A Happy Little Worker.
Title : When mother lets us make paper box furniture
A book which shows children just how to make most attractive toy furniture out of materials which cost practically nothing--toys which give as much pleasure as those from expensive toy shops
Author : G. Ellingwood Rich
Release date : May 20, 2024 [eBook #73658]
Language : English
Original publication : New York: Moffat, Yard and Company
Credits : Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
A Happy Little Worker.
WHEN MOTHER LETS US
MAKE PAPER BOX
FURNITURE
A BOOK WHICH SHOWS CHILDREN JUST HOW TO
MAKE MOST ATTRACTIVE TOY FURNITURE OUT OF
MATERIALS WHICH COST PRACTICALLY NOTHING—TOYS
WHICH GIVE AS MUCH PLEASURE AS
THOSE FROM EXPENSIVE TOY SHOPS.
By
G. ELLINGWOOD RICH
Teacher of Art and Manual Training, Brooklyn Training
School for Teachers
ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR
NEW YORK
MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY
1914
Copyright, 1914, by
MOFFAT, YARD & COMPANY
New York
All Rights Reserved
TO
MY FATHER AND MOTHER
THE BEST PLAYFELLOWS I EVER HAD
TO WHOSE ORIGINALITY AND INGENUITY
I OWE MY FIRST CONSTRUCTIVE IMPULSES
| PAGE | |
| PARLOR FURNITURE | |
| Divan | 34 |
| Book Shelves | 52 |
| Writing Desk | 56 |
| Morris Chair | 60 |
| Library Table | 64 |
| Fireplace | 74 |
| Piano | 78 |
| Parlor Chair | 88 |
| Tabouret and Palm | 96 |
| Screen | 98 |
| Piano Bench | 108 |
| BEDROOM FURNITURE | |
| Bed | 30 |
| Dresser | 46 |
| Crib | 80 |
| Chiffonier | 82 |
| Chair | 88 |
| Screen | 98 |
| Cradle | 102 |
| DINING ROOM FURNITURE | |
| Table | 38 |
| Arm Chair | 42 |
| Fireplace | 74 |
| Chair | 88 [10] |
| High Chair | 92 |
| Tabouret and Palm | 96 |
| KITCHEN FURNITURE | |
| Table | 38 |
| Stove | 68 |
| Kitchen Cabinet | 84 |
| Chair | 88 |
| Wash Tub and Bench | 100 |
| HALL FURNITURE | |
| Hall Rack | 90 |
| Umbrella Stand | 106 |
| Clock | 110 |
| PAGE | |
| A Happy Little Worker | Frontispiece |
| Necessary Tools | 17 |
| Bed | 29 |
| Details of Bed | 31 |
| Divan | 33 |
| Details of Divan | 35 |
| Dining Table | 37 |
| Details of Dining Table | 39 |
| Arm Chair | 41 |
| Details of Arm Chair | 43 |
| Dresser | 45 |
| Details of Dresser | 47 |
| Big Brother | 49 |
| Book Case | 51 |
| Details of Book Case | 53 |
| Writing Desk | 55 |
| Details of Writing Desk | 57 |
| Morris Chair | 59 |
| Details of Morris Chair | 61 |
| Library Table | 63 |
| Details of Library Table | 65 |
| Stove | 67 |
| Details of Stove | 69 |
| Fun on a Rainy Day | 71 |
| Fireplace | 73 [12] |
| Details of Fireplace | 75 |
| Piano | 77 |
| Details of Piano | 79 |
| Crib | 81 |
| Chiffonier | 83 |
| Kitchen Cabinet | 85 |
| Getting Supper | 87 |
| Parlor Chair | 89 |
| Hall Rack | 91 |
| High Chair | 93 |
| When Baby is Hungry | 95 |
| Tabouret and Palm | 97 |
| Screen | 99 |
| Wash Tub and Bench | 101 |
| Cradle | 103 |
| Rock-a-By-Baby | 105 |
| Umbrella Stand | 107 |
| Piano Bench | 109 |
| Clock | 111 |
You are interested in very little, middle-sized or big girls or boys, each child according to his years craving a medium for self expression and opportunity to create.
To each according to his interests and developing powers the suggestions in this little book are offered.
It is the author’s hope that the industry, perseverance and ingenuity needed to work out the suggestions may help in some small way to lay the foundation upon which big after things may be builded.
You can make the furniture easily if your big sister or brother will read the directions to you. You will have great fun looking at the pictures, listening to the rhymes and playing with the furniture.
