pastures and hedges, such herbs in
proper quantities as are found to be the best remedies for these and
such other complaints which Cattle are most incident to. Among many
that might be mentioned the following herbs are very salutary, (and if
there is such an instinct in Cattle as some suppose, they will know
how to cull the best,) lovage, agrimony, chervil, carraway, cummin,
mint, bazil, hyssop, rue, angelica, pepper-mint, penny-royal, thyme,
marjoram, _&c._ I should think a very proper time to sow, or plant
them, would be when you set, or plant hedges, or when plashed, or the
banks fresh made up, or in pastures where Ant-hills are dug up and
carried away, to sow them in the places they are dug from; It must
certainly be an improvement of the first kind, to clear a Farm of all
sorts of noxious and poisonous Plants and Weeds, and stocking them
with such as are healthful salutary and medicinal.--Trefoil & white
Clover are esteemed exceeding good Grasses for producing Milk. But the
highest encomium is given to Saintfoin Grass, as being superior to any
other.--An _Essex_ Farmer who is a correspondent in the _Bath_ Society
for promoting Agriculture, thus describes it; “As the roots strike deep
in our chalky soil, this plant is not liable to be so much injured
by drought as other Grasses whose fibres shoot horizontally and lie
near the surface, the quantity of Hay produced is greater, and better
in quality than any other, but there is one advantage attends this
Grass, which renders it superior to any, and that arises from feeding
it with Milch Cows, the prodigious increase of Milk which it makes is
astonishing, being near double that produced by any other food. The
Milk is also better and yields more Cream than any other; I give you
this information from my own observation, confirmed by long experience,
and if Farmers would make trial they would find their account in it far
more than they expect.”

It is a pretty general opinion, that Saintfoin thrives only on
up-lands, that lie near a rock, lime-stone, chalk or strong gravel; the
reason given is, the roots strike so deep in the Earth, that unless it
meets a check it seldom flourishes. That such Land, being rocky, or
very shallow hungry soil that will scarce bear any other sorts of Grass
does produce great crops of Saintfoin, I have many times observed in
different Counties; but as I meet with various Authors who say, that
notwithstanding that advantage there is in it, preferable to any other
Grass, yet it always thrives best in a rich good soil, which makes me
imagine it has seldom had a fair trial, and if the advantage as a Dairy
Grass is so great, it is highly worth the Dairy-man’s notice.

We find many Farmers very industrious to improve their breed of Cattle,
and set much store on blood and fashion. The Dairy-man’s chief concern
should be to have Cows with good Bags, or Udders; that yield a quantity
of Milk; and it is well known, by persons who keep but one or two
Cows, that there is a material difference in the richness of Milk in
Cows, and that when they set up the Milk of different Cows, they find,
one shall yield a much larger quantity of Cream than another; and many
are known not only to yield more Milk, but even much better than the
Cow which gives less; this is an useful remark to a Dairy-man as the
quantity of rich Milk is the support of his undertaking, and must in
the end pay more than the fine form of Cattle, which may be of more
consequence to the feeding Grazier; and great care should be taken that
the Cows are Milked clean, as many good Cows are spoiled by suffering
Milk to remain in the Udder; which will cause the Cow daily to give
less and less, till at length she will become dry before the proper
time, and will be very apt to give but little Milk the next season. It
is observed in Fairs, that the people from _Wiltshire_ and other Dairy
Counties, who buy Cows, always make a large bag in a Milking Cow, their
first object, and those that buy Cattle for feeding pay very little
regard to it, prefering a good carcase; as Dairy-men are generally
the breeders of Calves, it should be their first object, to breed from
Cows, which produce the best and largest quantity of Milk, and supply
their own Dairy with that breed. I have often heard Dairy-men remark,
that Cows are apt to give more Milk on the land they are bred upon,
than others who come from a distant soil. I would always recommend to
every Dairy-man, wherever it is in his power, to convey running streams
into his Dairy-ground,--to encourage his Cows to frequent scowers in
Brooks, or running Streams; Cows certainly like clear Water best, and
it always produces most Milk; and keeping them cool, the Milk is much
easier made into Cheese, or Butter. When Cheese goes from the Press,
let it be kept in as warm a state as you can, till it has had a sweat,
or is got pretty regularly dry, and stiffish: It is warmth that makes
Cheese ripe, improves the colour, and causes Cheese to cut flakey, the
surest sign of excellent quality; which is very clear to those who know
the great difference there is in Cheese that has gone by Sea in the
Summer-time to _London_, or any distant Port on our Coast, having been
thoroughly heated on Ship-board, by the heat of the Season, and such
large quantities being in the same apartment. I dare say any Person who
has eat Cheese in the finest Dairys in _Cheshire_, and also in a Tavern
in _London_, when the same sort of Cheese has undergone the heat of
a Ship, and afterwards been laid in a Wine-cellar to cool gradually,
and make it Mellow, (which is allowed to be the best situation for
finishing Cheese, it not being exposed to harsh Winds, or chilling
Air,) such Person must allow the Warmth it has received, improves the
flavor and richness of the Cheese to a superlative degree. I would
recommend, where it can be avoided, that hard Cheese is not kept in
the same Room with the soft, as a dampness that arises from the new
moist Cheese, is a detriment to the improving state the hard Cheese
is getting into, making it very apt to chill, and get thick-coated,
and often spotted; in some measure there is an analogy with the fine
flavoured Fruit, this being the Season that Cheese may be supposed to
come to its flavor, and the foul damp that falls from the exhalation
of the soft Cheese greatly retards it, and being deprived of a chearing
Warmth, will never become excellent. Cheese never tastes agreeably
till it has had a sweat, such as is always kept in a cold state eats
chill, flat-tasted and insipid; a south aspect, or a Room over a
Kitchen-fire is much best, till Cheese is got tollerably hard and had
a sweat; a cool shady Room, or even a Plaster-floor is best after it
has had a sweat, till such Time as the Weather gets too cool. Cheese
very seldom heaves or gets puffy after it has had a sweat and got cool
again; the fat that melts with heat, closes the pores of Cheese made
open by harsh Air, and keeps it mellow afterwards. The sweat of Cheese
should not be rubbed off, or scraped off, unless it has sweat to a
violent degree, as it keeps the Cheese mellow and always improves the
flavour. To have every excellence it must have every advantage.--In
_Wilts_, _Gloucestershire_, and some part of _Warwickshire_, most
people wash their Cheese, putting it in a little warm Water or Whey
to soften the swarthy-coat occasioned by the Cheese-cloth, or not
being rubbed when it begins to get coated; then they rub it off with a
Brush, and afterward lay it to dry, or sweat before it is laid in the
cooler apartment; many prefer rubbing it with a hair-cloth, beginning
with it when Cheese is fit to handle, and not wash it. If Cheese is
designed for going by Sea, or for speedy consumption, I think washing
is preferable, care being taken not to send it off too soft, as that
exposes it to crack, then the Fly takes it, and Maggots breeding in
it damages your Cheese. When Cheese is designed to be kept long in
the Dairy, if kept well cleaned, I prefer the other method, as the
coat preserves it, keeps it mellow and improves the Flavor. Frost is
very detrimental to Cheese if permitted to get into it, especially,
soft young Cheese; care should be taken to keep the Windows close in
hard frosty Weather; many will cover it with (and even lay it in)
Peas-straw in severe Seasons. I have known all the good qualities of
Cheese annihilated or taken away, by being Frost-bitten when Young;
it is apt to turn black as if made with sooty Milk, and not have the
least taste of Salt, or any relish remain. It is a very common method
to scald Cheese, either in the Curd, or in the Cheese; the former I
quite disapprove, the design being only to settle the Curd which has
not had Time given it to sink solid in the Tub, which if done, will
want no scalding; boiling Water, or boiling Whey poured upon it will
set the Curd in some degree, and fix it hard, but then it always leaves
it Tough and Horny-coated, if it is scalded to any great degree; more
time taken in bringing the Curd, and having the Milk of a proper
warmth, will render this whole proceeding quite needless. People are
only seeking a remedy for a fault which they had no sort of occasion to
have been troubled with. Scalding Cheese after it has been in the Press
is of some advantage to Cheese that is to go by Sea, that, only being
to set the coat and toughen it, is not so much exposed to bruising, and
the heat of the Ship recovers it again to its proper state by removing
that toughness which scalding gave it; but Cheese for Country Trade,
is hurt by scalding, making it Tough and Horny-coated. If Cheese gets
too hard that has been scalded, the best way to recover it, is to lay
it in a heap, four, five, or six Cheeses high, in a cool room, stirring
and removing every Cheese once in two or three Days, till it is got
mellow. In many Counties, as _Lincoln_, _Huntington_, _Bedford_, _&c._
People take very great pains to make bad Cheese, if a good Dairy-woman
happens to come amongst them that sells Cheese for a much greater Price
than they can, yet they will follow their own method; perhaps, some few
of them at least, when they come to see Dairying plainly delineated,
may have some inclination to alter their Plan, unless they prefer bad
Cheese to good.

Many may wish to know what is a proper Size for Cheese Vats for Trade.
For Cheese of the _Gloucester_ make, we reckon that Vats--15 Inches
Wide by 2¼ Inches Deep to make Cheese, Eleven to the Hundred Weight.

  15½ Inches by 2½ to make Tens.
  16  Inches by 2½ to make Nines.
  16½ Inches by 2½ to make Eights.
  16½ Inches by 2¾ to make Sevens, &c.

Since writing the account of the Maw-skin, I have heard of a Plant
called the Runnet-Plant; it is the first Time I ever heard the Name
of it or the least hint concerning it. I am informed the _Jews_ make
all their Cheese with it; their Law not permitting them to mingle Meat
with Milk, which term they apply to making Cheese with Maw-skin, I have
frequently seen _Jew_ Cheese, but never saw any that I thought good
or tollerably so, makes me imagine it is the necessity of principle
only, that promotes its Use, but as I am an entire Stranger to the
process, shall be greatly obliged to any one who will favour me with
any particulars concerning it, with its qualities and manner of Use.[6]

I am favour’d with a Letter from a Friend whose veracity I can depend
on, acquainting me of another species of Runnet-plant, imagining my
former information was not right, and that the Dairy-plant was of a
different kind to that I had described--sending at the same time some
plants, for my inspection--called spear-grass, and also the method
of using it, as practised by a very good Dairy-woman in the County
of _Derby_ for many Years, whose Dairy was in the highest credit in
the neighbourhood, where she lived, hoping the Public might receive
benefit by the publication of it, the receipt is as follows.--Take
Spear-grass, and as much cold water as will cover the Grass, boil it
over a slow Fire for an hour, put to it salt in proportion, of half a
peck to six gallons of Liquor, then cover it up till cold, then strain
it and add three Maw-skins to each gallon, let it stand nine or ten
days, then bottle it, use a table spoonful for a Cheese of fifteen or
sixteen pounds; but more or less may be used at discretion. From this
receipt a very useful remark may be made: I have frequently enquired of
Dairy-women who made their Runnet for keeping, what quantity of Skin
they us’d, and have generally understood it to be about two Skins to
a gallon of Water, but I have always thought that must be too little,
here we find three Skins is recommended, even added to the decoction
of Spear-grass, which must certainly be a powerful help to the Runnet;
’tis observ’d also in the receipt, that a table spoon-full may be used
for a Cheese of fifteen or sixteen pounds, which I imagine must be as
much as twelve or fourteen Cows Milk; if even two or three spoon-fulls
will do for that quantity of Milk it must be of a very powerful
fermenting quality, and leads me to imagine that Runnet in general, is
certainly made too weak; and that if by the above method, or by the
addition of spices as recommended by _Mr. Hazard_, a much stronger
Runnet is made; it must greatly quicken the coagulation and be a means
of bringing the Cheese properly, in shorter time than that in present
use, and might probably be sufficient if the Milk stand an hour, or at
most an hour and half, which would fully reconcile my plan of sinking
Cheese to those who may think the only difficulty attending it, is
requiring too much time.

Spear-grass is a very common plant, grows chiefly on moist land, or
by pit sides, often in lanes, it is an upright stem, inclin’d to a
redish brown, mixt with green, the leaves are spear-shaped growing up
the stalk, a bright yellow flower with five petals, of the crow foot
form, blossoms in _May_ and _June_; this is doubtless a good plant for
improving the Runnet, it being of a hot nature, and having been used
so many Years with good success is a great recommendation--but this
cannot be the plant before described to me, and which I have found
in different Authors, called yellow ladies bed-straw, goose-grass or
Cheese Renning, nor does the Runnet made with it answer to the ends
proposed in making _Jew_ Cheese.

I should imagine the best time to collect the Spear-grass for making
Runnet, must be when it is in full Flower, which may be very apt to
help the colour as well as give firmness to the Cheese. I have not a
doubt but Runnet made with this plant, in the manner above described,
will be a considerable improvement in Cheese-making, and should be glad
to hear of its having a fair trial, it appears to me to be the most
likely thing to correct the mischief caused by Slip-curd.