You, also, will enjoy the pictures and rhymes. Of course you will take great pleasure playing with your doll furniture, but, best of all, you can make every bit of it yourself . Just think—you can make it just the size and just the color you wish it; and the rhymes will suggest many delightful little “extras” to make your doll home attractive just as mother makes hers.
Even though you may not wish to play with the furniture yourself you will thoroughly enjoy making and giving it to some dear little folks of your acquaintance. You will also be getting and giving a great deal of pleasure by helping other little friends make their own furniture.
You will enjoy changing the designs or making other pieces of furniture from your own original ideas. I suggest that you design and make a china closet, sideboard, combination desk and bookcase, four posted bed, wash stand with towel rack, music cabinet, business desk for “father,” rocking chair, circular top table, lamp or shirt-waist box. I’m sure you will think of many more.
You might make toy furniture for the children’s ward in a hospital.
You might make them for some little friend who is quarantined.
You might make them for some little “shut-in.”
You might teach some little “shut-in” how to make them, being sure to keep him supplied with boxes.
You might organize a toy-making club and make them as gifts for poor children.
Your Sunday school class might make them to be sold on a “Toy Table” at your church fair.
You might show them to your teacher at school. She might wish to form a club so that many children may have the pleasure of making them.
You might make them for Christmas or birthday presents for your little friends.
NECESSARY TOOLS.
Boxes of all sorts, sizes and kinds are to be had by simply asking for them. Every store throws away dozens of them every day. They seldom keep any because they haven’t room for them. If you explain to a clerk in a store what you are doing with the boxes, I am sure that he will save them for you. You must be sure to go for them at the time he tells you because they will be in his way. You will find many fine, strong boxes at drygoods, stationery, drug and candy stores.
You must first decide about what size you wish your set of furniture to be and then make a collection of boxes of suitable sizes.
If you wish to make a tiny set to fit into a little play house to be used for small china dolls or paper dolls, then collect small peppermint, spool, jewelry, powder or pill boxes.
If you wish to make larger furniture to be used in a large play house or on the floor, for medium-sized dolls, make a collection of large candy, stocking, collar and corset boxes.
If you wish to make quite large furniture to be used on the floor, for good-sized dolls, collect still larger corset, envelope, shoe and wholesale candy boxes.
Try as far as possible to keep all the pieces of furniture planned for one room in good proportion to one another.
Try also to keep all the parts of each object in good proportion.
To bend a stiff piece of cardboard so that the edge will be nice and straight, it should be “scored.” Lay a ruler along the line where it is to be bent and make a light scratch with the knife. This is called “scoring.” The cardboard should then be bent with the “scoring” on the outside .
To cut a box or cover into two pieces, draw around the sides and bottom, making it “square” by using a carpenter’s square, a draughtsman’s triangle or the corner of another box or cover. Use scissors to cut down the edges of the box; if the scissors will not cut quite to the bottom, finish with the knife. “Score” across the bottom and bend it. By bending back and forth, the two pieces will come apart.
To cut a piece out , as when shaping a leg like those of the dresser, use scissors to make two cuts in from the edge; use the knife to “score” across between the cuts, and bend back and forth until the piece comes out.
To cut a piece out to make slats like those in the headboard of the bed, use a ruler to draw the shape of the “hole”; stick the point of the knife through the cardboard at the corner of the “hole,” and, with a sawing motion , carefully follow the lines. To prevent the cardboard from tearing, put your hand underneath to support it, but be very careful to keep your fingers away from the knife.
To fasten the parts of the furniture together use brass fasteners instead of glue. Fasteners cost about ten cents for a box containing one hundred. Glue is not satisfactory because it will not securely hold the heavy cardboard. These toys are to be played with by children and must be strong and securely fastened together.
Hold two parts together and stick the point of the knife through both pieces. Push the prongs of the fasteners through the slit and separate them on the under side; then flatten them in opposite directions.
The fasteners can be put in and bent to fasten and, at the same time, suggest knobs, hooks and piano pedals. The directions and pictures will show how.
It is possible to fasten parts together by punching two holes instead of one and using string. The string can be pulled through with a darning needle and must then be tightly knotted and cut off. This is strong enough but slower and more difficult.
The little pieces of furniture are very cunning whether they are painted or not, but painting them adds greatly to their attractiveness.
When you have finished one piece you may be so anxious to see how it will look when painted that you will be tempted to paint it immediately. It will be wiser and more workmanlike to plan and make all the furniture for one room before you paint any of it.