Having now gone through the design of the work, and laid down such
observations on the principal concerns of Dairying, so far as relates
to Cheese-making, as occur to my remembrance, I take my leave of it,
hoping in general it will be found useful and expedient, and before
I conclude, earnestly recommend it to such Dairy-women who find any
difficulty in their proceedings in the business of Cheese-making, or
wish to improve their make of Cheese, that they will, well weigh every
part of the subject, and make trial of the whole process, as stated in
its different parts. As I am well convinced, by repeated trials that
if the plan I have laid down is observed with care, it will not fail
to make good Cheese. And though it may be objected by many, the length
of time of the Milk standing for Curd, yet so complete will the state
of the Curd be, that you will often times more than save that time in
crushing, as it will be finished in half the time, that bad Curd will
take, and by the extra weight of Cheese, that time will give, will
at length repay all your trouble; I well know, many Dairy-women are
partial to some particular method, or nostrum of their own, or their
mothers, or neighbour such a one who was a famous Dairy-woman, as being
preferable to all others, in which they often fail of success, in
some respect by having omitted to observe the exact minutia of their
practice. As a very small omission, in time, or method, sometimes
leads them into a labyrinth, which they very rarely ever get out of,
and causes them more vexation and perplexity, than if they had never
known any thing about it. Or, if their’s be a good method and very
practicable, perhaps it is possible there may be a better, or easier
means of proceeding, that will render their Plan quite needless.

I hope that those who wish to improve from my instructions, will give
it a fair Trial, if any at all; they need not say they are left in the
Dark in any part of it, as every particular is made plain and most of
them repeated, as precept upon precept, and line upon line. Let them
be particular however in the main concerns, such as the proper warmth
of the Milk, the goodness, and use of the Maw-skin, to give it Time
enough in the Tub, or Cheese-pan, to keep the Cheese warm when young,
and cool afterwards; then I think they will scarce fail of making good
Cheese. If they mean to excel, and make fine Cheese--and why not?--Then
I refer them to the more minute Observations of the Work, and I wish
and hope, that they will find their Pains well bestowed, and afford
them both Comfort and Profit. I doubt not but methods used in different
Counties vary a good deal. Some perhaps may be pointed out that are
preferable to some of mine, and if any Person will be kind enough to
point them out to me, or shew me where any thing has been omitted, or
Error committed, if another Edition should be called for, I shall very
willingly communicate them to the Public.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

ON BUTTER.


Butter is an Article in very general use, and numerous are the people
employed in making it; and is in great esteem; from observations I have
made, it admits of very little variation in the method of preparing,
which methods are so generally known, require very little commentary
upon them; I profess not to understand them, and therefore shall say
very little about it. What little I have remarked in conversing with
Dairy-women, is, that care should be taken to set up your Milk when
it is of a proper warmth--Milk-warm is the best, regulated the same
as for rendling Cheese, applying a little cold Water if too hot, and
either warm Water or Milk if too cold; many think Water best, saying,
it will throw up Cream sooner; to take care the Utensils it is set up
in, are exceeding clean--the utility of which I think is clearly made
appear by observing the effect of a contrary remark in making Whey
Butter.--Indolence, finds out many ways which Industry never thought
of.--Some Butter-Women, whose care is, more, to make a large quantity,
than regard the quality, or flavour of Butter, will tell you, that sour
Whey, yields more Cream than sweet, and it immediately turns sour, by
putting it into the Pans you poured the last meal’s Whey from, without
washing them. But in making good Butter, great care must be taken to
prevent the Cream’s being sour, or your Butter will be ill flavoured,
and will keep good but a very little time--That lead Pans are preferred
to every thing, in throwing up, or rising the Cream from Milk. Not to
let the Milk stand too long before it is skimmed, especially in hot
weather.--If it must stand two meals, it had better be skimmed twice,
than to let it stand the whole time for one skimming, as the Milk often
turns sour before the expiration of two meals; and if the last meal
should change, you may then be enabled to keep all the sweet Cream by
itself.--The less time the Cream stands before it is churned, the
finer flavoured and sweeter your Butter will be.

Nothing is more commendable in a Dairy-maid than cleanliness,
nor will any thing cause them to be more esteemed; every one who
perceives extream neatness in a Dairy, cannot help wishing to purchase
either Butter or Cheese from so clean and neat a place, and would
gladly give a higher price, rather than be exposed to the chance of
sluttish nastiness, too common in many Dairys. It is remarked by many
Travellers, that in the _Isle_ of _Wight_, nothing is more pleasing
than to see the exceeding neatness of their Dairys; it very rarely goes
unnoticed, and to a delicate taste, scarce any thing affords greater
pleasure.

As Butter is become a very considerable Article of Trade, it is highly
proper every means should be rendered to make it as complete and
perfect as possible; it is very different in regard to purchasers of
large quantities of Butter, who must take lots as they happen, and in
which very often a considerable part of them are very inferior to what
they ought to be, and to buyers of fresh Butter in Markets; who can see
and taste it before they buy, which is a caution to the makers to have
it well made, knowing it will be inspected before sold, those who put
it into Casks or Firkins, for distant sale, are apt not to be so very
careful about it. I have heard frequent enquiry by Cheese-mongers, or
dealers in Butter, what is the cause of Salt Butter being so subject to
get rank, strong tasted, or rancid, or what some people call a fishy
taste, which is a very great detriment to dealers in Butter, and the
cause of the complaint much wants to be known; being well acquainted
that the complaint is very frequent, has often led me to enquire into
the cause when an opportunity has offered, being lately conversing
with a person on the subject, he said it was very common in _Suffolk_
& _Yorkshire_, to heat the Milk before it was set up for Cream, which
is done in order to increase the quantity of Cream. It is well known
that every fat substance that is heated, will in course of time turn
rancid, or reezy, that when Butter, of the last year, or a year old, is
in the Cask through the Summer, the heat will affect it, and so far
as the heat gets into it, will reeze or become of a tallowy nature,
fat Bacon will reeze so far as the fat melts; and the heating of Milk
must certainly alter the nature of it, and in course of time will cause
the Butter to turn rancid, and ill tasted. I have heard it observed by
a person who is used to buy fresh Butter that was made of heated, or
clouted Cream, (which is a method much used in some parts of the South
of England) that it is very apt to get strong and will keep good but
a very little time. So that from all remarks I have been capable of
making, it seems clear to me that the badness or foulness of Butter, is
chiefly owing to the Milk being heated, and is a hint worth the enquiry
of the public, especially large dealers in Butter, in order that some
method may be taken to prevent an evil that is become so very prevalent.