Before you begin to paint, it is a good idea to examine the corners of the furniture; if any of them are split or weak, strengthen them with adhesive tape of some sort (passe-partout tape comes in convenient and inexpensive rolls). The paint will cover up the tape.
Since boxes usually have printed labels which may show on the furniture, it is best to use a thick paint. Enamel in small ten cent cans may be bought in a variety of colors suitable for the furniture, black, white, mahogany, antique oak, light oak and rosewood. If dull paints or stains are used, put on a coat of shellac to make it shine like varnish. White shellac can be bought in bottles for about twenty cents a pint.
One brush will do for all colors because with care it can be kept clean and soft. Clean shellac brushes with alcohol; clean paint brushes with [24] turpentine. The turpentine will take paint off of fingers or remove any little spatters which may accidentally have gone on to other things.
Choose a place to work—kitchen table, bench in woodshed, sewing table in nursery, workshop, barn, back porch, under a tree in the orchard or back yard.
Spread papers or oil cloth to protect mother’s furniture and carpets from paint.
Choose a place to put your furniture while it is drying, where no one is liable to put other things which might be damaged by the paint.
Use a screw driver to pry off the cover of the paint can; scissors or knife will break if used for this purpose.
Use a small stick like a meat skewer or old pen-holder to stir your paint from the bottom. It will need to be stirred thoroughly each time it is used.
Paint all the underneath and lower parts first, while you are still able to hold it in your hands; then set it down and hold an upper corner while you paint all the rest; then let go and paint that corner.
Put the cover on the can when you have finished. If the paint has thickened on the edge of [25] the can it should be scraped off, because the paint will dry up if the cover is not tightly closed.
Thoroughly clean your brush.
Put your painting materials in some place where mother lets you keep such things.
Pick up and destroy all the soiled papers.
Bed.
Use a shallow box and its cover.
For a large bed use a stocking box.
For a smaller bed use a spool or caramel box.
For a very small bed use a jewelry box.
1. Cut the cover into two parts, making one part longer than the other. The longer part is the headboard, the shorter part is the footboard.
2. Fit the headboard and footboard on the ends of the box and hold them with both hands. Slide the box up or down until it looks like a bed.
3. Lay the footboard down, but hold the headboard and box together, until you fasten them.
4. Fit the footboard on again to match the headboard, and fasten it.
5. Cut the bottom of headboard and footboard to look like legs. Also cut the slats in the headboard and the footboard.
6. Paint brown or white.
Details of Bed.
Divan.
Use a box with a cover which entirely overlaps it, or two boxes exactly alike without their covers. They should be fairly deep, long and narrow, like an ordinary candy box.
1. Cut away one long side, leaving the other long side for the back, and the short ends for arms.
2. Set this on top of the cover and fasten through the seat.
3. Cut away pieces to shape the legs.
4. Cut slats in the back and arms.
5. Paint to match the rest of the furniture in the living-room. Use antique oak, rosewood or mahogany.
Details of Divan.
Dining Room Table.
Use a deep box and the cover of another larger box. The cover must be about the same shape, but enough larger to project over the box like the top of a table.
A correspondence card box may be used. Quite deep and strong boxes for this purpose may be got from a drug store or dry goods store.
1. Place the box bottom up.
2. Place the cover on top and put fasteners through it into the box. A piece of cardboard may be used, if you haven’t a cover of the right size.
3. Cut the legs as shown in the picture.
4. Paint to match the other furniture.
Details of Dining Table.
Arm Chair.
For a large chair, use two shoe boxes without their covers.
For a small chair, use a chocolate peppermint box and its cover.
For a medium sized chair, use a corset box without its cover.
The following directions are for the corset box:
1. From one end cut a piece as high as you wish the seat. From the other end cut a piece at least twice as high, for the back.
2. Fit the seat into the back and fasten together.
3. Cut away the unnecessary “end” at the top.
4. Cut out the pieces to form the arms, the legs and back.
5. Paint to match the other furniture.
If you cut a corset box just in the middle, you can make two chairs. Use the two ends for the two seats, and the other two pieces for the two backs.
Details of Arm Chair.
Dresser.
Use a box, with a cover which overlaps the box only a little.
For a large dresser use a shoe box.
For a medium sized dresser use a candy box, having the right kind of cover, or a corset box of the wide and shallow kind.
For a very small dresser use a jewelry box.
1. Cut the cover the height you wish the back to be.
2. Fit the box into the cover; hold with both hands, and slide the box up or down until it looks like a dresser.
3. Mark where you wish the bottom of the box to be cut off. Cut it off and fasten the two parts together.
4. Cut a hole for the “mirror” and fasten an extra piece of cardboard behind it. Paste silver paper on the cardboard, or fasten a real piece of looking glass between it and the back.
5. Cut pieces of cardboard for the “drawers,” and fasten them so that the fasteners look like knobs.
6. Paint to match the other furniture. Mark key holes.
Details of Dresser.
Big Brother.
Book Case.
Use a shallow box with a cover which entirely overlaps it, like an ordinary candy box or a note paper box. For a very small bookcase, use a box such as druggists use for powders.
1. Study the picture carefully. Notice how one end of the cover is cut off and then fastened on the top to form the little railing.
2. All the shelves are made from the box . If the case is tall enough for three shelves, use both ends and a piece of the middle.
3. If the case is not tall enough, then make two shelves, using only the ends.
When fitting the shelves, push the box in as far as it will go; then mark where it is to be cut off.
4. For books, use the corrugated cardboard in which bottles are packed. Cut strips of this, making some parts high and some parts low, to look like a row of books. By painting them different colors, and making little marks to suggest the titles, they can be made to look very much like books.
The strips must be cut long enough to be bent back and fastened to the sides.
Details of Book Case.
Writing Desk.
Use the kind of box suggested for the bookcase.
1. Cut the cover the right height for the desk.
2. Fit in the box , and slide it up or down until it seems right in proportions, as in making the dresser.
3. Mark where it is to be cut off. Cut and fasten the parts together.
4. Study the picture; then cut the top and slanting sides.
5. Shape the legs. Fasten the “drawer” with “knobs.”
6. Fit and fasten in the extra cardboard so that it projects and forms the writing shelf.
7. Use the other end of the box for the inside shelves. Cut these narrow and fit them carefully. Real pigeon holes can be made by cutting up penny-in-the-slot caramel boxes, and gluing them into place.
8. Paint to match furniture. Glue a piece of blotter on the writing shelf.
Details of Writing Desk.
Morris Chair.
Use two boxes of the same size. They should be fairly deep and nearly square. The covers should overlap the boxes only a little.
For large chair use collar boxes.
For very small chair, use jewelry or square pill boxes.
1. Place one box bottom up.
2. Place both covers against the sides; hold with both hands and slide up or down until the proportions seem right for arms.
3. Mark where they are to be cut off. Cut and fasten the three parts together.
4. Study the picture to see how the arms are made to look more natural by cutting away parts of the edges of the covers.
5. Shape the legs and cut the slats.
6. Use extra cardboard for the back. “Score” and bend the lower end, so fasteners may be put through it into the seat.
7. Make holes at the proper places. Use a meat skewer or a heavy wire hairpin as the rod against which the back rests.
8. Paint to match furniture. Make cushions.
Details of Morris Chair.
Library Table.
Use two shallow boxes and their covers. Spool boxes might be used, but caramel boxes would be better.
1. Use both covers for the legs. Cut them the height the table is to be.
2. Turn one box bottom up; fit the two pieces of the covers on the ends and fasten.
3. Turn the other box bottom up and fit it in from the bottom. Slide it up or down until the proportions look right for the shelf. Fasten the shelf at both ends to the legs.
4. Fasten on the projecting top. This may be the cover of a slightly larger box or of extra cardboard.
5. Shape the legs. You might cut vertical slats in the ends between the shelf and top.
6. Paint to match furniture.
Details of Library Table.
Stove.
Use two boxes of same size, with covers which overlap only a little, like collar boxes, candy boxes with this kind of cover, baby-shoe boxes or jewelry boxes.
1. Place one box right side up on top of its cover. Place between the two an extra cardboard, large enough to project from one end and side. Fasten through the bottom of box and cardboard, into the cover.
2. Shape the projecting cardboard into front and side hearths. Shape the legs.
3. Cut six holes in the other cover . Use silver half dollar or spool for pattern. Fasten on the top.
4. Fasten on the oven “doors,” etc. Study the picture to see how the fasteners have been made to look like hinges, by cutting two little slits for the prongs, and bending one out flat and then down. The “knobs” are put through one slit as in the dresser.
5. The pipe is made of a roll of stiff paper or a pasteboard mailing tube. Push through one hole; if it fits, it will not need to be fastened.