A friend who has been much used to Dairying, lately communicated to me
a method to give Winter made Butter, which is often made from Fodder,
either Hay or Straw, the countenance and relish of Summer Butter,
made in the prime of the Season; which is done by taking the juice of
carrots, being bruised, or pounded to a pulp & then press’d or squeezed
out, putting it into the Cream before Churn’d. And also, a method to
take off the disagreeable taste of Butter made from Turnips, viz. let
your Cream be warmed and poured into a Tub or Pail of cold Water, then
skim the Cream off the Water, which will rise to the top, the same
as in Milk, and by this means leave the foul taste behind it in the
Water, this last method will much improve Whey Butter, taking off the
disagreeable sourness that often attends it, and by adding the juice of
carrots as above, will help its colour and give it an agreeable relish,
and by this means you may salt Whey Butter, down in pots, that will
do very well for paste in Winter. In a very sensible, and practical
Essay printed in the third Volume of the _Bath_ Society’s Letters and
Papers on Agriculture, &c. by _Mr. Hazard_, some useful remarks are
made on Dairying, and also on the Dairy-house, which he says, should
always be kept in the neatest order, and so situated, that the Windows
or Lattices never front the South, South-east or South-west; Lattices
are also prefer’d to Windows, as they admit a more free circulation
of Air, than glazed lights possible can do, and to prevent the cold
Air in Winter, a sliding frame coverd with oil’d cap paper, pasted on
packthread strained thereon, will admit the light and keep out the Sun
and Wind. It is hardly possible in the Summer to keep a Dairy-house too
cool, on which account none should be situated far from a good spring
or current of Water: They should be neatly paved with red brick or
smooth hard stone, and laid with a proper descent, so that no Water may
lodge, this pavement should be well wash’d in summer every day; and all
the Utensils belonging to the Dairy should be kept perfectly clean, nor
should the Churns even be suffer’d to be scalded in the Dairy as the
steam that arises from hot Water will injure the Milk, nor do I approve
of Cheese being kept therein, or Rennet for making Cheese, or having a
Cheese Press fixed in a Dairy, as the Whey and Curd will diffuse their
acidity throughout the Room. He is of opinion the proper receptacle for
Milk are Earthen-pans or Wooden-vats, but not lined with lead, as that
mineral certainly contains a poisonous quality and may in some degree
affect the Milk, but if people still persist in using them, he advises
that they never forget to scald them, scrub them well with salt and
Water and to dry them thoroughly before they deposit the Milk therein,
indeed all Utensils should be cleaned in like manner before they are
used, and if after this, they in the least degree smell sour, they
must undergo a second scrubbing before they are fit for use, he also
recommends Pans with a large-surface, or wide at top; during the Summer
Months he recommends skimming the Milk very early in the Morning before
the Dairy becomes warm, and not in the Evening till after Sun set;
churning he recommends to be done in a Morning before the Sun appears,
taking care to fix the churn where there is a free draft of Air, if a
pump churn be used it may be plunged a foot deep into a tub of cold
water to remain there the whole time of churning, which will very much
harden the Butter; a strong rancid flavour will be given to Butter, if
the churn be so near the fire as to heat the wood, in the Winter season.

After Butter is churned, it should be washed in many different waters
till it is perfectly cleansed from the Butter-milk, but he observes a
warm hand will soften it and make it appear greasey: The Cheese-mongers
use two pieces of Wood (or Spaddles) for their Butter, and if those who
have a very hot hand were to have such, they might work the Butter, so
as to make it more saleable.

Butter will require, and endure, more working in Winter than in Summer,
but he remarks he never knew any person, whose hand was warm by nature
make good Butter.

Those who use a pump churn must endeavour to keep a regular stroke, nor
should they admit any person to assist them, except they keep nearly
the same stroke, for if they churn more slowly, the Butter will in
Winter, go back, as it is called, and if the stroke be more quick and
violent, in the Summer it will cause a fermentation, by which means
the Butter will imbibe a very disagreeable flavor. Where many Cows are
kept, a barrel churn is preferable, but it requires to be kept very
clean or the bad effects will be discover’d in the Butter, to be fixt
in a warm place in Winter, and where there is a free Air in the Summer.

As many of my acquaintance wished to have an enlarged account, of the
Art of making Butter: I was very glad to have the opportunity, of
collecting these annex’d, which are most of them worthy observation,
and as I have before mention’d the method some people use in making
Butter from what is generally call’d clouted cream; I shall now give
you the process as laid down by _Mr. Hazard_.

“In the first place, they deposit their Milk in Earthen-pans in their
Dairy-house, and (after they have stood twelve Hours in the Summer, and
double that space in the Winter) they remove them to stoves made for
that purpose, which stoves are filled with hot embers; on these they
remain till bubbles rise, and the Cream changes its colour, it is then
deem’d heated enough, and this they call scalded Cream, it is afterward
removed steadily to the Dairy, where it remains twelve Hours more, and
is then skimmed from the Milk and put into a Tub or Churn, if it be put
into a Tub, it is beat well with the hand, and thus they obtain Butter,
but a cleanlier way is to make use of a Churn; some scald it over the
fire, but then the smoke is apt to affect it, and in either case if the
pans touch the fire, they will crack or fly, and the Milk and Cream be
wasted.”

Dairy-women are oft times much perplex’d when churning, by having the
Butter very long in coming, the cause of which I have never heard
properly explain’d, some think the Cream was too cold, sometimes it
is thought too hot, many observe that an irregular motion in churning
prevents its coming properly, as before remark’d by _Mr. Hazard_, but
there seems to be a more powerful chemical cause; from observing
common causes, I should imagine there is an alcaline salt in old Milk,
which sometimes overcomes the oily part of the Cream when agitated by
the motion of churning, so as to prevent the Butter, separating in
the churn, the cure for which seems to be, to reduce the alcali to a
neuteral state, which effect, Acids are known to have, or at least
alcalies on Acids, as is common; when Beer gets sour or much Acid, to
recover it by putting a little salt of Tartar, salt of Worm-wood or any
other powerful alcali into it, immediately recovers it to its usual
state, and neither the acid nor alcali are perceived in the Beer, being
made neuteral by their union.

I am much pleas’d to find my opinion seconded, and put in practice by
an anonimous Author in the _Bath_ Papers, who was very earnest to find
out a remedy that would hasten the operation in churning, and from a
very pertinent idea that led him to weigh the matter, seems to have
found out the real cause of the obstruction, met with in the work,
and also a remedy, which many Dairy-women will be very happy to be
inform’d of, as the Author justly observes, it will shorten the Labour
of many a weary Arm, and prevent much vexation to a multitude of good
House-wives.

He observes, that when the operation of churning had been going forward
for half a Day, he caused a little distilled Vinegar to be poured into
the churn, and the Butter was produced within an Hour afterwards.

He also remarks upon the subject, that if the supposition be admitted,
that the Cream of old Milk (and such is Milk for the most part in
Winter,) contains much stronger alcaline salt, or at least more of it
than new Milk does, then the effect of the Vinegar is readily accounted
for on the known principles of Chymistry, it is an acknowledged
property of alcalies to unite with oil into a saponaceous (or soapy)
mass, and to render them intimately miscible with water. But it is
likewise well known to chemists that there is a nearer affinity (as
they Term it) a much stronger elective attraction between acids and
alcalies than between alcalies and oils; consequently the acids being
mixed with the Cream, immediately attaches to itself the alcaline salt,
which is the bond of union, as we may call it, that holds together
the oleaginous (oily) and aqueous (watery) particles, and leaves them
easily separable from each other. It may perhaps be objected to this
mode of practice that the acid mixing with the Cream, would render the
Butter unpalatable; but this on experience I do not find to be the
case, and indeed I should not my self have expected it, as the Butter
is usually well washed in two or three changes of clean Water, by which
the whole of the acid is carried off, or if some few particles remain,
they are so few as not to be perceiv’d by the taste & perhaps have
rather a desirable effect than otherwise, by acting as an antiseptic,
(preventing putrefaction) and preventing the Butter from becoming
rancid so soon as it otherwise would do; he adds, my experiments
have not as yet ascertained the exact quantity of the acid which is
necessary to produce the proper effect, nor the precise time of its
being mix’d with the Cream. But I apprehend a table spoonful or two to
a gallon of Cream will be sufficient; nor would I recommend it to be
applied, till the Cream has undergone some considerable agitation.