6. Paint it with black enamel.
Details of Stove.
Fun on a Rainy Day.
Fireplace
Use two chocolate peppermint boxes of the same size, or one peppermint box and its cover; also a long and narrow cover of some other box.
1. Stand the boxes on their ends. If too tall for the mantel, cut them off; but be sure to cut off the tops , as the bottom ends are needed to fasten to the hearth.
2. Use extra cover for shelf and fasten the ends to the boxes.
3. Use extra cardboard for hearth and back. “Score” and bend it.
4. Set the mantel on the hearth and close against the back. Let the back slant out while you fasten through bottoms of mantel into the hearth.
5. Push the back up again and reach under the shelf, to put fasteners through back edge into the back.
6. Make “mirror” of silver paper or real looking-glass, using extra cardboard as in the dresser.
7. Use small box and its cover for the grate. Cut slats and legs. Fasten the back of grate to back of fireplace.
8. Paint grate with black enamel and the “woodwork” like your furniture, or with white enamel. Paint the hearth and fireplace like brick or tiles.
Details of Fireplace.
Piano.
Use a box with a cover which entirely overlaps, like a writing paper box.
1. Stand the cover on one end; cut it the right height for the piano.
2. Study the picture to see just what parts of the sides and top are to be cut away.
3. Cut the box the same height as you cut the cover.
4. Carefully study the picture. Notice how the box is made to fit into the piano, by cutting down the edges of box until they are as deep as “A” in the picture. Fasten the parts together.
5. Use the other end of the box for the key-board; cut and fit this very carefully; then fasten with two fasteners at each end.
6. Draw the black and white keys on a strip of white paper or cardboard, and fasten it on.
7. Cut, “score,” bend and fasten the music rack as shown in the picture.
8. The picture will show you how one prong of each fastener is pushed through from the back , and bent to look like a pedal. The other prong turns up a little over the edge to make it firm.
9. Paint with rosewood, mahogany or black enamel.
Details of Piano.
Use box and cover, or two boxes, as suggested for the divan.
1. Fasten one on top of the other through their bottoms, as in the divan.
2. Cut the legs.
3. Cut the slats as shown in the picture.
4. Paint with white enamel or gold to look like brass.
Crib.
Use the same sort of box and cover as suggested for the dresser.
1. Cut the cover the right height for the back.
2. Slide the box up or down as in making the dresser. Make the part containing the “drawers” higher, and the “mirror” shorter than in the dresser.
3. Make the “drawers” and “mirror” as in the dresser; also shape the legs.
4. Paint to match the rest of your bedroom furniture.
Chiffonier.
Use a box with a cover entirely overlapping it, like a candy or writing paper box.
1. Cut the cover the right height for the back.
2. Study carefully the proportions of the cabinet shown in the picture; then cut pieces from the sides and top as in the piano.
3. Slide the box up to the point where the sides are cut out. Mark, cut off the bottom and fasten the parts together.
4. Use the other end of the box for the shelves, as in the bookcase. Fasten them in.
5. Cut pieces of cardboard for the “drawer” and “doors”; then fasten them on with “knobs” and “hinges.” Shape the legs.
6. Paint some color suitable for a kitchen. Possibly someone might show you how to “grain” it.
Kitchen Cabinet.
Getting Supper.
Use the kind of box suggested for the arm chair.
1. Make this exactly as you made the arm chair, until you are ready to shape the legs and back.
2. Study the picture and you will see that there are no arms, and no slats between the legs. Notice how the back is cut.
3. Paint mahogany, oak or rosewood like the rest of your parlor furniture. You might paint one with white enamel for your bedroom, or with gold as a fancy parlor chair.
Chair.
Use the kind of box suggested for the dresser and chiffonier.
1. Cut the cover the right height for the back.
2. Slide the box up or down until the proportions are right.
3. Cut off the bottom and fasten the parts together.
4. Shape the legs. Fasten on the “drawer” with “knobs.” Cut the slats and hole for “mirror.”
5. Fasten on an extra cardboard, putting either a silver paper “mirror” or a real looking-glass between it and the back. The fasteners should be pushed through from the back . Look carefully to see how the little prongs are bent and curved to form little hooks.
Hall Rack.
Use a corset box.
1. Cut seat and back from opposite ends of box as in arm chair. Make the back about 8½ inches and the seat about 5 inches.
2. Fasten parts together near the seat and at the bottom (the other fasteners on sides hold the foot rest which will be put in later .)