After having so much interested myself in endeavouring the improvement
of Dairying, I am unwilling to take my final leave of it, without
adding my sincere wish, that the increase of Dairy-Farms, may meet with
every encouragement from the Public, as it appears to me, a matter of
the first consequence to this Nation. The price of Butter & Cheese
having so much increased within a few years, makes it quite necessary
to give every encouragement to the increase of Dairying, as it plainly
appears, there is not near a sufficiency of those Articles for general
use, and every endeavour to increase the quantity must be for the
Public good, if we only consider how large a quantity of Butter is
imported into England every Year, and yet the price still continues
to advance; it is astonishing to think that there is annually great
quantities of Grain of different kinds imported into the Kingdom, while
such a prodigious quantity of Land lies waste in commons or that are
of very little benefit to the community in general; also, how many
thousand People (both young and old) are now unemploy’d, who might
find sufficient support, if encouragement was given for improving of
Land for different purposes, and growth of numerous materials which
now takes our Money abroad, such as Rhubarb, Liquorish, Madder, Woad,
Teasels, Flax, Hemp, &c. As a plan for improvement in Husbandry, seems
much to prevail at present in this Kingdom, as if in emulation, to keep
pace with the Arts, and ingenuity discoverable in many of our capital
Manufactures in the present Age, so superior to those of former times
and which are still improving in a very great degree, so from the
various Societies connected in different parts of this Kingdom, for the
benefit and improvement of Agriculture, great knowledge is acquired
and made Public for the general advantage of community, and if the
same spirit would animate Gentlemen in common, who doubtless are the
people that will receive the greatest advantage from the inclosure of
commons, it would be a noble example, and discover a true patriotic
spirit, if they would undertake the improvement of the Lands, which
may be inclos’d, and who have it more in their power, especially where
small Farms are necessary, (than the peasant to whom they may be let,
and who, when they are made useful can perhaps best employ them for
the Public good,) they would then be well repaid for their trouble,
be setting a noble example to posterity, making a fortune for their
Family, at the same time they are enabling numbers to gain a livelihood
by their means, and what is there in Life that would more endear them
to their Country, than such a benevolent disposition. I have not a
doubt but the proportion of large Farms throughout this Kingdom is
too great for the small ones, and if the inclosure of commons should
take place, there would be a proper opportunity to equalize them, by
making a larger number of small Farms of different degrees, from 20
Acres to 50, from 50 to 100 and from 100 to 150, for tho’ it is from
large Farms, that our principal supply of provisions must arise, yet
it certainly is from the small Farms that our Markets are chiefly
supply’d with the common necessaries, such as Butter, Eggs, Fowls,
Pigs, Pigeons, Fruit and many other common necessaries of human Life,
and the more small and moderate siz’d Farms there are, the better will
all Markets be supplied. I have not a doubt but if Gentlemen would
undertake the management of new enclosures, great improvement might
be made from the Horse-hove, and drill Husbandry so much commended by
many of the _Bath_ Society correspondents, as well as those of _Arthur
Young, Esq._; and from the advantage proposed thereby of improving
Land by those methods, with very little manure, if Gentlemen would
thoroughly adopt that method upon a large scale of practice, doubtless
it would become universal, and from the great quantity of Seed proposed
to be saved by this method, and a larger crop produced, must in the
end be a very great advantage to this Nation; many may object, that
the inclosed commons, will very little of it become Dairy-Land for a
considerable time; yet it will certainly come in, in time, and the
more Arable Land is brought into use, certainly the greater proportion
of Grass Land may be spared for the Dairy. One great impediment to
inclosures is the great expence of Acts of Parliament, this might be
remedied in a great measure, if Government would grant one general
Act for inclosing commons throughout the Kingdom, under the direction
of County Committees, which might be appointed for that purpose at a
moderate expence, and fully answer the design, but as a hint at the
improvement, is the only thing I can advance toward it, yet, like the
Widows mite, I would not with hold it, as it may encourage more capable
Persons to take it in hand.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]




_SOME ACCOUNT_, OF NOXIOUS, BITTER, and POISONOUS, PLANTS.


Ribwort, ribbed grass, black plantain or cock plant; this plant may
not properly be ranged among bitter plants, it not being bitter to
any great degree, but I have often thought upon examination, that the
bitterness in some Cheese more resembles the taste of this plant and
dandelion than any other whatsoever, and in barren soils they are apt
to prevail more than any other.

Arsmart, or lakeweed, is a bitter plant, well known; ’tis said to
produce an essential oil, or oil extracted by distillation, which I
should imagine more likely to affect the bitterness of Milk than colder
plants, it is apt to grow very strong after being mowed, and I have
not observed that Cows refuse or leave it untouched more than other
plants in common. I think this plant much more likely to cause the
bitterness of Butter in _Autumn_ than the falling leaves to which it is
generally referred, though many people are of opinion that Cows eating
ash leaves in _Autumn_, causes the bitterness in Butter.

Meadow sweet--is a bitterish plant that Cows are fond of, especially
the sort that grows on up-lands, commonly called drop-wort, the
meadow sweet of low-meadows is a sort they do not readily feed on where
there is plenty of Grass.

Centaury, lesser centaury or gentian, is an extream bitter plant, bears
a pale red blossom with many florets, or pips, on an upright stem in
old Pastures, blows from _June_ to _August_, I should imagine it must
be hurtful in Dairy-ground being a very penetrating bitter.

Hemlock, with stems and branches, spotted with brown, or black,
and white flower; the whole plant is poisonous, it grows in hedges,
orchards, or among rubbish, and is very common.

Henbane, with blossoms purple & brown--indented leaves, embracing or
cleaving to the stem, grows on road sides or among rubbish, the seeds,
roots, and leaves taken internally are all poisonous.

Nightshade, grows in moist brakes and hedges, with bluish blossoms,
sometimes inclined to flesh colour, sometimes white.

Deadly nightshade--dwale--or belladonna is the worst specie, growing in
woods, hedges, among lime-stone or rubbish; the stem is herbaceous or
of a herby nature, the leaves, spear, or halbert shaped, the flowers
of a bluish purple with a bright yellow thrum, chives, or pointal,
appearing like the snuff of an expiring Candle, the berries grow in
very handsome bunches, first green, then a fine red, next a beautiful
black, are very tempting to Children having cost many their Lives,
causing stupor, delirium, and convulsions, and are certain Death if not
prevented by timely and plentiful vomiting; this plant cannot be too
well known being so very common in most Countries, and so tempting,
both to Children and Cattle.

Cow-bane, water-virosa, or water-hemlock--with rundles or flower
branches opposite the leaves, leaf-stalks with blunt borders, with
about seven pair of little leaves, which are variously divided and
indented, petals, or leaf of the flower, yellowish pale green, grows
in shallow waters, is a perennial plant, or that continues from year
to year, blows in _July_; this is one of the rankest of our vegetable
poisons; numerous instances are recorded of its Fatality to the human
species; an account of it may be seen and an engraving in Martin’s
Philosophical Transactions, Vol. 10. Early in the spring when it grows
in the water, Cows often eat it and are killed by it, but as the Summer
advances and its smell becomes stronger, they carefully avoid it;
though a certain fatal poison to Cows, Goats devour it greedily and
with impunity, Horses and Sheep eat it with safety.

Cow-weed, or wild Cecily, grows in hedges, blows in _May_, or _June_,
with white flowers, roots like a Parsnip, and is very poisonous.

Water-wort, Water-hemlock, or Water-skeleton, is esteem’d a fatal
poison to Horses, occasioning them to become paralytick, which is owing
to an insect called _Curcutia Paraplecticus_, which generally inhabits
within the stem; the usual antidote is pig’s dung, the branches of the
leaves stradling--stem very thick, hollow, scored, petals or flowers
white, grows in rivers, ditches and pools, blossoms in _June_; in the
Winter the roots and stem dissected by the influence of the weather,
afford a curious skeleton, or network.

Kex, or water-parsnip, with white flowers in _July_ or _August_, grows
in rivers and fens, is very noxious to Cattle; also the lesser Kex
called upright water-parsnip, in rivers and ditches, is very common;
blossoms in _July_ and _August_, leaves halbert shaped, rundles or
flower-branch opposite the leaves.

Drop-wort, or dead tongue, grows on the banks of rivers, bears a white
flower in _June_, the petals or leaves of the flower sharp--bent
inwards, tips purple or brown--the whole of this plant is poisonous,
the stem is a yellowish red, the leaves smooth, streaked, jagged at
the edges, the root is the rankest and most virulent of all vegetable
poisons.

Mithridate--or penny-cress, grows in corn fields with oblong leaves,
toothed, smooth, white blossoms; the whole plant has something of a
garlick flavour, the seeds have the acrimony or sharpness of mustard;
Cows are rather fond of it, and I should think their Milk is often
affected by it.

Penny-wort, or white-rot, grows in marshy springy ground, with a pale
red flower, blows in _May_; many Farmers suppose it occasions the rot
in Sheep, but I should expect that complaint proceeds from a very
different cause; though, if flowks that are supposed to be the certain
cause of the Rot, or the spawn of them, are taken in with the food
of Sheep, as some imagine, it is possible the Ova, or Eggs of this
Insect may be deposited in this plant, which to know, may be worth the
Farmer’s enquiry.


_Some Account of the_ RUNNET-PLANT.

Yellow Verum--Goose-grass; the Leaves growing by eights, or eight
leaves round the stem, strap-shaped--furrowed--the flowering branches
short, blossoms yellow.

English Names, are yellow ladies bed-straw or Cheese Renning, or
petty muguet; it grows in dry ground, on road sides, very common, is
perennial, blows in _July_ or _August_. The flowers will coagulate
boiling Milk, and some _Cheshire_ Cheese is said to be made with them;
according to an experiment from _Borrchius_ they yield an Acid by
distillation. The _French_ prescribe them in hysterick and epileptick
cases, boiled in Allum-water they tinge wool yellow, the roots dye a
very fine red, not inferior to Madder and are used for this purpose in
the _Island_ of _Jura_. See _Pennant’s Tour_, 1772, Page 214. Sheep and
Goats eat it, Horses and Swine refuse it, Cows are not fond of it. If
the roots will answer the same purpose as Madder it highly merits the
observation of _Calico Printers_ and others, who use large quantities
of that Article, as it is the most common weed, and what in the month
of _July_, there is more of, than any other weed, and if the flowers
will dye yellow, and make Cheese, it must be a very valuable Plant and
be a great help to the Poor to collect it, as it grows on all road
sides, old pastures and hedges in great abundance.

I have omitted giving the Latin names of Plants, not having sufficient
knowledge in that Language; but such of my learned readers who with for
that addition, may refer either to _Dr. Withering’s_, or other books on
_Botany_, to _Chambers_, _Croker_, or other Dictionaries.


_FINIS._




[Illustration]




INDEX.


  A.

        Page.

  Annatto, 68

  Arsmart, 95, 135

  Alcaline, 127


  B.

  Bulged Cheese, 58

  Blister’d Ditto, 35

  Blue-pared Ditto, 52, 85

  Brine drippings, 43

  Bull Cheese, 45

  Breaking-curd, 48, 49, 86

  Bitter Cheese, 95

  Breeders of Cows, 101

  Butter, 116

  Brick-bat Cheese, 63


  C.

  Curd, 14, 90

  Cow described, 17

  Curdly Cheese, 59

  Cream Cheese, 64

  Colouring Cheese, 66, 71

  Cheese from poor Land, 88

  ---- from Clover, 94

  ---- from any Land, 79

  Cheese-Powder, 56

  Cheese Press, 98

  Cheese Vats, 108

  Centaury, 136

  Cow-Bane, 138

  Cow-Weed, 139

  Chill Cheese, 31, 65

  Cochineal, 72

  Correspondence, 90, 109

  Cheese Chamber, 104


  D.

  Dry Cracks, 12, 59, 84

  Dairy-women, 11, 15, 72

  Dairying, 16

  Dairy-Ground, 26

  Drop-Wort, 140

  Dairy-House, 122


  E.

  Eyes in Cheese, 11, 32


  F.

  Fermentation, 33

  Fixt Air, 33, 34, 54, 94

  Foul Air, 55, 93

  Flavour, 104, 105

  Frost, 64, 106

  Flakey Cheese, 51, 66, 103


  G.

  General quantity of Cheese, 21, 24

  Green Whey, 52


  H.

  Hove Cheese, 34, 54, 105

  Husky Coated Cheese, 12

  Harsh Air, 55

  Hemlock, 136

  Henbane, 137

  Honey-comb Cheese, 33


  J.

  Jointed Cheese, 53, 85


  K.

  Kex, 139


  L.

  Loose Cheese, 33, 35


  M.

  Milk, 17, 18, 26, 98, 102

  ---- carried in Churns, 26, 84

  Milk-warm, 28

  Maw-Skin, 36, 41, 43

  ---- way to make them, 42

  Marigold Cheese, 71

  Meadow Sweet, 138

  Mithridate, 140


  N.

  Noxious Plants, 12, 95, 98

  Night Shade, 137

  Nitre, 56


  P.

  Parsley Cheese, 67

  Poisonous Plants, 95, 97

  Pasturage, 13, 96

  Penny-Cress, 140

  Penny Wort, 140


  Q.