3. Shape the arms, back and legs. Be sure to have one slat on the sides where the foot rest is to be (about 1½ inches below the seat).
4. From the two ends of the cover , cut two pieces about 4 inches long for the tray and foot rest. The edges are too deep for the proportions of the chair, so must be carefully cut down about one-half.
5. Cut away all but about 1 inch of bottom of foot rest. The projecting pieces must be pushed between the other two parts and fastened as shown in picture.
6. The tray is the same shape, but about ½ inch more of its bottom must be left. When the projecting ends are pivoted to the sides by two fasteners or a wire hairpin, that extra half-inch of bottom will rest on the front corners of the arms, and keep the tray level. The tray can be moved up and down as on a real high chair.
High Chair.
When Baby Is Hungry.
Use the kind of box in which bottles of shoe dressing are packed—tall, with nearly square top and a cover which entirely overlaps it.
1. Cut a piece of the cover the right height; shape the legs. If you haven’t a box of this kind, a peppermint box and its cover can be used, by cutting off an end of each and fastening them together, as shown in the picture.
2. Fasten on an extra piece of cardboard, which will project for the top.
3. Use an empty twist spool for the “jardiniere.” Cut a strip of green paper the height you wish your plant to be; roll this firmly so it will just fit, and stand up in the hole of the spool.
4. With sharp point of scissors cut down the roll in several places. Spread out and shape the “leaves.”
5. Fasten in some small artificial flowers, or stick in toothpicks or straws, with bits of bright paper tied or glued on like flowers.
Tabouret and Palm.
Use three pieces of cardboard cut from bottoms or covers of boxes.
1. Hinge the pieces together at their edges with thread, wire or ribbon.
2. Cut out the slats at the top.
3. Cut out the three large holes and gather in silk or muslin; or paste pretty paper or figured cloth flat on the cardboard; or paint flowers or landscape right on the cardboard.
4. Paint the “wooden” parts gold or white.
Screen.
For the bench use a long, narrow and shallow box and its cover. For a small bench use a spool box; for a larger one, a stocking box.
1. Use the box for the legs, and the cover for the top.
For the tub use a pasteboard ribbon “bolt.” For a larger tub, use one of the fancy miniature hat boxes used for silk flowers.
1. Cut out the top of the ribbon “bolt.”
2. Paint black “hoops” and little vertical lines to show the strips of wood of which a tub is made.
3. Make handles out of hairpins. Use thread to bind a tiny strip of paper around the wire for the “wooden” part of the handle.
For the washboard use part of the cover of a jewelry, corset or shoe box, according to the size of the tub.
1. Cut the cover the right length; then cut the “legs.”
2. If the board is large enough, fasten on a piece of corrugated cardboard; if it is small, draw lines to suggest that part.
3. From a scrap of soap, whittle out a little “bar.”
Wash Tub and Bench.
Use any box of the right proportions—jewelry, candy or shoe box.
1. Fold a piece of paper and cut a pattern of the end with the rocker. Cut several until one fits your box and will rock .
2. Lay pattern on cardboard; then draw and cut two ends.
3. Fasten these as shown in the picture. If the cradle is a large one, use very heavy cardboard or fasten several thicknesses together, so that it will be strong enough to be played with.
4. Paint with white enamel.
Cradle.
Rock-a-By-Baby.
Use the kind of box suggested for the tabouret.
1. Cut off the box the right height. If peppermint boxes are used, fasten the pieces of box and cover together, as shown in the picture.
2. Cut the slats.
3. Paint with gold to look like brass, or with a color to represent wood or porcelain.
Umbrella Stand.
You might find a small box just the right size and shape. Turn it bottom up and cut the legs.
You might have to cut ends from the box and cover of a candy box, and fasten them together as shown in the picture.
Piano Bench.
Use the kind of box described for the tabouret, or box and cover of a peppermint box cut the right height and fastened together.
1. Use a silver dollar or end of large spool as pattern for the face. Mark the face directly on the box, or make it on white paper and glue it on.
2. Cut the legs and openings.
3. Make the pendulum of cardboard and long enough to extend up into the top.
4. Cut hands of pasteboard or bits of tin.
5. Push a long pin or wire hairpin through the hands, middle of face, top of pendulum and back of the clock. Bend the end of the wire down. You can then move the hands and swing the pendulum.
6. You might put a fastener into the lower end of the pendulum and double the prongs out of sight. This looks attractive and also makes the pendulum heavier so that it swings better.