  Quantity of Cheese from the same Milk, 8, 80, 92

  Quantity of Cheese made, 22, 81


  R.

  Rank Cheese, 12, 54, 55, 90

  Rotten Cheese, 54

  Rendling Milk, 27, 33, 42, 81

  Running Streams, 22, 103

  Runnet-Plant, 109, 110

  Rib Wort, 135

  Runnet to make, 43, 52, 110


  S.

  Sweet Cheese, 51, 77

  Spongy Cheese, 54

  Split Cheese, 57

  Salting in Milk, 28, 30, 58

  Salting in Curd, 57

  Spear-Grass, 111

  Slip-Curd, 31, 35, 50, 61, 65

  Sunk Cheese, 47, 89

  Sunk coated Cheese, 59

  Skimmed Cheese, 60, 61, 65

  Sage Cheese, 71

  Salutary Plants, 99

  Saintfoin Grass, 100

  Scalding Cheese, 107

  Slip-coat Cheese, 62, 65


  T.

  Time in Earning, 14, 31, 45, 47, 61

  Tears, 32

  Two-meal Cheese, 60

  Turnip Butter, 121


  W.

  Whey Springs, 11, 32

  Warmth of Milk, 28, 29

  Warming Milk, 30, 31

  Warmth, 61, 103, 104

  Washing Cheese, 105

  White Whey, 52

  Water-wort, 139




ERRATA.


  Page 127 line 2d for Alclaine, read Alcaline.
  ---- 127 line 9th for Alcalics, read Alcalies.




FOOTNOTES:

[1] By the Term Milk-warm, is not here to be understood, the Warmth
that it has on coming from the Cow, as that varies according to the
Heat of the Body of the Cow, at the Time of Milking, but a Warmth, a
few degrees removed from Coolness; a degree of Warmth, in general well
understood.

[2] Your Cheese will afterwards want a less quantity of Salt, than if
none had been put in the Milk; enough to settle it, and make it firm in
the Press, will be sufficient.

[3] This term, Tears, plainly indicates, that it has been usually
understood in this light, being the Tears of the Eye.

[4] Synonimous Terms.

[5] A description of noxious Plants, will be found at the end of the
Book.

[6] The Plant is described amongst others at the end of this Book.




AGRICULTURAL BOOKS

_PRINTED FOR J. HARDING_,

36, ST. JAMES’S-STREET, LONDON.


_This Day is published, in One Volume Royal Quarto, Price 2l. 2s._

_Boards_,

THE RURAL ARCHITECT;

CONSISTING OF VARIOUS

DESIGNS FOR COUNTRY BUILDINGS;

ACCOMPANIED WITH

GROUND-PLANS, ESTIMATES, AND DESCRIPTIONS.

By JOSEPH GANDY, Architect, A.R.A.

Author of “Designs for Cottages,” &c.


PRINCIPAL CONTENTS.

    Cottages of the most simple form and economical
    construction--House of Business, or Office, as suggested by
    Mr. MARSHALL.--Dairies--A mill--Group of thirteen Cottages,
    designed for the neighbourhood of a Manufactory--Gardener’s
    Cottage--Bath--Several double Cottages--Cottages for three,
    four, and five Families--Ornamental Cottages--Plan of a
    Manufactory and Work-shops--Groups of Cottages, designed upon
    a principle of exciting emulation and rewarding meritorious
    exertion--Habitation for an Overseer of Labourers--Arable,
    Dairy, and Grazing Farms--An Inn--Villas, and small Country
    Dwellings--Entrance-gates--Single and double Lodges, &c. &c.
    &c.--A Rural Institute, or National Establishment, for the
    advancement of Agriculture, on Mr. MARSHALL’S plan.


_In the Press_,

  1. An AGRICULTURAL EXCURSION in IRELAND, with an Account of Two
    Years successful Farming in that Country. By RICHARD PARKINSON,
    Author of the “Experienced Farmer,” and “Farmer’s Tour in
    America.”

  2. A TREATISE on WOOL, comprising a particular Account of its
    essential Qualities and Defects, and pointing out the Objects
    to be attended to by the Grower, with a view to the Improvement
    of the British Fleece. By JOHN LUCCOCK, Woolstapler.

  3. A CATALOGUE of BOOKS on AGRICULTURE and RURAL ECONOMY;
    including some Authors on POLITICAL ECONOMY, and the ARTS, more
    immediately relating to RURAL AFFAIRS.

    Printed by B. M^cMillan, Bow-Street, Covent-Garden.




_Agricultural Books lately published for_ J. HARDING, _London_.

  1. ALDERSON’s ESSAY on the IMPROVEMENT OF POOR SOILS. 8vo. 2s.

  2. SIR JOSEPH BANKS’s SHORT ACCOUNT of the DISEASE in CORN,
    called, by Farmers, the BLIGHT, the MILDEW, and the RUST; with
    a Plate. Price 2s.

  3. BARTLEY (Secretary to the Bath Society) on the Conversion of
    PASTURE LAND into TILLAGE--on the MANUFACTURE of POTATOES into
    STARCH--and on the utility of applying POTATOES as FOOD for
    SHEEP. 1s. 6d.

  4. BARTLEY’s LETTERS on Extending the GROWTH of FINE CLOTHING
    WOOL, by INTERBREEDING with SPANISH RAMS and BRITISH EWES. 2s.

  5. BARBER’s FARM-BUILDINGS, or RURAL ECONOMY; containing a
    minute Description of the Mode of Building in Pisé. 4to. 6
    Plates. 10s. 6d.

  6. CULLEY’s OBSERVATIONS on LIVE STOCK, with Directions for
    choosing and improving the best Breeds of Domestic Animals,
    with Plates. 8vo. New Edition. Price 6s.

  7. The EARL of DUNDONALD’s TREATISE; shewing the intimate
    Connexion that subsists between Agriculture and Chemistry:
    addressed to the Cultivators of the Soil. 4to. 10s. 6d.

  8. GARRARD’s PLATES, descriptive of the Improved Breeds of
    British Cattle, folio.

  9. HARRISON on the ROT in SHEEP, and other Animals. 8vo. 2s.

  10. MARSHALL’S RURAL ECONOMY of the WEST of ENGLAND. A new and
    enlarged Edition, 8vo. 2 vols. 15s.

  11. PARKINSON’s EXPERIENCED FARMER, embracing the whole SYSTEM
    of AGRICULTURE, BREEDING, &c. 2 vols. 1l. 1s.

  12. PARKINSON’s TOUR in AMERICA, in 1798, 1799, and 1800,
    giving a particular Account of the American System of
    Husbandry, &c. &c. 2 vols. 8vo. 15s.

  13. A PRACTICAL and EXPERIMENTAL INQUIRY into the NATURE and
    PROPERTIES of the DIFFERENT KINDS of MANURES. 2s.

  14. STICKNEY’s OBSERVATIONS respecting the GRUB. 8vo. 2s.

  15. The GAME BOOK; enabling the Sportsman to keep an Account
    of Game, when and where killed, and other Particulars, in the
    manner of a Journal. 7s. 1l. 1s. or 2l. 2s.




_Lately published by_ J. HARDING, _in Royal Quarto, with 43 Plates,
price 2l. 2s._

DESIGNS

FOR COTTAGES, COTTAGE FARMS,

_AND OTHER RURAL BUILDINGS_;

INCLUDING ENTRANCE-GATES AND LODGES.

By JOSEPH GANDY, Architect, A.R.A.

This Volume will prove useful to Architects and Gentlemen who build on
their Estates, as it contains a great variety of COUNTRY BUILDINGS,
designed in a style of peculiar beauty, and possessing every advantage
of interior accommodation and economical arrangement. Each Plate is
accompanied with a Ground Plan, Estimate, and Letter-press Descriptions.


CONTENTS.

  Plate 1. A Cottage of one room, for a Labourer, Gate-keeper,
    &c. 2. Another. 3. A Cottage, with conveniences for keeping
    Pigs, &c. 4. Ditto of two rooms, intended for a Park. 5.
    A double Cottage. 6. A Cottage for a Labourer who keeps a
    Cow, &c. 7. Another. 8. Ditto, of two rooms. 9. Ditto, with
    a bed-room above stairs. 10. An ornamental Cottage for a
    Gentleman’s Grounds. 11. Cottage, with bed-rooms above. 12.
    Cottage, with Cow-house, &c. under one roof. 13. Ornamental
    Cottage for a Park. 14. A Cottage-dwelling of two rooms. 15.
    Picturesque Cottage for a Shepherd. 16. Cottage and Bridge. 17.
    Country Residence, with bed-rooms above. 18. Plan for two or
    four Cottages on the banks of a river, and sketch for a Bridge.
    19. Picturesque Farm-dwelling. 20. A small Country Residence.
    21. A Cottager’s Dwelling. 22. A Green-house and Conservatory,
    with residence for the Gardener. 23. A Farrier’s Shop, with
    Stables and Habitation annexed. 24. A Picturesque Cottage of
    three Rooms. 25. A Cottage of three rooms. 26. Habitation
    near a Market-town. 27. A Picturesque Building designed for a
    Public house. 28. Residence for a Market-town. 29. A double
    Cottage, with conveniences for Farming. 30. Picturesque double
    Cottage. 31. A small Farm. 32. A Picturesque Farm-dwelling. 33.
    A Grazing Farm. 34. Gentleman’s Farming Residence. 35. Circular
    group of eight Cottages. 36. Plan for a Village. 37. A Country
    Residence or Hunting Box. 38. A double Lodge, and arched
    entrance to a Park. 39. Circular single Lodge and Gate. 40.
    Single Lodge and Covered-way. 41. A double Lodge, consisting of
    thatched Cones. 42. A Lodge with Octagon Piers and Ornaments.
    43. A Lodge and Arched Gateway.




_Lately published, for_ J. HARDING, _St. James’s Street, London_.

  1. PICTURESQUE EXCURSIONS in DEVONSHIRE. By T. H. WILLIAMS,
    Plymouth. Illustrated with 27 Views, drawn and etched by the
    Author. In royal 8vo. Price 1l. 8s. boards.

    The object of this Work is to give slight Sketches of the
    most striking Scenery in the County of Devon, accompanied
    with a Description of the most remarkable Places, and their
    Inhabitants. In this plan he has certainly succeeded. Many
    of the Sketches are most beautifully executed, and the Work
    must prove a valuable present to the Lovers of Painting
    and fine Scenery, and to those who may reside in or visit
    Devonshire.--_Literary Journal, October, 1804._

  2. DRUNKEN BARNABY’s FOUR JOURNEYS to the NORTH of ENGLAND, in
    Latin and English Metre. A new Edition, with 7 Plates. Price
    7s. boards; or, large paper, 12s.

    This is a republication of a curious little Work, originally
    printed in the 16th century. The Author, whoever he was, shews
    himself acquainted with the History, Antiquities, and Customs
    of every place he visits, and exhibits so much acuteness
    of remark, and keenness of satire, that he is evidently a
    Drunkard, merely in masquerade.

  3. A DICTIONARY of PAINTERS, from the Revival of the Art to the
    present period. By the Rev. M. PILKINGTON, A. M. A new Edition,
    with considerable Alterations and Additions, by HENRY FUSELI,
    R. A. 4to. Price 1l. 16s.; or, large paper, 2l. 12s. 6d.

  4. THE POEMS of OSSIAN; a new and beautiful Edition,
    embellished with twelve Engravings by FITTLER, from Paintings
    by SINGLETON, 3 vols. foolscap 8vo. Price 1l. 1s. boards; or,
    on large paper, 1l. 16s.

  5. THE DANCE of DEATH; represented in 30 Plates, painted by
    HOLBEIN, and engraved by HOLLAR, in 1 vol. foolscap 8vo. Price
    10s. 6d.--large 8vo. 15s.--or in 4to. 1l. 1s. boards.

    In the early ages of Christianity, it was the practice to
    represent the fallacy of worldly pleasures, and the transitory
    nature of all our pursuits, by exhibiting upon the walls of
    the churches, and in other situations, several figures carried
    away by Skeletons or _Deaths_, in the midst of their amusements
    and occupations. Of this kind is the Dance of Death, painted
    by HOLBEIN, and engraved by HOLLAR, in the sixteenth century.
    The Plates in this very curious and interesting Publication,
    thirty in number, are from the _original Coppers etched by_
    HOLLAR, and some of the subjects are very beautiful.--_Literary
    Journal, June, 1804._

  6. ELEMENTS of SCIENCE and ART; being a familiar Introduction
    to NATURAL PHILOSOPHY and CHEMISTRY: together with their
    Application to a variety of elegant and useful Arts. By JOHN
    IMISON. A new Edition, considerably enlarged and improved. In
    2 large vols. 8vo.; with an Index, and 32 Engravings by LOWRY.
    Price 1l. 5s. boards.

    The first edition of this Work was reviewed by us in our
    72d vol.; but it is now so greatly enlarged, that we have
    reviewed it as a new production; and we think its merits are
    considerable. There is very little in SCIENCE and ART, which
    the Author does not touch upon; much, therefore, evidently
    cannot be said upon each, but what is given is stated properly
    and judiciously. Its multifarious information must render this
    compilation useful and entertaining.--_Monthly Rev. Sept. 1804._

    Printed by B. M^cMillan, Bow-Street, Covent-Garden.




Transcriber’s Notes

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations
in hyphenation and accents have been standardised but all other
spelling and punctuation remains unchanged.

The Errata noted on page 144 of the original text have been corrected
in place.

Italics are represented thus _italic_, spaced text is represented thus
~s p a c e d~, superscripts are represented thus y^n.



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